Less traveled vacation in Basilicata
Oct 15th, 2023, 03:04 PM
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Less traveled vacation in Basilicata
I'm looking for input.
I want to explore Basilicata, where my family is from (I don't know of any family there, but we are from Avigliano). My plan is to fly into Bari, rent a car, and explore for 2 weeks, maybe longer if it makes sense. There are obvious things I want to see (Matera, Craco, etc) but mostly I'm looking for small, local flavor. The truth is, I want to get a sense of life there with an eye to potentially moving there. I want to avoid tourist centers, and "big" cities. I love to walk, shop, drink wine and eat salumi, and relax. And I've been studying the language for more than a year. So towns or small cities to visit or stay in, or use as a base of operations while I drive around to other places?
So that I'm clear on what I look for, the Orkney in Scotland was the most stirring, amazing, life-changing place I've ever visited. Not a ton to do, but the desolate neolithic landscape and sparsely populated regions were the antidote to all the frustrations I've been feeling for a few years now. The landscape of Basilicata, while not freezing and rainy, speaks to my imagination in much the same way. So beaches, bikinis, frozen cocktails -- no.
I want to explore Basilicata, where my family is from (I don't know of any family there, but we are from Avigliano). My plan is to fly into Bari, rent a car, and explore for 2 weeks, maybe longer if it makes sense. There are obvious things I want to see (Matera, Craco, etc) but mostly I'm looking for small, local flavor. The truth is, I want to get a sense of life there with an eye to potentially moving there. I want to avoid tourist centers, and "big" cities. I love to walk, shop, drink wine and eat salumi, and relax. And I've been studying the language for more than a year. So towns or small cities to visit or stay in, or use as a base of operations while I drive around to other places?
So that I'm clear on what I look for, the Orkney in Scotland was the most stirring, amazing, life-changing place I've ever visited. Not a ton to do, but the desolate neolithic landscape and sparsely populated regions were the antidote to all the frustrations I've been feeling for a few years now. The landscape of Basilicata, while not freezing and rainy, speaks to my imagination in much the same way. So beaches, bikinis, frozen cocktails -- no.
Oct 15th, 2023, 06:56 PM
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Straight off, I've not been there-yet. I am so ADHD, OCD, ABC that I have already planned to be there in November 2024. So I check out the places, trains, planes, buses, ferries now (Oct/Nov 2023) to get a sense if my trip by public transpo is possible, feasible, doable. I am staying in Matera (the Stassi), Maratea, Lecce, and Manopoli with trips to Alberobello, Taranto, Otranto, Trani, Locotorondo, Polignano del Mar, Mofetta and Ostuni.
In deciding on these places, almost all of them are on the best of southern Italy, the most unique in SI, the best small towns of SI, most unique towns of SI, etc, etc, etc.
There are many, many youtube videos of virtually all these towns. That's my plan and my plans always work out. Good luck.
In deciding on these places, almost all of them are on the best of southern Italy, the most unique in SI, the best small towns of SI, most unique towns of SI, etc, etc, etc.
There are many, many youtube videos of virtually all these towns. That's my plan and my plans always work out. Good luck.
Oct 16th, 2023, 06:28 AM
#4
We' spent a magical night in Maratea in Bscilicata last year, as we worked our way up the Calabrian coast towards Naples. We will be returning to South Italy later this month, to explore Puglia (jan47ete's post covers several highlights of the region) and some more of Basilicata as we drive west from Matera It sounds like your primary focus is Basilicata, so I'm sharing two links that have been very helpful with that piece of my itinerary planning :
https://borghipiubelliditalia.it/en/basilicata/
https://www.intrepidescape.com/south...icata-borghis/
https://borghipiubelliditalia.it/en/basilicata/
https://www.intrepidescape.com/south...icata-borghis/
Oct 16th, 2023, 08:35 AM
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I wrote a long report on my time I Basilicata last month; you can see it here.
In short, we spent 5 days Maratea, 1 night Senise/Tursi. 2 nights Matera.
We'd been before and this time was as great as the first.. Did not visit Cracco or Pisticci on this trip but both are well worth the time. HIGHLY recommend Tursi which would fit your stated needs.
https://www.theorangeryretreat.com/
On a previous trip we spent time in Bernalda which is a wonderful town....near the ruins of Metaponto.
I am happy to answer questions:
Live! Very brief report on a few southern italian destinations
In short, we spent 5 days Maratea, 1 night Senise/Tursi. 2 nights Matera.
