Just Back - Dayle's Solo Trip to Italy
Oct 5th, 2005, 08:40 AM
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Dayle, this report is fantastic!
ahhh the Brunello - what I would do to have a case at home!
I really regret not making it to hear the Gregorian Chants, but we only had limited time in Tuscany.
Your advice regarding solo travel interests me. Not that it would happen, my husband is just as addicted to travel as I! But still, thanks for all the input.
Can't wait to hear the finale!
ahhh the Brunello - what I would do to have a case at home!
I really regret not making it to hear the Gregorian Chants, but we only had limited time in Tuscany.
Your advice regarding solo travel interests me. Not that it would happen, my husband is just as addicted to travel as I! But still, thanks for all the input.
Can't wait to hear the finale!
Oct 5th, 2005, 07:12 PM
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Roma - Day 19
I was sorry to leave Spello. I really loved the town and the hotel. I needed to drive to Foligno to return my car and get the train to Rome. I had chosen Foligno because they had a rental office right at the station. Foligno is Umbria’s third largest city and it was the largest city I’ve driven in. It was actually very easy, not too much traffic and after a few turns I found the station. Trained to Termini and repeated the routine of a taxi to my hotel which was supposed to be the Hotel Giardino Rome again. After lugging my suitcase up the 2 flights of stairs, Sergio informed me that my room was unavailable due to a plumbing problem. However, Katy had taken the step of reserving a single room for me at the 3* across the street, the Hotel Hiberia. The Hotel Giardino Rome picked up the difference in cost. I thought that was very good of them and I appreciated their making arrangements in advance for me. Hotel Hiberia was just a bit nicer in furnishings and bath (real water pressure in the shower!) than Giardino, but not nearly as friendly and intimate.
I arrived mid-afternoon and just spent my last afternoon and evening walking all over the city! I was done with churches and museums and I just wanted to walk, enjoy the energy of Rome and revisit some of my favorite landmarks. Stopped for a very late lunch somewhere near the Pantheon. Went to Café St. Eustachio (SP?) to pick up chocolate covered expresso beans for my best friend, then hit the gourmet shop, Chocolat, for my own addiction. Not one, but two last gellati and the best flavor yet Melon (Mango), actually it was a sorbet.
Ciao, Roma - Day 20
I had arranged with the hotel for a driver to take me to Fiumicino. He was 20 minutes late arriving so the day did not start well. I knew checking in at Alitalia would be ugly and it was. It took 45 minutes just to get anywhere near the front of the line and they finally let passengers for my flight go ahead when the clock ticked down to under an hour before departure. It was very good I checked up on the desk agent because she did not even read the itinerary I handed her. She only tagged my luggage as far as Paris and didn’t even notice the other two legs of my reservation. After two more tries, she finally got the luggage tag right.
Alitalia’s first class section wasn’t much, but then it was only a short flight to Paris. It was a clear day over the Alps and the mountains were just spectacular. Got a good view of Lake Geneva. Just barely made my connection at CDG after changing terminals and going through security once again. Then on to the “gate” and the bus that drives you out to your plane. The bus driver actually did a couple of U turns before he found the right plane!! Air France business class was very nice, but seats weren’t quite as comfortable as Delta. Loved the little glass of champagne though! Our flight ended up taking off 50 minutes late. Not good. I couldn’t sleep at all, so just read the only English language paperback I could find in CDG and tried to forget that I had paid 11.50 E for it! Finally got around to watching “Mr. & Mrs. Smith” on the screen. Loved the black humor although the concept wore thin at the end.
Unfortunately, things went downhill from here. We got into Chicago 45 minutes late and in spite of Air France’s assurances that Air France personnel would help us make our connections, there wasn’t a living soul to answer questions or give any gate information at all! I ended up missing my flight which was the last direct flight to Salt Lake. Having no choice, they put me on a commuter flight to Cincinnati (somewhere I really didn’t want to go) where I would then take another flight to SLC. This added a mere 4 hours to my travel time. Amazingly, my little suitcase made the entire trip with me! I wasn’t holding out much hope of ever seeing it again.
It was a wonderful trip and as usual I can't wait to go back! Some observations:
They now have traffic personnel with radios directing traffic through the tightest turns and squeezes on the Amalfi drive.
