We'll be going to Istanbul next Feb for 4 nights. Yes, I know, the timing is not ideal and the weather will be bad, but unfortunately we can't change the time.

I'm trying to decide where we should stay for the 4 days, Sultanahmet, Beyoglu, or along the Bosphorus? Originally I had my heart set on the Four Seasons in Sultanahmet to be close to all the attractions, but I'm reading that the area is very dead at night. Given that it's Feb and we won't really be able to spend much time relaxing outside, maybe it's not worth it to stay near the Bosphorus for the view? Any suggestions or opinions?

Also, if we did decide to stay in Beyoglu, how is the public transportation to the old city? I believe there's a tram. I've also seen some recommendations for water taxi. Is it too cold to do that in Feb? How about the Bosphorus cruise?

Thanks,
Judy

Stay at Park Hyatt or the Sofa Hotel at Nisantasi. You can always grab a taxi to the historic sights, but Nisantasi will give you a safe and upscale location to enjoy your free time in the morning, evening and at night, with excellent high quality cafes, restaurants, shopping, and a busy people environment at all hours.

If you must have an even busier area, try the Marmara hotel in Taksim. It is smack on the square and the seaside rooms especially have great views. (my daughter was the architectural project coordinator for phase 1 of the renovation the last two years)

The nostalgic Bosphorus cruise uses regular ferry boats which have lots of closed space but may still be droughty and coldish. The scenery will be great, especially if there is snow or open skies. Make sure you get off on the European side, possibly at yenikoy or Sariyer, before the last two stops, for lunch and then take a bus or a dolmus/minibus or a taxi back.

Where you stay in Istanbul depends on what you like to do. My wife and I like things you can't find in your native country, so when we went to Istanbul in 2009 we stayed in Sultanahmet, about a five minute walk from the Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque and near other historical sights. Our hotel was the Sari Konak, a pleasant place with a good buffet breakfast and an affordable suite of rooms. There were no night clubs in the area, but that was OK with us. It might not be for you. To repeat, decide what you want to do before picking your hotel.

Thanks for the recommendations. We also enjoy experiencing things we can't at home. We like history, architecture, local markets, and just wandering around for the sights, smells and sounds. We prefer to be in more of a pedestrian area and not in the midst of lots of motor traffic. But we also love food! Best would be a mix of fine dining and great local hole-in-wall, preferably all within walking distance. Not nightclub goers at all, so don't need that.

For example, in Rome we usually stay near Campo di Fiore. In Barcelona our favorite area is El Ravel. In Boston we like Copley Sq, etc. etc.

Since this is your first time and you only have 4 nights, I think Sultanahmet would be the best choice. Then you don't have to spend as much time in transit to see the main tourist sites.

I think dead at night is relative, we were out every night past 10 and the restaurants were open, people in the street (Nov/Dec) etc.. It wasn't bustling, but it wasn't dead either. We enjoyed sitting in the park in front of the Blue Mosque, watching the fountain, having it mostly to ourselves. We also had a nightcap most nights on our roof terrace, just relaxing and soaking in the view.

Fine dining, and local hole in the walls, aren't really in Sultanahmet though. It is a touristy area, not many locals living there really. Seven Hills right across from the Four Seasons has borderline fine dining, a beautiful terrace, but it may be too cold.

>>local markets, and just wandering around for the sights, smells and sounds<<
If this is what you like, you MUST get over to the Asian side. Kadikoy & Uskudur were my absolute favorite areas of Istanbul (the limited areas I saw at least!). It is full of markets and the hustle & bustle of locals going about their daily lives. It's so alive with sights and sounds and authenticity!

linjudy, please disregard my previous post. I am sure that the other posters will know some areas that correspond to Fiore and Ravel in Istanbul, and will advise accordingly also.

I'm still undecided on this question. What do you think about splitting the time, 2 nights in Sultanahmet, and 2 nights in Beyoglu? I've been reading about the Cihangir neighborhood, and it seems nice/trendy and within walking distance to Istiklal, Galata, etc.

This way, we can use our Sultanahmet as a base for a couple of days to see all the sights in the old city, then take a short taxi ride and visit the newer part of town for a couple of days and enjoy some fine dining and night life. It does mean packing up, but we travel very light so should not be much of a hardship.

You can stay in Sultanahmet area or in Taxim. These are both my favorite areas to stay in Istanbul. According to good accommodation I can suggest you to check for discounted hotels at www.turkeyhotelstours.com. I recommend you to choose 3 star hotel if you are not looking for luxury.