Kristina's Big Fat Fortieth in France 2008 -A week in Paris and the Dordogne Trip Report
Nov 6th, 2008, 06:20 PM
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I just read your report from your website. Your pictures made my heart thump a little faster with awe and excitement. Now I must return to France.
Thank you for whisking me off to Europe for a moment or two and rejuvenating my traveling spirit.
~mebe
Thank you for whisking me off to Europe for a moment or two and rejuvenating my traveling spirit.
~mebe
Nov 7th, 2008, 11:00 AM
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Hi Mebe! Nice to hear from you. You know how much I enjoyed your Rome report too. Though I do think you ate entirely too much pizza! 
<b>The Best Falafel in the World</b>
So here we are, back in Paris! The world is our oyster and what to do? Go get lunch of course!
One of the places I'd read about repeatedly in my research is a place in the 4th called L As Du Fallafel (32, Rue Rosiers 75004, closed Saturdays). People gush on and on about this place so even though I am not particularly a huge falafel fan, I want to try it. It is in the heart of the old Jewish quarter and we are surrounded by lots of other falafel stands, signs in Hebrew and people with tables on the sidewalk selling supplies for the upcoming Jewish holiday of Sukkot.
When we arrive at L As Du Fallafel there is a line of about 20 people stretching down the sidewalk from the counter window. Fortunately, I'd read about the process in advance. In order to move people along as fast as possible, there is an order taker standing on the street. "What do you want?" he demands. I order one special falafel with "everything" (<i>yes, I'll take the spicy sauce please</i
and a drink for 7 euros. I pay him and he gives me a slip of paper with the order on it. I know there are other things on the menu there and with more time, I probably could have figured out how and what else to order but this was going to be fine for the first time.
When we get to the window, I can see the guys moving a million miles an hour; frying eggplant, rolling falafel, assembling the sandwiches in the pitas. They are all in a hurry and woe be the indecisive diner. The head guy barks at me and I repeat my request for "everything" and a soda and soon I have a giant pita stuffed with fried falafel balls, eggplant, cabbage, spicy harissa sauce, and tangy yogurt. It is heaven in my hands and I don't want to share (though I do). Everywhere we look, there are people standing in doorways, leaning up against the walls, eating a messy, drippy falafel. I wish I had ordered another. I wish I had one right now.
After our falafel we head over the Musee Carnavalet which is nearby and the museum which covers the history of Paris. The entrance is free and the museum is housed in two old mansions. I know this museum is a favorite of many and because I've never been before, I want to see it for myself. I may be alone here, but I'm not impressed. It seems poorly organized and because the descriptions are only in French, it's very difficult to understand what everything is. I think if I were to go again, I'd make sure I had a good guidebook which explained everything in English.
From there, we walk to the Place du Voges where I try on hats for about 20 minutes in a tiny shop. Unfortunately, I don't find anything which suits me. We contemplate having a coffee in one of the numerous places which line the square, but once again, the prospect of a 5+ euro cup of coffee dissuades us. Next time, I promise to <i>suck it up</i>, and spend the money to "enjoy the ambiance".
Mom wants to find a food market she's read about called <i>Marche Enfant Rouges</i> (39 Rue de Bretagne 75003) so we walk in that direction. We are now in the wholesale fashion district. There are tons of stores with fabulous things in the windows but none of them are available to us; they all have signs posted they sell to the trade only. We find the market and it's underwhelming because by the time we get there most of the stalls are closed. However, there are some restaurant type stalls still open. One selling Moroccan cous cous looks particularly good, but instead, we finally get our coffee a stall selling Italian foodstuffs. The guy behind the counter is Italian and get get to order my "due" cappuccino in Italiano. <i>Grazie. Prego!</i> The coffee is wonderful and probably the best of the trip.
<b>The Best Falafel in the World</b>
So here we are, back in Paris! The world is our oyster and what to do? Go get lunch of course!
One of the places I'd read about repeatedly in my research is a place in the 4th called L As Du Fallafel (32, Rue Rosiers 75004, closed Saturdays). People gush on and on about this place so even though I am not particularly a huge falafel fan, I want to try it. It is in the heart of the old Jewish quarter and we are surrounded by lots of other falafel stands, signs in Hebrew and people with tables on the sidewalk selling supplies for the upcoming Jewish holiday of Sukkot.
