Live from Paris (currently)
Dec 26th, 2012, 10:53 AM
#63
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,585
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Flygirl, great report! My notes re this trip were very sparse (could have been champagne/wine related). I did note the scary Philou bathroom as I might have been the only one in our party desperate enough to use it .....out the back door of the restaurant (unheated) with a sliding barn-like door with hook and eye closure.
You may have omitted or forgotten a little shopping (the reason we did not eat lunch til 4 on Sunday!)
You may have omitted or forgotten a little shopping (the reason we did not eat lunch til 4 on Sunday!)
Dec 26th, 2012, 11:26 AM
#64
Still loving your report! Cant wait to try your restaurant suggestions. We ate at Frenchies a couple years back, but could not get reservations our last 2 trips. I read that you can now make reservations online. Did u make reservations? via phone or online and how far out? Thanks!
Dec 26th, 2012, 01:01 PM
#65
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,096
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LCI - for sure! What is so neat about this is that Judy and her friends and family do this all the time. I was just happy to tag along. It would be fun to have a girls trip.
Denise and Dona - we had our rental agency make the calls to Frenchie for us. It took them a while, but they finally got through. I think they told us a week or so before we left, that we had the rez.
FabulousFrance - I am going to sound like a broken record, but I found out about Rue Montorgueil through David Lebovitz. Having also been to Rue Cler, I am not sure why that gets all the attention when R-M doesn't seem to get as much. I like R-M much better.
Judy, would you believe (gasp) I forgot about the shopping on Sunday! I knew we wandered around after Diane and Barbara took off. I'm writing this up by looking at my photos...
Yes, I ended up shopping so much the timing is all a blur. I have about two weeks worth of new stuff, plus the shoes. To think I wasn't going to buy anything new this season, too.
And about that bathroom... you remember the Seinfeld skit where he said that restaurant bathrooms should have a rope, just like in the Tarzan movies? Swing in, pee, and swing out? Well, maybe it's not quite that bad, but when the barman said "it's through that door" I did not expect to actually exit the restaurant into a courtyard in order to find the bathroom. That's a mighty snug bathroom. Can you imagine using that in the dead of winter? I have used a similar kind of bathroom in the dead of winter (trip to Italy a few years ago) and it's mighty cold.
Denise and Dona - we had our rental agency make the calls to Frenchie for us. It took them a while, but they finally got through. I think they told us a week or so before we left, that we had the rez.
FabulousFrance - I am going to sound like a broken record, but I found out about Rue Montorgueil through David Lebovitz. Having also been to Rue Cler, I am not sure why that gets all the attention when R-M doesn't seem to get as much. I like R-M much better.
Judy, would you believe (gasp) I forgot about the shopping on Sunday! I knew we wandered around after Diane and Barbara took off. I'm writing this up by looking at my photos...
Yes, I ended up shopping so much the timing is all a blur. I have about two weeks worth of new stuff, plus the shoes. To think I wasn't going to buy anything new this season, too.
And about that bathroom... you remember the Seinfeld skit where he said that restaurant bathrooms should have a rope, just like in the Tarzan movies? Swing in, pee, and swing out? Well, maybe it's not quite that bad, but when the barman said "it's through that door" I did not expect to actually exit the restaurant into a courtyard in order to find the bathroom. That's a mighty snug bathroom. Can you imagine using that in the dead of winter? I have used a similar kind of bathroom in the dead of winter (trip to Italy a few years ago) and it's mighty cold.
Dec 26th, 2012, 05:04 PM
#68
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,096
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
kerouac - and how. Judy, agreed!
Tomorrow's installment will be day 5, Wednesday. Tuesday (day four) was the halfway part of the trip for me, boo hoo.
Sneak peek of Wednesday:
<b>Judy's daughter arrives
Our day with Scott
Visit to the new Islamic Wing in the Louvre
Lunch at Cafe Nemours
Visit to the Musee d'Orsay exhibit on Impressionism and Fashion.
Dinner at Septime.
</b>
Tomorrow's installment will be day 5, Wednesday. Tuesday (day four) was the halfway part of the trip for me, boo hoo.
Sneak peek of Wednesday:
<b>Judy's daughter arrives
Our day with Scott
Visit to the new Islamic Wing in the Louvre
Lunch at Cafe Nemours
Visit to the Musee d'Orsay exhibit on Impressionism and Fashion.
