We just returned from two weeks Southern Spain. We spent Holy Week in Seville, a day in Cordoba, and three days in Grenada ( two days we were in Madrid). <BR> <BR>We did not have a car. Trains and busses were frequent and terrific. Willing to answer any questions. <BR>

We're considering going to southern Spain at the beginning of October. Would welcome any advice you have to give. Thanks.

marija, <BR> <BR>October should be great ( as was April)..not too hot. <BR> <BR>I'll tell you what we did and if you want more information email <BR> me at home. <BR> <BR>We flew to Madrid and stayed at the Hotel Moderno for two days. It has a great location in old Madrid, but has no charm. I'd try the Hotel Paris or consult Karen Brown for another hotel in Madrid. Madrid is not my favorite city, not a great walking town, but my husband had never been and the Prado is worth it. <BR>We flew to Seville ( cheaper than the AVE train) and stayed at Hotel de los Mercodores (spelling) ... a lovely place with a perfect location. It was about $135 US dollars. Seville is fabulous, very exotic and well worth several days. <BR> <BR>If Gary Bedell is giving tours (your hotle will know), take one. He is excellent and loves Seville. <BR> <BR>We then took the AVE train ( no reservation needed) to Cordoba and stayed at the Hotel Albucasis. Great location, charming little spot, courtyard, spotless,under $100. Cordoba is definitely worth a night as the tour busses clear out and the city is a maze of twisted lamplit streets. The Mezquita is incredible and the synagagoue is interesting, too. Lots of good restaurants there, also. <BR> <BR>Next we went to Granada by bus ( lovely) where we stayed at the Parador ( book WAY in advance). It is expensive ( about 220$) , but you are in the former convent and right on the grounds of the Alhambra. Your other choice is the Hotel America , where we stayed for two nights also. A real gem...run by a family, lots of tile and gleaming dark wood, great patio with terrific food and ON THE ALHAMBRA grounds! Don't stay in Granada proper..it's noisy and a hassle to get to the Alhambra which is always busy. Plan at least two days to be sure you get tickets to tour the Alhambra and the gardens...they are magical. <BR> <BR>Then we had the flight from hell to return home.. <BR> <BR>Spain, especially the south, is just fascinating. You will have a great time. <BR> <BR>I

Michele, <BR> <BR>Sounds like you had a great trip! I'm leaving for Spain next month. Just a one week tour, but a chance to see another country. We'll be visiting Madrid, Granada, Seville, Cordoba, and Toledo. What was your favorite city and why? How were the people? What airline did you fly over? <BR> <BR>Thanks! <BR> <BR>Jeff <BR>

Oh-oh <BR>Warn us...what airlines, and what was the flight from hell?

My favorite city, hands-down, was Seville. I am interested in Islamic architecture( a great deal of LAWRENCE OF ARABIA was filmed there)and fascinated by religious ritual, so to be there during Holy Week filled the bill. I also study flamenco and bought good castenents and shoes at Menkes, the dance store of Spain. Further, Seville is a sophisticated city and a walking city <BR>with a lot to do. The people throughout Spain are very friendly (and my Spanish is limited to "two beers, please" and "where is the bathroom".) <BR>The flight was the usual story: Crowded, people bringing on more carry-on luggage than one could imagine, broken toilets, unsupervised children. The airline was Air France, but I doubt it's any different on any other airline. I have had great flights with them also. <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR>

<BR>Marija - we've just returned from Spain (info posted elsewhere). If you are on the Costa de Sol, around Estepona, be sure to see the old historic village of Casares up in the hills. Caesar had tried to conquer this town but failed because he couldn't get up the steep hills. The fortress, now in ruins, is atop the hill and the surrounding village is built right into the hill. It's really neat to see, and easy to walk around. Some shopping and cafes. We also enjoyed Puerto Banus, the marina by Marbella (which didn't impress us). Lots of inexpensive cafes and shopping. <BR>Jeff - for Toledo, if possible, try to walk around on your own rather than take a bus tour which drops you off on one end of the town and picks you up at the other. If you drive, I think you have to do the same. Toledo is wonderful for walking around and browsing at your own pace.

Michele: <BR>I was so glad to see your message about Spain. My husband and I are going in 2 weeks and we have a similar itinerary...Madrid,Cordoba, Sevilla, & Grenada. Our Sevilla hotel reservations are still up in the air & I want to check into your recommendation ..the Hotel do los Mercodores. I wanted to stay in Hotel America in Grenada but that looks booked. Do you or anyone else have suggestions (we have been following Karen Browns where possible.) If you have any other particulars....restaurants,tours, etc. please pass them on as we are leaving in about 2 weeks. The other question I have is we have 1 "unspoken for" day...if we're adventurous we'll rent a car and drive around otherwise we might stay on one extra day in the Seville area. Currently we will probably spend 2 nights there, we may stay there an extra night or head to Casa de Carmona...anyone heard anything wonderful about this hotel in Carmona???

