Hi Fodorites -
I can't find my post from last night, so I will try again.
I have a one-week vacation in Feb and want to do a unique birthday trip.
Always wanted to go to Istanbul, never considered a winter trip though.
BTW, been to Greece several times and speak Greek.
We would like a mid-range hotel with a romantic atmosphere.
Would like to walk, sightsee, eat, boat trip up the Bosporus.
Do you recommend a guide? Too cold for a boat ride?
We are pretty adept at planning and getting around independently.
In our 60s, but relatively fit and adventurous.
Thanks for any advice.

We have been to Istanbul by end of February. One day we had snowfall, the next day was nice and sunny. So, be prepared for everything and do not make an itinerary. Istanbul has enough attractions to keep you occupied for a week.

If you stay for a week, I would recommend a hotel in the Beyoglu/Taksim area. We loved the Lares Park - it has a fabulous indoor pool and hamam (and an excellent breakfast with free Turkish champagne).

Be a little careful with your experiences in Greece - the Turks do not exactly like the Greek.

www.laresparktaksim.com

On sunny days, the boats should ride. Decide, when you are there and you see how the weather is.

Echnaton has some good advice except for the ethnicity issue.

i do not know of any turks who have anything against greeks. however speaking greek is not very useful because, unfortunately there are few ethnic greeks left in Istanbul after the shameful policies of various turkish governments since 1935.

Check for a boutique hotel at Arnavutkoy or Bebek for "romantic". Bebek hotel would qualify but usually is expensive. maybe you can negotiate.

Also check Villa Zurich in Cihangir, close to Taksim. The area can be very romantic.

You will not need a guide since you're staying a week. However if you wish to take care of many of the must see places in a single long day, having a guide on that day makes sense. This will leave you to be flexible the rest of the time like Echnaton advised and i seconded.

Thank you both for your insights. I will check out your recommendations.
Will a guide get us to places we might not find on our own, or be less comfortable visiting?

You can get to out-of-the-way ottoman, greek orthodox, armenian orthodox, syrian christian and jewish historic and architectural sites of the last 500 years with a good guide. Some of them you could discover yourself by just walking around and/or following a guide book, but that would not be easy.

It really is up to you. Some would spend the money on a more luxurious hotel, others on private cultural tours.

You would definitely not need a guide for a bosphorus cruise.

There are no areas where you would feel less comfortable visiting alone.

The archeological museum is very good, well worth half a day, especially a bad weather day.

If you see a street vendor selling freshly squeezed pomegranate juice, try it! Also, the dried fruit and Turkish delight shops on Istiklal Cadessi (the main street running down from Taksim Square) are excellent.

You can visit most attractions without a guide. Use taxis - they are very cheap in Istanbul.

I don't think that you'd need a guide. The beautiful thing about istanbul is that you can certainly explore so many things just walking around or taking the buses/taxi. even if you get lost, you will find out something worthwhile to see. and, yes, you can always find a taxi on the streets and put yourself back on track for pretty low cost.
You should go to Sultanahmet and visit the fascinating mosques, Grand Bazaar, Spice Market, Galata (the tower and the area there are unique) and Beyoglu area (espc. Taksim-Istiklal street). If you are interested in seeing more elegant stuff you may go to Nisantasi, Etiler, Bebek, all along the Bosphorus, there are the mansions, boutique hotels like "les ottomans", or on the asian side the Baghdat Street, which is one of the most luxurious areas in istanbul. Depends on your taste and what you are more curious about to see..Everyone will have a unique and individual impression of this amazing city! but you'll never be able to delete the picturesque image of the Bosphorus from your mind again.
Ciao,
Elena

Thank you so much for the insights and encouragement.
After reading Orhan Pamuk's books, I want to experience the sense of place he describes.
And you travelers do a nice job yourselves.