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Leaving for Paris on Friday

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Old May 27th, 2007, 08:46 AM
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Leaving for Paris on Friday

Hi, my two sisters and I are leaving Friday for an all-girls, once in a lifetime vacation to Paris. I cannot tell you how helpful this site has been. Believe I have read over 300 messages and feel it has given me a very realistic overview. We will be staying in a gorgeous apartment in Marais Village (see alacarte-paris-apartments.com). It's two bedroom, loads of space and much less expensive than a hotel when split three ways. We had to book last December and even then, there were other apartments that weren't available. Couple local questions:

1) what would be a good emergency back-up meeting place at CDG? We come in on different flights, and will have driver picking us up outside of customs (will have sign with our names). Just in case something goes wrong, we need a good place to meet at the airport.

2) since we're staying in the apartment, we will need to grocery shop. There are shops in the neighborhood, plus our own open market. Wanted some tips on "grocery" shopping and maybe some quick menu ideas.

3) I'm a big chardonnay drinker. Or other good white wines. Where are wines sold in France...I'm in CA and we can buy a good range of wines right in our grocery stores. Also, looking for recommendations for good white and red wines. Maybe around 10-20E's.

4) On the subject of wines, one sister is interested in taking a day trip to a wine region. Purpose would be to see the countryside, see a winery; maybe one in a large chateau. Any suggestions?

5) We should be at our apt around 12-1 pm. We're thinking of taking the batobus that afternoon to see some sites. Probably grab some groceries and eat dinner in our neighborhood. Guess this isn't really a question, just looking for feedback.

6) Next three days are where I may need some help with the closing of museums. I really want to go to the large flea market and since that's only going to be open Sun & Monday the option here is limited. But I really don't want to do this our first full day. What would be suggestion for a Sunday...we plan on doing all the basic tourist stuff. And we plan on getting the museum pass, but wonder if we should wait some days? We leave first thing Saturday morning (so Sat-Sat stay).

Well, these are my questions so far and I'd appreciate all those words of advice.
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Old May 27th, 2007, 09:00 AM
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Bon Voyage!

I can give you alittle advice. I would spend a time just walking around your neighborhood right away. Find your food shops, boulangeries, shops with newspapers, franprix or monoprix etc. Buy essentials (we ran out of toilet paper right away LOL.)

There are wines in all the little neighborhoods food shops. Nicholas has chain stores everywhere. I love the wine tote I bought there for 1E, my most used souvenir.

We enjoyed the meal that we purchased from Picard, a store with frozen foods of all kinds. Very fun.

And an aside fact you can only buy whole or half wheels of reblochon cheese. I don't know why, but I'm buying it my first day this time so I have enough time to finish it. Speaking of cheese when you purchase it from a store or at the market tell them when you plan to eat it, that will help the cheese monger pick the right one for you.

Cheers parisnewbie! Can't wait for your report and pics.
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Old May 27th, 2007, 11:42 AM
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parisnewbie,

I would recommend going to the flea market at Saint-Ouen on Sunday rather than Monday. Even though it is open, many of the stands are closed. It is a nice way to spend a Sunday.

The closings of museums should be listed on the little brochure that comes with your Carte Musées. You can buy it any time; it doesn't go into effect until the first time you use it.

Have a wonderful time.
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Old May 27th, 2007, 12:06 PM
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I have had fine luck simply buying local wines at any grocery or corner store. Buy a corkscrew and a few glasses upon arrival and set up a nice bar in your hotel room.
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Old May 27th, 2007, 01:40 PM
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I can help with a suggestion for your CDG meeting place, but would need to know which airlines/terminals you're flying into. In general terms, it would make sense to meet in the terminal where the person whose flight is scheduled to arrive the latest is supposed to arrive. Note that terminal 2 is really a series of sub-terminals, so you need to know whether the person is arriving in 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D etc. Each terminal (or sub-terminal in the case of 2A, 2B etc) has an information counter (with Paris airport welcome staff), so this would be a decent default choice (the welcome desk might not be large, but it will be marked on the maps). Terminal 1 has two desks, so if your meeting point is in T1, you'll need to specify info desk 1 or 2.

Grocery shopping tips: I agree that Picard is great for upscale frozen food and entress. In your regular grocery store, make sure you figure out whether or not the fruit/veg section is a "weigh it first" before taking it to check-out place, or a store where the check-out clerk weighs it for you. It's embarrassing to end up at the front of the line and learn that you should have weighed your veg and got a ticket for them first. (I couldn't figure out how to operate the former when I first moved to Paris, so I tend to rely on the latter type of store.)

