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Lisbon and EURO 2004 - My Trip Report

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Old Jun 29th, 2004, 01:36 PM
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hsv
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Lisbon and EURO 2004 - My Trip Report

As I have enjoyed reading some trip reports here on Fodor's, I thought I might just as well contribute mine from a trip to the European Football (soccer) Championships I was lucky to be invited to participate in.

Last Tuesday, I took a train from Hamburg to Hannover to meet some friends whom I also have some business with and boarded an evening Crossair flight to Zurich.
It was a small Embraer but service was extremely friendly and the ride was smooth.
In Zurich we got picked up by a Limousine at the plane and were taken to Swiss Airline's lounge where we were treated to a vast selection of Swiss cheese while waiting for our Swiss flight on to Lisbon and started to get in the mood for the European Championships by switching the telly to the Denmark vs. Sweden match.

Having suffered so far from a terrible summer here in Northern Germany, I had been looking forward to a few days of Portuguese sunshine- which is why I was hit by a bit of a shock when I saw the players compete in Porto's dripping rain. But there is always hope in a glass of Italian red wine (along with the cheese we indulged in), which lifted my spirits again.

We continued on our flight to Lisbon being served some light dinner consisting of salad and ? take your guess ? Swiss Cheese. Having refrained from eating too much cheese in the Lounge in order to leave some space in my stomach for a late night dinner on the plane that would help time to literally fly by, I was sort of disappointed with this - only to discover moments later (and already having finished my cheese again) that a main course of rather well cooked beef or Ravioli was still to come. Never mind.

After our nightly landing in Lisbon we transferred to our Hotel in Estoril, which is a sort of upscale beach community about 25 km from Lisbon where we stayed at Hotel Vila Gale. This property is right across the street from the beach and sports a local four star rating which would probably result in a three star in Germany, but which was still fine, especially considering the rate we got, which was significantly lower than the rates predominant within the city currently resulting from the Football Championships.
Having a few beers for a good night's sleep on the local square we were entertained by a few Croatian fans singing some folk songs, the meaning of which remained undisclosed to us, and one drunk Portuguese who turned this into a song contest and tried loudly but not exactly melodiously to compete with the Croatians.
BTW I discovered that I prefer the local brew with the amazingly absurd name "Super Bock" to the Danish brand of Carlsberg as it makes me belch much less?

Having had some really good breakfast at the hotel the next morning, we boarded a train that took us to downtown Lisbon, arriving at station Cais do Sodres.
We decided to stroll the chess-field like streets of Baixa and to slowly climb up to the castle Castelo de Sao Jorge in order to catch some glimpse of this beautiful old city and the majestic River Tejo. The view you get from up there is certainly worth the steep climb through the narrow and winding streets of Old Town Alfama.

We then caught the small, old and rattling streetcar of Line 28 on the back of the hill to take us back into the city and then climbed up to Bairro Alto behind Rossio square to have some leisurely late lunch with a couple of beers at Cervejeria Trindade before the big match (we then hoped for) between Germany and the Czech Republic in the evening. This is a rather pretty old restaurant housed in a former monastery serving reasonably priced local food of comparatively good quality and some good brews in a room with ancient tiles and an adjacent outdoor patio in the back. You might want to make some reservations ahead or bring enough time to wait for a table (and then for the beers, and then for the food, and then for the bill? ;-) ).

Having climbed down again we found Rossio square by then crowded with football fans from predominantly and evidently, as those teams were to play that night, Germany and the Czech Republic. We negotiated with some English fans about their tickets to next night's match of England vs. Portugal, but succumbed to the rather hefty prices of around € 300.- for one ticket. We eased our disappointment by having some more beers on the square before boarding the metro to the stadium.

Arriving early at the stadium was a good idea for two reasons: The security screening held us up for a couple of minutes - but even more time consuming was to purchase some drinks inside the stadium. For some reason, they tried to work off orders one by one, which meant that every waiter had to work the tap for exactly the number of beers ordered from him (instead of having one person in charge of the tap), which resulted in ridiculously long waiting times for the thirsty throats congregated before the counters.
Anyway, after half an hour of waiting I just returned to my seat in time for the national anthem. Missing the national anthem usually is a bad indication for me on a football match (I am a bit superstitious about this), but I am not so sure this is still valid after the outrageously disastrous match that followed on behalf of the Germans. I will gladly spare any details here. Only so much: That was the worst team ever to play in black and white and the attitude of our so called football "heroes" (a status they have long outlasted in my opinion) was appalling. But then again, they were so bad, that they did neither deserve any pity nor to proceed in the tournament and thus made it easy to not be negatively affected in the least by their poor performance.

