Yikes ... my husband (who has never been to Spain) and I arrived today for two nights in Leon on our way to Santiago and on to Galicia. We have a car, and drove in from Segovia, only to see lots of anti-semetic graffiti on many walls on our way in to the city.

We are staying in the San Marcos Parador - very nice accommodations, but we walked in to the older part of the city, and the vandalism and graffiti (much of it including swastikas and anti "juden" messages) were a shock to us.

In addition, on a late Sunday afternoon, the cathedral was closed (lots of scaffolding on the rooftop) with no indication if it will be open at any other time. No posted mass times ... we will check back tomorrow.

We have traveled many times in Europe (this is my second time to Spain) and are used to graffiti, but have never seen it like this - in the old historical part of a heritage city, covering the walls and even some of the monuments. And I haven't seen anti-semetic stuff like this tolerated anywhere.

We have prepaid two nights here at the Parador ... am regretting that we have another full day and night in Leon after what I have seen today. Please ... any Fodorites who have ideas for us to make us like Leon ... will you post here soon? We have a car and can make a day trip tomorrow ... or will be happy to know of somewhere in the city we can go.

Really, really sorry. I recently commented on another post on the graffitti subject. Here in Malaga is increasing ever more, authorities dont seem to care. Everything is covered with scribblings of all type, nazis and comies and anti-bologna and silly signatures. I wish they put an end to it soon. Wishful thinking, I fear.
I beg you to file a complaint at the local tourist office, you and everyone that read this.

SCdreamer so sad to hear this!
Try to enjoy what you can, I know it is like a blow. In my mind I always have a picture of the location despite my bet attempt not to sometimes it is dissappointing.
I know at home I am practically blind to grafitti I pass it on the freeways etc. But a visitor is sure to see all the graffiti near my home town too.

Sending good vibes & hoping you have a good meal & conversation there.

My wife saw anti-Jewish graffiti on her Camino walk last summer.

Hi Scdreamer,

So sorry your visit to Leon started like this! It is disapointing as well that the beautiful Cathedral is partly covered with scaffolding as that is the big attraction.

I just went to the website and it says that on Sundays the Cathedral is closed from 14:30-17:00. On weekdays the hours are 8:30-13:30 and 16:00-20:00.

Also worth visiting in town is the Colegiata de San Isidoro as well as the Royal Pantheon inside it.

If you want a nice dinner outside the Parador I recommend the Posada Regia. If you are around town around midnight check to see if they light up the cathedral from the inside so you can enjoy the beautiful stained glass that way.

Hope tomorrow Monday you have a better impression of the city. Too bad, it is one of my favorites.

I agree totally with Cruiseluv, it is also one of my favorite cities. THe Cathedral, and the Colegiata San Isidro will change your appreciation of Leon. Also food in the Posada Regia;s restaurant called Bodega Regia, I guess, is also very good.

I haven;t been in Leon for a few years, Graffiti was not an issue then. I am not surprised but sadden with the news.....it seems many things are going for the worst..in Leon, and....in many
places as well...it must be the globalization process...Buena Suerte

Scdreamer, So sorry to hear of your troubling experience. A few years back I took an Insight tour that started in Lisbon, through Oporto, up to Santiago (fabulous), long the Costa Verde, then to Bilbao, before Segovia and Madrid. One of our stops before Bilbao was to be Leon but the destination had been changed to Oviedo which I thought was a charming and thriving part of Asturias. Evidently folks on previous tours had nixed Leon as a desirable stop over. This is unfortunate considering the city’s rich history and it’s being a starting point for many travelers on the Camino. I recall this detail because one Canadian couple chose the tour because it had included a night in Leon where their grand-daughter was an exchange student. They left the group to visit Leon.

Unfortunately, Spain has been in an economic tailspin in the past few years. Its unemployment rate, especially among the young, is one of the highest in Europe. My impression from this trip, along with one to southern Spain during Holy Week in 2000, led me to believe that Spain was one of the cleanest countries in Europe. How regrettable that this anti-Semitic graffiti is marring this beautiful country.

