Jamikins and Bikerscott do Barcelona and San Sebastian
May 16th, 2014, 01:19 AM
#41
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Saturday 19 April
We woke up to grey skies and rain, the first of the vacation so not too bad! Had our ritual breakfast and then headed off to find the bus to Hondarribia. The buses are very easy to find and you pay the driver – I think it cost about €3-4 each one way. The bus ride is about 20 mins if I remember correctly.
Hondarribia is a small town just north of San Sebastian on the French border. You can literally see France across the water. We took a few photos down by the port but it was raining so we headed out to find our lunch reservations. As it turns out we had taken the bus one stop too far and had to retrace our steps in the rain. Oh well, it is quite a pleasant little town and the ‘high street’ was filled with locals having their morning coffee at cafes and restaurants.
We found our way to Alameda
http://restaurantealameda.net/
Minasoroeta Kalea, 1
This meal was great as well. At first we were the only people seated, but within about 15 mins it began filling up with locals with their families enjoying a special lunch. The little elderly lady that gave us our menus was obviously in charge and immediately told us in Basque/Spanish that she didn’t speak English. Ok then haha.
They offer several differently sized tasting menus. We ordered two different menus, but both had the same 60 degree egg dish that we both wanted to try so that was good! Only thing was, after we ordered they brought out the actual menu they had that day and Scott’s egg had been replaced by black pudding ravioli!!!! I was so thankful it wasn’t mine because I couldn’t eat that much black pudding but he loved it after he got over the texture! The servings here were so huge that I didn’t finish the giant piece of fish nor the giant plate of beef. They were like normal servings sizes if you ordered that plate and only that for a meal – huge!
After a yummy lunch we wandered around the old part of the town taking photos and then decided to head back to San Sebastian as the rain was starting to get pretty heavy!
We had a short rest at the hotel and then headed out for another pinxtos crawl (a girl could get used to this!) The rain had cleared up and we sat outside this one place for a while as we had seats. Great wine and good conversation. Then Scott decided he wanted what he thought was a big bowl of calamari. When they arrived they were crispy and deep friend, but not the calamari he was dreaming of…I think they were a type of rock clam. They were tasty, but quite chewy so not exactly what he wanted hahaha!
A gelato on the way to the hotel rounded out the evening.
We woke up to grey skies and rain, the first of the vacation so not too bad! Had our ritual breakfast and then headed off to find the bus to Hondarribia. The buses are very easy to find and you pay the driver – I think it cost about €3-4 each one way. The bus ride is about 20 mins if I remember correctly.
Hondarribia is a small town just north of San Sebastian on the French border. You can literally see France across the water. We took a few photos down by the port but it was raining so we headed out to find our lunch reservations. As it turns out we had taken the bus one stop too far and had to retrace our steps in the rain. Oh well, it is quite a pleasant little town and the ‘high street’ was filled with locals having their morning coffee at cafes and restaurants.
We found our way to Alameda
http://restaurantealameda.net/
Minasoroeta Kalea, 1
This meal was great as well. At first we were the only people seated, but within about 15 mins it began filling up with locals with their families enjoying a special lunch. The little elderly lady that gave us our menus was obviously in charge and immediately told us in Basque/Spanish that she didn’t speak English. Ok then haha.
They offer several differently sized tasting menus. We ordered two different menus, but both had the same 60 degree egg dish that we both wanted to try so that was good! Only thing was, after we ordered they brought out the actual menu they had that day and Scott’s egg had been replaced by black pudding ravioli!!!! I was so thankful it wasn’t mine because I couldn’t eat that much black pudding but he loved it after he got over the texture! The servings here were so huge that I didn’t finish the giant piece of fish nor the giant plate of beef. They were like normal servings sizes if you ordered that plate and only that for a meal – huge!
After a yummy lunch we wandered around the old part of the town taking photos and then decided to head back to San Sebastian as the rain was starting to get pretty heavy!
