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Old Oct 2nd, 2008, 07:26 AM
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First Time to Rome - Solo Traveler

Hi - I am traveling to Rome for the first time in November. It is a spontaneous solo trip (one week) and am just getting started with the planning. I am a woman in my 30s and am pretty adventurous. Any suggestions on neighborhoods to stay in or avoid, things not to miss (aside from the obvious)and any hidden gems will be greatly appreciated!
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Old Oct 2nd, 2008, 07:34 AM
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Ciao Ctrican,

We love to stay around Piazza Navona, Campo de' Fiori and Piazza Farnese.

There is lots to see and do around there and you can walk everywhere.

You'll love Italy and Rome. If you are interested, our website is full of travel video to Rome including where to go to get the hair done, where to go find some cool fashions by contemporary designers, and where to go have a drink.

Rome is a great city to explore alone. The trattoria are family style meaning you go in and sit a long table where you may talk to no one or if you wish the person(s) dining near you.

Hidden gems are numerous. What are your interests?

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Old Oct 2nd, 2008, 08:34 AM
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Rome-- http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34813272

"Trip report: Rome, three nights in May 2006__

I arrived at Rome’s FCO airport around noon on Sunday, having flown in from the States. I took the hotel shuttle to the Domus Julia, a nice little B&B type hotel, just below the Barberini Palace and very near the Spanish Steps, at via Rasella 32. I had time to get settled and refreshed before my daughter arrived from Florence at 5 p.m. I was not feeling at all tired or jet-lagged, just excited to be there and see Rome for the first time.__

As soon as she arrived, we headed for the Spanish Steps. It was a beautiful and sunny day, with all the deep pink azaleas in bloom, and lots of people lounging on the steps. We looked around, took pictures, and then walked down to see the designer shops on via Condotti. __

Next, we stopped for dinner at Rosa Rosae Ristorante, via di Pietra 88. It was a very nice atmosphere, but a bit touristy, which we expected because of its location. Food was just so-so, but service was friendly. Prices were on the higher side for the quality, at about 52 EUR for two, with a half-liter of house wine. My veal was ok, but a big tough. __

After dinner, we ended our day at the Trevi Fountain, because we wanted to see it all lit up at night. It was very pretty, if somewhat crowded. We sat on the steps to enjoy it and chat. The street vendors are especially annoying there, though. They simply won’t take No for an answer, so it’s best to totally ignore them. But that’s a tough thing to do at first. __
Anyway, I discovered that it’s a mistake to pay any attention, as the street vendors take that as showing interest, and they persist endlessly. You just have to ignore them, or they follow you and stay right in your face. I was surprised when I found out that the vendors come right into restaurants and walk up to diners at their tables, too. It’s a sad situation, really.__

The next day we had reservations at the Vatican Museums at 2:00. We had a leisurely morning, enjoyed the Hotel Julia’s breakfast buffet, and then took the metro over to Vatican City. We were thrilled we were able to walk to the head of the line, which was about two blocks long. (So the hassle of faxing to the Vatican for a tour reservation, and waiting to hear back was all worth it!) __

Our tour was very nice, with an informative and interesting guide. We had headsets, which are a huge convenience in enjoying the tour. It took two hours, which left us in the Sistine Chapel at 4:00. This was great timing, since the door from there into St. Peter’s Basilica closes at 4:30. We had 30 minutes to enjoy the chapel’s masterpiece ceiling, which is barely enough time. We then headed directly into St. Peter’s to admire its dome, and especially Michelangelo’s Pieta.__

It made for a great day of art appreciation, without any of the headache of waiting in lines. We figured we would have spent about four hours standing in lines in the sunshine, if we didn’t have the Museums reservation and didn’t know about the back door from the Sistine Chapel into St. Peter’s. I don’t think they advertise that little shortcut, but, thanks to Rick Steves, we knew about it.__

After enjoying St. Peter’s Square and seeing all we wanted to see at the Vatican, we crossed the Tiber and walked around that cute neighborhood for a while, finding a nice little café to sit for a drink and a salad.__

We wandered around some more, took lots of photos and enjoyed the atmosphere.__

Later, for dinner, we headed back toward a restaurant where my daughter had eaten earlier that semester. It’s very casual and good, called the Maccheroni Ristorante at Piazza delle Coppelle, 44, phone 06 68307895. It’s very popular with locals and gets very busy. The service is friendly and the atmosphere is lively and interesting. About 47 EUR for two, with one-half liter of house wine.__

The next day dawned with pouring rain, which was a bit concerning as it was our last full day. and we planned to visit the Coloseum and the Forum. Our luck was good, though, because after we’d finished breakfast and were ready to head out for the day, the rain had stopped. It continued to clear throughout the day, and turned into very pleasant weather after all.__

