Here's where it begins! Well, after an uneventful flight from Toronto to London's Heathrow, here we sit for 7 hours at the Gatwick airport after taking the shuttle bus here for our connecting flight to Rome.

We booked our trip through Travelocity and were informed after the fact that there had been a change in flight info. We were to leave from Heathrow to Rome originally, but got bumped to depart for Rome from the Gatwick airport instead. We were a little miffed to learn that we had to pay for our shuttle bus ourselves! Not cheap...42 euros for the three of us one way. The one saving grace is that it was a pretty drive to get here. I've never seen sheep grazing on the side of a major thoroughfare before!

Anyway, just thought I'd start this trip report and possibly try to snooze on the padded benches here inside Gatwick since we didn't sleep well on the flight over the pond. Its 10AM here and I for one have now been up for 24 hours Toronto time and have to try and make it another 8-10 hours anyway. A little nap will go a long way in nipping the jet lag in the bud.

I will report again tomorrow after actually getting settled in Rome. Until then, nighty-night and cheers!

Kevin.

Oh, you poor thing. We once spent 7 or 8 hours in Gatwick waiting for a flight that our travel agent assured us wouldn't be necessary. Nothing to do and that was at the time when the British closed all pubs between 2 and 4 or some such stupid thing. Really nothing to do. Good luck. Hope all goes well and that your luck turns.

I glanced at your trip report title, and thought it was a trip report from 1967. Here I found out it's in real time! Anyway, I hope you get some much needed sleep. Jetlag is such a bit@h, but well worth the adventures ahead of you. Enjoy your trip; I look forward to reading more of your installments.

Robyn

I love a real-time trip report! Glad you've made it at least part of the way.

Hey kids! Its now 11:15PM Rome time and we arrived safely after a nice 3 hour nap in Gatwick and a perfect, sunny flight of 2 hours to get here! Needless to say, I am pumped and have put my dear wife and son to bed for the night.

We managed to clear Rome's airport with only one minor mishap. First off, I must say that the Italians seem, shall we say, less than enthusiastic about their jobs at the airport. I could have been on Interpols most wanted list for all the customs guys were concerned. They waved us over to them non-chalantly and didn't even check our passports for country of origin, picture, nada. Just the stamp and we were waved in. Then, we had the pleasure of watching the baggage handlers LAUNCHING all the luggage from the plane's hold onto the waiting flat bed. And here's the cute part. They thought it would be a good idea to put three separate plane's worth of luggage on ONE carousel! There were empty ones. Can you imagine the zoo of a time we had trying to get our bags off the turntable? There was almost a fight between two especially passionate Italian men over personal space issues and who should be jockeying for the best position at the carousel. Lots of shouting and hand gesturing. Very entertaining! My little mishap was that my suitcase was cut open with a knife to search for drugs? or something. It was zipped shut, but sliced all across the bottom to look between the lining. No biggie, though. It is just a bag, so no harm, no foul. At least it showed up. And I must say, that in their effort to put in as little effort as possible, the Italians look damn good doing it! Is there such thing as an ugly Italian man?? My wife enjoyed the eye candy.

The cab ride to our hotel wasn't too bad at all even though we got shafted on the price. Everybody was getting outside at the same time, so there were cabs leaving by the drove with customers already. We ended up in a nice Mercedes cab/club car for 60 euros all in. We also cruised at a lovely 125KPH with high beams flashing slowpokes out of the way the whole time! Airport to Crown Plaza hotel in 22 minutes!

Hotel was a pleasant surprise. Its really nice, but who cares...its only a place to sleep and shower. We were quite worried that by booking our hotel so entirely West of the real action of Rome that we would be in the boonies. Happily, we are not. We are located about 1KM further to the West than Villa Doria Pamphili(check a map for location). By walking along via Aurelia Antica and veering NE onto via Torre Rosa, we ended up finding ourselves smack in the midst of Piazza di Villa Carpegna(close to the Cornelia and/or Baldo Degli Ubaldi metro stops). Can you say ZERO tourists?? We had the local Romans all to ourselves! This area is loaded with restaurants, bars, tobaconists and all other manner of retail establishments. We ate some terrific pizza for supper(I didn't get the name, but I will and will post later)! This place had to have 15 types of oblong pizza premade on a giant wooden cutting board. You went up to the counter, picked your pie, told the guy how much of the beast to cut off and then you paid for it by the pound! The three of us scarfed a wad of pizza, had 1 glass of wine, 1 beer and 1 pop for 39 euros. Expensive, yes. However, for our first foray into authentic Roman pizza, it was worth it! My wifes choice was fresh whole basil leaves, sundried tomatoes, a multitude of olives, creamy boccanchini, thick slices of ripe roma tomatoes and a garlic pesto under it all. WOW!

