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Ischia: besides basking in thermal water, any tips on things to do/see?

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Ischia: besides basking in thermal water, any tips on things to do/see?

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Old Apr 22nd, 2005 | 01:02 PM
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Ischia: besides basking in thermal water, any tips on things to do/see?

We'll be spending a few days relaxing on the island of Ischia at the end of an Italy trip (leaving in mid-May, yay!). None of us (three female friends) have been to Ischia and we've gotten a few tips from a friend whose family is from there, but wonder if any of you have any tips on things like: fun restaurants, hiking or walking trails, utilizing the island bus system, and best way of getting there from Naples (ferry or hydrofoil?)

Also, is it possible to do a day trip from Ischia to Pompeii? I know this is not ideal, but is it doable?

Thanks for your help.
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Old Apr 22nd, 2005 | 01:24 PM
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The first day trip I'd do is to nearby Proscida -- very interesting and colorful.

On Ischia, do go visit the house and gardens of composer William Walton -- called La Mortella, near Forio.

I don't know what part of Ischia you're staying on, but bus transort is pretty good, and basically they circle the island in both directions. We really enjoyed St. Angelo, which I thought was the most "scenic" village.

Of course, you'll visit the Castello.

We stayed at the main town of Ischia, and enjoyed meals in the garden at "the Orange Garden in town. Also had wonderful meals at O Sole Mio.

We took a larger boat from Naples to Ischia. I would think it should be fairly easy to get to Sorrento, then take the train to Pompeii for the day if you wanted.

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Old Apr 22nd, 2005 | 01:56 PM
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Thanks, Patrick, appreciate your tips on sightseeing/places to eat. We're staying in Casamicciola (well, I think we are; we are communicating by email with a charming lady who runs the hotel we are interested in, but our minimal Italian and her even more minimal English is providing us with lots of fun but little comprehensible information).

What time of year where you there? And did you go to the spas/thermal baths?

Thanks again.
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Old Apr 22nd, 2005 | 02:24 PM
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We were there last week of May. No, never done thermal baths, just not into it.

How's your German? That seems to be the second language of Ischia and it is a major German destination. Locals approached us speaking German -- well, I guess we sort of look it. They are much more used to seeing German tourists than American or British ones.
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Old Apr 22nd, 2005 | 02:33 PM
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There's something about soaking in hot mineral water...ahhh..two of us are big fans, and search out thermal places when we travel (just went to the nearby hot springs last weekend, as a matter of fact; very relaxing).Yes, we've read that Ischia is a VERY popular spot with German tourists. My German is limited to asking for a room/a beer/the train station, etc, but one of us speaks it fluently, which could come in handy.

We'll also be there the last days of May. I know, I know, weather is, well, weather, but what was it like temp-wise when you were there?
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Old Apr 22nd, 2005 | 06:43 PM
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We had beautiful weather, but a little on the "hot" side if anything. Actually we were there from May 29 through June 2 (five nights).
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Old Apr 23rd, 2005 | 03:06 AM
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If you have access to a large bookstore with good magazine coverage, see if you can get the latest issue of Bella Italia. It has great coverage of the little town of St. Angelo, my favorite spot on the island. We, too, were constantly greeted with Guten Tag wherever we went in Ischia and handed the German menu. Enjoy your time there.
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Old Apr 23rd, 2005 | 06:32 AM
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annabelle2
I spent some time on Ischia last spring, and stayed just outside the small town of Panza between Forio and Sant'angelo, Which to me was a perfect location. I went to the Termal baths at Sant'Angelo, which are wonderful, but even more, I enjoyed the tiny bay near Panza where there are thermal waters coming straight from the rocks into the sea, and you can sit in the natural thermal pools for hours. Locals use this place, and of course there were a few tourists. I realized after I got there that this was the place mentioned in the book "An Italian Affair"
which added to the charm.

There is a little bar there, and imagine my surprise when I was sitting among the rocks in a pool and a fellow came down from the bar with a tray of espresso and passed it around to all of us!
If you go to the wonderful gardens of La Mortella in the Island's center, you may be lucky to see Lady Walton, William's widow, who still watches over the gardens, which are fascinating, and include "the largest water lily in the world"... There extensive walking paths.

I don't know what local village festivals happen in May, but surely these are some. .. I was there in Easter season, and enjoyed Palm Sunday in the little Sqaure in Panza, where everyone exhanges Olive branches, and the "Angel's run" in Forio.

Local buses are easy, and the best means of getting around. The buses go around the perimeter of the island in both directions from the port, and there is a boat to Procida which I think leaves fron Ischia Ponte.

