Irresistible france
Jan 27th, 2020 | 06:30 AM
#41
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
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joannyc and john183, thanks for your positive comments. We, too, enjoy reading the reports of others which refresh memories of places we have visited.
maitaitom, the weather in Honfleur did us no favors. We're glad that it's relatively close to Paris as it definitely deserves another try. But it did convince Tom that working at the harbor was not a goal of his. The inclement weather persisted throughout our travels around Normandy.
We're busy booking hotels for our Sept. 2020 trip to Milan and the lake area, having had no idea how far in advance our potential choices would fill. Knowing your advance planning, you probably have all your hotels for Portugal booked. Great to have travels to look forward to.
A thrilling moment when the skies cleared and we saw the silhouette of Mont Saint-Michel.
maitaitom, the weather in Honfleur did us no favors. We're glad that it's relatively close to Paris as it definitely deserves another try. But it did convince Tom that working at the harbor was not a goal of his. The inclement weather persisted throughout our travels around Normandy.
We're busy booking hotels for our Sept. 2020 trip to Milan and the lake area, having had no idea how far in advance our potential choices would fill. Knowing your advance planning, you probably have all your hotels for Portugal booked. Great to have travels to look forward to.
A thrilling moment when the skies cleared and we saw the silhouette of Mont Saint-Michel.
Jan 27th, 2020 | 01:55 PM
#43
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
NEXT: THE LOIRE VALLEY
Wednesday, September 25, 2019
Chateau Villandry & Chateau Rochecotte
Morning came too early, 7AM breakfast! We were off at 8 AM sharp and would have the front row seats for a lot of drivingand, unfortunately, a lot of rain.
Our three days in the Loire Valley and vicinity would be spent dodging the rain, tiring of the heavy overcast, and thrilled when we saw some bursts of sun.
We drove for about 2 hours before a break in Angers, with its moated castle. We departed the bus across from the castle. The rain subsided enough that we could walk around the city for a short while. We admired the impressive castle, a massive looking wall fortification, and other beautiful buildings, all of which gave the impression of a fine city. Unfortunately, we would not have time to explore Angers which we learned was a wonderful place in which to live, with cultural and educational institutions, and lovely residential areas. We enjoyed our mid-morning cappuccinos at Au Royal Bar near where our coach parked.
We took a few photos of the nearby church, the wall, the statue in the middle of the roundabout, and then off we sped to a wine tasting experience at Bouvet Ladubay in Saumur. We had the hour tour of the cooler tunnels under the distillery and heard the explanation of the wine-making process, followed by the tasting of three different wines. We think this visit would have been more enjoyable had we not experienced several of these on previous trips. In addition, it was mid-morning; early for wine.
We drove a short distance for lunch in Saumur, a town where the main street was being rebuilt and was a mess. We walked to a nearby restaurant, dodging raindrops, and stepping over broken sidewalks, eating indoors at the La Bourse Brasserie, with our usual limited timeline. The fish and chips, as well as the grilled salmon, were exceptionally good and the service and quickness unusual. The nice restaurant made up for the torn-up streets and sidewalks.
Then we were headed into the chateau region of the Loire Valley. It was at the beginning of the Middle Ages that castles started being built in this valley, a strategic geographical and economic location for trade. The Loire River crosses the country and a beautiful, verdant landscape which enticed royals to build a succession of sumptuous pleasure palaces. A lot of French history was woven into the development and later abandonment of the Loire Valley.
Over the years, the French royalty had lost interest in the Loire Valley and its castles, and preferred to establish their principal residences in Fontainebleau, the Louvre Palace, and later at Versailles. Slowly, but surely, the chateaux were acquired by members of the French nobility. Over time, a large part of the Loire Valley chateaux became private properties, open to the public.
Before our chateau/hotel arrival, we visited the Chateau Villandry, which has been dubbed by some the jewel of the Loire for its impressive castle, but more so for its glorious gardens. This chateau was on track for demolition when it was taken over by the Carvallo family who saved it.
The outstanding, extensive gardens displayed many plots, all bordered by meticulously groomed miniature boxwoods. All varieties of gardens were included: water gardens, ornamental and kitchen gardens: a stunning sea of fragrant green herbs, silvery cabbages, and purple basil. A fabulous display of color with swaths of bright orange begonias intermingled with vegetables was a pleasant sight.
