Las Fallas and beyond: Nikki's trip to Valencia and Lisbon
Apr 1st, 2019, 12:49 PM
#21
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Thanks, Nikki! I've done some reading since posting my questions to you and it definitely sounds doable--in terms of finding some peace away from the action when we needed a break. I'm definitely going to keep it in mind, especially since it would be easy to pair with Madrid, where we wanted to spend more time.
I look forward to the rest of your report. Thank you for sharing!
I look forward to the rest of your report. Thank you for sharing!
Apr 1st, 2019, 01:07 PM
#22
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indyhiker, we booked an AirBnB out of the center of the city. Here is the link - https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/2725241...sts=1&adults=1 . It was pretty nice though no towel racks in the bathroom. It was as quiet as it can be during Las Fallas because everyone is throwing fire crackers all day and night. We were luck to be able to see the fireworks that were shot off at the Paseo de la alameda from our deck.
Last edited by AGM_Cape_Cod; Apr 1st, 2019 at 01:10 PM.
Apr 1st, 2019, 01:37 PM
#23
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I didn't realize the fallas are stationary. I thought they were on moving floats. Anyways, they are unique and amazing! And I love the costumes of the women who are in the parade. They are gorgeous!
Apr 1st, 2019, 02:30 PM
#24
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Monday morning we set out to visit the silk museum. Silk trading and manufacture have a long history in Valencia. We pass several fabric shops along our route which testify to the importance of silk in Valencia today. There are window displays showing fallera outfits and their various components.
We also pass more fallas to be enjoyed even if not understood.
The silk museum is located in a Gothic and Baroque style building that housed the velvet weavers guild and college. It was restored in 2016 with spectacular ceramic tile floors and ceiling frescoes. Visitors wear coverings over their shoes to protect the floors. We have free admission with our tickets from the San Nicolas Church, and this includes an informative audio guide. There is a room with a working loom, although when we arrive there it appears we have just missed a demonstration. There is a very nice gift shop. While I have not bought myself a fallera outfit or its makings from the fabric shops we have passed, I do give into temptation here and buy myself a silk scarf.
After we visit the museum, I find a bench outside in the sun and Alan joins those who are packed into the plaza for the mascleta. When the noise is over and the crowds have dispersed, we find a cafe where we sit outside and have sandwiches.
Strolling back toward the hotel, we pass more fallas and then encounter the route of today’s ofrenda procession.
We also pass more fallas to be enjoyed even if not understood.
The silk museum is located in a Gothic and Baroque style building that housed the velvet weavers guild and college. It was restored in 2016 with spectacular ceramic tile floors and ceiling frescoes. Visitors wear coverings over their shoes to protect the floors. We have free admission with our tickets from the San Nicolas Church, and this includes an informative audio guide. There is a room with a working loom, although when we arrive there it appears we have just missed a demonstration. There is a very nice gift shop. While I have not bought myself a fallera outfit or its makings from the fabric shops we have passed, I do give into temptation here and buy myself a silk scarf.
After we visit the museum, I find a bench outside in the sun and Alan joins those who are packed into the plaza for the mascleta. When the noise is over and the crowds have dispersed, we find a cafe where we sit outside and have sandwiches.
Strolling back toward the hotel, we pass more fallas and then encounter the route of today’s ofrenda procession.
Apr 1st, 2019, 04:07 PM
#26
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Thanks, AGM. I appreciate the link. I spent some time this afternoon trying to get a feel for the various neighborhoods and wondered whether any of them would be quieter than others. I read a thread on another forum where someone suggested staying at a nearby town (but didn’t suggest any by name) and just using the metro to travel to/from Valencia. While I dislike a lot of noise at night, I also don’t like the idea of having to commute.
Oh well. I have plenty of time to ponder, but it looks lik so much fun!
Great photos, Nikki!!
Oh well. I have plenty of time to ponder, but it looks lik so much fun!
Great photos, Nikki!!
Apr 1st, 2019, 04:48 PM
#28
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This evening we are having a farewell dinner with the whole group at a restaurant with less traditional food than the others we have visited, Canalla Bistro. We assemble at the hotel bar and walk to the restaurant, arriving a little before they are ready to open. This is not in the central part of the old city but not too far from the hotel. We pass more fallas on the way. Each street is lighted with the name of its falla and there are people celebrating everywhere.
When the restaurant opens, they show us to a long table at the rear. Then they start bringing many dishes: salmon and avocado crunchy cones with wasabi guacamole, Russian-Thai style salad with mango, peanuts and fresh herbs, eggplant hot chili garlic with yogurt, bonito tartar and avocado cannelloni with pico de gallo, spicy vegetable tempura, Vietnamese Saam with karaage chicken and yuzu-ponzu (no, I don’t have any idea, I’m just copying from the menu), steamed bun with Beijing pork, hazelnut praline wih chocolate iced sandwich, and caramelized Torrija with ice cream.