We had a short rest at the hotel and then headed out for another pinxtos crawl (a girl could get used to this!) The rain had cleared up and we sat outside this one place for a while as we had seats. Great wine and good conversation. Then Scott decided he wanted what he thought was a big bowl of calamari. When they arrived they were crispy and deep friend, but not the calamari he was dreaming of…I think they were a type of rock clam. They were tasty, but quite chewy so not exactly what he wanted hahaha!
A gelato on the way to the hotel rounded out the evening.
May 16th, 2014, 05:13 AM
#42
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Sunday 20 April
Another rainy day, but we only had one thing planned today and it was indoors. Today was our big splurge as we had reservations at Martin Berasategui, one of the 3 star restaurants in San Sebastian.
http://www.martinberasategui.com/en/inicio
We had to go for the tasting menu and it was AMAZING.
This isn’t the exact menu we had but it is most of the dishes and gives you an idea of what to expect (the year is the year he added it to his menu):
1995 Mille-feuille of smoked eel, foie-gras, spring onions and green apple
2001 Squid soup, creamy squid ink ravioli served with squid crouton
THIS WILL BE FOLLOWED BY:
2011 Oyster with cucumber, sour fruit, kafir and coconut
2013 Sauteed black garlic with beet ceviche, ice radish and raifort cream
2014 Raw asparagus stalks blended with “Idiazábal” whey and hints of aniseed
2013 Roast foie gras with seaweed resting on horseradish curd, fermented soy broth and hazelnut salt
2011 “Gorrotxategi” egg resting on a liquid salad of red tubers and dewlap carpaccio
2001 Vegetable hearts salad with seafood, cream of lettuce and iodized juice
2014 Sea bass fillets over barnacle “marinière” sauce, crispy egg yolk and extract of green asparagus and spinach
2014 Roasted pigeon served with its juices mixed with dead olives, liquid tubers stuffed with truffles
and cucumber pickled in white vinegar and curry
AND DESSERTS TO FINISH
2014 Foi-gras nougat with hints of apple, red wine and black sesame crisp
2014 Smoked sponge with cocoa crunch, frozen whisky cream, crushed ice, green beans and mint
This was an unreal experience – fabulous service, impeccable food, and great company! It isn’t for the faint of heart, there were some interesting combos but we enjoyed it. It took about 3.5 hours so basically most of the afternoon. The plates were like pieces of art, each very colourful, full of flavour and perfectly matched with wines. Extravagant but we had saved up for the splurge.
I didn’t want to bring my big camera to photograph the food as it would spoil the atmosphere, but I did discretely take some photos on my iphone: https://www.flickr.com/photos/pug_gi...7644738309113/
We rolled home and had a rest to digest for a while then again went out on the town, more for a walk and drinks than food!!!
Another rainy day, but we only had one thing planned today and it was indoors. Today was our big splurge as we had reservations at Martin Berasategui, one of the 3 star restaurants in San Sebastian.
http://www.martinberasategui.com/en/inicio
We had to go for the tasting menu and it was AMAZING.
This isn’t the exact menu we had but it is most of the dishes and gives you an idea of what to expect (the year is the year he added it to his menu):
1995 Mille-feuille of smoked eel, foie-gras, spring onions and green apple
2001 Squid soup, creamy squid ink ravioli served with squid crouton
THIS WILL BE FOLLOWED BY:
2011 Oyster with cucumber, sour fruit, kafir and coconut
2013 Sauteed black garlic with beet ceviche, ice radish and raifort cream
2014 Raw asparagus stalks blended with “Idiazábal” whey and hints of aniseed
2013 Roast foie gras with seaweed resting on horseradish curd, fermented soy broth and hazelnut salt
2011 “Gorrotxategi” egg resting on a liquid salad of red tubers and dewlap carpaccio
2001 Vegetable hearts salad with seafood, cream of lettuce and iodized juice
2014 Sea bass fillets over barnacle “marinière” sauce, crispy egg yolk and extract of green asparagus and spinach
2014 Roasted pigeon served with its juices mixed with dead olives, liquid tubers stuffed with truffles
and cucumber pickled in white vinegar and curry
AND DESSERTS TO FINISH
2014 Foi-gras nougat with hints of apple, red wine and black sesame crisp
2014 Smoked sponge with cocoa crunch, frozen whisky cream, crushed ice, green beans and mint
This was an unreal experience – fabulous service, impeccable food, and great company! It isn’t for the faint of heart, there were some interesting combos but we enjoyed it. It took about 3.5 hours so basically most of the afternoon. The plates were like pieces of art, each very colourful, full of flavour and perfectly matched with wines. Extravagant but we had saved up for the splurge.