Dinner at Septime.
</b>
Dec 28th, 2012, 03:57 AM
#70
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,096
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Scootoir, for my first Paris rental, I thought they were great! Very nice and helpful, the flat was nice, can't beat the location, and I also thought it was a nice touch that phone calls home (to a landline) were free.
<b>Day 5 </b>
Wednesday morning. Judy's daughter was due to arrive and we were to spend most of the day with Scott, who along with Michael are tour guides extraordinaires.
Her plane was a little late and she arrived around 10 AM or so. We all hung out in their flat until she arrived and shortly after that took off for our first stop: <b>Islamic Wing at the Louvre.</b>
I didn't realize how very close their flat (on Rue Mazarine) was to <b>Pont des Arts</b>! What a great location! A shortcut to the Louvre.
We wandered across the bridge and into the Louvre courtyards. Scott made mention that the Louvre is still an unfinished building. They are constantly updating and upgrading it. Interesting...
The new wing, only opened this very fall, started in the Visconti Courtyard which is now almost completely under a golden undulating roof. The roof, which I guess is meant to depict a Bedouin tent, looks like a fragile masterpiece (even though it weights on the order of 150 tons). It cost some 97-98 million euros to create, and was the result of an Italian and French architect winning the competition to design the new wing, in 2005. Mario Bellini and Rudy Ricciotti.
We wandered through the top floor (under the tent) and then made our way down below. Apparently the items are arranged chronologically (regardless of region) rather than geographically, and spans roughly 12 centuries. Photos are allowed, although I believe no flash.
Flipping through my photos (only a few of which are posted) I see many examples of tile, stone work, incredibly delicate chain mail, pottery/vases, and some intricately designed plates/cups/table ware. I did not take a photo of Louis XIII baptismal font and I wish I had.
After we wandered through a few galleries, Scott took us upstairs to view the roof from above. The best view is apparently in the "Mona Lisa gallery". Interesting to see that here we were, gazing down upon this brand new and exciting addition to the Louvre, completely alone next to the window. The room, on the other side of the partition holding Mona Lisa, was completely packed and abuzz with people, some tiny flagpoles waving in the air (guides), yet we were alone. As we walked back out, a tourist in the doorway snapped a photo of the wall placard which depicted a tiny rendition of the Mona Lisa. Talk about giving up. "Eh, we didn't see THE Mona Lisa, but I do have this photo of a wall placard in the very same room".
We then went to visit the large scale French paintings (the Delacroix painting "Liberty leading the people" is at Lens, on loan - a new Louvre satellite) and then through the prior stables (or was it indoor riding arena?) and then out... and made our way to Cafe Nemours.
to be continued...
<b>Day 5 </b>
Wednesday morning. Judy's daughter was due to arrive and we were to spend most of the day with Scott, who along with Michael are tour guides extraordinaires.
Her plane was a little late and she arrived around 10 AM or so. We all hung out in their flat until she arrived and shortly after that took off for our first stop: <b>Islamic Wing at the Louvre.</b>
I didn't realize how very close their flat (on Rue Mazarine) was to <b>Pont des Arts</b>! What a great location! A shortcut to the Louvre.
We wandered across the bridge and into the Louvre courtyards. Scott made mention that the Louvre is still an unfinished building. They are constantly updating and upgrading it. Interesting...
The new wing, only opened this very fall, started in the Visconti Courtyard which is now almost completely under a golden undulating roof. The roof, which I guess is meant to depict a Bedouin tent, looks like a fragile masterpiece (even though it weights on the order of 150 tons). It cost some 97-98 million euros to create, and was the result of an Italian and French architect winning the competition to design the new wing, in 2005. Mario Bellini and Rudy Ricciotti.
We wandered through the top floor (under the tent) and then made our way down below. Apparently the items are arranged chronologically (regardless of region) rather than geographically, and spans roughly 12 centuries. Photos are allowed, although I believe no flash.
Flipping through my photos (only a few of which are posted) I see many examples of tile, stone work, incredibly delicate chain mail, pottery/vases, and some intricately designed plates/cups/table ware. I did not take a photo of Louis XIII baptismal font and I wish I had.