It was raining quite hard. Although we wore rain jackets, and had borrowed large umbrellas from the coach, we were not enjoying the trek in the rain over cobblestones and sand. The heavy pounding rain had the cobblestones floating as we walked the paths. The wetness and cloudiness detracted from the enjoyment of what is a phenomenal artistically designed garden. We decided to return to the coach about 15 minutes before the time to leaveunusual for us.
Finally, we arrived about 5 PM at the Chateau de Rochecotte, our lodging for two nights. Although the Loire Valley is famous for its gorgeous chateaux, most are for day visits only. It was a unique experience for us to be staying for two nights in Chateau Rochecotte in the small town of St. Patrice.
We enjoyed our beautifully appointed room and the elegant surroundings. However, the location is very isolated, and there are no cafes or bars in the area. The beautiful, expensive restaurant was the only option for food; the bar did not serve food. Most of the group paid 66 each for a meal at a restaurant located a distance from the chateau. We had chosen not to join them, not realizing that we would not be able to obtain a light meal at the chateau where we were staying.
Instead, we met Ann and Garry Moulin from New Zealand who also had chosen not to go to dinner with the group. They, also, were not interested in an expensive meal in the chateau. We enjoyed the ambience of the chateau lounge and heard the story of the earthquake in Christchurch and how they were affected.
After a while, we ordered cokes from the bar and brought them to our room to have with a few snacks we had brought along. We werent hungry, as our lunch was plentiful, and we could look forward to an ample breakfast. Both of us were experiencing some hints of colds. At 10:00 PM, were ready for a good nights rest.
Wednesday, September 25, 2019
Chateau Villandry & Chateau Rochecotte
Morning came too early, 7AM breakfast! We were off at 8 AM sharp and would have the front row seats for a lot of drivingand, unfortunately, a lot of rain.
Our three days in the Loire Valley and vicinity would be spent dodging the rain, tiring of the heavy overcast, and thrilled when we saw some bursts of sun.
We drove for about 2 hours before a break in Angers, with its moated castle. We departed the bus across from the castle. The rain subsided enough that we could walk around the city for a short while. We admired the impressive castle, a massive looking wall fortification, and other beautiful buildings, all of which gave the impression of a fine city. Unfortunately, we would not have time to explore Angers which we learned was a wonderful place in which to live, with cultural and educational institutions, and lovely residential areas. We enjoyed our mid-morning cappuccinos at Au Royal Bar near where our coach parked.
We took a few photos of the nearby church, the wall, the statue in the middle of the roundabout, and then off we sped to a wine tasting experience at Bouvet Ladubay in Saumur. We had the hour tour of the cooler tunnels under the distillery and heard the explanation of the wine-making process, followed by the tasting of three different wines. We think this visit would have been more enjoyable had we not experienced several of these on previous trips. In addition, it was mid-morning; early for wine.
We drove a short distance for lunch in Saumur, a town where the main street was being rebuilt and was a mess. We walked to a nearby restaurant, dodging raindrops, and stepping over broken sidewalks, eating indoors at the La Bourse Brasserie, with our usual limited timeline. The fish and chips, as well as the grilled salmon, were exceptionally good and the service and quickness unusual. The nice restaurant made up for the torn-up streets and sidewalks.
Then we were headed into the chateau region of the Loire Valley. It was at the beginning of the Middle Ages that castles started being built in this valley, a strategic geographical and economic location for trade. The Loire River crosses the country and a beautiful, verdant landscape which enticed royals to build a succession of sumptuous pleasure palaces. A lot of French history was woven into the development and later abandonment of the Loire Valley.
Over the years, the French royalty had lost interest in the Loire Valley and its castles, and preferred to establish their principal residences in Fontainebleau, the Louvre Palace, and later at Versailles. Slowly, but surely, the chateaux were acquired by members of the French nobility. Over time, a large part of the Loire Valley chateaux became private properties, open to the public.
Before our chateau/hotel arrival, we visited the Chateau Villandry, which has been dubbed by some the jewel of the Loire for its impressive castle, but more so for its glorious gardens. This chateau was on track for demolition when it was taken over by the Carvallo family who saved it.