Have a beautiful trip!


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Old Apr 24th, 2005 | 07:09 AM
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Thanks for all the great information, all of you. Patrick, as we had late-season snow yesteday, hot weather sounds great to me! I will look for that magazine today, Julie.

Bellastar, I had read some of your Ischia posts earlier and they were very helpful, as is your latest -- thanks!

I'm intrigued with the hot spring near Panza that you mention. Is this someplace that we could find if we took the bus there? Also, what's the "etiquette" for hot springs bathing on Ischia? I mean, bathing suit or clothing optional...I've been to many hot springs in the US and in Asia but never in Europe, so not completely sure what to expect. If espresso is being served, I'm assuming a "dress code" lol...

Thanks again!
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Old Apr 26th, 2005 | 09:02 PM
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I cannot recommend St. Angelo enough; it is the most beautiful part of the island. Stay there, if you can. (Best, least tourist-y hotel - Casa Garibaldi. Gorgeous terrace/panorama, lovely staff, adorable local "hotel pets" and breakfast on the terrace.)

Also, if you're up to it, hiking. My family (before I was born, and later with me) has been going to Ischia annually for 27 years and counting, and we always do this same walk - starting at our hotel in Casa Garibaldi, walking down to the beach and across to Serrara Fontana, then walking up and over the island, going all the way either to Monte Epemao for more panoramas/delicious rabbit, or another restaurant specializing in rabbit - the island delicacy - called, I believe, "Il Comigniolo" or something similar. From there, head down to the other beach across the island, Lacco Ameno, then walk around and catch the bus back to St. Angelo.

Pompeii I've done. It's doable, but I don't recommend it.

Best Restaurants -
St Angelo - Emanuela (on the beach. Amazing seafood pastas)
Pietro Paulo - near the Cava Scura. The food isn't great but it's a lovely atmosphere.
Conchiglio(in the piazzetta. Once again, not sure of name but something similar. A better dinner place, gorgeous fish.)
The Apollo-Aphrodite restaurant (by the equally nice day spa. Has great penne arrabiata and a nice view of the ocean.)

Elsewhere
Il Comigniolo (or similar spelling/name. I always forget the names of these places... Ask your hotel staff for the restaurant with great "coniglio&quot

The Restaurant on top of Monte Epemao. (also great Coniglio.)
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Old Apr 28th, 2005 | 03:59 PM
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Thanks for all the great tips. I will print this out and take it -- always get the best tips on this site!

jaded, we love to hike/walk, so very interested in your family's tradition. Two questions: is this a whole day adventure (I know it depends on pace/stops etc, but more or less) and is it on marked trails/paths or what?
We'll check out a map of course when we are on Ischia, but trying to get an idea of the distance.
Thanks!
annabelle
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Old Apr 28th, 2005 | 05:20 PM
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Would this be a good destination for a solo traveler? Perhaps to solitary? Sounds perfect..
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Old Apr 28th, 2005 | 08:46 PM
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Not at all. It's great alone - bring books and enjoy spa-bathing and/or hiking.
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Old Apr 28th, 2005 | 09:45 PM
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I was on Ischia as a solo traveler- and it was wonderful. I went to the Thermal Baths at Sant"angelo for half days (it;s much less expensive if you go after a certain time) several times,and did other things with the remainder of the days.

There wasn't much time for reading books, but you could do that too!

I met several interesting people both local and from other parts of Italy. After a few days of this, you feel as if your whole metabolism changes and you are sort of glowing from the inside out. Well, they say the thermal waters have hidden powers, and are "radioactive"... and I believe it's true.

It never felt too remote.
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Old Apr 28th, 2005 | 11:55 PM
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We were there last May and it was one of the highlights of our trip to Italy! Hope these notes from my itinerary aren't too long....

Off for an overnight on the island of Ischia, which was inhabited as early as 2000 BC. The group had gone the day before and told us how much they preferred it to the Isle of Capri so we should pack our overnight bags and stay. We ended up staying 2 nights! When we docked at the island, I found a phone booth and called Salvatore Gira, a taxi driver that the gang before us had hired. I reached him on his cell phone, asked if he were available, and told him where we were. As I was talking to him, I looked out and saw a guy with longish hair and a red sweater tied around his shoulders waving at me! He was to become our 2 day guide to lots of fun and laughs!