After we wandered through a few galleries, Scott took us upstairs to view the roof from above. The best view is apparently in the "Mona Lisa gallery". Interesting to see that here we were, gazing down upon this brand new and exciting addition to the Louvre, completely alone next to the window. The room, on the other side of the partition holding Mona Lisa, was completely packed and abuzz with people, some tiny flagpoles waving in the air (guides), yet we were alone. As we walked back out, a tourist in the doorway snapped a photo of the wall placard which depicted a tiny rendition of the Mona Lisa. Talk about giving up. "Eh, we didn't see THE Mona Lisa, but I do have this photo of a wall placard in the very same room".
We then went to visit the large scale French paintings (the Delacroix painting "Liberty leading the people" is at Lens, on loan - a new Louvre satellite) and then through the prior stables (or was it indoor riding arena?) and then out... and made our way to Cafe Nemours.
to be continued...
Dec 29th, 2012, 04:07 AM
#72
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,357
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
flygirl,
I am reading every word twice! You have helped my re-entry so much.....I can still savor Paris as I read your report...waiting for the next installment. Happy New Year and hope to see you soon........
I am reading every word twice! You have helped my re-entry so much.....I can still savor Paris as I read your report...waiting for the next installment. Happy New Year and hope to see you soon........
Dec 29th, 2012, 05:32 AM
#73
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,096
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lisa, I know what you mean - I had pangs every time I saw your/Judy's updates on Facebook after I left.
For anyone reading this, don't hesitate to go to Paris in the winter. Sure, it's grey and drizzly at times - but the cafes are so inviting and you can even sit outside just like in summer - they have space heaters in many places (or blankets, although I would not use a blanket left outside).
Traviata, your visits to Paris are something to aspire to - twice a year a well! I'm home all winter so maybe after Anne and Kirk are home from Italy we can have a winter lunch GTG.
OK... on with the day.
We met the rest of our party at <b>Cafe Nemours</b> which is very near the entrance to Palais Royal. I've been to this cafe several times, and mostly with Michael or Scott. This cafe has had a cameo in some movies, for instance, "The Tourist" with Angelina Jolie and Johnny Depp. The cafe is also along the route of the "Arago Line" which is made up of plaques peppered along the Paris Meridian of old. Here is some history about that:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paris_meridian
After lunch, we wandered through the <b>Tuileries to the Musee d'Orsay for the exhibit on "Impressionism and Fashion".</b> Many of the "usual suspects" were on display (meaning the Impressionist paintings most of us here would recognize) but what was especially delightful was that they had many examples of dress from that time period and in one memorable instance, THE very dress worn in this painting below:
http://www.vogue.fr/culture/a-voir/d...1/image/629093
At least one of the rooms was set up as if it were an imaginary fashion show, with rows of chairs lining both walls and names of luminaries of the time on each place card.
In reading reviews after the fact, some things pop out at me: this was the era that fashion became big(ger?) business in France. Renoir was the son of a tailor/dressmaker, and Whistler designed a number of the dresses worn in his portraits. Mallarme (friend of Manet) edited a fashion magazine.
Seeing this exhibit, and reading about it after the fact, brings to mind a book by the author Jack Finney. He wrote many books in the 1950s-60s-70s and many of them were on time travel. In the book "Time and Again" (present day person travels back in time to the late 1800s) he describes the difference between seeing a woman's dress/shoes in a museum versus closing your eyes and imagining it as it must have looked when worn: brand new, sparkling, with crisp folds and shining leather shoes - and on a human form. I'm paraphrasing a book I first read at least two decades ago, but the gist of it is that you have to imagine yourself in that time.
One thought that I had upon exiting is how quickly fashion changed after this era, never to return. This era was from the latter part of the 19th century, with its voluminous skirts and bustles and layers and layers and layers (and impossibly tiny little waists)... and then just a few years later in the 1920s (and probably earlier) look how sleek fashions became.
This show will be stateside in both NYC and Chicago.
Shortly after we exited I parted company with our group to stroll around for a bit before heading back to the flat to get ready for dinner at <b>Septime</b>.
To be continued...
For anyone reading this, don't hesitate to go to Paris in the winter. Sure, it's grey and drizzly at times - but the cafes are so inviting and you can even sit outside just like in summer - they have space heaters in many places (or blankets, although I would not use a blanket left outside).
