Kristina's Big Fat Fortieth in France 2008 -A week in Paris and the Dordogne Trip Report
Nov 9th, 2008, 03:53 PM
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Kristina, I attempted to do that but it seemed like it was showing all my albums but maybe not. Also, the link was really long and I don't know how to do those tiny urls. If you would like to email me, I could email the picture to you. My email address is:
LHefty @ aol.com (without the spaces obviously).
LHefty @ aol.com (without the spaces obviously).
Nov 10th, 2008, 09:31 AM
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Okay, I think I figured it out. Here's a picture of one of the order takers from L'As du Fallafel:
http://tinyurl.com/5h59kr
http://tinyurl.com/5h59kr
Nov 11th, 2008, 11:16 AM
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Louisa-thanks for posting that photo!
<b>Paris Day 8
October 11, 2008</b>
This morning we get a late start, but the goal is to head up to Montmartre. We take the metro to the Anvers station and walk up the uber-touristy street which leads to the Place Sainte-Pierre at the base of the Basilica Sacre-Coeur. Rather than taking the little tram, we walk up and up and up the steps to the church. Along the way, we can see they are setting up fireworks for the annual food and wine festival tonight.
When we get to the top, the view is enshrouded in clouds. There are already dozens of tents set up for the festival all around the perimeter of the church. There are wineries, bakeries and all manner of food vendors selling tastes. A foie gras sandwich can be had for 7 euro. There's a vendor selling raclette, another with a 6 foot wide pan filled with sausages and onions, and another selling oysters and wine together. But it is too early in the morning for me for wine and the foie gras or sausages just sound too heavy so we opt for a simple baguette with some tasty salami instead.
It's already very crowded here and we try to get inside the church for a look around, thinking it might be a respite from the hoards. It is not. The Basilica is full of people moving at a snail's pace in a clockwise motion around the church, snapping photos inside even though there are signs asking people not to. This is a pet peeve of mine. I want to take photos too, but I follow the rules. Why can't they?
We walk back down to the base of Montmartre where the carousel is and there are half a dozen young African men accosting tourists wanting to tie string bracelets on their wrists. They will then ask you for money, even though they say the bracelets are "for friendship". It never ceases to amaze me how many people fall for this and then stand there and argue with these guys. People really need to learn how to forcefully say no and walk away.
<b>Paris Day 8
October 11, 2008</b>
This morning we get a late start, but the goal is to head up to Montmartre. We take the metro to the Anvers station and walk up the uber-touristy street which leads to the Place Sainte-Pierre at the base of the Basilica Sacre-Coeur. Rather than taking the little tram, we walk up and up and up the steps to the church. Along the way, we can see they are setting up fireworks for the annual food and wine festival tonight.
When we get to the top, the view is enshrouded in clouds. There are already dozens of tents set up for the festival all around the perimeter of the church. There are wineries, bakeries and all manner of food vendors selling tastes. A foie gras sandwich can be had for 7 euro. There's a vendor selling raclette, another with a 6 foot wide pan filled with sausages and onions, and another selling oysters and wine together. But it is too early in the morning for me for wine and the foie gras or sausages just sound too heavy so we opt for a simple baguette with some tasty salami instead.
It's already very crowded here and we try to get inside the church for a look around, thinking it might be a respite from the hoards. It is not. The Basilica is full of people moving at a snail's pace in a clockwise motion around the church, snapping photos inside even though there are signs asking people not to. This is a pet peeve of mine. I want to take photos too, but I follow the rules. Why can't they?
We walk back down to the base of Montmartre where the carousel is and there are half a dozen young African men accosting tourists wanting to tie string bracelets on their wrists. They will then ask you for money, even though they say the bracelets are "for friendship". It never ceases to amaze me how many people fall for this and then stand there and argue with these guys. People really need to learn how to forcefully say no and walk away.
Nov 11th, 2008, 02:16 PM
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We decide to walk a bit down Boulevard de Rochechouart and check out all the Tati discount stores. We buy nothing and get on the metro at Barbes-Rocheechouart and go back to the 4th. We spend a little time looking for a cafe I have on my list, but aren't impressed with the menu once we find it. Instead, we settle for a seat at an outdoor cafe near the Hotel du Ville and have a mediocre lunch of goat cheese salad, omelette and a carafe of wine (26 euros). It feels nice to sit outside in the sun though so it may have been worth it.
