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Jack in the Green: a Cotswolds TR

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Jack in the Green: a Cotswolds TR

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Old Jul 18th, 2023, 04:44 PM
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Jack in the Green: a Cotswolds TR

(sound of sheep)
Hi folks,
We now pivot from graffiti-scrawled Brick Lane to the green pastures of the northern Cotswolds. My wife and I wanted a contrast with the BIG city and decided to rent a cottage in Chipping Campden. By design, we chose dates that included that village's annual Olympiks/Scuttlebrook Wake fest, the historic celebration which had previously been cancelled during covid. There was also then summat about a Platinum Jubilee. "To be honest Zebec, I'm not sure whether your choices are inspired or insane!" quipped Deirdre. She and I were once schoolmates about a thousand years ago. As luck would have it, Deirdre and her husband Robin lived close by in Broadway village. More about that wonderful coincidence later (*Shakespeare fans take note).
Daytrips included: Ilmington, Broadway, Snowshill, Stanton, Stanway, Lower Slaughter plus Kiftsgate and Hidcote gardens.
As always, we will include music here in an effort to approximate the feel of the place, or at least representative of certain eras nation-wide. Our Cotswold coverage begins with an overview. Clicking on images will produce clearer viewing results.
Enjoy.

We loved the bucolic area. All rolling green hills, dew-soaked meadows and picturesque landscape. It is indeed beautiful. We shall henceforth refer to Chipping Campden as 'CC'.

Here is a map showing the Northern Cotswolds. It was displayed under lights in the Tourism office's hall. I want to give a shout-out here to Richard, a Tourism staffer who was very helpful indeed when we had a hundred queries. Another shout-out to staff next door at the public Library where Charlotte and Herme tolerated our tech shortcomings and held our hands to keep us from crying. We needed a hug.

Some smug local critics are quick to point out that the local 'chocolate box' villages are overly prettified and too touristy. They cite towns in other English regions as being less commercial and somehow more authentic. Whatever. We loved CC and its surrounding area.

An interesting sign.

A classic Cotswold image. Btw, Caroline Mills' Bradt guidebook for the Cotswolds is an excellent choice.

Mrs Evans was the new Head of Shipston High School. Above was her latest bulletin, now a year old as is our trip. Rock fans may be interested to know a certain former-singer for a local rockin' band (if memory serves, twas 'Fred Zeppelin' or somesuch) comes to the clock shop guy in Shipston to have his antique watch collection serviced. I understand that he's quite famous. That vocalist I mean.

The golden hour in a gold stone town. Stone tones in the Cotswolds are warmer in the north. Buildings with the honey-coloured stone became so admired in the once-and-again affluent Cotswolds, that London's St. Paul's Cathedral was built from local quarries. *this shot was taken through a window.

Hopley's Green in CC.

Perhaps this old jigsaw puzzle dates from the childhood of some forum members here?

The Ernest Wilson Memorial Garden is a delightful hidden oasis in CC. As Nelson & AnnHig and others are aware, Ernest Henry 'Chinese' Wilson was one of the greatest 20th century plant collectors. Several of the 1,200 species that he brought back to England from China could fairly be described as 'exotic rarities'. We'd certainly never seen them before. His accomplishments included collecting over 100,000 herbarium specimens--some done after he'd been seriously injured! Lazy bugger.

CC is also associated with the Arts and Crafts movement founded in late Victorian England. William Morris fans here already knew that.

This Bulldog seemed to be enjoying life in CC.

The fierce bonfire that always signals an end to the Olympiks (aka Robert Dover's Games). The fire is traditionally lit right after the fireworks display and right before the Torchlit Procession, when the audience walks en masse from the remote Dovers Hill back to CC. A Swindon fellow with a podcast interviewed us live during that procession. He sought our impressions as tourists. *more about those wacky games later.

G'day. Welcome to Ilmington, population 800. My name is I.M. Gothlamm. Round about 30 years ago, I was taken against my will and had all my black wool sheared off so that Princess Di might have a lovely sweater. Cor Blimey, now Sothebys is asking $80,000 Yank dollars for it! I haven't seen a bleedin' penny, not one cent. Promised royalties have never materialized for me. Any interested lawyers, please contact me at: Ilmington, past the fishpond next to Foxcote House.

