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Italy Trip Report - Rome/Venice - late December

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Italy Trip Report - Rome/Venice - late December

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Old Mar 5th, 2008, 10:28 AM
  #41  
 
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Grcxx3,

Enjoying your report. My teenage son learned his "Coke" lesson on his own at Piazza San Marco: 7€ (over $10!) for an 8 oz. Diet Coke. I actually encouraged him to always have wine instead as it would have been 1/3 the cost (the drinking age is 15 in Italy) but he simply doesn't care for the taste of wine, beer, or anything alcoholic. Thereafter, he spent his own money if he felt like he really needed a Coke.
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Old Mar 5th, 2008, 11:08 AM
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Thank you for continuing this very entertaining trip report. I think I said before that I love family trip reports - so "real".

I hope you did eventually purchase a Murano glass piece (or two) . . .
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Old Mar 6th, 2008, 08:50 AM
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Day 9 – Venice
Morning – Our first morning in Venice! We slept late, called the boys room to wake them up, and got ready for the day.

DH is not a big breakfast eater, but I convinced him he needed coffee and dragged him and the younger generation off for breakfast. Of course, DH was not happy that we had to wait 15 minutes for a table – but the dear boys had spotted the bacon and sausages and refused to leave without eating! Breakfast was quite good, but as I said before – I think in better weather, when you could sit out on the patio – it would be just lovely.

After a trip back to the room to gather our “stuff” – we headed off. We had already decided that this would be our shopping day. Too often, we have held off shopping until the last minute – only to find the stores we wanted to go back to ….closed! Since this was a Saturday and we didn’t know what the store hours would be on Sunday – we didn’t want to take any chances.

Of course, the thought of having a whole day focused on “shopping” thrilled DS#2 and made DS#1 just roll his eyes a lot!

We decided to venture out toward the Rialto Bridge and explore the area on that side of the Grand Canal. We strolled along and eventually reached the waterfront near the bridge, where DS#2 spotted a “window” selling pizza – which looked and smelled really good! I could see his little mind working……..”It’s only 10:30. We just had breakfast an hour ago. There is NO WAY Mom and Dad are going to let me get a piece of pizza now. But gee it smells good!” ........then he asked if he could come back later and get a piece! Sure. No problem.

We walked up the steps of the bridge and – naturally – had to stop and take a bunch of photos. The view is just incredible. All the boats in the water – the gondolas, the little water taxis, the vaporettos. And I loved looking at all the buildings going right up to the water’s edge and the walkway areas with cafes. We took LOTS of photos!

After looking and taking photos on both sides of the bridge, we crossed and headed toward the Rialto Market. I explained to the boys the history of the market. They nodded, accepting the fact that it was an interesting and historic place, and then walked quickly ahead to catch up with dad! So much for my attempt at education!

The younger Y-chromosomes were a little bored with the market at first. I mean, really, who gets excited over piles of fresh fruits and veggies? But for DH and I – it was a feast for our eyes! Oh – to have that variety of fresh produce!!!! However, the younger ones got more interested when we reached the area with all the seafood. They had a great time looking at all the fish, the octopus, the squid, the clams, the shrimp, etc. We easily spent 20 minutes looking at everything there! Again, nothing like living in the middle of nowhere for 3 years to make you appreciate simple things in life!!!!

From the Rialto Market, we just walked around, looking in windows, people watching, stopping for tea/coffee/cokes, and just enjoying the day. Eventually we came across a small mask shop that looked interesting. We looked at the masks, but didn’t really find anything that we wanted to purchase. I did, however, buy a small ceramic “house” to add to my collection. Of course, DS#2 was intrigued by the “blank” masks. These are ones that you can decorate yourself. They weren’t expensive (maybe 5 € each) – so we let him get one. I asked DS#1 if he wanted one – but he gently reminded me that he had just finished a clay mask project in his art class and had NO desire to decorate a mask again! Considering it took 3 different “tries” to get an actual mask of his face - fair enough!

Afternoon - Happy with our purchases, we headed back to the Rialto Bridge. Since it was after noon by this point – we KNEW what DS#2 would want – although the rest of us weren’t quite ready for food. So, just for anyone who wants to know…..across from the Rialto vaporetto stop is a little café. The pizza “window” seems to be separate from the café – selling pizza by the slice. Evidently – it ranked up there with his top favorites! And this is a kid who keeps track! His favorite - Winnie Bagoes in Queenstown, New Zealand, which is followed closely by Il Sol in Salzburg and New York Pizza (the original one on Magazine Street) in New Orleans. At the bottom of his list – the Tate Museum in London!

We continued walking, slowly working our way toward Piazza San Marco. It didn’t take long, however, for DS#1 and DH to start complaining about hunger. Remembering our bit of an “oops” the night before, we really didn’t want to do anything fancy. We walked around a bit, looking at menus and eventually landed back on Calle dei Fabbri. Now, we generally stay away from places that have “photo menus in the window” – but by this time we were starting to get a big grumpy. So, another “executive decision” on my part and we went in. It wasn’t fancy. In fact, it was a downright plain little place – but we ordered a sausage pizza and 3 soft drinks for me and the boys and a sandwich and glass of wine for DH and I think our whole bill was under 30€. Not cheap, but quite reasonable – and the food was good!