After he drove us to the Jolly Hotel (right in the downtown area) and we secured our rooms for the night, we were off to see Ischia, one of the most beautiful and most famous islands in the Mediterranean. Because there are exceptionally therapeutic properties in its hot springs water, there are numerous spas on the island. Our 1st stop was the village of Lacco Ameno. Salvatore dropped us off at one end of the main street explaining that since there was a festival in town, he could not drive there. “Take your time shopping and I will meet you at the other end.” The street had intricate metal archways set up every 25 yards for the festivities.

Back in the cab again we headed around the island, finally stopping in the village of Sant Angelo, where we parked the car and headed for the Neptune Restaurant for an unbelievable afternoon of good food, wine, beer, and lots of songs and giggles! This small mostly “outdoors” restaurant was filled with folks from Austria, England, and the states. There was a “troubadour” serenading us, but soon the owner passed out handmade instruments so we all could participate! The weather was ideal….the food was wonderful…and the fun just kept happening! After our 2 hour leisurely lunch we hit the shops in Sant Angelo and then headed back to the port of Ischia…..

The Jolly Hotel, part of a chain, caters to a mostly German cliental that come there for the spas and massage treatments. After a morning of shopping, we met Salvatore about 11 AM for our 2nd day of exploring Ischia. We were off to the Castello Aragonese in Ishia Ponte. The castle, standing on a roundish steep sided rock, is connected to the island by a bridge that is over 650 feet long. It is an agglomeration of structures spanning several periods from the 11th century on, all built within fortified perimeter walls.

On the grounds is the Convent of Clarissa where in the 16th century, an austere order of nuns called the Poor Clares spent their days in prayer, penance, contemplation, severe fasts and hard labor. When one of them died, the corpse was placed in a carved stone seat to putrefy. The Poor Clares were required to visit these rotting figures each day, as a reminder of what awaits us all. As we made our way down a dark turning underground tunnel toward the exit, we reached an entrance to a small museum type collection of pictures and examples of the various types of paraphernalia used for torture in Medieval times. That exhibit was astounding!

We could have spent the whole day exploring the grounds and buildings, but Salvatore had other plans.
We left the castle and Salvatore drove us to the Lido di Maronti, a beautiful stretch of beach for another leisurely lunch. We decided to spend another night at the Jolly Hotel and take the ferry the next day to the island of Procida.

Off by ferry to Procida…lovely, uncomplicated and tiny…it is in many ways the archetypal image of all that an “Italian island” evokes in anyone’s mind.
In scenic terms this is the place to admire what the Italians call “spontaneous” or folklore Mediterranean architecture. Procida has strong artistic traditions and is considered the painters’ island par excellence.

But today, after several days of a garbage strike, it is anything but a wonderful place to be. Only Bill could eat lunch after we walked to the Marina di Corricella, Procida’s most iconic sight. Singled out for the waterfront scenes in Il Postino (The Postman, the 1995 Oscar winner for Best Foreign Film) this fisherman’s cove is one of the most eye popping villages in Campania-a rainbow-hue, horizontal version of Positano. There are hundreds of colorful houses threaded by numerous scalatinelli (staircase streets.) When there was talk of converting the prison into a hotel, the locals shuddered. They preferred the “cons” to any Capri-like transformation of their idyllic life.







halcyon is offline  
Old Apr 29th, 2005 | 12:06 PM
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Now I am really getting excited about the Ischia portion of my upcoming (two week countdown!) trip. Thanks for all the great feedback
bellastar, re: thermal baths -- clothing optional or bathing suits? My experiences here in the US and in Asia have taken me to both types, but I like to know which to expect!
jadedidealist, I am so interested in your cross island hike/walk. Can we figure this out fairly easily?

Thanks everyone.
annabelle
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Old Jun 5th, 2005 | 03:27 PM
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Halcyon,

just read your post. May be traveling to Ischia in August - wondering if you may still have the cell # for Salvatore Gira (driver).

thank you.
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Old Jul 21st, 2005 | 03:01 AM
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Mackie 17...Just read your request for the info on our driver in Ischia..Have a great time there in August!
Call Salvatore Gira ...email : [email protected]
or phone cell: 360299952 (local number)
He is the best taxi/guide for the island! We stayed at the Joly Hotel and he picked us up each day for a marvelous and fun filled tour! It was like being in a movie! So much fun!

halcyon is offline  
Old Dec 13th, 2005 | 01:34 AM
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ttt
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Old Dec 13th, 2005 | 03:20 AM
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Hi halcyon. I'm considering Ischia for next year. My inclination would be to use buses rather than hire a car & driver, but do you think having a car meant you got to places you couldn't have got by bus ? Would you share with us how much you paid Salvatore, please ? Thanks.

And ajadedidealist: what do you think ?
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