When we arrive at L As Du Fallafel there is a line of about 20 people stretching down the sidewalk from the counter window. Fortunately, I'd read about the process in advance. In order to move people along as fast as possible, there is an order taker standing on the street. "What do you want?" he demands. I order one special falafel with "everything" (<i>yes, I'll take the spicy sauce please</i
and a drink for 7 euros. I pay him and he gives me a slip of paper with the order on it. I know there are other things on the menu there and with more time, I probably could have figured out how and what else to order but this was going to be fine for the first time. When we get to the window, I can see the guys moving a million miles an hour; frying eggplant, rolling falafel, assembling the sandwiches in the pitas. They are all in a hurry and woe be the indecisive diner. The head guy barks at me and I repeat my request for "everything" and a soda and soon I have a giant pita stuffed with fried falafel balls, eggplant, cabbage, spicy harissa sauce, and tangy yogurt. It is heaven in my hands and I don't want to share (though I do). Everywhere we look, there are people standing in doorways, leaning up against the walls, eating a messy, drippy falafel. I wish I had ordered another. I wish I had one right now.
After our falafel we head over the Musee Carnavalet which is nearby and the museum which covers the history of Paris. The entrance is free and the museum is housed in two old mansions. I know this museum is a favorite of many and because I've never been before, I want to see it for myself. I may be alone here, but I'm not impressed. It seems poorly organized and because the descriptions are only in French, it's very difficult to understand what everything is. I think if I were to go again, I'd make sure I had a good guidebook which explained everything in English.
From there, we walk to the Place du Voges where I try on hats for about 20 minutes in a tiny shop. Unfortunately, I don't find anything which suits me. We contemplate having a coffee in one of the numerous places which line the square, but once again, the prospect of a 5+ euro cup of coffee dissuades us. Next time, I promise to <i>suck it up</i>, and spend the money to "enjoy the ambiance".
Mom wants to find a food market she's read about called <i>Marche Enfant Rouges</i> (39 Rue de Bretagne 75003) so we walk in that direction. We are now in the wholesale fashion district. There are tons of stores with fabulous things in the windows but none of them are available to us; they all have signs posted they sell to the trade only. We find the market and it's underwhelming because by the time we get there most of the stalls are closed. However, there are some restaurant type stalls still open. One selling Moroccan cous cous looks particularly good, but instead, we finally get our coffee a stall selling Italian foodstuffs. The guy behind the counter is Italian and get get to order my "due" cappuccino in Italiano. <i>Grazie. Prego!</i> The coffee is wonderful and probably the best of the trip.
Nov 7th, 2008, 11:39 AM
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Kristina...
Now I'm really going to have to go back to Paris to try the falafel! I had that place on my list, but just not enough time to eat everywhere we wanted to!
Good for you that you finally found a good "cuppa joe" in Paris, figures it was at an Italian place! With no disrespect to the French, coffee is not their strong point!
Now I'm really going to have to go back to Paris to try the falafel! I had that place on my list, but just not enough time to eat everywhere we wanted to!
Good for you that you finally found a good "cuppa joe" in Paris, figures it was at an Italian place! With no disrespect to the French, coffee is not their strong point!
Nov 7th, 2008, 04:33 PM
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Next stop is back to Notre Dame Cathedral where it is still crowded, but not like last time. This time there is space to sit in the pews and enjoy the stained glass for a moment. From there, we walk over to St Chappelle, but the line is all the way down the block and we don't want to wait. So there is still one thing (actually there are many) for me to do the next time I come back to Paris.
At this point, it's late in the afternoon, so we head back to the hotel for a bit of a rest before dinner.
For dinner, we walk back across to the river to Le Petit Pontoise (9, Rue Pontoise 75005) where we had tried to eat earlier in the week. Again, they were full, but we ask if we can eat outside. They look at us like we're mad, but agree. This turns out to be a good choice because the inside of the restaurant is ungodly hot and I doubt we would have been able to sit through a meal in there. I still can't understand why the minute it gets a little chilly outside the restaurants are all super heated. We also start a trend; two other tables of Americans ask to be seated outside after we were. In my mind I could hear the staff whispering to each other, <i>"those crazy Americans, they all want to sit outside in the cold!"</i> The staff are all young, college age kids though, so I don't think much phased them. In addition, they spoke great English including one without any trace of an accent (he said he'd gone to college in South Carolina).
We shared an appetizer of beet and goat cheese salad which were little discs stacked atop one another with sun dried tomatoes and basil. It's a nicely presented dish and tastes wonderful. From what I can see of the appetizers on other tables the first courses are all "prettier" than the main courses, but everything tastes good. I'm not feeling great and need something a little plain for my main course so I order comfort food; roasted chicken and mashed potatoes. Mom has a wonderful rack of lamb after being brought the wrong dish first. Dinner for 2 is about 65 euro with a glass of wine and a bottle of Pellegrino.
At this point, it's late in the afternoon, so we head back to the hotel for a bit of a rest before dinner.