A huge decrease in the number of people smoking from what it was 10 years ago. Love the new anti-smoking laws for buildings, trains, and restaurants!
ITALIANS OF ALL AGES WEAR JEANS! Jeans, jeans, jeans. Everywhere, any time of day. I even saw people wearing blue jeans at a very large, very somber funeral, with their respectful black tee shirts of course.
The biggest benefit of going solo: You become so much more approachable. People will ask you questions and are much more interested in you because you are definitely not the norm. Also, because you are not so involved with your travel companion(s), you become much more observant of everything and everyone around you. A very big plus!
I know this is long and very detailed, but I’ve always picked up little pieces of useful info reading other’s trip reports. I hope some of you will get some little bits here.
Buon viaggio, Fodorites!
I was sorry to leave Spello. I really loved the town and the hotel. I needed to drive to Foligno to return my car and get the train to Rome. I had chosen Foligno because they had a rental office right at the station. Foligno is Umbria’s third largest city and it was the largest city I’ve driven in. It was actually very easy, not too much traffic and after a few turns I found the station. Trained to Termini and repeated the routine of a taxi to my hotel which was supposed to be the Hotel Giardino Rome again. After lugging my suitcase up the 2 flights of stairs, Sergio informed me that my room was unavailable due to a plumbing problem. However, Katy had taken the step of reserving a single room for me at the 3* across the street, the Hotel Hiberia. The Hotel Giardino Rome picked up the difference in cost. I thought that was very good of them and I appreciated their making arrangements in advance for me. Hotel Hiberia was just a bit nicer in furnishings and bath (real water pressure in the shower!) than Giardino, but not nearly as friendly and intimate.
I arrived mid-afternoon and just spent my last afternoon and evening walking all over the city! I was done with churches and museums and I just wanted to walk, enjoy the energy of Rome and revisit some of my favorite landmarks. Stopped for a very late lunch somewhere near the Pantheon. Went to Café St. Eustachio (SP?) to pick up chocolate covered expresso beans for my best friend, then hit the gourmet shop, Chocolat, for my own addiction. Not one, but two last gellati and the best flavor yet Melon (Mango), actually it was a sorbet.
Ciao, Roma - Day 20
I had arranged with the hotel for a driver to take me to Fiumicino. He was 20 minutes late arriving so the day did not start well. I knew checking in at Alitalia would be ugly and it was. It took 45 minutes just to get anywhere near the front of the line and they finally let passengers for my flight go ahead when the clock ticked down to under an hour before departure. It was very good I checked up on the desk agent because she did not even read the itinerary I handed her. She only tagged my luggage as far as Paris and didn’t even notice the other two legs of my reservation. After two more tries, she finally got the luggage tag right.
Alitalia’s first class section wasn’t much, but then it was only a short flight to Paris. It was a clear day over the Alps and the mountains were just spectacular. Got a good view of Lake Geneva. Just barely made my connection at CDG after changing terminals and going through security once again. Then on to the “gate” and the bus that drives you out to your plane. The bus driver actually did a couple of U turns before he found the right plane!! Air France business class was very nice, but seats weren’t quite as comfortable as Delta. Loved the little glass of champagne though! Our flight ended up taking off 50 minutes late. Not good. I couldn’t sleep at all, so just read the only English language paperback I could find in CDG and tried to forget that I had paid 11.50 E for it! Finally got around to watching “Mr. & Mrs. Smith” on the screen. Loved the black humor although the concept wore thin at the end.
Unfortunately, things went downhill from here. We got into Chicago 45 minutes late and in spite of Air France’s assurances that Air France personnel would help us make our connections, there wasn’t a living soul to answer questions or give any gate information at all! I ended up missing my flight which was the last direct flight to Salt Lake. Having no choice, they put me on a commuter flight to Cincinnati (somewhere I really didn’t want to go) where I would then take another flight to SLC. This added a mere 4 hours to my travel time. Amazingly, my little suitcase made the entire trip with me! I wasn’t holding out much hope of ever seeing it again.
It was a wonderful trip and as usual I can't wait to go back! Some observations:
They now have traffic personnel with radios directing traffic through the tightest turns and squeezes on the Amalfi drive.
A huge decrease in the number of people smoking from what it was 10 years ago. Love the new anti-smoking laws for buildings, trains, and restaurants!
