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Old Jun 2nd, 2010, 12:36 PM
  #21  
 
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Dear Hastobe_Katt,

You have an incredible memory and the way you put it in words, the reader sort of lives the area with you, especiall if they have already had similar experiences.

I hope you will not mind this remark and question:

We found that the Terrace Houses in Ephesus are totally unique among all the antique sites we have visited all over Turkey, including pergamom, because they allow you to visualize the everyday life of an upscale family.

Did you not pay the extra charge and visit the Terrace Houses? I think they are worth every penny of the entrance fee.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2010, 12:59 PM
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The next morning we had breakfast at the restaurant on the top (I think) floor. The food was very reasonable and plentiful. We had an opportunity to do a quick email check and facebook update before heading off to the rail station.

The station had an photography exhibition on the platform with photos contributed by local photographers. Some of the views were very evocative - he had captured the spirit of the old parts of the city beautifully.

The bus was already waiting when we arrived so as the departure time approached we boarded and found seats. We got into conversation with a gentlemen who had recently returned from the UK. He was an F16 fighter pilot and had been training at one of the UK airbases. He was travelling back to Istanbul after visiting his mother - who had plied him with large quantities of their local olive oil to take back. When the bus arrived to connect with the Bandirma train we said our farewells and boarded. The train, like the buses, was modern, clean, comfortable and air-conditioned. The journey was very relaxing if long. We left Izmir at 9.15 and arrived in Bandirma at 3.00pm to connect with the 3.30 ferry to Yenikapi. On the way out we had had to get a dolmus between the ferry port and the bus station so we were concerned about the quick connection. We needn't have worried - as you walk off the train you head straight on for the exit or bear left for the ferry - which was standing waiting for us. Having learned the first time that all seats are allocated we found our correct seats and settled in for the two hour crossing. We bought some food on the ferry - pizza and feta börek - about 7TL each for sizeable servings, so not too bad for transport food.

In Istanbul we were staying with another CS host for our final two nights, a lawyer and his wife who lived in Sisli. We sent them a text from the ferry to confirm our arrival time in Yenikapi. They suggested we meet at a hotel near to where they lived. Once we had disembarked we looked for the Sisli bus (at the bus station which is right next to the ferry exit). The number 77 seemed to signed up with Sisli so we climbed aboard. We asked the driver for the name of the road we were looking for and we got blank looks. Oh well - we would get to Sisli then ask from there. At the main shopping area in Sisli (near the new mall - which apparently is the biggest in Europe and built by a Kuwaiti construction company) we got off and started to ask for the street / hotel. After a couple of failed attempts we struck lucky and headed off. It wasn't far from the bus stop so we were soon ensconced with a tea / beer. We sent a text saying we had arrived and two minutes later our hosts appeared - they lived in the apartment block next door!

Our hosts were lovely - so warm and welcoming. They insisted on paying the drinks bill then took us to their lovely apartment - where a large dinner was waiting for us. It looked like Yasemin had been cooking all day! We had a wonderful meal - chatting and exchanging stories. Our room was gorgeous and even had a balcony with panoramic views across the city. We slept very well!
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Old Jun 2nd, 2010, 01:05 PM
  #23  
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Oops in the Izmir bit, camel racing should read camel wrestling!!

We didn't go to the terraced houses. Because we had already seen the reconstructed homes with the mosaic floors etc at Pergamum - and had been generally disappointed with the standard of the rest of Ephesus we gave the terraced house a miss.
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Old Jun 8th, 2010, 03:47 AM
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Our final day! We woke in the morning to find the breakfast table spread with all sorts of goodies. As well as the conventional olives, tomatoes, cucumber etc Yasemin had included several cheeses for us to try (from different regions within Turkey) together with home made preserves. We also tried some rose jam (made with rose petals) that tasted amazing. After a leisurely breakfast we headed out to catch the bus for our 'magical mystery tour!'

The first stop was a lovely old Eyüp mosque. The mosque was very old and very beautiful with a huge ancient tree growing in the central courtyard. Prayers were in progress but, nevertheless, we were allowed inside and up to the women's area (a balcony overlooking the main area of the mosque). Afterwards we wandered around the courtyard admiring the beautiful old tiles and exquisite carvings and gold work. We saw a little boy and his sister dressed up in circumcision outfits visiting the mosque before the deed was done. (I did feel a little sorry for him knowing what was coming...)

From Eyüp we headed towards the cable car to the Pierre Loti café. The view both from the cable car and from the café were incredible. We sat for quite a while at the top enjoying the views, tea...and the lovely meat, cheese and potato Börek that Yasemin had bought (without us noticing!) on our way to the cable car.

The Pierre Loti cafe was the former home of the 19thC French writer, Julien Viaud, who settled in Turkey. (His pseudonym 'Loti' come from the word lotus flower - because he was so shy and retiring). The cafe has lots of old photographs on the wall which gave an insight into what Istanbul was like in his era...and how much development had happened since then.

We walked back down from the cafe through the cobbled pathway of the lovely old cemetery admiring the wonderful and intricately carved old tombstones. From there we meandered through the old streets admiring the old architecture and some of the restored buildings...and seeing the school that Yasemin went to as a child.

We then caught the ferry to head back to Taksim area where we had arranged to meet up with Dilek. The views from the ferry were lovely - and we took advantage of the tea on offer. After disembarking we meandered around the Galata Bridge area eating sweet dumplings and watching the general hustle and bustle. From there we walked over the bridge (past all the fishermen) and towards Taksim to meet with Dilek.

The next two hours was spent wandering the little streets, admiring the beautiful architecture (including a wonderful old catholic church). We stopped at a little cafe to eat tea and cake before saying our final farewells to Dilek and heading home on the metro. Back at the apartment we watched a Turkish music concert while eating fresh cherries before heading to bed.

The following morning we left Istanbul catching the Havas airport bus from Taksim to the airport...spending our final lira on raki and sweeties in the duty free shop!
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