JCBD

Three things before I get to the “meat". 1. Of most importance, many thanks to contributors to this Forum who were indispensable to our planning. 2. Note the date, this is embarrassingly late and things may have changed. 3. There is no intent to be negative. We loved Le Marche and will return in 2019. We decided the information about earthquake impact might be useful to others since we wish we had known all of it before we ventured.

This is based on our travels in Le Marche the first 2 weeks in May 2018. Perhaps of most use to those travelling soon, a quick overview of sites that have been impacted by the earthquake: 1. San Severino upper town Duomo and attached archeological museum closed (even tho the tourist office in lower town said the museum was open.); 2. Matelica Piersanti civic museum – only the first floor is open which means the pre-Roman astrolab cannot be viewed. Altho repairs are on-going, all that could be seen in May is religious art and a few period costumes; 3. Of the sites we (tried to) visited, Camerino was the most impacted. We parked as far up as close to the hill-top old town and started walking up and instantly realized that something was “off.” There were no people in the streets and no shops were open. Soon almost every building was braced with wood or steel beams. As we approached the main piazza of old town, we saw the “red zone” fence and the garda positioned to make sure no one entered. The old upper town of Camerino is dead, desolate and depressing. Restoration is likely prohibitively expensive – so sad; 4. Pallotta Castle in Caldarola – fortunately we discovered it was closed by the earthquake before we left for Italy; 5. Really wanted to visit Fiastra Abbey and its museums, but also discovered that it was closed before we left; 6. San Vittoro – 9th C church in park between Acqualagna and Furlo. Earthquake may get a bit of blame, but the park is now marked “Private Property” and “No Picnics.” So we walked down the road to the left of the park to discover that the church is being renovated. Workmen would not allow entry – sensible since they were working on scaffolding above. Then a rather obnoxious man appeared from the house on the other side of the road and said he was going to call the police because we were on private property. So we turned and walked back the road to the large and lovely ancient church and adjoining abbey of San Vicenzo al Furlo which was wide open. Just wish there were descriptive material on it. When we left we looked back at San Vittorio to see that a very impressive 8’ metal gate had been closed; 7. Gola del Infernaccio – in May, closed and/or very difficult trek from earthquake.

Now to an itinerary-based commentary on many pros and a small number of cons:
Ascoli Piceno: Accommodation- Antico Borgo Piceno. Loved the suite with a double, single beds, ac, kitchen, and balcony with view over river, the Roman bridge and across it to old town. Very good breakfast served on patio with same view. Dinner: Il Desco was not only our best in Ascoli but of the whole trip – superb. To Do: 1. Offida – a. Magnificent ancient Santa Maria church on a promontory with exquisite wall paintings, b.on lovely square an old and active Serpente Aureo theater which allows entry, c. Lace museum. 2. Walking tour of Ascoli – many interesting sites. 3. Civitella del Tronto – fascinating fortress and cliff town.

San Severino Marche: Accommodation – Palazzo Gentili apartment – lovely and very comfortable. Dinner: Ristorantes de Piero and Cavellini – both excellent. To Do: several sites closed – see 1st paragraph. 1. Frasassi Caves – amazing and we almost didn’t go. Very good English tour; 2. Fabriano – excellent English tour of interesting and educational paper museum, 3. Pioraco – Roman bridge and prolaqueum. 4. Gubbio – fun bucket trip up the mountain, old hill town and ceramics shop.

Urbino: Accommodation – Hotel Bonconte – excellent, quiet, short walk to old town. Dinners: all fine – we did not have a bad meal in Le Marche. To Do: 1. Ducal Palace - fascinating in itself and paintings and exhibits surrounding Piero della Francesco’s Flagellation and Raphael’s La Muta alone are worth the price of admission, 2. Raphael’s house, 3. Mondavio – lovely town, fortress closed – probably because was Sunday, 4. Corinaldo – also lovely. 5. Pergola – Museo dei Bronzi (should have allowed more time for the town.), 6. Acqualagna – pretty square, great truffle shop, 7. Gola di Furlo – dramatic views and open the whole way, 7. Urbania – ducal palace.

Happy to try to answer any questions and again, thanks to all of you, especially bvlenci, who contributed to what was a wonderful trip. We intend to go back, especially after reading the recent Wall Street Journal article on the trabocchi restaurants in Abruzzo. One of the motivators for the May trip, our first to Le Marche, was dining in a Fabio Trabocchi restaurant in Washington, DC and reading his book which is part cook book and part reminisces of growing up in Le Marche.

Any information about reopening of above sites closed by earthquake would be much appreciated.