French grocery stores have a limited selection of fresh milk (usually just whole milk and maybe skim - ecreme). If you want 2%, you'll have to buy the UHT stuff that sits on regular shelves, rather than in the dairy case. On the other hand, you'll be able to choose among approximately 30 different kinds of plain yogurt. And you'll wonder what why French people eat so much shredded carrot.

3) Take a field trip to Lavinia, a supermarket sized wine store on Blvd de la Madeleine in the 1st arr. It's open until 8 pm, at least on Thursday and Saturday. Marvel at the 40,000 euro bottles of wine in the special cellar and then stock up on their special less than 10 euro picks. Often on late Saturday afternoons, they have free tastings provided by vendors. Find out about the schedule online at www.lavinia.fr. In terms of varietals, if you like whites, you should explore Chablis (chardonnay grape), Sancerre (Sauvignon Blanc, my favourite), Pouilly Fume, Quincy (if you can find it - it's similar to Sancerre). I find that I rarely go wrong buying Sancerre or ordering it in a restaurant.

Since you're staying in the Marais and it's one of the few neighbourhoods that has a lot open on Sunday, save your exploration of that neighbourhood for your first Sunday afternoon. (On Saturday, head west or south instead). The Marais would be a great place to have brunch, do a little shopping and see an interesting museum or two (my favourite is the Musee Carnavalet, about the history of Paris).

A really fun day trip would be to go to Reims, one of the champagne region's capitals. You can do it in a long day via the train. You won't get to see much of the countryside on a day trip, but you can make appointments to tour the big champagne houses, which have quite splendid tours, and then taste their champagne. Reims also offers a nice Art Deco walking tour and an interesting bit of history. It's where the Germans surrendered in WWII, and the war room where this took place has been preserved as a museum.

If you'd prefer to see more of the countryside, it should be easy to book a tour of the Loire valley.
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Old May 27th, 2007, 02:00 PM
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Bonjour! Just got back from a girls once in a lifetime trip lastnight! We also stayed Sat to Sat. Can't help you with meeting place at CDG, we were not there long. Off plane, through check-in and downstairs to luggage right away. We opted for a taxi service to our apartment in the 5th, Latin Quarter, cost us e60, but worth it as we had packed way too much and did not want to deal with learning the trains and/or metro system out of the gate. When we first arrived on Sat., we walked around our neighborhood. There was a market on St. Germain that we checked out and settled into a cafe for awile. GET A CELL PHONE!!! Unless any of you speak french, GET A CELL PHONE!! Getting calls back to the US were quite a challenge for us until we got some help from locals and a calling card. Paris is definately somewhere you want to kick-it-up at night!! We actually spent our last night at a place called SOMO, 168 rue de Monmarte, 2nd arrondissement - DEFINATELY GO, VERY CHIC, VERY FUN. There was a band and dancing and people from all over, until about 6 am! (If you are into night life). Batobus is very nice and relaxing. There are small grocery stores everywhere, but they are not open that late, so buy the essentials when you first go out (we ran out of toilet paper right away too!. Batobus was very relaxing and a great way to see along the siene. Monmarte (10th) was great too, don't miss Sacre Coure (sp?) this area is full of great cafe's and artists. They will all want to do a portrait for you (everywhere for that matter). We had ours done by Vouc and Theodore by Cafe Eugene, they usually charge around 10 to 30 euros, you can bargain ofcourse. Enjoy your trip! Almost forgot, bring a small travel umbrella. Enjoy your trip!
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Old May 27th, 2007, 07:00 PM
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I think the suggestion above to get to know your immediate neighborhood right away, is an excellent one.
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Old May 27th, 2007, 10:37 PM
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Numerous wonderful food shops as well as a Franprix supermarket on rue St. Antoine close by Metro St. Paul, and at least one small wine shop, too.
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Old May 27th, 2007, 10:49 PM
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Nicholas, the chain, sells reliably drinkable wines, but independent wine shops are likely to provide more exciting ones, from smaller vintners, that Nichlas is simply too large to stock. (For an illustration of this constraint, look at Nicholas bottles; hardly anything under 20 euros has the vintner's name on the label. Lots produced by "cooperatives" or gathered and bottled by "negociants," or wholesalers) The little wine shop I'm recalling nearby the St. Paul Metro is an independent. I think there's a Nicholas there, too.
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Old May 28th, 2007, 12:04 AM
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OK going into lovey mode now

Darling you are in Paris - there is only one wine area to vist - champagne.