CC is blessed with a trio of really good delis. Self-caterers will want for nothing. More on this later.

Local plant fossils.

A costumed Scuttlebrook Wake parade member making his displeasure with PM Boris known. He was not alone--see later.

The entire town was excited about the Queen's Jubilee.

A bit more of Hidcote Garden will be featured further down the road in this report.

A hearty traditional breakfast.

A hearty traditional um, tonic.

Lower Slaughter millpond reflection.

A hiker on the famed Cotswolds Way.

This was one of the lovely actresses from the Stratford-based company that performed Shakespeare's 'As You Like It' outdoors by CC's St. James Church in Baptist Hicks land. Awesome. Its the only word for the way that the historic setting was combined with great acting and good cheer in the countryside. To experience it with friends was a top highlight for this trip (more about this later). End of Overview. Next: a pair of songs.

Last edited by zebec; Jul 18th, 2023 at 05:34 PM.
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Old Jul 18th, 2023, 05:15 PM
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Old Jul 18th, 2023, 05:18 PM
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Zebec, I am excited to see this. We want to visit the Cotswolds in a few years in addition to the Lake District and a re-visit to London.
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Old Jul 18th, 2023, 05:21 PM
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Well then, this song goes out to Karen and her husbear.
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Old Jul 18th, 2023, 06:07 PM
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More fotos to come later.
Ways of Knowing the Cotswolds: the Senses
*plz don't hesitate to add your own here below.

Sights:
-the Kiftsgate Gardens Lower Garden pool vista by Summer House; it looks onto the vale of Evesham, that bountiful heartland where one of Macca's daughters apparently lives.
-Stanway House's tri-storied and triple-gabled gatehouse festooned with the Ukrainian flag, while its famed fountain (tallest in Britain) shoots 300' into the air.
-CC's schoolkids joining round the maypole in dance during the Scuttlebrook Wake.
-lovely Mullion windows in buttery yellow stone.
-___________? (please enter your faves here)

Smells:
-early morning woodsmoke as you set out on another leg of the Cotswold way hike.
-any number of fragrant flowers on a summer's morn; CC's private gardens would give any town a run for its money!
-___________?

Touches:
-*I asked Mrs Z for her opinion on this one. She offered:
-the green grass below as one watched the Olympiks from a nearby hill, plus the same sensation while watching an outdoors Shakespearean play.
-a bottle of powerful cider, surprisingly lukewarm as is the local custom; sheep wool clothing.
-___________?

Tastes:
-Sunday roast @Ilmington's wonderful Howard Arms; multiple desserts @Mickleton's 'Pudding Club' events.
-___________?

Sounds:
-baaaa....baaaaa...baaaaa..............
-no surprises (hi ANUJ), see below.
-___________?

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Old Jul 18th, 2023, 06:13 PM
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A song that we all can relate to, especially more so as we age.
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Old Jul 18th, 2023, 07:02 PM
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Local artwork. Cheeky like.

We placed petals into the basin of our rental's fountain. This intrigued the local doves plus their offspring (see below). Pretty sure that it also baffled our landlady.

Baby birds. After plotting the overthrow of Boris, they flew off for good the morn of our departure. Ironic timing, yeah?

Buttery yellow stone is everywhere in CC.

That changes throughout the day. Purists decry modern stonework due to its uniformity and clean cookie-cutter approach. For them, the worst is when walls are painted or cap-stone-topped. Sacrilege. For the old-fashioned and inflexible, only rough-dressed, non-uniform stonework is acceptable, its unevenness in keeping with ages past. To score points with that crowd, name drop 'Quoinstone' and 'ironstone' traditions. Mention modern timber weatherboard or mock Tudor appearances at your own risk.

Spot Mrs Z.

In the evening shade, it turns a different colour.

Tea at Badger's Hall on High Street. Mrs Z and I had a wonderful time here. Arrivers signal their presence by ringing the provided (large) bell. I pity the fool that does not order their award-winning cheese scones, their sandwiches, their heavenly CHUTNEY and frankly everything else here. Maybe choose an outdoors table?