For dinner, we walk back across to the river to Le Petit Pontoise (9, Rue Pontoise 75005) where we had tried to eat earlier in the week. Again, they were full, but we ask if we can eat outside. They look at us like we're mad, but agree. This turns out to be a good choice because the inside of the restaurant is ungodly hot and I doubt we would have been able to sit through a meal in there. I still can't understand why the minute it gets a little chilly outside the restaurants are all super heated. We also start a trend; two other tables of Americans ask to be seated outside after we were. In my mind I could hear the staff whispering to each other, <i>"those crazy Americans, they all want to sit outside in the cold!"</i> The staff are all young, college age kids though, so I don't think much phased them. In addition, they spoke great English including one without any trace of an accent (he said he'd gone to college in South Carolina).
We shared an appetizer of beet and goat cheese salad which were little discs stacked atop one another with sun dried tomatoes and basil. It's a nicely presented dish and tastes wonderful. From what I can see of the appetizers on other tables the first courses are all "prettier" than the main courses, but everything tastes good. I'm not feeling great and need something a little plain for my main course so I order comfort food; roasted chicken and mashed potatoes. Mom has a wonderful rack of lamb after being brought the wrong dish first. Dinner for 2 is about 65 euro with a glass of wine and a bottle of Pellegrino.
Nov 7th, 2008, 08:04 PM
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Kristina,
Can't believe I've been to Paris 2x and I still haven' been able to get top L as du fallafel, partly because I've always wondered if it was worth the hype. But after your description, I'm so mad at myself for not making more of an effort!
Glad to hear the instructions you gave about ordering at the take-out window...I never realized there would be people going down the line taking orders! Seems very intimidating and very soup Nazi like. Was the inside rest. just as crowded?
Can't believe I've been to Paris 2x and I still haven' been able to get top L as du fallafel, partly because I've always wondered if it was worth the hype. But after your description, I'm so mad at myself for not making more of an effort!
Glad to hear the instructions you gave about ordering at the take-out window...I never realized there would be people going down the line taking orders! Seems very intimidating and very soup Nazi like. Was the inside rest. just as crowded?
Nov 7th, 2008, 08:22 PM
#148
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Anna-Wait until you see the pictures! Yes, I'd read it was very "Soup Nazi" and it was. I was also glad to have read "instructions" before going.
We didn't even look inside, so I don't know if it's crowded, but I've read you can sit if you order in there.
There were at least 2 other Falafel places on the same block so if you go, make sure you have the address.
I was also glad to have read "instructions" before going.We didn't even look inside, so I don't know if it's crowded, but I've read you can sit if you order in there.
There were at least 2 other Falafel places on the same block so if you go, make sure you have the address.
Nov 8th, 2008, 03:33 AM
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Another vote for L'As Du Fallafel! Although I had many fabulous meals in Paris, I still remember this as one of the best and cheapest. My friend Monica and I ate inside and while it was packed, we didn't have any problem getting a table or getting served. Note that they close Friday evening for the Sabbath; I can't remember if they reopen Saturday night or Sunday.
Nov 8th, 2008, 06:06 AM
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LouisaH-My notes say they are closed on Saturdays. Glad to know eating inside is as easy as outside.
I have an amendment to this past day's post.
In between lunch and dinner...
At this point, it's late in the afternoon, so we head back to the hotel for a bit of a rest before dinner, stopping at the Place Igor Stravinsky next to the Pompidou to take in the funky modern art fountain. The fountain is in full swing with the components spinning and spitting water. We won't be going into the Musee Pompidou this trip because I've been a couple of times and Mom does not like "modern" art, but I highly recommend it both for the art and the excellent view from the top. Here are some photos from inside the museum from our 2005 trip:http://www.wired2theworld.com/paris2005day8.html
I have an amendment to this past day's post.
In between lunch and dinner...
At this point, it's late in the afternoon, so we head back to the hotel for a bit of a rest before dinner, stopping at the Place Igor Stravinsky next to the Pompidou to take in the funky modern art fountain. The fountain is in full swing with the components spinning and spitting water. We won't be going into the Musee Pompidou this trip because I've been a couple of times and Mom does not like "modern" art, but I highly recommend it both for the art and the excellent view from the top. Here are some photos from inside the museum from our 2005 trip:http://www.wired2theworld.com/paris2005day8.html
Nov 8th, 2008, 06:47 AM
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Kristina, Loved your report and pictures. Cool artwork also-how did you pack it? Even though they aren't an exact match, they share a "look" so I think pairing them anywhere will work well!
My DH is crazy over goat cheese on toast-he'd love the goat cheese salad!
OP is spending a month in Paris-what a luxury eh?
My DH is crazy over goat cheese on toast-he'd love the goat cheese salad!