When we arrived at the Coloseum, a guide was selling space in the next tour of both the Coloseum and the Forum, so we jumped in. He was interesting, but rather rushed. He gave a quick history, and then we had just 15 minutes to look around, take pics, and meet the next guide for the Forum tour. That guide was quite a bit more interesting; a self-proclaimed history buff who knew all the background stories that make a place come alive. We walked to the top of the hill, and then stopped several times throughout the Forum, and he gave a lot of information and answered all the questions. After that, we wandered around a bit on our own, then headed into the adjoining Roman neighborhood to get lunch on our way back toward our hotel. __

Trying to eat ‘lunch’ in Italy in mid-day is a big problem, as probably everybody already knows. Once they close after lunch around 3:00, restaurants don’t open again until at least 7:00, and it wasn’t easy to find a market for picnic snacks. Finding a place to sit and enjoy a salad in the afternoon is a big challenge. We didn’t have much choice, so when we found a place that looked nice and was serving food at that time of day, we didn’t care much about the price or the menu. Of course, it was outrageously expensive and rather mediocre. (Can you say “tourist trap”?) But, it was worth every penny to get some food and take a break. And it was a really charming place, with very nice outdoor seating.__

We then wandered over to see the Pantheon, Piazza Navonna, and to find a church that has Michelangelo’s Risen Christ. (I can’t remember the name of the church, though!)__Finally, we found a Foot Locker store to get a pair of shoes my daughter needed to hike the Cinque Terre. Hers had completely worn through after her semester of walking everywhere in Italy. That accomplished, we headed back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.__

We had reservations to meet my daughter’s friend for dinner at 9:00. He had studied in Rome that semester and recommended his favorite restaurant in the neighborhood where he’d lived, called Il Matriciano, on Via dei Gracchi, 49- 61. (Reservations advised—phone 063213040, or 063212327) It’s perfect for a more special dinner, but certainly not over-the-top. For three people dining, we paid just 103 EUR, which included a liter of house wine. We shared two appetizers, and two of us had veal dishes, one had just spaghetti. We each enjoyed coffee and dessert. It is a very, very friendly and pleasant place. We completely enjoyed it. __

The next day, we slept in a bit, and then took a cab to the train station to take EuroStar to Florence.__

It’s my habit to peek into little hotels that look nice, as we wander around in any city, anywhere. I’m collecting research for our next visit, and besides, hotel lobbies are always interesting and sometimes beautiful. While in Rome, I picked up cards from these three hotels, which looked very nice, but also more expensive than our Domus Julia:__

La Lumiere di Piazza di Spagna (Spanish steps), has rooftop dining, is in an old mansion on Condotti street. More expensive than our Hotel Julia, I'm sure. www.lalumieredipiazzadispagna.com.__

Hotel Barberini, Via Rasella 3, a four-star just up the street from the Domus Julia, across from Barberini Palace and near the Spanish steps. [email protected]__

Hotel Bramante, near the Vatican in the 'ancient urban neighborhood of Borgo Pio". www.hotelbramante.com.______


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Old Oct 22nd, 2008, 06:15 AM
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I leave in a week and haven't had too much time to plan things, so am looking for more advice.

I am staying at the Sofitel near the Villa Borghese. More than I wanted to spend, but...

Do I need to make reservations in advance for the Vatican and the Villa Borghese museum?

I was also thinking about taking a day trip to Naples...just to sample the pizza from Eat, Pray, Love. Crazy idea?

Thanks!

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Old Oct 22nd, 2008, 06:29 AM
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Hi ctrican. I went to rome solo this year as well. I believe that you do need to reserve your time slot for Villa Borghese. They let you in for two hours and that's it. If you do a search on this forum with my name, you will get a lot of info. I asked a lot of questions before I went and received a tremendous amount of help here. As for Naples, I can't say, as I did not take a trip there. However, Termini, the main train station in Rome is modern and easy to navigate. You may want to check the Trenitalia web site for schedules to see if you can fit it in. Have a great time!
elcon
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Old Oct 22nd, 2008, 06:30 AM
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If you're staying near the Borghese, you're not in a very central location and will need to take taxis.

The Borghese museum is reservation only (set times limited number of people). Have the Sofitel make your reservation.

The Vatican museum is usually more crowded in the mornings. If you want a guided tour, then make a reservation.
http://mv.vatican.va/3_EN/pages/z-In...zi_Visite.html
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Old Oct 22nd, 2008, 07:19 AM
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Is it too late to change your hotel to a more central location? For me traveling solo (have not been to Rome yet) that is the single most important thing for making a solo trip run smoothly. Ability to walk to (most) everything.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2008, 07:35 AM
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I agree that your location for the hotel is isolated for someone traveling alone.However, if you can get over to the Via Veneto area (where the US embassy is) you can catch various buses or the metro at the bottom the street. The mini bus 116 just near the Hard Rock goes all the way over to Piazza Navona's north side where there are so many things going on and fun places to eat.
Personally, I would go to Pompeii but not go to Naples alone just to try pizza.Naples train station can be iffy unless you are a savvy traveler.I am leaving for an appointment right now but will be happy to help you along with the others if you need more info-I travel to Rome quite frequently so would be happy to help!
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Old Oct 22nd, 2008, 08:55 AM
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Naples is a pretty long day trip -- though plenty do it to see nearby Pompeii. Not sure it would be worth it, although the pizza is the best.