We'd been before and this time was as great as the first.. Did not visit Cracco or Pisticci on this trip but both are well worth the time. HIGHLY recommend Tursi which would fit your stated needs.
https://www.theorangeryretreat.com/
On a previous trip we spent time in Bernalda which is a wonderful town....near the ruins of Metaponto.
I am happy to answer questions:
Live! Very brief report on a few southern italian destinations
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Oct 16th, 2023 at 08:39 AM.
Oct 16th, 2023, 11:03 AM
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You specified Basilicata which is a lot less tourist-oriented (except for Matera and Maratea) than Puglia. We visit Puglia every autumn and sometimes visit some places in Basilicata too.
Here's the link to my blog posts about Basilicata - you'll need to click on 'older posts' bottom right to see them all.
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...bel/Basilicata
If you're looking for that feeling of empty spaces and lonely landscapes I think you'll find it. Especially in autumn, spring will be greener I think.
We visited Irsina and Miglionico from Matera. Irsina is fantastic.
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...rsina-and.html
Venosa, another fantastic place, also makes a good base. From there we visited Ripacandida and Melfi
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...and-melfi.html
Pisticci is a good base to see Craco Tursi and the area of the Calanchi.
In autumn 2021 we also visited the Daunia area of Puglia, that is the inland area west and south set of Foggia. Landscapes are similar to Basilicata. Places like Pietramontecorvino and Sant'Agata di Puglia enchanted us
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...one-fossi.html
All in all I preferred these places in Puglia: Pietramontecorvino, Sant'Agata di Puglia, Troia, Lucera, Bovino, Deliceto in Daunia to Basilicata (with the exception of Matera,Irsina, Venosa and Pietropertosa). It's awkward to draw conclusions on just a few days in each place but in general Puglia (even inland out of the way neglected by tourism places) seemed to us more hospitable, it was easier to find a place with great local food without spending a fortune, people were friendlier and ready for a chat, accommodation good and easy to find, we manged to visit churches we wanted to see because somebody was helpful to call somebody else, to give a hand. You could find somewhere open for a coffee mid-afternoon etc etc. Visiting Basilicata required a lot more effort. Exceptions to this are Matera, Irsina and Pietrapertosa.
I would plan for longer than two weeks if you want to really get a feel of the area.
You could also try posting your question on the Slow Europe travel forum, some members live in Basilicata.
Here's the link to my blog posts about Basilicata - you'll need to click on 'older posts' bottom right to see them all.
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...bel/Basilicata
If you're looking for that feeling of empty spaces and lonely landscapes I think you'll find it. Especially in autumn, spring will be greener I think.
We visited Irsina and Miglionico from Matera. Irsina is fantastic.
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...rsina-and.html
Venosa, another fantastic place, also makes a good base. From there we visited Ripacandida and Melfi
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...and-melfi.html
Pisticci is a good base to see Craco Tursi and the area of the Calanchi.
In autumn 2021 we also visited the Daunia area of Puglia, that is the inland area west and south set of Foggia. Landscapes are similar to Basilicata. Places like Pietramontecorvino and Sant'Agata di Puglia enchanted us
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...one-fossi.html
All in all I preferred these places in Puglia: Pietramontecorvino, Sant'Agata di Puglia, Troia, Lucera, Bovino, Deliceto in Daunia to Basilicata (with the exception of Matera,Irsina, Venosa and Pietropertosa). It's awkward to draw conclusions on just a few days in each place but in general Puglia (even inland out of the way neglected by tourism places) seemed to us more hospitable, it was easier to find a place with great local food without spending a fortune, people were friendlier and ready for a chat, accommodation good and easy to find, we manged to visit churches we wanted to see because somebody was helpful to call somebody else, to give a hand. You could find somewhere open for a coffee mid-afternoon etc etc. Visiting Basilicata required a lot more effort. Exceptions to this are Matera, Irsina and Pietrapertosa.
I would plan for longer than two weeks if you want to really get a feel of the area.
You could also try posting your question on the Slow Europe travel forum, some members live in Basilicata.
Oct 16th, 2023, 03:30 PM
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We visited Basilicata in 2014 and really loved it. We stayed at Hotel Torre Fiore Massera and from there visited Pisticci twice (wow!) and Bernalda at least twice. Every meal was exceptional and they make the best bread in that region. We went to Craco (my husband is a geologist w/ expertise in landslides so... a work trip) and Pietrapertosa. It's all gorgeous and 9 years ago there were very few tourists. We also spent several nights in Matera. All of the landscapes in that area are beautiful and so many towns - including the many you haven't yet heard of - are interesting to visit.