After lunch we walk over to the Paris Photography museum (5, Rue de Fourcy, 75004 metro St. Paul or Pont Marie) http://www.mep-fr.org/us/default_test_ok.htm . This is a small museum located in an old mansion with exhibit rooms on 4 floors. It's very interesting and there is both a small permanent collection, and a larger series of temporary ones. There was one about shoe fetishism and a rather disturbing one with photos of people with raw meat in a room in the basement when we were there. Still, it's worth a trip if you are into Photography.
After the museum we wander the Ille St. Louis for a while and stop for a Bertillion ice cream cone. Honestly, I am not impressed with my Salted Butter Caramel; the scoop is miniscule for 2 euro and it's just not as fantastic as everyone says it should be. We walk back to the hotel to have a rest and stop in a tiny church which I think may be Saint Gervais (from looking at my map).
After lunch we walk over to the Paris Photography museum (5, Rue de Fourcy, 75004 metro St. Paul or Pont Marie) http://www.mep-fr.org/us/default_test_ok.htm . This is a small museum located in an old mansion with exhibit rooms on 4 floors. It's very interesting and there is both a small permanent collection, and a larger series of temporary ones. There was one about shoe fetishism and a rather disturbing one with photos of people with raw meat in a room in the basement when we were there. Still, it's worth a trip if you are into Photography.
After the museum we wander the Ille St. Louis for a while and stop for a Bertillion ice cream cone. Honestly, I am not impressed with my Salted Butter Caramel; the scoop is miniscule for 2 euro and it's just not as fantastic as everyone says it should be. We walk back to the hotel to have a rest and stop in a tiny church which I think may be Saint Gervais (from looking at my map).
Nov 11th, 2008, 03:02 PM
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Kristina, thanks for continuing to take us along on your wonderful journey. What is the annual food and wine festival at Montmartre?
I couldn't resist taking the picture of the guy at L'As du Fallafel. I thought he was adorable.
I couldn't resist taking the picture of the guy at L'As du Fallafel. I thought he was adorable.
Nov 11th, 2008, 03:44 PM
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Yes, I meant to put a link for the festival, it's on my "tidbits" page.
http://www.fetedesvendangesdemontmartre.com/
The bottom of this page has a translation in English.
http://www.fetedesvendangesdemontmartre.com/
The bottom of this page has a translation in English.
Nov 11th, 2008, 04:20 PM
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Hello Kristina,
Just finished reading about your wonderful trip. I'm thrilled someone else experienced the festival at Monmartre because I was there on October 11th as well! This is the 2nd time I've been lucky to see it while in Paris (it tends to take place the 2nd weekend in October). I laughed when you mentioned the oysters! Did you see all the people standing around eating them? They couldn't shuck them fast enough! It was a bit early for me for oysters, but not everything else - including wine!
A note to LouisaH - it remains one of the best parts of my trip! We arrived at Sacre Couer early AND hungry because we know there are dozens of tents set up with delicious foods & wines.
Sitting on the church steps with sandwiches, fresh olives, desserts & drinking wine, gazing at that view...it's so simple but nothing beats it.
-Roberta
Just finished reading about your wonderful trip. I'm thrilled someone else experienced the festival at Monmartre because I was there on October 11th as well! This is the 2nd time I've been lucky to see it while in Paris (it tends to take place the 2nd weekend in October). I laughed when you mentioned the oysters! Did you see all the people standing around eating them? They couldn't shuck them fast enough! It was a bit early for me for oysters, but not everything else - including wine!
A note to LouisaH - it remains one of the best parts of my trip! We arrived at Sacre Couer early AND hungry because we know there are dozens of tents set up with delicious foods & wines.
Sitting on the church steps with sandwiches, fresh olives, desserts & drinking wine, gazing at that view...it's so simple but nothing beats it.
-Roberta
Nov 11th, 2008, 04:44 PM
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Roberta, I wish I'd had more of an appetite. If I'd known what I know now, I would have gone a little later in the day. Or rather, we should have just set out with the intent of making that "lunch".
I got a photo of the guy shucking oysters and I'll make sure to put it on my site when I post that page! Usually I love oysters, but the last two times I was in Paris, I got sick after eating them. So, I don't know if it's a coincidence, but I'm a little gun-shy about eating them there now. Maybe next time...
