We spent 17 wonderful days in Italy and thought I'd share a few tips and observations. Each trip is better than the last!

Flew into Venice and took the Alilaguna to St. Mark's stop. The Alilaguna is much cheaper than a taxi boat and worth waiting a few minutes for. After exiting the airport, take the bus to the waterfront. The platform is the one before the water taxi dock. Hotel - Do not stay at La Residenza as it is under major renovations. Scaffolding throughtout the inside of common areas and surrounding the exterior causing the rooms to be full of dirt and a very powerful smell. We gutted it out for 1 night and fought to get out of the remaining nights. We went to Hotel Flora for the remainder of our stay and had an outstanding double room right next to the courtyard for 220e a night. I'd highly recommend the Flora or the Violin D' Oro which was only 200e. Best internet cafe in the piazza closet to Accademia bridge.

Trained to Milan - and up to Varenna with final destination Bellagio. Upon arrival at the port in Varenna, ask the station agent which boat is quicker. We boarded the ferry for a 20 minute non-stop to Bellagio. Stayed at Hotel DuLac. Strike 2 - they were having a sewage problem and some of the rooms and first floor had sewer smell coming through the pipes. Would recommend Hotel Florence. Filming Oceans 12 while we were there.

Our next destination was Florence so the quickest way to get there was a boat to Como and EuroStar nonstop to Florence versus going back to Varenna or through Milan. There is one train non stop to Florence a day so be sure to ask at your hotel versus reading the guidebooks as the guide books aren't always right. Florence train station abundant with thieves. 2 things to remember - don't get cash from an ATM at a train station and if you arrive early sit in the main ticket area with your back against a wall on the exterior of the area. We watched what appeared to be a "handicapped" man sprint after a woman who left her purse open after buying a newspaper. Most of the rental cars are in the same area and a little hard to find. Plan your path to the rental car agency before lugging your rollerbags in circles around Florence.

Rented a car in Florence from Europecar, plugged in our Garmong Street Pilot GPS and headed to an agriturisimo between San G and Certaldo... Getting out of Florence is a little easier than getting back in. If you rent a manual, check out how to get into reverse before leaving the lot. (models are different and most require the ring 2 inches below the top of the gear shift has to be held and pulled up in order to get the gear shift into reverse).
Hotel/Ag We will never stay in a hotel in the Tuscany area again. The PodereArcangelo was outstanding!!! Can't believe we only stayed in hotels in the past and so glad we tried an ag. 4 buildings on site each with a beautiful pool, trees, flowers. The Podere is a working winery and olive oil producing farm that makes all food from organic products grown on the property. Dinner at 8:00 was a 5 course delight every night for 23e a person plus wine. The homemade wine for 3e a bottle was outstanding and the comraderie was even better. We were the only American guests and all the natives raved and rank this AG as tops. Made our 4 night stay in San G memorable for 84e a night.
Visited Florence, Siena, Greve, Arezzo and for all you shopping fans - the outlets. Space Outlet (Prada, MiuMiu) is absolutely worth the trip. I bought 3 Prada purses that sell for $595 each at Neimans - I paid $190 each. Space Outlet is a very hard building to find in La Vagnilla since there is no sign on the gray warehouse building. The Versace, Armani outlets not worth the trip - limited selections and old merchandise.
If driving into Florence, park at the Europe Garage near the rental car agency and only 3 blocks from the Ponte Vecchio. Expensive 23e a day but in a secured covered garage.

Next - Trained down to Naples, right in the middle of a strike in the center of the city. It's true - nastiest city in Italy!! Police surrounded the first class trains as we pulled into the station. Thieves trying to jump onto the train and steal luggage before the riders got off. Taxied to the marina and took the hydrofoil over to Capri.