Traviata, your visits to Paris are something to aspire to - twice a year a well! I'm home all winter so maybe after Anne and Kirk are home from Italy we can have a winter lunch GTG.
OK... on with the day.
We met the rest of our party at <b>Cafe Nemours</b> which is very near the entrance to Palais Royal. I've been to this cafe several times, and mostly with Michael or Scott. This cafe has had a cameo in some movies, for instance, "The Tourist" with Angelina Jolie and Johnny Depp. The cafe is also along the route of the "Arago Line" which is made up of plaques peppered along the Paris Meridian of old. Here is some history about that:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paris_meridian
After lunch, we wandered through the <b>Tuileries to the Musee d'Orsay for the exhibit on "Impressionism and Fashion".</b> Many of the "usual suspects" were on display (meaning the Impressionist paintings most of us here would recognize) but what was especially delightful was that they had many examples of dress from that time period and in one memorable instance, THE very dress worn in this painting below:
http://www.vogue.fr/culture/a-voir/d...1/image/629093
At least one of the rooms was set up as if it were an imaginary fashion show, with rows of chairs lining both walls and names of luminaries of the time on each place card.
In reading reviews after the fact, some things pop out at me: this was the era that fashion became big(ger?) business in France. Renoir was the son of a tailor/dressmaker, and Whistler designed a number of the dresses worn in his portraits. Mallarme (friend of Manet) edited a fashion magazine.
Seeing this exhibit, and reading about it after the fact, brings to mind a book by the author Jack Finney. He wrote many books in the 1950s-60s-70s and many of them were on time travel. In the book "Time and Again" (present day person travels back in time to the late 1800s) he describes the difference between seeing a woman's dress/shoes in a museum versus closing your eyes and imagining it as it must have looked when worn: brand new, sparkling, with crisp folds and shining leather shoes - and on a human form. I'm paraphrasing a book I first read at least two decades ago, but the gist of it is that you have to imagine yourself in that time.
One thought that I had upon exiting is how quickly fashion changed after this era, never to return. This era was from the latter part of the 19th century, with its voluminous skirts and bustles and layers and layers and layers (and impossibly tiny little waists)... and then just a few years later in the 1920s (and probably earlier) look how sleek fashions became.
This show will be stateside in both NYC and Chicago.
Shortly after we exited I parted company with our group to stroll around for a bit before heading back to the flat to get ready for dinner at <b>Septime</b>.
To be continued...
Dec 29th, 2012, 12:17 PM
#75
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We also enjoyed the Fashion and Impressionism show, but am bookmarking your post for ideas on where to go next time. Is Judy's rental apartment from the same company? Is it a one bedroom? If so, can I get the info on it please? Thanks.
Dec 29th, 2012, 01:03 PM
#76
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,585
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
susncrg, I was in a 2 bedroom with 2 friends and my daughter. The website is www.parisvacationapartments.com I've stayed in many of their apartments (though never in Montmartre)and have never been disappointed.
The only issue I've ever had has been availability as they tend to book up early.
The only issue I've ever had has been availability as they tend to book up early.
Dec 30th, 2012, 01:02 AM
#77
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am only now catching up on your lovely report. I knew it would make me pine for Paris. 
Cafe le Nemours is my fave cafe in Paris. I just love the location - especially seeing that whimsical metro entrance only metres away.
Cafe le Nemours is my fave cafe in Paris. I just love the location - especially seeing that whimsical metro entrance only metres away.
Dec 30th, 2012, 03:27 AM
#78
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,096
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am happy to say that I've now seen three apartments where Judy and her friends and family have stayed. One on the Ile St. Louis, one on Rue Mazarine, and one on Rue Dauphine. All two bedrooms. I think their last one, Rue Dauphine, was the star of that galaxy. They were all pleasant, but this one just sparkled. Two massive bedrooms, two bathrooms (one of them truly impressive upon viewing, would love to hear if it was as useful as it was pretty), a DINING ROOM (truth), a kitchen with a BREAKFAST NOOK (oh yes).
I liked the Ile St. Louis one a great deal as well. The Rue Mazarine was perfectly pleasant with a fabulous, large kitchen but not quite the same vibe.
I didn't stay in them, so who am I to say, but those were my impressions. I'm telling you, Judy has the scoop. If you get tips from her, follow them. She knows how to pick them!
Mez, nice to see you here!
