Jamikins and Bikerscott do Barcelona and San Sebastian
May 14th, 2014, 03:41 PM
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Jamie! What a welcome sight it is to see this TR!
A usual, your words and photographs have me struggling to resist the urge to immediately book a visit. You really did Barca quite nicely in the couple days you had. And despite Scott's protests your shots at Parc Guell are amazing - and would have been impossible had you not been there early. When we were there shortly after opening it was thronged.
[That patata brava pic has me drooling all over the keyboard.]
Glad you managed to avoid pickpockets, too. Of course, what petty thief in their right mind would target so obviously cosmopolitan a couple as you two? I, too, confess being a bit nervous before arriving but left, as you did, with a much more positive feeling about the city. Of course it's the thieves one does not see that are the problem but there have been so many near panic reports on here and other travel boards that it was a real relief to walk around with no more than the usual common sense precautions and do just fine.
Looking forward to the next chapter....
A usual, your words and photographs have me struggling to resist the urge to immediately book a visit. You really did Barca quite nicely in the couple days you had. And despite Scott's protests your shots at Parc Guell are amazing - and would have been impossible had you not been there early. When we were there shortly after opening it was thronged.
[That patata brava pic has me drooling all over the keyboard.]
Glad you managed to avoid pickpockets, too. Of course, what petty thief in their right mind would target so obviously cosmopolitan a couple as you two? I, too, confess being a bit nervous before arriving but left, as you did, with a much more positive feeling about the city. Of course it's the thieves one does not see that are the problem but there have been so many near panic reports on here and other travel boards that it was a real relief to walk around with no more than the usual common sense precautions and do just fine.
Looking forward to the next chapter....
May 15th, 2014, 12:07 AM
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Good morning! So glad you are enjoying – we were really not sure whether to continue posting but if it is helpful to people and enjoyable then it is worth it!
Zanne – we didn’t do any tours but you may want to post separately so others can help. Be sure to give a budget in €€s so people can recommend hotels.
Maitaitom – I hope you love Barcelona as much as we did!
Elizabeth_S – Glad you are enjoying the report and photos. It is a shame the atmosphere has changed as I am likely not to post as much as I don’t like the judgments and aggression of some posters directed at me. Definitely not fun and this should be fun right? We are all here to help, or I am anyways!
AGM – cant wait to read your report as well!
Ekscrunchy – glad you are enjoying the report
Crennaker – will get to the rest of the San Sebastian part today!
Tomarkot – we enjoyed your report as well and you are most welcome
Debinthepeg – love the name, guessing you are from Manitoba? We are from the West Coast!
Seamus – Glad to have you on board! I’d like to think we are cosmopolitan but I am not sure somedays hahaha
So good to know everyone is reading along and enjoying…so back to the report:
Thursday 17 April
Woke up quite late (this was the relaxing part of our vacation) to a brilliantly sunny day! We wandered a block or two then found ‘our’ bakery to have a cappuccino and delicious doughnuts!!! YUM! After that we were drawn to the gorgeous beach. It was April weather back in London so we had not even thought about bringing beach gear (or even shorts!) so we hiked up our trousers and waded in.
This beach is amazing. Gorgeous sand, very shallow and just beautiful. We walked across it slowly admiring the views. They clean it up every morning too so you don’t have any seaweed or anything left on the beach from the tide. We did notice how clean these two cities were – spotless!
We headed to the square in the old part of town for munchies for lunch, and of course wine! Settled down at a table and were completely ignored!! Yes it was busy, yes we made eye contact with the waiter (3-4 times!) and he just never came to get our order. Finally Scott went up to the counter inside and even there the server ignored him and helped people behind him. We had no idea what we had done to get such treatment but that was easy to remedy – we got up and walked across the square to a friendly place happy to serve us. And that is where we spent all our time and cash for the rest of the week in that square!
After a few hours of relaxing in the sun and grazing on pintxos we slowly found our way back to our hotel and had a nap. After the early starts in Barcelona we were allowing ourselves some time to refresh and recharge.
Tummies growling woke us up and we headed back into the old town to do a pintxos crawl. We tried a few new places, revisted a few or our favourites from the night before and had a great time!
Tomorrow we hit a cidre house…
Zanne – we didn’t do any tours but you may want to post separately so others can help. Be sure to give a budget in €€s so people can recommend hotels.
Maitaitom – I hope you love Barcelona as much as we did!
Elizabeth_S – Glad you are enjoying the report and photos. It is a shame the atmosphere has changed as I am likely not to post as much as I don’t like the judgments and aggression of some posters directed at me. Definitely not fun and this should be fun right? We are all here to help, or I am anyways!
AGM – cant wait to read your report as well!
Ekscrunchy – glad you are enjoying the report
Crennaker – will get to the rest of the San Sebastian part today!