Capri - beautiful scenery, wonderful hotel but too fadedada.. Paparazzi and beautiful jet setters everywhere!! The couples outfits at the pool matched during the day and the women wore way too dressy gowns to dinner in the evening. Great day trip but not a place for tourists to stay over at. Overcrowded with cruise ship tourists during the day. Would recommend Hotel Luna over the Quisiana. Blue Grotto definitely a tourist trap you have to do. (Funny - met a family from Ohio who didn't know you had to ride the funicular up the hill to the real town and thought the dock area was all of Capri).

Hydrofoiled over to Positano. Stayed in Room 210 at the Miramare. Outstanding!!! Even if you have to climb 200 stairs. Breakfast excellent, view and balcony excellent and the private boat ride they own with sister hotel one of the highlights!! Free and worth staying at the Miramare just for the 3 hour tour. Boat holds 3 couples and the captain picks a new route each day. Highly recommended!!!!!!!!!!

Wanted to leave Positano early and take first ES out of Naples and into Rome so hired a driver for 100e. Bought first class train tickets before leaving the US and upgraded to assigned seats before each leg.

Arrived in Rome and did the Sistine Sprint b/c of early Saturday closing time at Vatican Museum. Extremely crowded upon arrival and 40 minute line to get in. 45 mins before closing when admission is closed off, we had the whole place to ourselves. Stayed at the Rome Hilton Cavalieri using Hilton Honors points and were treated like royalty. Apparently there aren't a lot of Italian Diamond Members. A 650e a night room for 40,000 points - not bad.

Overall, don't be afraid to ask for help or directions. Be courteous and respectful.. Don't stay at La Residenza in Venice and do stay at the Miramare in Positano. Ciao!!

Amazing report! Thanks for the tips!

Quick question: How come you went to Bellagio via Milan? I thought there was a train direct from Venice to Como. I hope so... considering thats what I had been planning to do in September (unfortunately for some reason I cant check it out on the Italy train timetable seeing as the English page is always down when I go on). Im waiting for my Italian speaking sister to get home from her trip to Italy so she can help me on the Italian page, but if you happen to know whether it can be done (ie Venice - Como direct) Id be very grateful! Thanks.

Hi weddinginitaly: So did you get married in Italy this time or is that a moniker from a previous trip event? Thanks for the trip report, it was concise and to-the-point. I have heard lots of great things about agriturismos, it's funny, my Italian friends consider it a "farm" but I think the AGs are really trying to attract more and more visitors so they have spruced them up quite nicely. I may have to stay in one some day. It was disheartening to hear that Naples was still obnoxious. I am pulling for that city and so would like it to be non-eventful to tourists and guests to their city. I was disappointed to hear about the train action, there is always something going on down around the station and they don't take "no" for an answer! (I was robbed on a bus in front of Piazza Garibaldi and the train station 9 months ago, and I am naturally, a bit wary about returning. However, I do plan to do so in September). Capri struck me the same way, lots of people trying to "out-do" the other with what they could wear, flaunt, etc. When my 3 year old was fussing over a gelato (didn't like the flavor I had bought for her), a shop owner came out and was "tsk-tsk-tsking" me for no apparent reason (noise? in the middle of a bustling afternoon at the Piazzetta?) Humorous. The views from the top of Tiberius' Villa are just breathtaking, looking down at the turquoise water and stunning scenery. I liked the Blue Grotto too - tourist trap that it is - I would still recommend it to my friends. All in all, Capri is still a magical place.

mattruby: re: your question about Venice to Como -- I checked the trenitalia site for you in Italian. There are 4 possible stations in Como (Como Nord Borghi, Como Nord Lago, Como Nord Camerlata, and Como S. Giovanni) and EACH and every train from Venice stops in Milan. The total trip time is ~ 4 hours.

There are no direct trains, with the exception of 1 train leaving Venice's S. Lucia station: train #354 at 12:51 pm, arriving non-stop at Como's S. Giovanni station at 5:05 pm. Cost is 29,80 euros for 1st class, 21,33 euros for 2nd class. I don't know how far the S. Giovanni train station is to where you will be staying in Como, but I am certain you could take a taxi from the station to your final destination. If the non-stop is so important to you, then it might be a consideration, otherwise plan on stopping in Milan enroute. Hope this helps!