Try Da Baffetto in Rome instead. Pretty good itself!
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Old Oct 22nd, 2008, 10:41 AM
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I did a solo trip to Rome in May. (And I'm also in my thirties. Actually, I was 29 when I went. Close enough.)

If you do want to change hotels, I recommend Hotel Teatro Pace 33. A single room was about 110E -- but it's right next to Piazza Navona, my preferred location, especially for a first trip to Rome. (This was my second)

Things not to miss -- depends on what your interested in.

I love history so for me, the Palatine Hill is a must see, as well as the Forum.

For cathedrals, I loved the Baroque ceilings in Gesu and Sant'Ignazio di Loyola.

To escape the tourists, I would spend a few hours wandering Trastevere and check out the gold mosaics in Santa Maria inTrastevere.

My pizza cravings were wonderfully satisfied in Rome.

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Old Oct 22nd, 2008, 12:10 PM
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I am going solo in a few weeks for 4 days to Rome (after 7 in Florence w/ friends). I went w/ the San Carlo based on recommendations from this board. You might want to get the Scavi Tour in the Vatican. Go to the Vatican website and sign up. I got my confirmation within 48 hrs. It sounds very cool. I will also visit the Borghese Museum and I sprung for a guide so we'll see how that is. I also second on The Gesu and St. Ignatius and also go to the church w/ St. Therese in Ecstacy. If you do stay over by Via Veneto go to the church with all the bones which is right on VV near the Piazza Barberini I think. Creepy. Have fun!
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Old Oct 22nd, 2008, 01:37 PM
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fitznj - Did you get a confirmation with a date and time or just an e-mail acknowledging your request and that they were processing requests?
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Old Oct 23rd, 2008, 05:07 AM
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I got the e-mail acknowledgement within about 10 hrs. of my request. About a day or two later, I got the time assignment for my tour. I paid by cc via e-mail and according to them will receive a receipt for the payment (10 E). I am excited!
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Old Oct 23rd, 2008, 06:42 AM
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The Vatican employees (on the left side exit from St. Peter's) are very strict about when they will allow you to go back to the Scavi office. You can't go past them until 10 minutes before your reserved time. They are usually in a cranky mood because they have so many people that try to enter on that side and argue with them about it. You have to show them your paid reservation and 15 feet further show it again to the Swiss Guard. Last month, there was a lot of construction going on after you passed the Swiss Guard and before you got to the Scavi office.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2008, 08:27 AM
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Ciao citrican,
I agree that if you can change your hotel, better to do so since you are not in the real center. If you can't, learn the bus route and the schedule. You're basically safe in Rome, just no fancy jewelry or big rings, and keep your purse close on the buses. You'd be safe in Naples too, but not your things. The pizza is great in Rome, especially in Trastevere or at Baffetto's, or in the pizza a taglio shops (takeout) and even though it is different in Naples (dough is raised more) I don't think it's worth the trip. Ostia Antica is a great town to see, not unlike Pompeii and it is just a metro ride from Rome center. There's a lifetime of stuff to see, all suggestions are good. If you're in town over the election, email me and I'll give you the contact for the non-partisan election party. Take a look at inromenow.com and italiannotebook.com. Both will make your trip more enjoyable.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2008, 10:08 AM
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Naples can seen somewhat seedy for some people, and it's a long trip. I did a day trip to Tivoli where Ville d'Este has hundreds of waterfalls and the ruins of Hadrian's Villa are nearby and very interesting. It was a great day.
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Old Oct 31st, 2008, 05:33 AM
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italiannotebook - I will be in Rome during the election...I'd emailed you directly, but perhaps you'd missed my email. I would love to know more about the election party!
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Old Oct 31st, 2008, 05:42 AM
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We went on a day trip to Ostica Antica and loved it. There is a nice restaurant there for lunch. It is easy to get to if you follow the directions

http://www.ostia-antica.org/ It is basically taking the metro to the Piramide stop, then taking the train to Ostica. Detailed directions are on the website.

When you get to the Piramide stop, they said to take whatever train is leaving next.

We did all of this with a one-day ticket for 4Euro which covered buses, metro and the train to Ostica.
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Old Oct 31st, 2008, 06:16 AM
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Thanks, Bratsandbeer! I am planning on Ostia Antica for at least half a day and think I will take a full day and go to Oriveto. I leave tomorrow and am excited, but a little bit nervous as I have never spent this much time by myself.

Are restaurants friendly to solo diners? Do people eat at the bar like they do in the States?
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Old Oct 31st, 2008, 06:40 AM
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Best wishes for a great trip! I've not been to Rome but do travel solo. It's fun. You'll be fine.
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