I got a photo of the guy shucking oysters and I'll make sure to put it on my site when I post that page! Usually I love oysters, but the last two times I was in Paris, I got sick after eating them. So, I don't know if it's a coincidence, but I'm a little gun-shy about eating them there now. Maybe next time...
Nov 11th, 2008, 05:17 PM
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I ate oysters quite a bit during this trip, usually for an appetizer at dinner. That's probably why they didn't appeal to me late morning at the festival. But that didn't stop others! I was reluctant to eat them again, especially at that hour (didn't want to press my luck) so I just stuck to the basics. Funny, the wine they were serving so early in the day didn't bother me a bit.
The first time I went to Paris was a few years ago in the summer, to celebrate my 40th and the same for my friend. We've been back two more times since, in October, and my friend has been waking up in Paris for her birthdays. My sister (no longer forty) comes to celebrate as well. Isn't it great? Happy belated birthday Kristina.
-Roberta
The first time I went to Paris was a few years ago in the summer, to celebrate my 40th and the same for my friend. We've been back two more times since, in October, and my friend has been waking up in Paris for her birthdays. My sister (no longer forty) comes to celebrate as well. Isn't it great? Happy belated birthday Kristina.
-Roberta
Nov 11th, 2008, 07:37 PM
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Kristina,
Thanks for putting up the list for the annual food & wine festival at Montmarte, but I can't figure out the english translation.
Did you get to try other ice cream places besides Berthillion? I can't remember there names, but it seems like many people are saying these new places are much better than Berthillion. When we went, we really did like some of the flavors we found at Berthillion, but the scoop size was quite small. Wow - totally forgot they were 2 euros a scoop...it must have been that whole, "Oh, we're in Paris - who cares how much ice cream is!" attitude that makes you think money used on trips is somehow of different value!
My sister's new thing is trying salted caramel ice cream, and she really wanted to try Berthillion's one day - was it too sweet? Or was it just...blah?
Thanks for putting up the list for the annual food & wine festival at Montmarte, but I can't figure out the english translation.
Did you get to try other ice cream places besides Berthillion? I can't remember there names, but it seems like many people are saying these new places are much better than Berthillion. When we went, we really did like some of the flavors we found at Berthillion, but the scoop size was quite small. Wow - totally forgot they were 2 euros a scoop...it must have been that whole, "Oh, we're in Paris - who cares how much ice cream is!" attitude that makes you think money used on trips is somehow of different value!
My sister's new thing is trying salted caramel ice cream, and she really wanted to try Berthillion's one day - was it too sweet? Or was it just...blah?
Nov 11th, 2008, 08:09 PM
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Anna, I don't think there really is an English translation at the bottom of the page, but it doesn't matter. The basic gist is that this is a wine and food event, as well as a cultural and arts event. Bottom line-eat, drink,and be merry as I hope to do again next year.
Oh, and I love oysters and wine. I think I will try Amorino instead of Bertillion, although on my last trip I tried neither.
Kristina, thank you for your continual posts and insights, and Roberta, thanks for your helpful comments.
Oh, and I love oysters and wine. I think I will try Amorino instead of Bertillion, although on my last trip I tried neither.
Kristina, thank you for your continual posts and insights, and Roberta, thanks for your helpful comments.
Nov 11th, 2008, 08:27 PM
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Yikes! Sorry about that link. I just looked at it. I copied it off my own web page, and when I originally posted it, it was different! And at the time, there was English at the bottom of the page. Oh well, sorry about that! But basically, what Roberta said was right, the festival is every year, usually the 2nd weekend of October.
Anna-Yes, there was more ice cream, that same night as a matter of fact. But now I get ahead of myself.
I am a HUGE fan of salted butter caramel ice cream after making it at home for last July 4th. It was SO GOOD I had to make a 2nd batch so I wouldn't have to give it all to my guests!
I got the recipe at http://www.davidlebovitz.com/index.html. He's a US expat pastry chef living in Paris and he wrote a book about ice cream. He also recommended the 2nd place we tried that day, but you're going to have to wait for that one.
As for Bertillion, it just wasn't "great". Could not taste the salt, portion was way, way too small. Don't know what else to say except "over-rated".
Anna-Yes, there was more ice cream, that same night as a matter of fact. But now I get ahead of myself.
I am a HUGE fan of salted butter caramel ice cream after making it at home for last July 4th. It was SO GOOD I had to make a 2nd batch so I wouldn't have to give it all to my guests!