Karen and Paul Owens work hard to provide an inviting tearoom experience. Rough Guide: 'a pitch-perfect take on traditional English tea'. Karen corrected us after we pronounced 'clematis' the North American way. Her version: 'Kleh-may-tuss'. A little boy at the next table stuck his tongue out and made a face at Mrs Z then.

The town's motif is their historic Market Hall. One may see a stained-glass depiction of this ancient hall in one of the main Church's windows. A trio of modest stalls sold their wares there at a weekly mini-market.

One vendor displayed large rawhide carpets over the sides.

I chanced across these lads from the local school (not a private one as I'd presumed). Look closely at their football--its an American one. The boys were American students whose parents worked in the Cotswolds. We played catch as I told them about my own playing days as a teen, and how our Canuck version of the sport had a few differences.

CC is a major hub for a number of famed local hiking trails. While doing a bit of The Heart of England way, we stumbled across an official school tie like the kind worn in the above foto. The tie was attached to a fence on the hike. Turned out that such a gesture, stealing a mate's tie, is a prank favoured by the students.

I kept asking locals where the bath was, as I had been hot and sweaty all day while searching for Jack in the Green. I went 100m in every direction and never found it. Not once. I mean, why post a sign like that if...

Wisteria season.

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Old Jul 18th, 2023, 07:28 PM
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Those looking for a howlingly-funny rockstar autobio could do worse that read The Animals singer Eric Burdon's memoir. Readers will laugh so hard at some of the stories that they'll possibly pee their pants.
*Note that seriously, Burdon holds the key to an utterly crucial piece or rock history clarification--the death of Jimi Hendrix. Burdon is the sole surviving person who was close to the event that morn, and he seems to know more than he has let on. Fingers crossed that he'll come clean before his own demise.
For Shoshannah.

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Old Jul 18th, 2023, 07:34 PM
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Thank you zebec, following closely. I expect to spend a weekend in the Cotswolds this September, ironically based out of Chipping Camden!

Waiting to hear about the Black Sabbath connection....
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Old Jul 18th, 2023, 07:37 PM
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I was not a big fan of 90s rock, and Liam is a certified dick. However no-one but him could've sung this Oasis song as well. Respect from an old rocker.
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Old Jul 18th, 2023, 08:33 PM
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We came across a wedding at the smaller of the 2 churches, the Catholic St. Catherines.

The couple and their families must've been well-off, as parked out front beside the Grey Ghost there were a Lamborghini, a Ferrari and a Maclaren. All three gift-wrapped.

A most amusing moment occurred then, as the local 'Green Tortoise' van to Stratford was trying to make its way through the crowd and the luxury cars, the quintessential 'contrast' if ever! Posters on the Rick Steves forum took me to task for having simply recounted what we'd been told by local drivers: some of the volunteer Green Tortoise drivers are seniors whose sight is not as acute as it once was. So some locals wonder whether to pull off the road as the van approaches on dark country lanes.

We now switch the channel to Lower Slaughter (olde English 'mud').

The tiny village is very photogenic. And quiet.

'Lovely' is another tired word, but it applies here for sure.

A perfect place to set up one's painting easel.

Or maybe re-locate it here?

Onto toney Stanton in Gloucestershire. Seen here, the door arch for its Norman 12C church of St. Michael and All Angels. At the NW end of the nave, we saw bench-ends deeply ringed by the sheepdog dog-chains of yesteryear. The upper sections of the east window contain fragments of old glass, thought to be from Hailes Abbey. The Gothic pulpit is still there.

Stanton's Old Post Inn.

The three of us had a lovely chat. Well OK, the horse made four of us.

Again, we witnessed some serious gardening amid the Jacobean gables and warm-coloured stones.

Residents took pride in the appearance of their homes.

Great colour coordination throughout.

Stanway: the renown Stanway House gatehouse (note Ukrainian flag). The famed fountain was then taking a break. It only shoots twice a day. Btw, the 45 minute walk from Stanton down to Stanway is a very compelling one. The route passes by Shenberrow Hill, the Rayers Brake pasture ('more like parkland'--Rick Steves), abandoned stone huts, gnarly denuded trees, ditches, crops and hedges--archetype Cotswolds.