As lines in front of the metro were intolerably long after the match, we decided to cross town by taxi, which cost us a lousy € 5.-, down to a quay area called Docas by the bridge across the river. This is basically a 500 m line-up of different bars and pubs where fans from all over Europe congregated to celebrate their (or in our case) other nations' teams.
At around 2 a.m. we tried to venture on into a local discotheque by the name of "Queens" which was not that far away from Docas area. We smilingly refused to pay the requested entrance fee of € 15.- only to be still admitted. Small wonder- the place was deserted, which caused us to return for a few more beers to Docas before taking a taxi back to Estoril.

On short city-trips like this one I tend to be a bit restless and might even annoy my companions by this, but I felt that on my last day in the city I needed to get up early and get back into town in order to see some more sights and experience the place a bit more, whereas my mates decided it was time for a cool-down-day by the pool.

I got on a train which I unboarded at Belem. Within reasonable walking distance from the station there is the monastery Mosteiro dos Jeronimos dating back to 1500 and sporting stunningly rich decorated architecture in the local "Manueline" style. In the adjacent church, there are the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Portugal's national poet Fernando Pessoa.

From here it is only a 20 minute walk to the famous Torre de Belem by the River Tejo, a tower once erected in the middle of the river in order to deceive attacking navies about the cities' readiness to defend itself as it was supposed to look from afar like the bow of a ship. Today, the river has diminished somewhat in size (along with Portugal's glory as a seafarer's nation ;-) ) and the tower sits right on the shore.

On my way back to the station in Belem, I stopped at Antiga Pastelaria Nacional do Belem between the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos and the Presidential Palace in order to have some original Pastel do Belem pastry sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar along with a bica (local espresso-like coffee) as this is the shop where this sinfully good stuff is said to have been invented.

I proceeded into town to Cais do Sodres, from where I climbed up the hill to take a glimpse at the outwardly unimpressive but inwardly richly decorated church Igreja de Sao Roque.

Almost across the street there is a lounge called Solar do Vinho Porto selling an extensive and impressive collection of fine port wines. For those of you, who will undertake a trip to Lisbon within the next few weeks and who want to stop by there, too, this place is a bit hard to identify, as the façade of the building housing it is currently under reconstruction. I took a rest there for a couple of minutes and sipped 2 ports, of which I then purchased two bottles (Burmester 10 year old Tawny for the afficionados among you) for a souvenir.

Elevador da Gloria (streetcar-like elevator) took me down to Avenida da Liberdade from where I crossed Rossio (ticket prices for the England vs. Portugal match were up to € 350.- as I learned from some English fans) and climbed into the Chiado neighbourhood. I stopped at Hotel Lisboa Regency Chiado in order to enjoy a refreshment of ice tea on their spectacular rooftop- terrace before catching a train back to Estoril in order to drop off the Port.

As it was only 4 p.m. and thus almost 4 hours to go to the England vs. Portugal match which we had decided to watch at a beachfront bar cum restaurant in Estoril before making it to the airport to our 2.30 a.m. flight back to Zurich and Hannover, I decided to take the train to the neighbouring village of Cascais and take a look at the local cove called Boca do Inferno. Do not be fooled by any guide that tells you this cove is only one kilometre from the station- I tried and hiked (and ran, as it was really getting late) the distance, and it took me at least half an hour for each direction? Anyway, it was a beautifully quiet day which caused Boca do Inferno to be a rather calm and unspectacular but still pretty place. So what?

I returned to Estoril, took a quick dip first in the Ocean, then in the hotel's pool and got dressed for the (as it turned out) spectacular match of England vs. Portugal, (which even would arguably have been worth the steep ticket prices).
Normally rooting for England (I know this sounds strange for a German ;-) ), this match did not deserve to have any loser and thus even the Portuguese got a little of my sympathy during the match (not meaning to say that this sympathy carried them to their victory). Everybody in the end was chanting something that sounded like "Portugaesh, Emusaesh", the meaning of which stayed unclear to me, but which really burnt itself into my ears. People even seemed to enjoy it, when a small group of Germans started to chant this one on their own and happily joined in. Finally we watched the locals parade in their cars down the street in order to celebrate a won quarter final. This, BTW, leaves me to wonder what's going to happen if the Portuguese indeed win the finals ? And, without wanting to offend anyone, keeps me thinking that a nation so glad to have won a quarter final cannot have won much in the past? ;-)