We try to take a taxi back to the hotel but the street is closed again, so we walk the final couple of blocks. Alan goes out to see the fireworks (which are at 1:30 tonight!) while I stay in the room and watch more of the festivities on television. I do catch the fireworks over the buildings through the window again though, so it is another very late night for both of us.
When the restaurant opens, they show us to a long table at the rear. Then they start bringing many dishes: salmon and avocado crunchy cones with wasabi guacamole, Russian-Thai style salad with mango, peanuts and fresh herbs, eggplant hot chili garlic with yogurt, bonito tartar and avocado cannelloni with pico de gallo, spicy vegetable tempura, Vietnamese Saam with karaage chicken and yuzu-ponzu (no, I don’t have any idea, I’m just copying from the menu), steamed bun with Beijing pork, hazelnut praline wih chocolate iced sandwich, and caramelized Torrija with ice cream.
We try to take a taxi back to the hotel but the street is closed again, so we walk the final couple of blocks. Alan goes out to see the fireworks (which are at 1:30 tonight!) while I stay in the room and watch more of the festivities on television. I do catch the fireworks over the buildings through the window again though, so it is another very late night for both of us.
Apr 2nd, 2019, 04:48 AM
#30
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Tuesday is a blur until the fire parade. I think all those late nights are catching up with me. Tonight is la crema, the burning of all the fallas, starting around 10:00 PM. Before this, however, is the fire parade, which passes right in front of our hotel. We press in with the crowd to see the dancing demons with giant sparklers, fire breathing dragons, fire breathing turtles, and all manner of fire and spark creating machinery.
Instead of the cheerful marching music of the ofrenda, there are bands playing more sinister tunes.
When the parade has ended, we find a restaurant, Taberna de la Reina, and have a last dinner of charcuterie, fried chipirones (baby squid), and paella. Then I return to the hotel while Alan goes wandering in hopes he will be able to see some of the fallas burned down. Alas, the late nights are catching up with him too, and he is not able to stay awake long enough to see any of the big ones. He does catch a glimpse from a distance of one of the fires before coming back to the hotel and conking out.
I manage to watch quite a bit of it on the television as the firefighting crews maneuver around the city supervising one after another of these fires, many of which are accompanied by fireworks which I can both see and hear all around me from the hotel. The bands play mournful tunes as the fires are set, and once again there are young falleras in tears, watching the symbols of this festive week go up in flames.
Wednesday morning it is all over. There is no sign of the festival visible on the street. Cleanup crews have been active all week, moving in after every event to sweep up the copious, actually rather alarming amounts of trash. You would never know anything unusual had happened, all streets and businesses are open.
We take a taxi to the airport and fly on to Lisbon.
Instead of the cheerful marching music of the ofrenda, there are bands playing more sinister tunes.
When the parade has ended, we find a restaurant, Taberna de la Reina, and have a last dinner of charcuterie, fried chipirones (baby squid), and paella. Then I return to the hotel while Alan goes wandering in hopes he will be able to see some of the fallas burned down. Alas, the late nights are catching up with him too, and he is not able to stay awake long enough to see any of the big ones. He does catch a glimpse from a distance of one of the fires before coming back to the hotel and conking out.
I manage to watch quite a bit of it on the television as the firefighting crews maneuver around the city supervising one after another of these fires, many of which are accompanied by fireworks which I can both see and hear all around me from the hotel. The bands play mournful tunes as the fires are set, and once again there are young falleras in tears, watching the symbols of this festive week go up in flames.
Wednesday morning it is all over. There is no sign of the festival visible on the street. Cleanup crews have been active all week, moving in after every event to sweep up the copious, actually rather alarming amounts of trash. You would never know anything unusual had happened, all streets and businesses are open.
We take a taxi to the airport and fly on to Lisbon.
Apr 2nd, 2019, 08:17 AM
#34
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Thanks Nikki, I enjoyed reading this almost as much as I enjoyed being there!
I didn't stay for the burnings in 2016, or this year, and after reading your description I think that was the best choice for me. I'd rather remember the joy and excitement.
I didn't stay for the burnings in 2016, or this year, and after reading your description I think that was the best choice for me. I'd rather remember the joy and excitement.
Apr 2nd, 2019, 12:11 PM
#37
Original Poster
Thank you for all the continuing encouragement. I hope to finish up with Lisbon before I leave for California on Friday.
Jackie, I took some of the photos with my iPhone 6 but most are with my Olympus OMD EM-10 Mark II mirrorless camera. I like it a lot because it is small and light enough to fit in my purse but has interchangeable lenses like a digital SLR.
Jackie, I took some of the photos with my iPhone 6 but most are with my Olympus OMD EM-10 Mark II mirrorless camera. I like it a lot because it is small and light enough to fit in my purse but has interchangeable lenses like a digital SLR.