I didn’t want to bring my big camera to photograph the food as it would spoil the atmosphere, but I did discretely take some photos on my iphone: https://www.flickr.com/photos/pug_gi...7644738309113/
We rolled home and had a rest to digest for a while then again went out on the town, more for a walk and drinks than food!!!
May 16th, 2014, 06:55 AM
#43
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Monday 21 April
This day we woke up to another beautiful day! After our regular breakfast we wandered up around the old port and ended up munching on pintxos for lunch, including the best cheesecake at La Vina!! We spent a long time relaxing in the sun in the main square with wine as well. We loved just sitting there chatting while watching all the children play in the centre. The square is surrounded by lovely old buildings with strange numbering. The numbering started at the first door on the top left of the first building and went all around the three buildings surrounding the square, then continued on the next story down and went around all three buildings and then down etc. We asked why as we couldn’t figure out a reason and apparently they were numbered like this as the government would rent out the balconies during the bull fights in the square!
Dinner was at a lousy place I can’t remember the name of, but not worth mentioning. And after that we packed up and headed to bed! A really relaxing day!
Tuesday 22 April
We packed up and paid and took a taxi to the bus station to catch the bus to Bilbao airport. We had some trouble finding the place to buy the tickets, but after asking at a nearby hotel we had tickets in hand in a few minutes. It was an easy 1 hour ride and we were in the airport with lots of time to spare. We then flew back to London and were in our flat by about 4pm! Enough time for a take-away curry and do laundry!
All in all it was a fabulous vacation! The weather held up except for 2 days, we ate some wonderful food and saw some fantastic sites. Barcelona turned out to be one of our favourite cities!
If anyone has any questions I would have happy to respond.
Happy travels everyone!
Jamikins and Bikerscott
This day we woke up to another beautiful day! After our regular breakfast we wandered up around the old port and ended up munching on pintxos for lunch, including the best cheesecake at La Vina!! We spent a long time relaxing in the sun in the main square with wine as well. We loved just sitting there chatting while watching all the children play in the centre. The square is surrounded by lovely old buildings with strange numbering. The numbering started at the first door on the top left of the first building and went all around the three buildings surrounding the square, then continued on the next story down and went around all three buildings and then down etc. We asked why as we couldn’t figure out a reason and apparently they were numbered like this as the government would rent out the balconies during the bull fights in the square!
Dinner was at a lousy place I can’t remember the name of, but not worth mentioning. And after that we packed up and headed to bed! A really relaxing day!
Tuesday 22 April
We packed up and paid and took a taxi to the bus station to catch the bus to Bilbao airport. We had some trouble finding the place to buy the tickets, but after asking at a nearby hotel we had tickets in hand in a few minutes. It was an easy 1 hour ride and we were in the airport with lots of time to spare. We then flew back to London and were in our flat by about 4pm! Enough time for a take-away curry and do laundry!
All in all it was a fabulous vacation! The weather held up except for 2 days, we ate some wonderful food and saw some fantastic sites. Barcelona turned out to be one of our favourite cities!
If anyone has any questions I would have happy to respond.
Happy travels everyone!
Jamikins and Bikerscott
May 16th, 2014, 05:28 PM
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That was an astounding vacation. What a grand success! Now next year, you might cast your attention East. We had an amazing trip to India in February. It is SO much easier for y'all as you don't have to deal with the 27 hour flight plans, but do check out the possibilities. (and that forum isn't nearly as snarky as the European one).