Great report...question about Oceans 12, were they filming scenes at the Hotel Florence or Bellagio in general? The tips about Tuscany and where to stay are much appreciated.

Great information, thanks! Question about the Miramare: did you let them know when the hydrofoil arrived so that the porter could meet you, or did you just use one of the town porters to get the luggage to the hotel? The hotel sounds fantastic, and the boat ride is what tipped the scales for us in Miramare's favor.

Hi W,

Glad you had a nice trip. Thanks for sharing.

>Trained down to Naples, right in the middle of a strike in the center of the city. It's true - nastiest city in Italy!! ....Taxied to the marina and took the hydrofoil over to Capri.<

May I suggest that on your next visit you actually spend some time in Naples? I think you will get a different impression.

I will be travelling with my wife and daughter to Naples from Athens after the Olympic Games. After reading some of the above reports about the Naples train station, I am starting to get a bit nervous as our train is due to arrive at 11pm. Our hotel is on Piazza Garibaldi (as is the train station). Would it be safe to walk to our hotel from the station?
Lonhro

Hi Lon,

>Would it be safe to walk to our hotel from the station?<

You will be in no more danger than in any other large city.

Stay together and be aware of your surroundings.

I bring a pocket sized air horn (available at boat supply houses). It can be heard for a mile.

Not only does it scare petty thieves, it brings out everyone in the neighborhood.

Thanks for the report, weddinginitaly. Glad you enjoyed your trip! If I remember correctly, weren't you getting married over there?

Thanks for the responses. Here are a few answers.

The size of our wedding party grew and one of our parents is ill and couldn't make the trip to Italy so we were married in Orlando at the Portofino Hotel in a Piazza. Simulated Italy but stuck to our Italian theme. Our families (all from the East) then enjoyed a week at the Beach. A wedding in Italy would have been wonderful but it was more important to celebrate with our parents than without them in a great setting.

Thank you Huitres for answering the Train question.

Mattruby - They are filiming Oceans 12 in Lake Como area and some of the actors are staying at George clooney's house on the Lake. They also built a set on the Lake. The crew was staying at the Florence, and the Grand Hotel Villa Serebelloni. On that particular Friday, the filming was taking place in Bellagio.

AWBaker - We called the Miramare before leaving Capri and did tell them which ferry we would be on. 2 gentleman from the hotel tied our luggage onto their backs and carried them up the stairs. Upon departure because we left so early in the AM, they carried our bags up to their storage area on the road and got them out for us before the taxi arrived. We checked out the Poseidon, Bucca and the Murat while we were there also. Still liked Miramare the best although the location of Bucca right on the beach and with a pool was nice. The downside - noise at night. All of the top choices listed here on Fodors are all great choices.

Ira - I almost let one of your not so nice comments ruin the beginning of my honeymoon. I logged into Fodors from a pc at the Admirals Club and forgot my password so I had to make up a new user id. I posed a question and got a not very nice remark back from you. Needless to say, I have always enjoyed reading your informative postings and understand you have opinions just like I do. As of your Naples comment, you are probably right and we may stay a few days in Naples next summer during our next Italy trip.

weddinginitaly, that was very thoughtful of you to change your plans to include your parents. Kudos!

Hi Wed,

>Ira - I almost let one of your not so nice comments ruin the beginning of my honeymoon.<

Well, I am certainly glad you didn't.

Too bad about the ill parent. It's good that you were flexible enough to roll with the problem.

Thanks for the information, wedding. And I'm so glad to hear that you liked the Miramare better than the other hotels. Congratulations! I wish you a lifetime of travel together.

Thank you so much Huitres for the train information. Big help.

Im starting to think it may be easier to go to Lake Garda from Venice (along with Verona?). Any thoughts anyone?