Snowshill: a gate. Snowshill is another sleepy, picturesque village. We visited twice. For fewer crowds, visit its famed Manor mid-week. As we entered, its manager came racing out to intercept us. It seemed that we'd arrived too late, 55 minutes to closing. "By the time you reach our gardens, you'll have to turn back to make it out of here on time! Save your 17 quid (entry fee)!" he wheezed breathlessly. Hmm. OK. That was a first. We'd never been warned that way by staff anywhere. Ta, I guess.

"WOT YOU MEAN, THEY NEVAH GAVE OLE 'GOTHLAMM' ANY MONEY FOR 'IS WOOL? BLOODY HELL!"

"Gothlamm is my eldest boy and I tried to warn him, I really did: "Make sure that they pay you up front son." But he wouldn't listen. Silly boy, black sheep of the family and all."

"Pfgh! My sibling Gothlamm always got all the attention. Spoiled brat he was. "Piss off!" I used to tell my pesky brother. Mum and dad never listened to me when I wanted to become a punk singer. Life has never been fair."
Next: the Olympiks and Scuttlebrook Wake.

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Old Jul 18th, 2023, 11:47 PM
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Old Jul 19th, 2023, 05:22 AM
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Ah, those pictures of the quintessential English village and countryside…my sister and I often talk of a walking tour in the Cotswolds, an old school friend too. So many places on my wishlist and not enough time…
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Old Jul 19th, 2023, 05:37 AM
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Geetika, I know exactly what you are talking about. Never enough time. The Costwolds is on our wishlist, definitely.

Zebec, I love all of your photos! Especially love the parade member and the red flower in the first batch. The wedding photos; the "cheeky" art photo
You do a great job capturing the people.

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Old Jul 19th, 2023, 05:47 AM
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The Olympiks. Fri. 3rd June 2022. The undisputed main event that locals waited til the final hour to see was the Shin-Kicking World Championship. Fit men pad up for this contest and really go at each other. The reigning champ regained his title, but had to take a few time-outs. At those times, he approached the referee officiating to complain about his opponent's over-the-top aggressiveness. True that.

One organizer became rightly FURIOUS after careless parents allowed their children to frolic in the fields below. Nearly 100 excited kids collected there. Thing is, there were fireworks planted onsite. He went ballistic and who could blame him? The announcer above rightly asked the crowd watching the shin-kicking from the hill then, "Folks up there: whose little girl keeps screaming 'BLOOD!!' ? He wasn't kidding. The girl was quite animated and everyone in the large crowd heard her every shriek!

Robert Dover and Endymion Porter rode up. He was the local Max Yasgur (Woodstock) 'on whose property we all are'. We reckoned the crowd to be a couple thousand strong. Mixed gender teams competed in all manner of wacky games. There were obstacle courses on slippery surfaces, spurning the bar (caber toss), backwards races, sack races, Cotswold stone put and tug o' war. The loony ski challenge had 4 folks per ski! A grinning 30ish guy in street clothes won a number of the individual events.

Next: the morning after--Scuttlebrook Wake.

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Old Jul 19th, 2023, 06:05 AM
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Fabulous as always, zebec. I loved the house reflected in the water.
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Old Jul 19th, 2023, 08:59 AM
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Sat. 4th June 2022: Scuttlebrook Wake. Another major highlight of this trip. And as you will see, shutterbug heaven.

John Beynon from the 'Generation Jones' band was one of the musicians. His bandmate Geoff Carr later showed us his intriguing modern instrument, a 'zendrum'. It was composed of a wooden, zither-like device that housed various pickups, each of which activated percussion sounds played by tapping. The 'Orange River Remedy' trio from Stratford played their Humble Pie-esque set with a female drummer. The 'Wired' band also deserves mention here, with their versatile skills, good singin' and good playin'.

Good cheer was evident at the Leysbourne staging ground near the bottom of the village. This fellow drove a sturdy vintage WWII era vehicle. The creativity shown across various costumes was fantastic.

His daughters rode in the back and one sensed a very healthy family bond throughout. The Scuttlebrook Wake programme deliberately overlapped with the Queen's Platinum Jubilee.

One float included depictions of the Queen throughout different stages of her life. Not pictured here was the local gal/Queen-lookalike dressed in her thick, traditional pink, plain matching clothes.