OP is spending a month in Paris-what a luxury eh?
Nov 8th, 2008, 07:47 AM
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TDudette- I have to admit that artwork is still unframed, 3.5 years later. They are a non standard size and professional framing is <i>really</i> expensive. I've just never gotten around to getting it done. I really should...
BTW, you weren't referring to <b>me</b> spending a month in Paris were you? We were only there a week...but the report is taking me a month to write, LOL!
Ok, photos now online for day 7:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/PARIS2008day7.html
Only one more day to go...
BTW, you weren't referring to <b>me</b> spending a month in Paris were you? We were only there a week...but the report is taking me a month to write, LOL!
Ok, photos now online for day 7:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/PARIS2008day7.html
Only one more day to go...
Nov 8th, 2008, 08:20 AM
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Try this:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/PARIS2008Day7.html
I have no idea why that first link did not work except that the "D" in day was not capitalized.
http://www.wired2theworld.com/PARIS2008Day7.html
I have no idea why that first link did not work except that the "D" in day was not capitalized.
Nov 8th, 2008, 09:17 AM
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Must have been the big D in the URL...works fine now.
Lest Fodorites think I let every gen x french shop-girl make me quake in my "pretty shoes" ( I do have some really nice shoes). I will just say this: I deal with really scary people EVERY day. I mean, I sell ad space in a down economy---and that's scary, and I sleep fine. I rarely wash my own car, let alone a rental. But she had me: I had visions of charges appearing on the Amex for years. I do admit that getting change and going back to vacuum might have been over the top...
offwego, I swear that the walk thru Gare Montparnasse to the metro made the trek over the stones at Baeng Malea (http://www.wired2theworld.com/Cam2007SiemReapDay4.html) seem like a walk down 5th Ave.
And yes, I do hate modern art, well not all of it, but what comes up for me most of the time is WHY?
As far as the falafel, well let it suffice to say that if she wasn't my daughter, I would have run away down the street with it, and not shared. Having eaten falafel from Fairfax Ave to Tel Aviv, I can truthfully say that this was THE best. It might be reason alone to go back to Paris. we should ahve bought three.
I agree that coffee is not a French strong suit. I guess coffee and Fois Gras would have been too much to ask the food gods.
Lest Fodorites think I let every gen x french shop-girl make me quake in my "pretty shoes" ( I do have some really nice shoes). I will just say this: I deal with really scary people EVERY day. I mean, I sell ad space in a down economy---and that's scary, and I sleep fine. I rarely wash my own car, let alone a rental. But she had me: I had visions of charges appearing on the Amex for years. I do admit that getting change and going back to vacuum might have been over the top...
offwego, I swear that the walk thru Gare Montparnasse to the metro made the trek over the stones at Baeng Malea (http://www.wired2theworld.com/Cam2007SiemReapDay4.html) seem like a walk down 5th Ave.
And yes, I do hate modern art, well not all of it, but what comes up for me most of the time is WHY?
As far as the falafel, well let it suffice to say that if she wasn't my daughter, I would have run away down the street with it, and not shared. Having eaten falafel from Fairfax Ave to Tel Aviv, I can truthfully say that this was THE best. It might be reason alone to go back to Paris. we should ahve bought three.
I agree that coffee is not a French strong suit. I guess coffee and Fois Gras would have been too much to ask the food gods.
Nov 8th, 2008, 10:54 AM
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Kristina,
Thanks for putting up the pictures for Day 7. I've always admired your photos, and the one at the very top of Paris at dusk(is that the Pont Neuf?) is very lovely.
The falafel sandwich looks incredible - no pictures of the man taking the orders? I'm pretty sure if you did, he would probably kick you out of the line...no falafel for you!
I was showing the pictures to my sister, and she was wondering what the Jewish holiday of Sukkot was for - do you know?
Thanks for putting up the pictures for Day 7. I've always admired your photos, and the one at the very top of Paris at dusk(is that the Pont Neuf?) is very lovely.
The falafel sandwich looks incredible - no pictures of the man taking the orders? I'm pretty sure if you did, he would probably kick you out of the line...no falafel for you!
I was showing the pictures to my sister, and she was wondering what the Jewish holiday of Sukkot was for - do you know?
Nov 8th, 2008, 11:38 AM
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Anna-
Thanks, I love that photo too. I know it's not the Pont Neuf, but I'm not sure which bridge it is.
I don't personally know much about Sukkot.
Here's the wikipedia link about it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sukkot
Thanks, I love that photo too. I know it's not the Pont Neuf, but I'm not sure which bridge it is.
I don't personally know much about Sukkot.
Here's the wikipedia link about it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sukkot
Nov 8th, 2008, 01:46 PM
#159