ITALIANS OF ALL AGES WEAR JEANS! Jeans, jeans, jeans. Everywhere, any time of day. I even saw people wearing blue jeans at a very large, very somber funeral, with their respectful black tee shirts of course.
The biggest benefit of going solo: You become so much more approachable. People will ask you questions and are much more interested in you because you are definitely not the norm. Also, because you are not so involved with your travel companion(s), you become much more observant of everything and everyone around you. A very big plus!
I know this is long and very detailed, but I’ve always picked up little pieces of useful info reading other’s trip reports. I hope some of you will get some little bits here.
Buon viaggio, Fodorites!
Oct 5th, 2005, 09:30 PM
#43
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Dear Dayle, what a beautiful, interesting and informative trip report. I know that I am not the only one that has enjoyed it so much. You are a role model for solo travel. Thank you so much for sharing your three weeks in Italy with us. I wish you many more beautiful trips!
Oct 5th, 2005, 10:15 PM
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Dayle, I have so enjoyed this trip report. Some of the places you visited brought back lovely memories of my trip this past Spring. I too, loved the little town of Spello and also Assisi.
I think it amazing that you drove yourself!! That is definitely brave.
Thanks for sharing.
Oct 6th, 2005, 07:12 AM
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Hi Dayle, I've really enjoyed your report. Too bad we weren't able to hook up in Rome (I'm in the middle of doing my report as well). Don't feel too bad about what you paid for that paperback, I paid 13.70E at the Rome airport because I really wanted something to read on the flight home!
)
Oct 6th, 2005, 07:38 AM
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Loved it Dayle..Loved it. My only time to travel in Italy was when I was 15 and on a school "art" trip. You brought a lot of life...good life things...into this report. I WOULD love to trace your trip, except a few less churches for me (yes, I know the great art is in there)...
I'll raise a glass that you get a chance to return again and again!
I'll raise a glass that you get a chance to return again and again!
Oct 6th, 2005, 08:01 AM
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Thanks everyone for your comments!
SusanP and MaitaiTom, I know we did just miss each other along the way.
Tom, we need a full trip report from you too! Please have a gellato for me - any flavor will do, but if you can find the gellateria right near the Trevi Fountain - they have Mango!
SusanP, I'm enjoying your report too!
Ciao,
Dayle
SusanP and MaitaiTom, I know we did just miss each other along the way.
Tom, we need a full trip report from you too! Please have a gellato for me - any flavor will do, but if you can find the gellateria right near the Trevi Fountain - they have Mango!
SusanP, I'm enjoying your report too!
Ciao,
Dayle
Oct 6th, 2005, 08:12 AM
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Dayle, what a great report, I enjoyed reading it to the end!
I could not get over the issue of changing planes at CDG - I almost missed my flight back to Boston! The security, TWO buses and then racing a good 3/4mile to my gate, whew!
But back to you, I too admire you for driving alone!
Thanks again for sharing so much about solo travel, too.
I could not get over the issue of changing planes at CDG - I almost missed my flight back to Boston! The security, TWO buses and then racing a good 3/4mile to my gate, whew!
But back to you, I too admire you for driving alone!
Thanks again for sharing so much about solo travel, too.
Oct 6th, 2005, 05:42 PM
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Kadurk49,
Sorry, I didn't keep their receipt. It was a company arranged by the hotel. I had thought it would be less stressful to indulge in the driver to Fiumicino. Oh well, best laid plans!
To everyone who is reluctant to drive - it really is easy! Didn't even get lost much. Made a couple goofs, but I would pull over frequently to make sure I had made the right turn, or if I though I hadn't! If you are good with maps and have a good sense of direction - no worries. Having learned to drive in a stick shift car on the southern California freeways, not much intimidates me.
I didn't however, try to drive in Rome or Naples!!
Sorry, I didn't keep their receipt. It was a company arranged by the hotel. I had thought it would be less stressful to indulge in the driver to Fiumicino. Oh well, best laid plans!
To everyone who is reluctant to drive - it really is easy! Didn't even get lost much. Made a couple goofs, but I would pull over frequently to make sure I had made the right turn, or if I though I hadn't! If you are good with maps and have a good sense of direction - no worries. Having learned to drive in a stick shift car on the southern California freeways, not much intimidates me.
