Italy trip report: bad flights, pickpockets, crazy driving and a fabulous time!
Jul 13th, 2007, 09:24 AM
#22
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Last installment - Rome:
We were concerned when we got to Rome that it would be a let down since Venice was so much fun. Between the hassle with the taxi and the stress about the apt (even though it all worked out) we prepared ourselves to still have a really good time, but not expect the fabulous time that we had in Venice. Guess what, we had a GREAT time in Rome! It took a little bit of time for us to get into it since it is a big city and all, but it worked its charms quickly.
We visited Trevi fountain … overrun with tourists in the extreme, but cool, nonetheless. We visited a Piazza Navone, about a 10 min walk from our apt. The Bernini fountain is under renovation with scaffolding around it, but we enjoyed the street performers, especially the guy dressed in a suit and tie that looked windswept, posed in midstep, when you put money in the jar, he wiggles his eyebrows or throws you a kiss.
The Colosseum: We used Presto tours again, with a good result. DS was mesmerized by the colosseum. We spent 3 hours on the tour and it was exhausting! The tour included the Forum and Palentine Hill which many skip, but it gives you a great view of it all. We were very glad to have taken the tour, got so much more out of the visit. After that, we visited the Jewish quarter (looking for Roman artichokes). We went to a restaurant that was recommended in a book but alarmingly overpriced, Dal Pompiere, and the pasta was too al dente – should have sent it back. Don’t go there. It was our only bad meal in Rome. We wanted to tour the synagogue there, but we were too tired, so we hailed a taxi and went back to the apt. for a nap.
Angels and Demons Tour: We went with the Dark Rome tour and really enjoyed it. We do wish that there had been a bit more book discussion, but our tour guide was great and she gave us some wonderful insights into Italian life and culture. We really just enjoyed talking with her as well as seeing the sights noted in the book and unraveling the clues. You have to keep in mind that the book is fiction and the tour helps point out some of the inconsistencies. This tour was part mini bus and part walking with about 20 people.
Our guide had given the tour to Ron Howard a few weeks earlier (he is preparing to direct the film version of the movie). A funny story… Ron Howard was upset that the Bernini fountain at the Piazza Navone was covered in scaffolding and commented to the guide “But they promised me that everything is ready for filming!” She replied, “And you believed them?” Maybe you had to hear her deliver that line, but it was very funny. We visited several churches on the tour, the outside plaza of the Vatican, Castel St. Angelo, Piazza Navone and other sites. The tour was about 4 hours.
Here are some good restaurants that we went to during our stay in Rome:
L’isola della pizza – Vatican area, excellent salads, pasta and pizza, cute place, too.
Al Fontanone – Travestere, my favorite, lovely staff, wonderful food, well priced. We met a family that had been coming there for 35 yrs! The kids, and grandkids were there with them. They had been friends with the waiter all of that time (I think he is an owner now).
Lilli – Piazza Navone, near the River, a mix of tourists and locals, kind of hidden, good food, well priced.
La Scaletta Degli Artisti – Piazza Navone, just off the square. Thought this restaurant was good not great, but it is well located, with a very fun wait staff.
On our last night we had pizza at a restaurant right on the plaza to watch the antics, visited our favorite performance artist again, had a gelato and just took in the sites. The artist prepared to leave as we watched him and we got a moment to tell him how much we enjoyed watching him. He told us that he can pose for up to 2 hrs in the same position when he is fresh in the morning. Impressive.
On our last morning we went to our favorite café on the corner and sadly found it closed. We loved feeling like regulars, standing up to order cappuchinos and hot chocolate with croissants. We went across the street to another one, but it wasn’t ‘our’ café. DH went around the corner and asked the apt. owners to call us a taxi. They were quite nice and the taxi arrived right on time. The driver was nice and chatted a bit about Rome. Once in the airport, we were greeted with chaotic lines to nowhere in particular. We chatted with some other folks who told us that a few minutes earlier a group had cut into line and wouldn’t leave when others protested and they were hauled away by machine gun toting security. Guess they take their lines seriously! One line led to another and DH kept asking people if we were in the right line, finally we find out that we were tangled in with a charter flight and directed us to a counter that has no line. Yes! Time for a little duty free shopping! There are a pair of Ferragamos with my name on them, DH and DS find a few last minutes trinkets and gifts and we are good to go. Unfortunately the plane takes off about 1.5 hrs late. They make up most of it in the air, but the JFK connection becomes tight. The chaos at JFK is unbelievable. Unmarked passport lines with about 500 people in line (mostly the wrong line). Once again, DH asks and asks and we slip into a very short line (the one that appears to be marked non-citzens, but isn’t). Dropping off our bags again is another nightmare. We literally have to run for our flight, even though I know it won’t be on time since many others still in line are on our flight, too. Sure enough, a 1hr delay. Finally home in SFO, but without our bags. They arrive 2 days later so all ends well.
We can’t wait to go back!