I got the recipe at http://www.davidlebovitz.com/index.html. He's a US expat pastry chef living in Paris and he wrote a book about ice cream. He also recommended the 2nd place we tried that day, but you're going to have to wait for that one.
As for Bertillion, it just wasn't "great". Could not taste the salt, portion was way, way too small. Don't know what else to say except "over-rated".
Nov 13th, 2008, 05:17 PM
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Kristina,
An ice cream cliffhanger
But, I'll try to be patient. My sister has been going to different food blogs for about a year now, and I've been to Dave Lebovitz's site before - I really like his site and all his insights into living in Paris. I'll let my sister know his recipe for salted butter caramel was good.
Did you have other flavors at Berthillion? We got to try a bunch of them over our week there, and my two favorite were the blood orange and a chocolate ice cream with bits of orange zest in it(can't remember the name). I'm hoping you give a detailed report of your next ice cream place, including portion size
Do you have any tips with traveling with family? I remember on your Italy trip you had rules everyone followed when traveling with friends - did you make different ones for traveling with family, especially parents?
DS and I traveled with our friend last year to Europe, but never with our parents. It's not definite, but DS and I may eventually get to Europe with our parents. I'm really interested in finding out things you would either change or stick to when traveling with family.
An ice cream cliffhanger
But, I'll try to be patient. My sister has been going to different food blogs for about a year now, and I've been to Dave Lebovitz's site before - I really like his site and all his insights into living in Paris. I'll let my sister know his recipe for salted butter caramel was good.Did you have other flavors at Berthillion? We got to try a bunch of them over our week there, and my two favorite were the blood orange and a chocolate ice cream with bits of orange zest in it(can't remember the name). I'm hoping you give a detailed report of your next ice cream place, including portion size
Do you have any tips with traveling with family? I remember on your Italy trip you had rules everyone followed when traveling with friends - did you make different ones for traveling with family, especially parents?
DS and I traveled with our friend last year to Europe, but never with our parents. It's not definite, but DS and I may eventually get to Europe with our parents. I'm really interested in finding out things you would either change or stick to when traveling with family.
Nov 13th, 2008, 07:07 PM
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Sorry I haven't finished my writing, but I've been very busy with work. I promise to get more done this weekend.
Anna, no I did not try anything else at Bertillion. I can't remember what flavor my mom had either.
As for traveling with family, I think the same general rules apply.
My 5 Golden Rules are here:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/GoldenRulesfortravel.html
I've only really traveled with my Mom (in terms of "family"
so I really can't speak to anything else. I DO think it is important to choose your travel companions wisely, be it family or friends. I have some friends I love dearly but would not travel with and I think the same goes for family. Regardless, if they are people with whom you have not traveled before, it's important to have several discussions before the trip to get all the expectations out in the open (money issues, travel styles, sightseeing goals, etc). I would not travel with anyone who was not willing to discuss the details first.
cigalechanta- I think I'd have to agree with you. In general, Paris is not an ice cream "Mecca". Rome, well, that's another story. There is something about Gelato <i>in Italy</i> which is almost impossible to duplicate <i>outside Italy</i>.
Anna, no I did not try anything else at Bertillion. I can't remember what flavor my mom had either.
As for traveling with family, I think the same general rules apply.
My 5 Golden Rules are here:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/GoldenRulesfortravel.html
I've only really traveled with my Mom (in terms of "family"
so I really can't speak to anything else. I DO think it is important to choose your travel companions wisely, be it family or friends. I have some friends I love dearly but would not travel with and I think the same goes for family. Regardless, if they are people with whom you have not traveled before, it's important to have several discussions before the trip to get all the expectations out in the open (money issues, travel styles, sightseeing goals, etc). I would not travel with anyone who was not willing to discuss the details first.cigalechanta- I think I'd have to agree with you. In general, Paris is not an ice cream "Mecca". Rome, well, that's another story. There is something about Gelato <i>in Italy</i> which is almost impossible to duplicate <i>outside Italy</i>.
Nov 13th, 2008, 10:29 PM
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Hi, Kristina,
this is a great report. You took a lot of time and really gave us a sense of what these places are about.
As a small token thanks to you, I spent about 10 minutes and figured out the wine you have (can't tell the year, sorry): Chateau Pavie Decesse
Check out this website, the labels are clearly the same when you blow up the photo on your website:
http://tinyurl.com/64akte
The Internet is so cool!
this is a great report. You took a lot of time and really gave us a sense of what these places are about.