The outstanding, extensive gardens displayed many plots, all bordered by meticulously groomed miniature boxwoods. All varieties of gardens were included: water gardens, ornamental and kitchen gardens: a stunning sea of fragrant green herbs, silvery cabbages, and purple basil. A fabulous display of color with swaths of bright orange begonias intermingled with vegetables was a pleasant sight.
It was raining quite hard. Although we wore rain jackets, and had borrowed large umbrellas from the coach, we were not enjoying the trek in the rain over cobblestones and sand. The heavy pounding rain had the cobblestones floating as we walked the paths. The wetness and cloudiness detracted from the enjoyment of what is a phenomenal artistically designed garden. We decided to return to the coach about 15 minutes before the time to leaveunusual for us.
Finally, we arrived about 5 PM at the Chateau de Rochecotte, our lodging for two nights. Although the Loire Valley is famous for its gorgeous chateaux, most are for day visits only. It was a unique experience for us to be staying for two nights in Chateau Rochecotte in the small town of St. Patrice.
We enjoyed our beautifully appointed room and the elegant surroundings. However, the location is very isolated, and there are no cafes or bars in the area. The beautiful, expensive restaurant was the only option for food; the bar did not serve food. Most of the group paid 66 each for a meal at a restaurant located a distance from the chateau. We had chosen not to join them, not realizing that we would not be able to obtain a light meal at the chateau where we were staying.
Instead, we met Ann and Garry Moulin from New Zealand who also had chosen not to go to dinner with the group. They, also, were not interested in an expensive meal in the chateau. We enjoyed the ambience of the chateau lounge and heard the story of the earthquake in Christchurch and how they were affected.
After a while, we ordered cokes from the bar and brought them to our room to have with a few snacks we had brought along. We werent hungry, as our lunch was plentiful, and we could look forward to an ample breakfast. Both of us were experiencing some hints of colds. At 10:00 PM, were ready for a good nights rest.
Jan 27th, 2020 | 04:25 PM
#44
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 0
Sorry about the rain. Sometimes you can press on and still enjoy a rainy day, but I know when I'm coming down with something I just don't have the stamina to press on. You had a gorgeous room to return to and I hope you slept well.
Jan 28th, 2020 | 06:54 AM
#46
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
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surroundings. However, the location is very isolated, and there are no cafes or bars in the area. The beautiful, expensive restaurant was the only option for food; the bar did not serve food. Most of the group paid 66€ each for a meal at a restaurant located a distance from the chateau. We had chosen not to join them, not realizing that we would not be able to obtain a light meal at the chateau where we were staying.
Instead, we met Ann and Garry Moulin from New Zealand who also had chosen not to go to dinner with the group. They, also, were not interested in an expensive meal in the chateau. We enjoyed the ambience of the chateau lounge and heard the story of the earthquake in Christchurch and how they were affected.
After a while, we ordered cokes from the bar and brought them to our room to have with a few snacks we had brought along. We weren’t hungry, as our lunch was plentiful, and we could look forward to an ample breakfast. Both of us were experiencing some hints of colds. At 10:00 PM, we’re ready for a good night’s rest.
Thursday, September 26, 2019
Chateau Chenonceau; Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau
Breakfast at 7:30, especially enjoyable in the beautiful restaurant. At 8:30 we were off to visit the spectacular Chateau de Chenonceau. En route, we enjoyed an educational half-hour coach ride as Mary Lou, our guide, gave great info about the historical time surrounding this chateau.
Chenonceau is known as “the castle of the ladies” as it was a succession of ladies who built, embellished, protected, restored, and saved it. The chateau was built arching the Cher River, and later expanded onto the bridge that crossed the river. And, as we would observe, the whole place exuded elegance, complete with lovely gardens on the adjacent terraces and riverbanks.
Beginning in the early 16th Century, there had been smaller buildings constructed on this space, and the property passed through several owners. It also withstood several political struggles: the French Revolution and World War II, where half of it was occupied by the Nazi army.
Chenonceau was first owned by French royalty, King Francois I and then King Henry II, and subsequently passed to others. En route to the chateau, we heard so many details of the chain of owners and family entanglements, too numerous to recount. Two royalties of interest to us were Mary, Queen of Scots, and Catherine de Medici.