We were concerned when we got to Rome that it would be a let down since Venice was so much fun. Between the hassle with the taxi and the stress about the apt (even though it all worked out) we prepared ourselves to still have a really good time, but not expect the fabulous time that we had in Venice. Guess what, we had a GREAT time in Rome! It took a little bit of time for us to get into it since it is a big city and all, but it worked its charms quickly.
We visited Trevi fountain … overrun with tourists in the extreme, but cool, nonetheless. We visited a Piazza Navone, about a 10 min walk from our apt. The Bernini fountain is under renovation with scaffolding around it, but we enjoyed the street performers, especially the guy dressed in a suit and tie that looked windswept, posed in midstep, when you put money in the jar, he wiggles his eyebrows or throws you a kiss.
The Colosseum: We used Presto tours again, with a good result. DS was mesmerized by the colosseum. We spent 3 hours on the tour and it was exhausting! The tour included the Forum and Palentine Hill which many skip, but it gives you a great view of it all. We were very glad to have taken the tour, got so much more out of the visit. After that, we visited the Jewish quarter (looking for Roman artichokes). We went to a restaurant that was recommended in a book but alarmingly overpriced, Dal Pompiere, and the pasta was too al dente – should have sent it back. Don’t go there. It was our only bad meal in Rome. We wanted to tour the synagogue there, but we were too tired, so we hailed a taxi and went back to the apt. for a nap.
Angels and Demons Tour: We went with the Dark Rome tour and really enjoyed it. We do wish that there had been a bit more book discussion, but our tour guide was great and she gave us some wonderful insights into Italian life and culture. We really just enjoyed talking with her as well as seeing the sights noted in the book and unraveling the clues. You have to keep in mind that the book is fiction and the tour helps point out some of the inconsistencies. This tour was part mini bus and part walking with about 20 people.
Our guide had given the tour to Ron Howard a few weeks earlier (he is preparing to direct the film version of the movie). A funny story… Ron Howard was upset that the Bernini fountain at the Piazza Navone was covered in scaffolding and commented to the guide “But they promised me that everything is ready for filming!” She replied, “And you believed them?” Maybe you had to hear her deliver that line, but it was very funny. We visited several churches on the tour, the outside plaza of the Vatican, Castel St. Angelo, Piazza Navone and other sites. The tour was about 4 hours.
Here are some good restaurants that we went to during our stay in Rome:
L’isola della pizza – Vatican area, excellent salads, pasta and pizza, cute place, too.
Al Fontanone – Travestere, my favorite, lovely staff, wonderful food, well priced. We met a family that had been coming there for 35 yrs! The kids, and grandkids were there with them. They had been friends with the waiter all of that time (I think he is an owner now).
Lilli – Piazza Navone, near the River, a mix of tourists and locals, kind of hidden, good food, well priced.
La Scaletta Degli Artisti – Piazza Navone, just off the square. Thought this restaurant was good not great, but it is well located, with a very fun wait staff.
On our last night we had pizza at a restaurant right on the plaza to watch the antics, visited our favorite performance artist again, had a gelato and just took in the sites. The artist prepared to leave as we watched him and we got a moment to tell him how much we enjoyed watching him. He told us that he can pose for up to 2 hrs in the same position when he is fresh in the morning. Impressive.
On our last morning we went to our favorite café on the corner and sadly found it closed. We loved feeling like regulars, standing up to order cappuchinos and hot chocolate with croissants. We went across the street to another one, but it wasn’t ‘our’ café. DH went around the corner and asked the apt. owners to call us a taxi. They were quite nice and the taxi arrived right on time. The driver was nice and chatted a bit about Rome. Once in the airport, we were greeted with chaotic lines to nowhere in particular. We chatted with some other folks who told us that a few minutes earlier a group had cut into line and wouldn’t leave when others protested and they were hauled away by machine gun toting security. Guess they take their lines seriously! One line led to another and DH kept asking people if we were in the right line, finally we find out that we were tangled in with a charter flight and directed us to a counter that has no line. Yes! Time for a little duty free shopping! There are a pair of Ferragamos with my name on them, DH and DS find a few last minutes trinkets and gifts and we are good to go. Unfortunately the plane takes off about 1.5 hrs late. They make up most of it in the air, but the JFK connection becomes tight. The chaos at JFK is unbelievable. Unmarked passport lines with about 500 people in line (mostly the wrong line). Once again, DH asks and asks and we slip into a very short line (the one that appears to be marked non-citzens, but isn’t). Dropping off our bags again is another nightmare. We literally have to run for our flight, even though I know it won’t be on time since many others still in line are on our flight, too. Sure enough, a 1hr delay. Finally home in SFO, but without our bags. They arrive 2 days later so all ends well.
We can’t wait to go back!
Jul 16th, 2007, 07:41 AM
#23
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Just had to mention that I re-created the Genovese pesto for dinner last night. I think the secret to it is pecorino cheese - I did a mix of pecorino and parmesan. Anytime that we travel somewhere, we enjoy re-creating the foods at home. Of course, it doesn't take much to re-create the vin santo and biscotti desserts that DH enjoyed. We found Vin Santo at Bev Mo and the small biscotti for dipping at Cost Plus!
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