I didn't however, try to drive in Rome or Naples!!
Oct 17th, 2005, 07:19 PM
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Great report, Dayle. Was it too cold to swim in Amalfi/Capri? Glad you had a good experience at del Pallaro in Rome, that was one of the meal highlights on our trip this summer. Amazing you were willing to take on Italy on your own; I've had a couple of solo business trips to Europe, and I'm pretty ready to get back home. Would you do it again by yourself?
Oct 18th, 2005, 06:06 PM
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MRand,
Grazie! Yes, people were swimming at Capri and Positano. It was quite hot. The day I took my boat tour around Capri, I just wore a tee shirt and lightweight capris (what else?) and was perfectly comfortable.
I would go solo again in a flash! It was a whole different travel experience and, I have to say a better one, in several ways.
Grazie! Yes, people were swimming at Capri and Positano. It was quite hot. The day I took my boat tour around Capri, I just wore a tee shirt and lightweight capris (what else?) and was perfectly comfortable.
I would go solo again in a flash! It was a whole different travel experience and, I have to say a better one, in several ways.
Oct 24th, 2005, 02:08 PM
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Dayle:
What a great trip report. As a fellow solo traveller I know exactly how you feel, although I'm not quite brave enough, yet, to drive there. I just got back myself - a trip with 5 other women! I am going back to solo journeys from now on. I hope to get a trip report written, but have come back to a work crisis. I love your descriptions of the food and wine. I'm with you on that one too - one of the reasons I love Italy so much and, when you are alone, and the dinner bill comes, you don't have to argue over who had the salad and who had the extra this or that, or how outrageous the service charge is. You sound like my kind of traveller.
What a great trip report. As a fellow solo traveller I know exactly how you feel, although I'm not quite brave enough, yet, to drive there. I just got back myself - a trip with 5 other women! I am going back to solo journeys from now on. I hope to get a trip report written, but have come back to a work crisis. I love your descriptions of the food and wine. I'm with you on that one too - one of the reasons I love Italy so much and, when you are alone, and the dinner bill comes, you don't have to argue over who had the salad and who had the extra this or that, or how outrageous the service charge is. You sound like my kind of traveller.
Oct 24th, 2005, 05:01 PM
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Grazie Barb!
I'll look forward to reading your report. Please don't make us wait too long! After all, which is more fun, reliving your trip or work?
I'm fortunate to have 2 very dear friends (one guy and one gal) who I have traveled with twice before. We get along great due to the fact that we are all very flexible. We have many common interests, to varying degrees of course, and try to accomodate each other's basic requirements as much as possible. They could not come this time and I missed them, but the solo trip was a whole different experience.
Driving in the Italian countryside is a piece of cake. Don't be intimidated.
Looking for your report!
I'll look forward to reading your report. Please don't make us wait too long! After all, which is more fun, reliving your trip or work?
I'm fortunate to have 2 very dear friends (one guy and one gal) who I have traveled with twice before. We get along great due to the fact that we are all very flexible. We have many common interests, to varying degrees of course, and try to accomodate each other's basic requirements as much as possible. They could not come this time and I missed them, but the solo trip was a whole different experience.
Driving in the Italian countryside is a piece of cake. Don't be intimidated.
Looking for your report!
Oct 24th, 2005, 06:39 PM
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WOW! What a trip. We will take a trip to Rome and Amalfi Coast in Nov. for 9 days. I will use your notes on our trip. I have a question. Should we plan on three nights in Rome and 5 nights in Sorrento? We thught about one night in Naples or should we stay somewhere else?? We will go back to Rome the day before our early departure. Would love to hear from you.
Marsha in Texas
Marsha in Texas
Oct 25th, 2005, 06:57 AM
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Grazie Marsha in Texas!
The Fodorites have always passed along info that has helped me, so I'm glad I can return the favor.
No need to stay in both Sorrento and Naples. They are not far apart. But how much time you spend in the south and Rome depends on what your interests are. What are you hoping to see and do?
The Fodorites have always passed along info that has helped me, so I'm glad I can return the favor.
No need to stay in both Sorrento and Naples. They are not far apart. But how much time you spend in the south and Rome depends on what your interests are. What are you hoping to see and do?