As a small token thanks to you, I spent about 10 minutes and figured out the wine you have (can't tell the year, sorry): Chateau Pavie Decesse
Check out this website, the labels are clearly the same when you blow up the photo on your website:
http://tinyurl.com/64akte
The Internet is so cool!
Nov 14th, 2008, 02:38 AM
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Have not read such a good report for a long time .Wonderful and many thanks. Love KrisMom's pictures as well especially of the food . A delight . I always think one can judge a city / place by its food , coffee and bread -----and maybe its ice cream as well .
Nov 17th, 2008, 11:02 AM
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5alive-thanks so much for figuring out the wine for me. That's awesome!
John-I'm so glad you enjoyed the report. FYI, all the photos on the website are taken by me unless otherwise noted (with the exception of course of the photos of me, taken by my Mom).
Tdudette-glad you liked the Golden Rules.
Ok, now on to the rest of the trip...
After our rest at the hotel we set out walking to get to the Vendettes du Pont neuf boat trip for the 7PM boat which would be perfectly timed for a sunset trip.
Along the way, Mom wants to have a coffee and we stop by several Starbucks to try to get her one, but at each one the line is out the door! Who knew it was so popular and what happened to "cafe culture"?
I'd printed out a discount coupon from the boat company's website and this saved us 2 euro each. If you buy your tickets on line in advance you can save 4 euro per person. While the tour is touristy, we really enjoyed it. It only lasts an hour, the perfect amount of time to go up and down the river and see all the beautiful buildings as the lights come on.
By the time we got off the boat we were hungry and wanted to check out a restaurant called L'Entrecote which serves, you guessed it, steak. That's all that's on the menu; steak, salad, fries. The address I had was in the 6th so we walk there from the boat and when we arrive, the line is down the block. People in line said they had been waiting quite a while and the line was not moving. We abandon our plans for steak and go to the restaurant next door, not wanting to march all over Paris in search of our last supper. The meal was decent, not spectacular.
The last stop on the food tour was Grom Gelato which I had read about on www.davidlebovitz.com . This was the best gelato of the trip! I had the Salted Butter Caramel again and it is served with Pink Himalayan Salt (ask for extra). It was fantastic; much better quality and value than Bertillion for 3.50 euro a scoop.
We end up walking back to the hotel the long way. I thought we could cut through the Louvre and somehow we got a little turned around inside. But it was a fortunate misfortune as we got to see the pyramid all beautifully lit up at night.
John-I'm so glad you enjoyed the report. FYI, all the photos on the website are taken by me unless otherwise noted (with the exception of course of the photos of me, taken by my Mom).
Tdudette-glad you liked the Golden Rules.
Ok, now on to the rest of the trip...
After our rest at the hotel we set out walking to get to the Vendettes du Pont neuf boat trip for the 7PM boat which would be perfectly timed for a sunset trip.
Along the way, Mom wants to have a coffee and we stop by several Starbucks to try to get her one, but at each one the line is out the door! Who knew it was so popular and what happened to "cafe culture"?
I'd printed out a discount coupon from the boat company's website and this saved us 2 euro each. If you buy your tickets on line in advance you can save 4 euro per person. While the tour is touristy, we really enjoyed it. It only lasts an hour, the perfect amount of time to go up and down the river and see all the beautiful buildings as the lights come on.
By the time we got off the boat we were hungry and wanted to check out a restaurant called L'Entrecote which serves, you guessed it, steak. That's all that's on the menu; steak, salad, fries. The address I had was in the 6th so we walk there from the boat and when we arrive, the line is down the block. People in line said they had been waiting quite a while and the line was not moving. We abandon our plans for steak and go to the restaurant next door, not wanting to march all over Paris in search of our last supper. The meal was decent, not spectacular.
The last stop on the food tour was Grom Gelato which I had read about on www.davidlebovitz.com . This was the best gelato of the trip! I had the Salted Butter Caramel again and it is served with Pink Himalayan Salt (ask for extra). It was fantastic; much better quality and value than Bertillion for 3.50 euro a scoop.
We end up walking back to the hotel the long way. I thought we could cut through the Louvre and somehow we got a little turned around inside. But it was a fortunate misfortune as we got to see the pyramid all beautifully lit up at night.