So, tomorrow, we have a semi different plan in order. I guess we hadn't fully understood how very Catholic Rome is and many things such as markets and smaller mom and pop stores are not open. We are opting to go to a flea market of sorts at Piazza Porta Portese in Trastevere on the Tiber. Our concierge said it was worth seeing but to be cautious. Apparently its fairly famous for helping tourists part with their money in a multitude of ways, not all legal. Anyhow, sounds like fun! Then we'll just bum around Trastevere, cross the Tiber into the Jewish ghetto and poke around there as well.

I suppose I should get to bed considering I've got the wake up call placed for 6:30AM and its now 12:10AM! I'll go as soon as I have a nightcap in our hotel lounge and enjoy the beautiful sound of the baby grand being played quite masterfully! Until tomorrow my friends!

Ciao!

Kevin.

Well it sounds pretty interesting we are all glad that you arrived safely. You are very lucky to be there as we are having snow up to 20cm and it is cold. Hope the weather is warmer there. Sorry you had such a long wait at Gatwick and the extra money you had to spend but I guess it's a lesson learned. Can't wait to read your next report. Have fun and stay safe

Another option for Sunday would be to pop over to the Vatican for the Pope's Blessing at noon.

Hello Kevin, my first thought too was that you were giving a fun 1967 trip report..back when Italia was "La Dolce Vita". But your "while on the trip" report is fantastic! I have had the giggles reading some parts, yes tell your wife I always love the "eye candy" too..oh those Italian men are good to look at! I have one in the family, a Roman!

I can hardly wait for your next installment!

Buena sera, Kevin! Please go to the Piazza della Rotundo and have a limoncello for me! I'm sooo jealous! Enjoy every minute of your time in Roma, Bella Roma! Get to Bromante for saltimboca if you can!

This is a fun report to read! Slashed suitcase! Maybe that's why all the Italians shrink wrap theirs Looking forward to more.

Hey guys...more to come later, but the shrink wrap...no s__t!! I saw at least 5 suitcases wrapped like that!!! Too funny! TTYL. Kevin.

Can't wait to hear more about your trip. Shrink wrap too funny can only imagine what that looked like...Hope your having fun.

Looking forward to reading more of your report, Kevin. Hope you and your family are having a wonderful time!

I'll be in Rome in a few weeks...I can't wait to read more of your report!

Our hotel is having internet issues. I'm trying! Kevin.

Sorry about yesterday guys. Twice now I've had my post ready to go and the net shuts down, losing all my work! Here is what you should have read yesterday, with today's post to follow...kind of a two for one deal.

If I had to give yesterday a psychiatric assesment, it would be 'manic'...extreme highs and extreme lows. The day began with us rising at 6:30AM to head out for the flea market at Piazza Porta Portese. This is a Sunday only event from 7AM until mid afternoon. All other outdoor markets such as the one at Campo di Fiori are closed on Sunday, along with most mom and pop places due to the overwhelming 'Catholicness' of Rome.

The day started well with us aking a bus only halfway on purpose in order for us to be able to walk and 'smell the roses'. Our goal was to find a cute authentic cafe in which we could eat morning pastries along with some good coffee. This mission was accomplished by sticking to the smaller, residential side streets. We happened upon a very nice, obviously 'local' cafe where we were the only outsiders. The owners and patrons were super nice and gave us full marks for attempting to communicate in not completely horrible Italian. We had fab expresso for .7 euro and cappucino for .9 euro. Along with juice for my son and 3 pastries, breakfast came to under 12 euros.

Now onto the market itself. I highly recommend this outing. Even if you're not into flea markets, you can people watch, enjoy musicians, buskers, and other street performers. I will say that the advice our concierge gave about watching out for gypsy pickpockets was highly exaggerated. You watched your purse and wallet, but no more than you would in a busy place in North America. Plus, the place was crawling with police. A petty crook would be crazy to have tried anything.