Not all supported celebrations of the Queen's Jubilee. This farmer's wife reminded us of the anti-royal graffiti that we'd seen in London's Brick Lane. Her husbear was not shy about parading their private float around town.

Up near the Littleworth part of town, this trio of judges inspected the range of costumes, both adult and child, to later award the best. Note how I'm switching back and forth from calling CC a village, then a town. Its that kind of place, an affluent yet still quite rural part of England.

The Bretforten Silver brass band led the procession into the main Town Square.

The 'Royal Mobility Car', sponsored by The Village Bar in Weston Sub-Edge. License plate HRH 70. See the sign: 'ONLY CORGIS TO BE TETHERED HERE'. He had his flag-waving teen granddaughters ride with him, wearing royal masks.

The famed Campden Morris dancers played a major role (see later). Our taxi driver Cookie's Ilmington-based uncle was once one of the leaders of this historic dance troupe, back in the days when they were known as the Morris Men. As you will soon see below, today's troupe had one female member. Btw, this gent shown above may have been the father of one of the younger members of the Scuttlebrook (teen) Queen-elect's procession.

One of those flowery members, all in purple and having a good time. The procession was led by a specific float. This was the one carrying the abovementioned teen Queen-elect on her throne, dragged by the Morris dancers.

Two Morris Dancers arrive to prepare for their team's performance.

The Morris Dancers had a female member and that was good to see. She used the customary dancing sticks, wore the distinctive costume and was part of an animated team carrying on old traditions.

The troupe's current leader.

The buttons he wore all over showed the Brit sense of humour. Here, the ones attached to his hat.

I believe that this man was his predecessor.

A trio of players provided the jaunty dancing music, accordion, flute plus this violinist (fiddle?).

A mock-horse would move around the dancers, galloping with all the gaiety in the Cotswolds. At that moment, one really sensed the deep rural roots of this aged fest. Then just when we thought it couldn't get any better...

...students from both of CC's primary schools joined round the Maypole in dance too.

Just think: these youngsters were learning about their town's centuries-old past then could have later at home, easily called up an app that tracked the ISS Space Shuttle. What a span of years, of human activity.

A Morris Dancer in training. Locals nudged me-the-photographer to take note of the photo op as he joyfully danced along with abandon. There was also in the parade, a similarly young boy in a stroller carriage dressed up in uniform with the label 'Grenadier Guard in Training.'

This 'chimney sweep' child and their sibling below put a great deal of effort into their costumes.

Mary Poppins. One wonders how successful the Olympiks and Scuttlebrook Wake will be in maintaining itself for future generations?

One of our faves was the 'Dansin Queens' group. Their five male members dressed up in drag, each with their own mannequin dates. One of their grandsons was their mascot who carried the team sign. Seen here on the steps of Bedfont House, posing with a (Brit?) tourist gal.

Another fave was the female 'Quintet of Queens.' From Cleopatra through Boudicca to THE original Queen Elizabeth, they were a varied lot. You could feel their good cheer a mile away.

Alice in Wonderland? Or Anne of Green Gables? This girl's dad was a medical doctor specializing in overseas AIDS advising. He and I had a nice chat about some of the countries that we'd both been to over the years.

Everyone got into the fun, young and old.

This clever resident acknowledged the Beeb's 100th Anniversary with his brilliant television costume. Behind him, the new teen Queen.

Everyone had a good time, ourselves included. A carnival feel embraced the town. CC knows how to party.

Near the church at the top end of town, live music ringing in the background.

If you time your visit to CC to include it's marvelous Olympiks with their Scuttlebrook follow-up, you will not be disappointed. It'll add a new dimension to your experience in England. Satisfaction guaranteed. *Next up: the two main gardens, Hidcote plus Kiftsgate.

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Old Jul 19th, 2023, 09:29 AM
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WOW! WOW! WOW! These photos are priceless! I love all of them but especially the photos with the children and the "70 Years on the Throne" photo!
When are these events held? Are they annual?
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Old Jul 19th, 2023, 09:29 AM
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zebec, this looks pretty normal for my town too. Is this not what everyone does?
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Old Jul 19th, 2023, 10:06 AM
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Tell me more, tell me more... did you get very far?
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