Apr 2nd, 2019, 01:04 PM
#38
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Looking forward to your Lisbon report and photos. Was this your first trip to Lisbon? We were there in April 2018 and fell in love with Lisbon. I enjoy reading about what other travelers do in places I've visited, and what their impressions are.
Thank you for taking the time to write your report and include photos.
Thank you for taking the time to write your report and include photos.
Apr 2nd, 2019, 06:09 PM
#39
This is a wonderful report Nikki. I've enjoyed your pictures, and the way you explain things. This would have been a great GTG to go to, the weather looks really nice too, light jacket weather- perfect.
I'm ready for your Lisbon report!! I was there in January and fell in love with Portugal.
I'm ready for your Lisbon report!! I was there in January and fell in love with Portugal.
Apr 3rd, 2019, 12:25 AM
#40
Original Poster
I have been to Lisbon three times and Alan has been twice, but the last time was ten years ago. I am insanely happy to be here, as I have wonderful memories of the city. Lisbon is extremely hilly, somewhat reminiscent of San Francisco. There is a flat area however, the Baixa, and I have chosen an apartment here as I have trouble walking on hills.
Buildings in this neighborhood date from a reconstruction program after the 1755 earthquake, and the entire area was laid out in the form of a grid, with a street for each profession. We are staying on the Rua Aurea, the goldworkers’ street. Many of the streets retain small shops from the original plan. The shoemakers’ street, Rua dos Sapateiros, still has shoe stores. The street around the corner from us, Rua da Conceicao, has several stores selling buttons and notions for sewing. I read that these small shops are able to continue in this location through a rent control program.
We have rented an apartment in a building that, like many in the area, has been recently converted into tourist apartments. Called Residentas Aurea, it is newly opened. We leave our bags here because our apartment is not ready, and we head out for lunch. The greeter at the apartment has recommended a restaurant nearby, on the large Praca do Comercio, on the waterfront.
We have a seat on the outdoor terrace at RIB-Beef and Wine. It is sunny and beautifully warm, and I feel exhilarated to be here. We have a lovely, if somewhat expensive lunch, featuring appetizers of beef tongue, prawns and clams on soft polenta and oxtail gyozas with lime and soy sauce. Then I have a steak, which comes with several types of salt and a selection of different sauces, to which I add a luxurious topper of foie gras. While this is all delicious, I give my vote to Alan’s order of ox cheek, which is meltingly wonderful.
We spend a while out in the plaza after lunch. When we were last in Lisbon, there was construction going on here. The former design had closed the plaza off from the riverfront, and it appeared that the construction was going to open up the view from the plaza over the water. Indeed this has been done, and there is a lovely open feel to the area. It is clear that tourism has exploded in the ten years since our last visit. We see many more tourists than I remember, some of this attributable to cruise ships.
Returning to the building, we find our apartment is ready, and we settle in. I have notes with several ideas about places to go for dinner, but lunch was such a large and late meal that we stay home for the evening, Alan goes to the nearby grocery for some supplies, and we just have a small snack later on.
Buildings in this neighborhood date from a reconstruction program after the 1755 earthquake, and the entire area was laid out in the form of a grid, with a street for each profession. We are staying on the Rua Aurea, the goldworkers’ street. Many of the streets retain small shops from the original plan. The shoemakers’ street, Rua dos Sapateiros, still has shoe stores. The street around the corner from us, Rua da Conceicao, has several stores selling buttons and notions for sewing. I read that these small shops are able to continue in this location through a rent control program.
We have rented an apartment in a building that, like many in the area, has been recently converted into tourist apartments. Called Residentas Aurea, it is newly opened. We leave our bags here because our apartment is not ready, and we head out for lunch. The greeter at the apartment has recommended a restaurant nearby, on the large Praca do Comercio, on the waterfront.
We have a seat on the outdoor terrace at RIB-Beef and Wine. It is sunny and beautifully warm, and I feel exhilarated to be here. We have a lovely, if somewhat expensive lunch, featuring appetizers of beef tongue, prawns and clams on soft polenta and oxtail gyozas with lime and soy sauce. Then I have a steak, which comes with several types of salt and a selection of different sauces, to which I add a luxurious topper of foie gras. While this is all delicious, I give my vote to Alan’s order of ox cheek, which is meltingly wonderful.
We spend a while out in the plaza after lunch. When we were last in Lisbon, there was construction going on here. The former design had closed the plaza off from the riverfront, and it appeared that the construction was going to open up the view from the plaza over the water. Indeed this has been done, and there is a lovely open feel to the area. It is clear that tourism has exploded in the ten years since our last visit. We see many more tourists than I remember, some of this attributable to cruise ships.
Returning to the building, we find our apartment is ready, and we settle in. I have notes with several ideas about places to go for dinner, but lunch was such a large and late meal that we stay home for the evening, Alan goes to the nearby grocery for some supplies, and we just have a small snack later on.