The traffic jam caused by this parade caused us to take an early taxi to the airport so we would not miss our flight to Zurich, which turned out to be a good idea, not because of terrible traffic but because one particularly intellectually challenged member of our group discovered that he had lost his ticket during the 2 rough days in Lisbon?A lost ticket sets you back some € 100.- with Swiss Airlines.
Waiting for our nightly flight out of the city the same member of the group lost us and his way within the airport, but still managed to arrive in time at the gate, which made us complete the trip together. As a recommendation for future travellers, I advise to not take the middle seat (even in Swiss' Business Class in Row 1) as there is absolutely no room to stretch out your feet and thus get some sleep on a 2.5 hour flight that departs at 2.30 a.m. local time, being 3.30 a.m. C.E.T! If you still do, I can only recommend the hot showers in Swiss' Lounge at the Zurich airport along with some Espresso and fresh fruit.

After an unspectacular flight on Crossair (operated by the same crew as our flight out three days before), we arrived tired but gladly in Hannover.
Unfortunately, I cannot comment on the train trip back to Hamburg, as for obvious reasons, I successfully tried to squeeze in a fraction of the "eight-hours" that I had lost during recent days.

What's there to learn for the average traveller?

- Travelling on Swiss Business Class, be prepared for a lot of cheese and not too much legroom.

- Taxis in Lisbon are dirt cheap.

- Super Bock and Sagres are absolutely worthwhile local brews ? and it might well take a while to obtain one.

- Never ever make a German football team your reason to travel anywhere.

- Never trust a doorman who promises "girls galore" in local discos for € 15.- on a Football night in Lisbon

- Be prepared for a hike when visiting Boca do Inferno in Cascais.

- Lock your tickets in the hotel room safe.

- Be glad that your football trip took you to Lisbon, which is an extremely pleasant place.

Should any of you have any further questions, I will gladly try to answer them here.

Regards
hsv
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Old Jun 29th, 2004, 04:41 PM
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Thanks hsv, I've heard wonderful things about Lisbon from a friend who returns every year.
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Old Jun 30th, 2004, 02:15 AM
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I can see you made your homework. Funny thing the "Portugaesh, Emusaesh"
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Old Jun 30th, 2004, 06:50 AM
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Thanks. Actually hardly any homework. Rather work in progress on location. But worked out well.

Can anybody actually explain to me what that refrain " "Portugaesh, Emusaesh" " means?

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Old Jun 30th, 2004, 07:53 AM
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Not the slightliest clue. Are you sure you have been to Portugal? To my ears, it sounds more like Arabic or Greek.
For a person doing "line of sight navigation" you hit all the interesting spots (except maybe Sintra and the former Expo98 grouds). For such a short visit you couldn't have done better.
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Old Jun 30th, 2004, 11:43 AM
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lobo_mau,

you seem to be pretty well informed! Actually that should be the refrain from a TV-trailer played during half-time on Portuguese TV. If you know that trailer, you might be able to understand what I mean!

I acknowledge that the spelling I used is sort of adapted to English pronounciation and in itself might appear Arabic.

But, taking into account the sights I visited, I am positive to have been in Portugal. I also would have liked to take a close look at the former Expo grounds, which I am aware to have left out, but time just did not allow it. I guess I will have to return (at least that provides me a reason) ;-)!

Be assured that just now all my sympathy (and that of millions of others in this country) is with Portugal in their match against Holland!

Further good luck for you
hsv
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Old Jun 30th, 2004, 01:28 PM
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hsv

I enjoyed reading your trip report very much.

I believe the tv-trailer refrain you mentioned is actually "Queremos mais,queremos muito mais" (We want more, we want a lot more)which sounds like "ke-reh-moosh-meash".

Better luck for Germany next time!
 
Old Jun 30th, 2004, 01:38 PM
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tecla,

still thrilled by the once again fantastic performance (you should just score a little bit better) of the Portuguese team tonight, I appreciate your enlightening comment. That certainly makes a lot of sense!

A good night to you
hsv
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Old Jul 1st, 2004, 01:58 PM
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tecla,

(or anyone else familiar with Portuguese TV),

if you know the song being played during halftime on telly, do you know by any chance the name of the band?

It would be important for me, as this song brings back such nice memories, so I would like to purchase it here in Germany, if possible (which I am pretty sure it would be)!

Thanks so much - and yes, I, too, would like to be given much more of their football!

hsv
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