Susan, <BR> <BR>Karen Brown is so reliable, so you have a great source for information. <BR> <BR>My hotel is Seville was great. Lots of charm , terrific location near the cathedral, on a pedestrian street. I am certain I am misspelling it, nut it is La Casa de los Macerderos on Alvarez Quintana. It is owned by the same people who run Las Casa de la Juderia ( BEAUTIFUL..right in the barrio). That one is on Callejon de Dos Hermanas 7, <BR>FAX: 4422170, PHONE: 4415150. I couldn't get in there, but it was my first choice. <BR> <BR>For lamb try La Casa del Cordero on Paraiso 3 in the Triana barrio. Excellent roasted shoulder (brazuelo) in a family run spot away from the tourist front ( nice bar right next door, too). <BR> <BR>If you can get in try the tapas at CASABLANCA. It is on the side street off the plaza near Corte Ingles. I think it was Madrid. The place has a small tile nameplate on the outside. It is THE tapas spot in Madrid. The King is a regualr as are the matadors. I had fried <BR>baccalao in sffron and mint and veal with wild mushrooms and pignoli nuts. The tapas change every day. You really have to PUSH to get in, but it is worth it. ( Also, I was there during Holy Week when crowds are the rule.) <BR> <BR>Flamenco: try Los Gallos, Plaza de Santa Cruz 11 OR El Arenal, Calle Roda 7. <BR> <BR>Cordoba: we stayed at the Albucasis and KB is right on the money with it...very lovely. The Mezquita is incredible and I found the synagagoe to be interesting ( limited hours, non-operative) <BR> <BR>Granada: <BR>At least have lunch or dinner at the AMERICA; it is so lovely. Have a drink on the patio of the parador for an evening view of the Alhambra. In the city, try to find La Pesqueria for a fish dinner in a beautiful flower filled dining room with blue tiles and tablecloths ( great black rice). Cunini is another popular fish spot. It's pretty also. <BR> <BR>There are some posts on this forum about Carmona. I hear Nerja is lovely, too. <BR> <BR>Have fun. It is a faascinating part of the world. That blend of Arabic, Hebrew, and Catholic is so unique that it tranforms your one trip into many. <BR> <BR>

Susan, <BR> <BR>OOPS Casablanca is in SEVILLE, not Madrid. I'll email you at home with any more information on my hotel in Seville. <BR>I have the addres there.

Michele: Dont forget Barcelona,Spain <BR>It is a really nice city to visit. <BR>Victor <BR>

Victor, <BR>ADORE Barcelona...spent about a week there last year.. Classy city with lots to do.

Susan and others, <BR>The name of the hotel in Seville is <BR>Hotel Las Casas de los Mercaderes <BR>Alvarez Quintero, 9-13 <BR>Tel: 954 225 858 <BR>Fax:954 229 884 <BR> <BR>It is a new hotel so it won't be in any guidebook. It was a merchants home and has been restored. Great location...during Holy Week it was 135 US dollars a night.

Michele: <BR>Thanks for all the great suggestions. I've taken copious notes....we'll be sure to try some of these. I won't be leaving for another 1 l/2 weeks, so if you think of anything else, please send it along! <BR>Thanks for the help. I'll keep you posted. <BR>Susan

Susan and others: <BR> <BR>If you are going to Cordoba there is a patio festival in May ( not sure of the dates.) Homeowners open -up their courtyards to display their flowers. <BR>Sounds lovely...

Michele -- it sounds like you had a great trip! Can you please give me a little more info on flying from Madrid to Seville? Is it really cheaper? What airline? As you may remember, I'm doing a very similar trip in a few weeks so I really appreciate all your great advice. Would love to hear any more you'd like to share. Thanks!

Will be in Malaga in a month. Plan to spend a night in Sevilla and have booked the Ciudad de Seville. Has anyone heard of it? <BR>

Gail, <BR>The plane ( Iberia) from Madrid to Seville is slightly cheaper than the Ave train and takes about 45 minutes. My travel agent, who is Spanish, says the scenery is nothing spectacular so to our minds it was better to get to Seville <BR>faster than sit on the train for a couple of hours.There is NO airport bus at the Seville airport, but the cab wasn't too expensive, Sorry, I can't remember the price. I don't know how much time you have in Seville, but it is worth several days ( we were there for four full days ). I wouldn't want to waste time on a train, unless you love train trips. <BR> <BR>

Gary Baedell? I rememer him from a semester in Sevilla - he ran the program there. When I saw this message I forwarded the URL to some friends from the program. <BR>I thought him arrogant and pompous. Not trying to flame anyone here, but I WOULD NOT recommend a tour with him. He's adopted that condescending attitude that ex-patriots have.

Nice info. folks. Learning about other peoples travels are great indeed! Actually, this travel nut plans to go to Spain in early June. Plan on visiting some old haunts and new places. I have been to Spain many times but never made it to Cordoba. I am glad to hear it is indeed a worthwhile visit. I will stop there for sure. I plan to tour Galicia - a favorite haunt and write copious notes. Noya is high on my list this time. I will let all of you know how it went. Also plan to hit Ronda and use this magical town as a homebase for seeing other interesting sites nearby. Just a note, I managed to get a good price to Madrid from Chicago and then Paris return - no stops for USD 576 from Travelocity. Key here was to depart on a Tues or weekday. One day can make a big difference! Michele , I am glad you had a great trip. See all of you on the road!