I really had not considered it as a "must" on my list of places to go until I saw a friends' photos and started researching. Picked an Indian TA from Fodors' forum recs and wow. You can do a lot of it on your own, but then, you can also work with someone who does all the busy work for you. Talk about foodie heaven...I was blown away. The only real compromise you need to make is in drinking beer instead of wine. Trust me on that. It IS an incredible travel value.
I really had not considered it as a "must" on my list of places to go until I saw a friends' photos and started researching. Picked an Indian TA from Fodors' forum recs and wow. You can do a lot of it on your own, but then, you can also work with someone who does all the busy work for you. Talk about foodie heaven...I was blown away. The only real compromise you need to make is in drinking beer instead of wine. Trust me on that. It IS an incredible travel value.
May 18th, 2014, 06:40 AM
#49
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Excellent photos! The "calamares" thing in San Sebastián looks like it's fried baby squids (chupitos/puntillitas), so not that far away ;-)
http://www.simplespanishfood.com/201...uttlefish.html
http://www.simplespanishfood.com/201...uttlefish.html
May 18th, 2014, 03:07 PM
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Hi jamikins.......I too have given Fodors a bit of a rest of late...but always nice to read one or your T/R's. I have been following along with your photos on Flickr.....you sure have got me hooked.
We loved San Sebastian last year, and after a month in Spain rated it as our favourite Tapas city.
We loved San Sebastian last year, and after a month in Spain rated it as our favourite Tapas city.
May 18th, 2014, 04:14 PM
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Hi jamikins,
Thanks for the wonderful trip report and pictures. The pictures really inspired me as I am going to Paris on Friday and was not in photographer mode. Always love to see the old regulars posting and sorry you have had a less than positive vibes om this website.
Thanks for the wonderful trip report and pictures. The pictures really inspired me as I am going to Paris on Friday and was not in photographer mode. Always love to see the old regulars posting and sorry you have had a less than positive vibes om this website.
May 19th, 2014, 10:35 AM
#56
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Hi guys, I am glad I posted as well...I think I will just be selective when posting from now on. But your lovely comments are very appreciated!
I also really appreciate the kind comments on the photos!! Aussiedreamer, Flickr is addicting isn't it...I keep up with your photos as well
Next trip up is a week of cooking lessons in a chalet in the French Alps, followed by a week in Alsace...we leave Friday so stay tuned...
I also really appreciate the kind comments on the photos!! Aussiedreamer, Flickr is addicting isn't it...I keep up with your photos as well
Next trip up is a week of cooking lessons in a chalet in the French Alps, followed by a week in Alsace...we leave Friday so stay tuned...
May 19th, 2014, 12:04 PM
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Glad to see your TR, Jamikins! I was wondering whether Le Marche had swallowed all your travel time. BTW, I actually thought of you while DH and I were in China. Sadly, it was while experiencing a mighty deep funk about the lack of good (or affordable wine). I told myself that you and BikerScott would never find yourself on holiday without planning access to decent alcoholic beverages. In any case, I was certain you were enjoying a great glass of wine while I...wasn't. ;/)
Looking forward to your next trip...
-Annie
Looking forward to your next trip...
-Annie
May 19th, 2014, 10:22 PM
#59
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Thanks Annie...hilarious about your china trip! Making a note if we ever go to China...ensure availability of wine!!
We are branching out a bit this year but Le Marche for two weeks in Aug so we are going back haha!
We are branching out a bit this year but Le Marche for two weeks in Aug so we are going back haha!
May 19th, 2014, 11:36 PM
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So envious on how 'easy' it is for you guys to travel.......its such a long way to 'anywhere' for us that it kinda has to be a full on 6 week trip.
sigh, I too shall live vicariously through your photos............for now ;-)
sigh, I too shall live vicariously through your photos............for now ;-)