Fortified and rested – we ventured back out for some more shopping. By this point, we had a good feel for the shops that we liked. In addition to buying a piece of Murano glass, we wanted to get a nice Venetian mask. We looked at a lot of fancy ones – quite interesting, but not really what we wanted. We kept going back into a little shop called Cristal Star (Calle dei Fabbri, 1047). The owner was so nice and spent a lot of time talking about the different masks she had in the shop. She showed us the traditional masks, the fancy masks, and the ones she makes “for tourists!”

While we were learning about the masks, the boys were picking out ones that they liked. Looking over their selections, the owner just laughed and commented on their good taste. Yeah – just what I need – kids with exquisite taste!!! DS#2 had picked out a classic mask – the name escapes me at the moment but it is the one with the “Gonzo” nose. DS#1 – always more conservative and restrained – picked out a gorgeous Casanova mask in dark burgundy and black and gold. Really wonderful choices by both kids. I had “in my mind” picked out the masks I wanted, but I wasn’t sure what DH was thinking, so I put of my purchase for the moment. I also learned that the shop was open all day on Sunday – so my anxiety to “buy” right then was lessened.

By this point, the weather was turning a little cold, so we decided we needed “refreshments.” We ended up at a nice little bar on Calle dei Fabbri, right where the street does a little “dog-leg” before reaching the Piazza San Marco. I think the bar is part of a Best Western hotel, but I’m not sure. The place is small – with only room for about 15 people at the most, and while it is technically “inside” – it doesn’t have a door – so it is cozy in size but not necessarily warm. But – it’s quite a nice little place and one we went back to a couple of times the next day.

After our refreshments, we strolled along the streets off from Basillica San Marco – around Calle Larga San Marco. There were lots of neat shops here and we had a great time looking at stuff. There was some beautiful Murano glass pieces, but we were still “window shopping” – not having really found anything we HAD to have.

Tired of shopping, having had a somewhat successful day, we decided to take a break before dinner, and we headed back to the hotel.

Dinner – We decided to walk in a slightly different direction – walking in the general direction of the Rialto Bridge, but staying more in the center of the island.

The weather was quite chilly and DS#2 was really moaning and complaining. DS#1 had little sympathy – telling him that had he been “smart” he would have brought his heavy coat, instead of trying to be “cool” in his little American Eagle windbreaker. While window shopping, we came across a nice men’s store and DH commented on a scarf in the window. DS#2 – of course – insisted that a scarf was JUST what he needed to stay warm and asked if he could get it. I mentioned 2 problems with his idea. First, the store was closed. Second, the scarf was silk and was 75€ and there was no way on earth I was going to buy him a 75€ silk scarf!!!!! The boy was absolutely delusional if he thought that was going to happen! Geez………….

We were on Salizzada San Lio by this point and came across a restaurant that looked promising. The restaurant, Marco Polo, (Salizzada San Lio, 5571, near Calle Paradiso) was absolutely outstanding. As usual, DS#1 had a pasta dish (that boy loves his pasta), DS#2 had a grilled fish, DH had seafood pasta, and I had a salad and “shared” the DS#1’s pasta. This dinner was one of our favorites, and I was particularly pleased when I was presented with a nice Murano glass necklace on a ribbon at the end of the meal. DH commented that the necklace probably meant that we spent too much money – but I didn’t care!!!! A gift of jewelry is never to be refused!!!!

We took our time heading back – much to DS#2’s annoyance since he was “freezing” and reminding us constantly that if he had a nice scarf he wouldn’t be complaining. DS#1 kept “bopping” him on the head (what we call “doing a Gibbs” – from the NCIS TV show) and telling him to keep quiet!

We got back to the hotel, told the boys to go to bed and not to kill each other before morning, and went to bed!
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Old Mar 6th, 2008, 05:38 PM
  #44  
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next installment - our last day in Venice......Will I get my Murano glass??????
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Old Mar 6th, 2008, 08:18 PM
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Anxiously awaiting the rest of your report!
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Old Mar 7th, 2008, 10:02 AM
  #46  
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Just wanted to say "thanks" for all the nice comments about my trip report.

I think that this is the first "detailed" report I have done and sometimes I feel that it is too detailed and boring and stupid - but it's real!!! For anyone who has traveled as a family ....this is just the way it is!!!!

For those who don't travel with kids - welcome to my world!!!!

Still working on our last day in Venice.....but for those of you waiting to hear whether I get my Murano glass ....this is the thread that got me interested in it

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2
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Old Mar 15th, 2008, 08:45 AM
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Hi Grcxx3,

I've enjoyed your report & I'm anxiously awaiting your final installment. Our family is heading to Venice this summer so I appreciate the details!
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