Oct 16th, 2023, 04:26 PM
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Tina and Rose. Grazie mille to you both for those most tempting ideas and information!!!
Tina!! I had read your terrific blog while on this trip. Most impressive!!
Tina!! I had read your terrific blog while on this trip. Most impressive!!
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Oct 16th, 2023 at 04:32 PM.
Oct 18th, 2023, 04:26 AM
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Tina, Ciao
! received the Pm and will be writing back to you later today or tomorrow...
Have to explore those links posted, above.
To Jan47ET: Maratea is a little out of your way without a car, especially. You ought to think about how you will get around once there, unless you plan to spend all your time in the upper/hill town of Maratea. If you want beaches, some locals in Tursi recommended Policoro as the place they go for beach...it's close to Tursi and much closer to your route than Maratea, I think. I mean, how will you get from Maratea to Lecce? Sounds like a schlep, but I'm glad your plans always work out so surely this one will as well.
! received the Pm and will be writing back to you later today or tomorrow...
Have to explore those links posted, above.
To Jan47ET: Maratea is a little out of your way without a car, especially. You ought to think about how you will get around once there, unless you plan to spend all your time in the upper/hill town of Maratea. If you want beaches, some locals in Tursi recommended Policoro as the place they go for beach...it's close to Tursi and much closer to your route than Maratea, I think. I mean, how will you get from Maratea to Lecce? Sounds like a schlep, but I'm glad your plans always work out so surely this one will as well.
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Oct 18th, 2023 at 04:33 AM.
Oct 18th, 2023, 09:49 AM
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Castelsaraceno and Sasso di Castalda have minor tourist attractions: long simple suspension pedestrian bridges, one in each town. Quite scenic, and the town itself is quaint and historic (I haven't been to Sasso, only to Castelsaraceno, but I think they're not that different). The area between the towns is a beautiful expanse of low forested mountains.
The mountain peaks between Castelmezzano and pietrapertosa are sometimes known as the "little Dolomites of Basilicata", and they're also a minor attraction with a via ferrata, hiking paths, a zipline and whatnot. The pictures of the towns and landscape look quite striking.
Pietragalla has palmenti (traditional rustic cave-like wine cellars) that can be visited.
Melfi is a pretty town with a nice Norman castle and good views of the forested Vulture volcanic mountain. The other surrounding hills are also nice. The whole Vulture region gets a few tourists, but it's no Matera.
Venosa has already been mentioned. Note that the ancient Roman Via Appia passed through Venosa, crossing Basilicata from north of Melfi towards Gravina in Puglia. Not much is left of the Roman road itself, but you can drive on top of it (on paved or dirt roads), along its original route, for long scenic stretches, especially around Venosa and Palazzo San Gervasio.
Not in Basilicata, but if you're going to Matera you should probably check out the surrounding Terra delle gravine (which Matera historically belongs to, although Matera province ended up in Basilicata and the rest of the terra delle gravine in Puglia). Gravina in Puglia, Laterza, Castellaneta and other small towns are ancient and on the side of steep-sided gorges, not unlike Matera.
The mountain peaks between Castelmezzano and pietrapertosa are sometimes known as the "little Dolomites of Basilicata", and they're also a minor attraction with a via ferrata, hiking paths, a zipline and whatnot. The pictures of the towns and landscape look quite striking.
Pietragalla has palmenti (traditional rustic cave-like wine cellars) that can be visited.
Melfi is a pretty town with a nice Norman castle and good views of the forested Vulture volcanic mountain. The other surrounding hills are also nice. The whole Vulture region gets a few tourists, but it's no Matera.
Venosa has already been mentioned. Note that the ancient Roman Via Appia passed through Venosa, crossing Basilicata from north of Melfi towards Gravina in Puglia. Not much is left of the Roman road itself, but you can drive on top of it (on paved or dirt roads), along its original route, for long scenic stretches, especially around Venosa and Palazzo San Gervasio.
Not in Basilicata, but if you're going to Matera you should probably check out the surrounding Terra delle gravine (which Matera historically belongs to, although Matera province ended up in Basilicata and the rest of the terra delle gravine in Puglia). Gravina in Puglia, Laterza, Castellaneta and other small towns are ancient and on the side of steep-sided gorges, not unlike Matera.
Last edited by mbrevitas; Oct 18th, 2023 at 09:51 AM.
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