Just look forward to your visit to Santiago de Compestela. It’s unforgettable.

Antisemitic is just one of the many types, and really scarce. They probably dont even know what's about.

I am writing this in response to Josele posting. His/her posting contains no malice whatsoever, but it does reflect another problem, denial and excuses.

I have been posting on Spain for over ten years on AOL and Fodor's and this the first time I have addressed the subject.

As a Jew I have visited Spain regularly since 1972 and have spent in cummulative time approximatley 10 months there, none as a student or on business. And we have been there 1n 1999, 2003, 2007, and 2008. My wife's father was born in Galicia, and we visit couiins fairly often.

I do not introduce myself as Jewish, nor do I hide it if asked, but Jews are curiosities in Spain. The articles below indicates that there are less than 20,000 Jews in a country that was once rich in Jewish culture and heritage. They were not recognized as citizens until 1978. On that rare occasion when a cousin mentions that I am Jewish, I am the first Jew that they have met. There is often surprise, curiousity, and an occasional flinch. It is ironic that someone as heretical as myself, becomes the embodiment of Judaism for these people.

All prejudice is due to ignorance of one sort or another, but to dismess it as mindless ignorance has been historically dangerous.

Below are few recent articles reagrding anti-semitism in
Spain. And let me add, I have never encountered anti-semitisms in Spain although as I mentioned above my wife and her sister who walked the 500 mile Camino last year were shocked to see anti-Jewish graffiti along the route. Nonetheless, I will continue to visit Spain without hesitation and have great affection for the country.

But it does exist.


http://www.european-forum-on-antisem...in-old-or-new/

http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/...ort_spain.html

http://aaronhanscom.blogspot.com/200...-semitism.html

I have yet to see any anti-semitism graffiti in Galicia, but that is not to say there is none. We do have a taggers all over the place, it has to be admitted. They are to be found the world over I think.
They also have a big problem in Rome too. Here is a bit from today's BBC.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/8180841.stm

Auduchamp 1, you dont know me enough as to accusing me of denial and excuses (though un-malicious).
I am not entering in the anti-semitsm issue, which is out of the purpose of this forum, so I am not answering anymore to this subject.

We have traveled many times in Europe (this is my second time to Spain) and are used to graffiti, but have never seen it like this>

do not go to Italy

We returned to the city center of Leon once again this morning, hoping to discard the negative view we had from last evening.

I reminded myself that it was Sunday yesterday, and I do know that in Spain many restaurants and shops are closed on Sunday evenings .... and we found that central Leon was much more welcoming today. Much of the trash we encountered had been cleaned up - of course the graffiti is still very disconcerting - but we were able to see the Pantheon, and at 4 p.m. the cathedral opened and we were duly impressed by the stained glass. It must be one of the finest cathedrals anywhere for its glass.

As far as the anti-semitism in Spain, I was not intending to open a discussion on that topic, but after what we saw yesterday, I had done an internet search and was surprised to discover that what Audochamp has written above is true. I was already aware of the history of the Jewish people in Spain (or perhaps I should say "not" in Spain) after 1492, but was unaware of the longstanding results of the inquisition. I am surprised.

So ... my impression of Leon is improved from that of my first evening here as far as the beauty of the cathedral and the surrounding areas. But I must admit, although I am not Jewish, I am looking at Spain with a different eye after reading about anti-semitism here.

And, Palenque ... I have been to Rome, stayed for a period of time about four years ago, so I do know the graffiti is there, but I don't recall seeing it in the center of the city in the historical areas. maybe it is different now, but in most cities in Europe I have observed that the graffiti is not tolerated in the older touristic areas.

Part of travel is to better understand the culture and history of a country, the good and the bad. The hotels, restaurants, and sites are just a part of it.

We have discussed bullfighting, illegal immigrants, crime in the cities, and whether it is appropriate to vist the Valley Of The Fallen because it was built priamrily with slave labor.

Adults should discuss issues, it is the job of the Chamber of Comemrce to gloss over them.

You are right Josele, I do not know you, I am merely responded to your words.