Re the grocery Shopping - make a list before you go of the first day essentials. For me this would be
Coffee
bread
cheese
pate
toilet roll
water - you can drink the tap water but like all city water it tastes like it's been recycled

You could also check with the rental company - do they do a "welcome pack" of groceries?

then ask your driver to take you to a small supermarket / grocers on your way to the appartment. You will also be able to pick up wine in the grocery shop.

A meeting place at CDG - well where is your driver meeting you? Meet somewhere near. Ask in the airport for the nearest cafe and have that as your meeting spot.
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Old May 28th, 2007, 12:53 AM
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Here is a quick menu idea. Although you are in Paris, make a simple Pomodoro sauce (olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, onions and basil), toss it with fresh pasta, add fresh bread from a local bakery and a good bottle of wine and you have a good and cheap meal.

Most of all, just enjoy your time in Paris. It is an amazing city and I can't wait for my second visit this November!

Tom
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Old May 28th, 2007, 02:55 AM
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No planning is required concerning groceries. Food items will practically throw themselves at you from Monoprix, Franprix, Picard and all of the various charcuteries, fromageries and street markets. On a Monday, you will normally have to stick to the supermarkets -- most of the other places will be closed.

Monoprix, Franprix and Nicolas all sell good wine. If you are thinking about American prices for a good wine when you say "around 10-20€," then you will probably be more than satisfied with wines that cost 5-6€ in a French supermarket. You should buy several bottles of wine in different categories to see which one you prefer; you will probably be surprised to find that it is not the most expensive one.

Even if you think you prefer white wine, give the red wine a chance. Feel free to chill any but the most expensive wines (I know that this is heresy to a lot of people.) -- once you pour the wine into a glass, it won't stay cool long anyway.
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Old May 28th, 2007, 03:21 AM
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Re: grocery shopping: I'm sure there are small groceries in your immediate neighborhgood, and I agree with previous postings in that regard (definitely get the lay of the land in your area - you will feel like a local in no time!), but I think the best place for grocery shopping is the food section at the Au Bon Marche department store in the 7th arrondissement - not that close to you, but amazing stuff, from fresh produce to perpared foods and on and on. Also a great place to pick up gifts for any foodies back home.

You can fit this shopping trip into a visit to the Musee d'Orsay or the Musee Rodin, both sort of nearby. A cool place for lunch in the area is L'Epi Dupin - call to reserve as it's tiny and very popular with the French. Great relation qualite/prix (or at least it was two years ago).

Bon voyage!

msm4
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Old May 28th, 2007, 04:43 AM
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Belaboring the point, the concentrated food shopping near rue Bourg Tilbourg, where the OP is staying, is 500 meters away on rue St Antoine. And with all due respect, I don't think it's very likely that a Californian who enjoys wine will find happiness on the shelves of the Franprix supermarket.
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Old May 28th, 2007, 05:04 AM
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Dave -- I suggest that you try a blind taste test some day. Don't forget that Franprix and Monoprix are both owned by Casino, which is renowned for the quality of its wine.

15 years ago when Franprix was owned by the American company Beatrice Foods, I might have agreed with you.
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Old May 28th, 2007, 05:10 AM
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Make that 17 years ago -- 1990 is when Beatrice Foods (US) went down the tubes and was chewed and spit out by ConAgra.
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Old May 28th, 2007, 09:10 AM
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Dana, Don't even get me started on the cheese. None of us will have a CLUE about cheeses. Maybe this deserves a post all in itself, lol.
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Old May 28th, 2007, 11:38 AM
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When we moved to Paris, I told our local cheese shop owner that I had relocated to Paris for a job, but my husband had moved here for the cheese. It seems like every week, there is something new and interesting to try, either at his shop or at the stand run by the "cheese girls" at our local market. The problem is, we sample something wonderful, take it home, enjoy it and then can't remember what it was. We were reduced, one evening at a wine/cheese event organised by my employer, to stealing the little flags (with the names of the cheeses) stuck into the cheeses we liked the best at the event. (Which reminds, I think that maybe I need to clean out my purse ...)
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Old May 28th, 2007, 02:11 PM
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I'm starting to realize that you can sample cheeses prior to purchase. Thanks for responses.
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Old May 28th, 2007, 10:05 PM
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Ah yes, samples. It's one time when the "eat before grocery shopping" rule doesn't apply.
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