Most vendors were North African or Indian. Very few Italians. They were selling everything from clothing, leather coats, shoes and boots, CD's, antiques, gawdy nick nacks, luggage and purses...you name it. There was even a guy selling a kitchen gadget a la late night infomercial! Some kind of slicer...we bought one...10 euros. There was also some food. Guys were roasting and selling fresh peanuts and chestnuts, deep frying pastries of some sort and even cooking up some yummy 'street meat'! Nothing quite beats a flattened sweet sausage patty grilled to perfection, served up on a fresh bun slathered in mustard and heaped with fried onions and hot peppers! My cholesterol count increased several points that day.

Our favourite vendor was an oldr Italian man and his buddy selling fresh food. It wasn't even 8AM and they each had a beer on the go(God bless them!)and they were selling fresh bread and rolls, homemade pesto, dried sausage, cheese and olive oil. We stopped to have a look and they insisted we try everything! Mange! Mange! they barked as they gave us bread dipped in oil, chunks of gorganzola with sausage and pesto on crackers. It was all delicious, so we bought one of each! They were quite happy to have sold 'skinny people' some rib sticking grub!

Lastly, my wife bought a leather pair of knee high riding boots for 25 euros and I bought a snazzy pair of Italian leather shoes for 15 euros. My son the soccer fan even managed to snag a fairly authentic Juventis soccer jersey for 10 euros.All in sll, a really neat time!

Since the market is in Trastevere on the Tiber, we decided to cross the river and poke around the Jewish Ghetto. We saw and photographed the synagogue, plus several kosher storefronts, which was pretty cool considering we were in Rome. A terrific lunch of wild mushroom fettuchini and vino was enjoyed on an outdoor patio! Thus ends the good day. Evil was to follow.

I'm going to post this now before I lose the info. I'll immediately start another post and continue with yesterday's news. Hopefully It'll remain coherent.

Cheers!

Kevin.

As promised, here is where yesterday went downhill. After having our late lunch, it was nearing 4PM. We were pooped from all the walking, full from lunch and loaded down with our purchases plus some other food and wine we bought to smuggle into our hotel room. If you're a rookie, the Roman bus/metro system can be a little confusing. One stop can have 3,4,5 or even 6 different bus numbers that stop at it. Its up to you to know which number goes where. There are legends of a sort at each stop, but again, novices such as ourselves were having some trouble making sense of it. When we thought things were figured out, we hopped on our bus, which was only a mini bus...1/3 the length and capacity of a regular bus. Ostensibly, this is because this route is probably not terribly popular or busy...wrong! When we got on, there was already only standing room to be had. Doesn't this driver continue to stop and see how many people he can cram into his bus and still have the doors close! We were so squashed, we couldn't move. If you can't move, you can't exit. If you can't exit, you miss your metro stop. By the time enough people got off for us to be able to get near the doors, we had come full circle and were back where we had gotten on originally! I'm now starting to steam. I want to take a cab back to the hotel. My darling wife wants to save the 12 euros and try learning the bus system again. I want to murder said wife for suggesting this. She finally gives into my tantrum and we take a taxi. !0 minutes and 12 euros and we're back at the hotel...glorous! Let's go for a swim and hot tub and sauna to relax. Sorry, sir, no children under the age of 16 are allowed in the 'wellness center'. Son flips out, storms upstairs. I try and persuade them to bend the rules. No luck. Upstairs we go and I send the wife down to the pool. No sense all of us losing out. She returns in 10 minutes. 'Wellness center' is loaded with chi-chi people drinking martinis in their Speedo's. Large Italian woman with moustache and back hair massageing and rolling hot stones on chi-chi's. Barf...no thanks...keep your club. We no longer WANT to swim. Then the internet crashes on me twice! I was within 1 sentence of posting and I lose everything!! Solution?? Beer and Chianti. Kevin is happy. Sleeps soundly. Looking forward to tomorrow.

Ciao, my darlings!

Kevin.