Tomarkot – we enjoyed your report as well and you are most welcome
Debinthepeg – love the name, guessing you are from Manitoba? We are from the West Coast!
Seamus – Glad to have you on board! I’d like to think we are cosmopolitan but I am not sure somedays hahaha
So good to know everyone is reading along and enjoying…so back to the report:
Thursday 17 April
Woke up quite late (this was the relaxing part of our vacation) to a brilliantly sunny day! We wandered a block or two then found ‘our’ bakery to have a cappuccino and delicious doughnuts!!! YUM! After that we were drawn to the gorgeous beach. It was April weather back in London so we had not even thought about bringing beach gear (or even shorts!) so we hiked up our trousers and waded in.
This beach is amazing. Gorgeous sand, very shallow and just beautiful. We walked across it slowly admiring the views. They clean it up every morning too so you don’t have any seaweed or anything left on the beach from the tide. We did notice how clean these two cities were – spotless!
We headed to the square in the old part of town for munchies for lunch, and of course wine! Settled down at a table and were completely ignored!! Yes it was busy, yes we made eye contact with the waiter (3-4 times!) and he just never came to get our order. Finally Scott went up to the counter inside and even there the server ignored him and helped people behind him. We had no idea what we had done to get such treatment but that was easy to remedy – we got up and walked across the square to a friendly place happy to serve us. And that is where we spent all our time and cash for the rest of the week in that square!
After a few hours of relaxing in the sun and grazing on pintxos we slowly found our way back to our hotel and had a nap. After the early starts in Barcelona we were allowing ourselves some time to refresh and recharge.
Tummies growling woke us up and we headed back into the old town to do a pintxos crawl. We tried a few new places, revisted a few or our favourites from the night before and had a great time!
Tomorrow we hit a cidre house…
May 15th, 2014, 02:15 AM
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Great report!
<lots of pinxtos with prawns on ‘Russian Salad’ a type of mayonnaise based ‘coleslaw’, anchovies etc. So if you don’t enjoy that type of thing you may want to do some research into other places to eat>
That's the cold pintxos on display at the counters in most bars. The warm and often meat-based house specialities are made directly on order everywhere. Some examples:
The Sirloin steak at Gandarias: http://www.todopintxos.com/pintxos/p...verficha&id=27
Chorizo cider style: http://www.todopintxos.com/pintxos/p...86&do=verficha
Filet of duck: http://www.todopintxos.com/pintxos/p...69&do=verficha
Burger: http://www.todopintxos.com/pintxos/p...30&do=verficha
Foie with apple compote: http://www.todopintxos.com/pintxos/p...30&do=verficha
The fabulous braised veal cheeks in red wine sauce: http://www.todopintxos.com/pintxos/p...57&do=verficha
Makes me want to go back to my favourite city on the planet directly ;-)
<lots of pinxtos with prawns on ‘Russian Salad’ a type of mayonnaise based ‘coleslaw’, anchovies etc. So if you don’t enjoy that type of thing you may want to do some research into other places to eat>
That's the cold pintxos on display at the counters in most bars. The warm and often meat-based house specialities are made directly on order everywhere. Some examples:
The Sirloin steak at Gandarias: http://www.todopintxos.com/pintxos/p...verficha&id=27
Chorizo cider style: http://www.todopintxos.com/pintxos/p...86&do=verficha
Filet of duck: http://www.todopintxos.com/pintxos/p...69&do=verficha
Burger: http://www.todopintxos.com/pintxos/p...30&do=verficha
Foie with apple compote: http://www.todopintxos.com/pintxos/p...30&do=verficha
The fabulous braised veal cheeks in red wine sauce: http://www.todopintxos.com/pintxos/p...57&do=verficha
Makes me want to go back to my favourite city on the planet directly ;-)
May 15th, 2014, 05:16 AM
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Friday 18 April
We woke up to another fabulous blue sky and having checked the forecast for the weekend decided to enjoy the sun on the beach today. We grabbed our kindles and after more doughnuts and coffee we walked the whole way round the beach and found a spot halfway in the sun and halfway in the shade (I am not a sun person). We spent quite a few hours relaxing and reading and both of us ended up a little pink!
Our mission next was to find somewhere to eat lunch. The Victorian-esque boardwalk around the beach didn’t really have anywhere to eat or drink on it but we did find a couple cafes – but they were too busy and it took forever to get services so we left. We ended up eating again in the pinxtos places and drinking wine for the afternoon.
I was particularly excited about our evening festivities! I had made a reservation for a cidre house in the neighbouring town Astigarraga, where a lot of cidre houses are located. We hopped in a taxi and arrived at Petretegi www.petritegi.com around 20:45. And we entered the hall. This place is huge, it seats 700 and is regularly sold out. I had made reservations a month or so prior. They didn’t speak much English but handed us our cidre glasses, showed us the giant room where they keep the casks of cidre and we learned how to get our own cidre from the stream coming from the top of the cask. It creates the fizz as it hits the glass! This was self-serve so you come and get your own drinks from this room as much as you like throughout the night!