OK, the rest of the evening:
One of Lisa's friends was also in town for a conference and he joined us for dinner, so we had a party of six. The more the merrier!
The reservation this evening was at <b>Septime</b>, in the 11th arrondissement. I learned in reading some reviews that the chef, Bertrand Grébaut, started his career at a three star restaurant (L'Arpege) and in time earned his own Michelin star (not at Septime).
This restaurant, like Verjus, serves what the chef makes that evening. I'm not even sure we were handed a menu although maybe Judy or Lisa might remember differently. There was a wine list. They will ask you ahead of time if you have allergies or things you dislike, but otherwise, you will eat it and you will like it.
I don't even have a menu, this time, to cheat from. I have a few pictures but I'm not completely sure what all the ingredients are. I know, I'm useless. But it was really good! I put it above Frenchies. I know, I know, the New York Times, she's a-calling with a new post for me - restaurant reviewer.
It did have a somewhat more vibrant feel to me, than Frenchies. A lot of talking and laughing going on all around us, and the wait staff were friendly. Not that Frenchies was stuffy, but it seemed somewhat more "low tones" to me than Septime.
http://parisbymouth.com/our-guide-to-paris-septime/
Sneak peek for day 6, Thursday:
<b>
Early train to Reims
Reims Cathedral
MARC CHAGALL WINDOWS
Les Crayeres meal, complete with wine pairings.
Ruinart cave tour.
250 euro bottle of Rose, Grand Cru Champagne.
</b>
I liked the Ile St. Louis one a great deal as well. The Rue Mazarine was perfectly pleasant with a fabulous, large kitchen but not quite the same vibe.
I didn't stay in them, so who am I to say, but those were my impressions. I'm telling you, Judy has the scoop. If you get tips from her, follow them. She knows how to pick them!
Mez, nice to see you here!
OK, the rest of the evening:
One of Lisa's friends was also in town for a conference and he joined us for dinner, so we had a party of six. The more the merrier!
The reservation this evening was at <b>Septime</b>, in the 11th arrondissement. I learned in reading some reviews that the chef, Bertrand Grébaut, started his career at a three star restaurant (L'Arpege) and in time earned his own Michelin star (not at Septime).
This restaurant, like Verjus, serves what the chef makes that evening. I'm not even sure we were handed a menu although maybe Judy or Lisa might remember differently. There was a wine list. They will ask you ahead of time if you have allergies or things you dislike, but otherwise, you will eat it and you will like it.
I don't even have a menu, this time, to cheat from. I have a few pictures but I'm not completely sure what all the ingredients are. I know, I'm useless. But it was really good! I put it above Frenchies. I know, I know, the New York Times, she's a-calling with a new post for me - restaurant reviewer.
It did have a somewhat more vibrant feel to me, than Frenchies. A lot of talking and laughing going on all around us, and the wait staff were friendly. Not that Frenchies was stuffy, but it seemed somewhat more "low tones" to me than Septime.
http://parisbymouth.com/our-guide-to-paris-septime/
Sneak peek for day 6, Thursday:
<b>
Early train to Reims
Reims Cathedral
MARC CHAGALL WINDOWS
Les Crayeres meal, complete with wine pairings.
Ruinart cave tour.
250 euro bottle of Rose, Grand Cru Champagne.
</b>
Dec 30th, 2012, 03:40 AM
#79
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,585
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
flygirl, I know Lisa will recall some of the menu as she ate some things she never thought would pass her lips (the venison carpaccio with wild strawberries being one item)
I'd had lunch once before at Septime and there were choices, limited, but still choices. I would definitely return and take my chances on the dinner again. I can't remember everything we ate but I know I ate every bit of it!
I know there was a scallop dish and veal with veggies. I also liked the vibe better than Frenchie, not as much as Verjus.
I'd had lunch once before at Septime and there were choices, limited, but still choices. I would definitely return and take my chances on the dinner again. I can't remember everything we ate but I know I ate every bit of it!
I know there was a scallop dish and veal with veggies. I also liked the vibe better than Frenchie, not as much as Verjus.
Dec 30th, 2012, 03:55 AM
#80
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,096
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK, I thought there were scallops! I didn't have a photo of them. And that was venison, not lamb (I did have a photo of that). VERY good, all of it. This is definitely a must-return. And bonus, you can actually get a reservation.