Hello Fodorites! I'm very excited! Today was perfect from start to finish! It was Vatican tour day! The day started slowly. Beer and Chianti=foggy morning. Tour didn't meet until 1PM, so there was no big rush. We studied the bus and metro routes and are happy to say we've figured them out entirely!! Once the brain got wrapped around their logic, it made total sense. We made it to our meeting point at The American Bar outside the Vatican by 12:30. Had expresso and pizza as we waited. When 1 o'clock neared, we were nervous because the bar was practically empty. This was where we were supposed to meet, right? In strolls a thin, blond girl carrying a folder. It is our guide and she is an ex pat Brit who has been studying art history in Rome for 6 years! The other couple in the bar turn out to be from Orlando and are the only others in our group! How cool is that?!

This guide(Joanne)was an absolute fountain of knowledge. She knew Rome's history from its inception, including names of emperors! On the Vatican, she knew every pope, their accomplishments, the role of the church as it pertained to Roman history...everything! Before we even started, she pre explained the most pertinent artwork, sculptures, mosaics and frescoes we would be seeing. When the tour commenced, it became obvious that we would have missed out on so much had we just plodded through on our own. She showed us obscure artwork that others overlook. She condensed the hundreds of sculptures into a handful of only the most important. Quite amazing, really.

Words cannot adequately describe the Sistine Chapel and St.Peter's Basilica! You have to EXPERIENCE it. Michaelangelos ceiling in the Sistine Chapel is absolutely, insanely detailed! It has just finished being professionally cleaned and restored, so the colors are as vivid as when he first painted them. They left a small section of the ceiling untouched by restoration to give an idea of how dirty it was. Almost black! Centuries of soot from thousands of burning candles had left their mark! The sheer size of St.Peter's Basilica is astounding! Directly under the dome is a large bronze arch of sorts. It weighs 68,000 KG and is over 5 stories high. There is still enough room to go another 5 stories before touching the top of the dome...at least. The statues, sculptures and paintings are impressive in their size and numbers. Go big or go home was apparently the rule of thumb in the building of this masterpiece! And, Michaelangelos sculpture 'Pity', depicting Mary cradling Jesus as he came down from the cross was enough to almost move you to tears, and I'm not especially religious. You have to experience this for yourself. Do yourself a favor and do get a guide. I think you'll be hugely overwhelmed if you just plod through.

After the tour, we got together for a meal with our American friends from the tour. They were about our age and were really nice people. We found a cute little spot within blocks of the Vatican and had a pretty darned good late lunch...wild mushroom fettuchini, vegetable soup, garden salad, tiramisu, vino and expresso. Need I say more? I've been exceptionally crappy about names of restaurants. I'll get them and post later in the week. As an aside, I researched(with your help)a ton of restaurants before we left for Rome. So far, we've gone to where our noses and hearts and eyes have led us. So far, things have worked out well. I think that eating out is such an individual experience that even with the best advice, different people will get different things out of a restaurant. I say don't make a plan if you come here. There are an absolutely obscene amount of places to eat in Rome! Follow your nose, your heart, your eyes. They all have menus posted outside. Check what's on the menu, how much, etc. Move along if you're not pleased by offering or price. You'll find something. This way, you'll also find your very own 'best place to eat in Rome', which is so much better than following advice...no offense intended to all the Fodorites who happily helped me with advice.

The last part of a truly great day was to make plans with our new American friends for Ostia Antica tomorrow and a meal together at Checchino dal 1887 for Thursday night. I can't wait for ostia in the morning and look forward to reporting again tomorrow evening.

Ciao!

Kevin.

Wow sure sounds like you have done and learned alot about Italy in a very short period of time..I bet it was very frustrating at first but it sure sounds like you have picked up the italian way..I am having a riot reading your experiences. Keep having fun and can't wait until tomorrow to read on how your day was. All is well here and I hope all stays well there. Daisy, Jenny and Sam are glad your having a good time.

I am so loving your "while we are here" report Kevin. Some days do go better than others while on a trip but that is true while one is at home also.

The Pieta by Michelangelo..yes it is breathtaking. I have a small bonded marble one that my Roman born and bred son-in-law brought me when he arrived here to marry my daughter. I love it as it brings back the memory of how I felt when we first saw the original at St. Peter's.

I relate to your comments about restaurants. That is what I have always done and it usually works out so well. The worse dinner we ever had in Italy was at a highly recommended restaurant, lol.

While I write this I hope you three are having a good nights sleep. And wishes that the coming day will be as wonderful and as much fun as the 23rd was for you. BTW, congratulations on figuring out the bus system. All I can say is "bravo!"