Once that was done they showed us to our seats. These were big long tables filled with Basque families and large groups of friends…and us haha. The large group of young people next to us engaged us throughout the evening and were good fun.
The food was good too! We started out with a large baguette and then a giant salt cod omelette. I should fess up now – I do not like salt cod. I have now tried it many times and it just doesn’t do it for me! So Scott ate most of that. Then came salt cod with fried peppers on it – again Scott enjoyed most of that! Then came the main event – a giant grilled steak reminiscent of our Florentine steak last year! Delicious. Following this came cheese with chutney and walnuts, and then cookies. All washed down with delicious cidre!! The atmosphere was the best bit. All the Basque people enjoying a Friday night out – perfect!
A short taxi rive got us back to our hotel around midnight and we crashed for the evening.
Off to Hondaribbia in the morning!
We woke up to another fabulous blue sky and having checked the forecast for the weekend decided to enjoy the sun on the beach today. We grabbed our kindles and after more doughnuts and coffee we walked the whole way round the beach and found a spot halfway in the sun and halfway in the shade (I am not a sun person). We spent quite a few hours relaxing and reading and both of us ended up a little pink!
Our mission next was to find somewhere to eat lunch. The Victorian-esque boardwalk around the beach didn’t really have anywhere to eat or drink on it but we did find a couple cafes – but they were too busy and it took forever to get services so we left. We ended up eating again in the pinxtos places and drinking wine for the afternoon.
I was particularly excited about our evening festivities! I had made a reservation for a cidre house in the neighbouring town Astigarraga, where a lot of cidre houses are located. We hopped in a taxi and arrived at Petretegi www.petritegi.com around 20:45. And we entered the hall. This place is huge, it seats 700 and is regularly sold out. I had made reservations a month or so prior. They didn’t speak much English but handed us our cidre glasses, showed us the giant room where they keep the casks of cidre and we learned how to get our own cidre from the stream coming from the top of the cask. It creates the fizz as it hits the glass! This was self-serve so you come and get your own drinks from this room as much as you like throughout the night!
Once that was done they showed us to our seats. These were big long tables filled with Basque families and large groups of friends…and us haha. The large group of young people next to us engaged us throughout the evening and were good fun.
The food was good too! We started out with a large baguette and then a giant salt cod omelette. I should fess up now – I do not like salt cod. I have now tried it many times and it just doesn’t do it for me! So Scott ate most of that. Then came salt cod with fried peppers on it – again Scott enjoyed most of that! Then came the main event – a giant grilled steak reminiscent of our Florentine steak last year! Delicious. Following this came cheese with chutney and walnuts, and then cookies. All washed down with delicious cidre!! The atmosphere was the best bit. All the Basque people enjoying a Friday night out – perfect!
A short taxi rive got us back to our hotel around midnight and we crashed for the evening.
Off to Hondaribbia in the morning!
May 15th, 2014, 05:37 AM
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Jamie...I'm really enjoying your report. I fell pretty hard for San Sebastian on my visit a few years ago and reading this report has me longing to return!
I understand how you felt about writing/posting a trip report. I felt the same way about my trip to Sicily in early March. Like you I did write the report and enjoyed doing it, but lately I've been hesitant to "hit " the submit button, so glad you did for this adventure! ;-)
I understand how you felt about writing/posting a trip report. I felt the same way about my trip to Sicily in early March. Like you I did write the report and enjoyed doing it, but lately I've been hesitant to "hit " the submit button, so glad you did for this adventure! ;-)
May 15th, 2014, 06:35 AM
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This brings back so many memories! Great that you visited the sidreria! I've never done that but will now put it on my list for a return visit to the Basque areas…hopefully before too long (2015?) Did you mention the price of the taxi??? Approximately?
Like the others, this report showcases your terrific attitude! So glad you had a great trip!!
Like the others, this report showcases your terrific attitude! So glad you had a great trip!!
May 15th, 2014, 06:55 AM
#29
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The sidreria was great fun and I think the taxi was at most €20 each way (if that). I would highly recommend it - even if you dont like the salt cod! (Phew - at least I am not the only one!!)
I am glad I decided to post the report, and I am very happy you are all enjoying it! Allows me to live it again and help others out. More to come...
I am glad I decided to post the report, and I am very happy you are all enjoying it! Allows me to live it again and help others out. More to come...
May 15th, 2014, 07:26 AM
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mikelg - you are so right - we chose it because it was the most easily accessible of the ones I found - English website, email reservations. I know not the best criteria but we just went with it.
We actually expected it to be WAY more touristy but we were the only tourists in site that we could tell so we were pleasantly surprised!
We actually expected it to be WAY more touristy but we were the only tourists in site that we could tell so we were pleasantly surprised!
May 15th, 2014, 08:38 AM
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Thanks for posting this jamikins! Super shots. DH and I never had any problem in Barcelona either--we also took subway as our hotel was too far away from the centre to walk.
San Sebastian sounds incredible. Nice TR!
San Sebastian sounds incredible. Nice TR!
May 15th, 2014, 09:47 AM
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I think its about 8 years since we "did" the Basque country. Sounds like you are enjoying it greatly. It was rainy the day we pulled into San Sebastien, so after lunch we took off and ended up in Leiketo. But that was when one could just "road trip" w/o reservations. One of our favorite trips, ever. I'm loving your report.
May 15th, 2014, 01:18 PM
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Well, most of them are in Hernani and Astigarraga, and hidden in the caserios (farms) in the valleys...I love one called Artola, www.artolasagardotegia.com, also a cozy rural lodging...the whole family in the kitchen and serving the food, grandpa in the big cider barrels, big boy grilling the steaks...and a very good atmosphere. Season starts in January and ends now in May, but the most touristy ones will be open longer.
May 15th, 2014, 01:19 PM
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May 15th, 2014, 03:14 PM
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Happily followed your detailed Barcelona portion, Jamikins, as I will be in that city for two days this October on my own in front of a several city Spain tour. Not having been to the country before and traveling as a solo female senior, it's good to hear your positive impressions.
I will also be staying at a hotel on Las Ramblas. Is your first night restaurant close tomthat area? Your description of it sounds amazing and I would love to have lunch there. As a general rule, did you dine late, a la Espanol style? What time did you venture out for dinner? Thanks for any detail you can provide.
So glad to read your very entertaining report. Sorry I won't be going to Basque Country, maybe next time. More please!
I will also be staying at a hotel on Las Ramblas. Is your first night restaurant close tomthat area? Your description of it sounds amazing and I would love to have lunch there. As a general rule, did you dine late, a la Espanol style? What time did you venture out for dinner? Thanks for any detail you can provide.
So glad to read your very entertaining report. Sorry I won't be going to Basque Country, maybe next time. More please!
May 15th, 2014, 07:52 PM
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travelchat,
If you mean Tickets, it's no lunch, only dinner (opens at 7pm). 5 minutes taxi or 20 mins walking from Las Ramblas (Avinguda del Paraŀlel, 164). Reservations can only be done online, and you have to do it exactly on midnight Barcelona time 60 days prior to your visit. All tables are normally gone ten minutes after midnight. It's amazing! On the world's 100 best restaurant list the year after it opened in 2011. This year # 57: http://www.theworlds50best.com/list/...inners#t51-100
Info and online booking: http://www.ticketsbar.es/web/en/
Most restaurants in Barcelona open for dinner at 9pm. For a traditional Catalan lunch close to Las Ramblas, I can recommend Barcelona classic Can Culleretes from 1786: http://www.culleretes.com/
http://11870.com/pro/can-culleretes
If you mean Tickets, it's no lunch, only dinner (opens at 7pm). 5 minutes taxi or 20 mins walking from Las Ramblas (Avinguda del Paraŀlel, 164). Reservations can only be done online, and you have to do it exactly on midnight Barcelona time 60 days prior to your visit. All tables are normally gone ten minutes after midnight. It's amazing! On the world's 100 best restaurant list the year after it opened in 2011. This year # 57: http://www.theworlds50best.com/list/...inners#t51-100
Info and online booking: http://www.ticketsbar.es/web/en/
Most restaurants in Barcelona open for dinner at 9pm. For a traditional Catalan lunch close to Las Ramblas, I can recommend Barcelona classic Can Culleretes from 1786: http://www.culleretes.com/
http://11870.com/pro/can-culleretes
May 16th, 2014, 12:20 AM
#39
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Thanks for the kind words and encouragement
Tickets is actually open for lunch on Saturday from 13:00 - 15:30 per their website.
Travelchat - I am sure you will have a fab time solo. Tickets was easy to get to, we actually just took the metro 1 stop from our hotel, and as kimhe states above you can walk it or take a taxi too. This dinner was definitely the most fun dinner we had - would love to go back!
We did eat late, usually at 21:00, after a day or so you just get into the swing of it! Lunches were usually at 14:00 or 14:30.
Hope this helps...will post more later...
Tickets is actually open for lunch on Saturday from 13:00 - 15:30 per their website.
Travelchat - I am sure you will have a fab time solo. Tickets was easy to get to, we actually just took the metro 1 stop from our hotel, and as kimhe states above you can walk it or take a taxi too. This dinner was definitely the most fun dinner we had - would love to go back!
We did eat late, usually at 21:00, after a day or so you just get into the swing of it! Lunches were usually at 14:00 or 14:30.
Hope this helps...will post more later...