From the parking lot, we walked past donkeys leisurely feeding in their area, seemingly undeterred by the numbers of people passing by.
After passing through the grounds, and the long path up to the chateau, the guide led the group on a walk around the whole castle.
We then entered the interior of the chateau containing many highlights of interest: impressive tapestries and furnishings, fireplaces, ornamentation, and decorative highlights. Many rooms, such the main “salon”, the royal chambers or bedrooms, the galleries, and the library, all were furnished as they were in centuries gone by.
After visiting the gardens, and the sumptuous interior, it was lunchtime, so we chose their self-serve outdoor restaurant. We each had the soup of the day and split a jambon and potato meal recommended by Mary Lou (30.90€). While Margie socialized with Peter and Gail at our outdoor table, Tom explored the WWI hospital display and Catherine de Medici’s apothecary. During WWI, Chenonceau was used as a hospital to treat wounded soldiers.
This visit to Chenonceau Chateau was impressive, our favorite. It’s understandable that it would be one of the most visited castles in France.
After our initial experience of rain in the Loire Valley, it was a treat to have sun! We were rolling at noon or so back to our Hotel Chateau where we had a half-hour before leaving for another Chateau. This time it was the “Dream Renaissance” or Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau, considered one of the best representations of French architecture. It is two stories high, with turrets and sharply pointed roofs. Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau is surrounded by a wooded park. Part of the Chateau projects into the Indre River, a few miles upstream from its confluence with the Loire River.
Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau is now owned by France, whereas the previous Chateau Chenonceau is privately owned. Both were constructed in the 1500’s with the history above. Originally, this Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau was owned by a banker; later the king had a need for money and bought from the owner.
Compared to Chenonceau, which we had visited this morning, this Chateau is much smaller. The guide gave a good description of the exterior of the Chateau as we circled a path around the Chateau. Then we entered and looked at a few rooms inside. As with the other chateaux, the furnishings are quite opulent.
After a while, we decided to enjoy drinks outdoors at the caf across the lawn and were soon joined by other group members. We were the last to leave the outdoor cafe' and the last to board the bus for the 4 PM departure.
We were back at our Chateau Hotel by 4:30 and were glad to have some time to freshen up for the final group dinner at 7 PM.
Everyone was a bit dressed up for the event. We enjoyed champagne in the lounge to begin the evening. The group then moved to the beautiful restaurant in the next room where we sat with Danielle and Cynthia and Garry and Anne. We wished that Gail and Peter could have been at our table, but it was a table for six only.
In the morning, we would drive to Paris, with a stop in Chartres. In Paris, we would stay at the Marriott Rive Gauche Hotel, where the tour officially ended. We would then have several more days to enjoy our favorite city!
Chateau Chenonceau
Chateau D'Azaz Le-Rideau
Friday, September 27, 2019
Chartres; Return to Paris
Instead, we met Ann and Garry Moulin from New Zealand who also had chosen not to go to dinner with the group. They, also, were not interested in an expensive meal in the chateau. We enjoyed the ambience of the chateau lounge and heard the story of the earthquake in Christchurch and how they were affected.
After a while, we ordered cokes from the bar and brought them to our room to have with a few snacks we had brought along. We weren’t hungry, as our lunch was plentiful, and we could look forward to an ample breakfast. Both of us were experiencing some hints of colds. At 10:00 PM, we’re ready for a good night’s rest.
Thursday, September 26, 2019
Chateau Chenonceau; Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau
Breakfast at 7:30, especially enjoyable in the beautiful restaurant. At 8:30 we were off to visit the spectacular Chateau de Chenonceau. En route, we enjoyed an educational half-hour coach ride as Mary Lou, our guide, gave great info about the historical time surrounding this chateau.
Chenonceau is known as “the castle of the ladies” as it was a succession of ladies who built, embellished, protected, restored, and saved it. The chateau was built arching the Cher River, and later expanded onto the bridge that crossed the river. And, as we would observe, the whole place exuded elegance, complete with lovely gardens on the adjacent terraces and riverbanks.
Beginning in the early 16th Century, there had been smaller buildings constructed on this space, and the property passed through several owners. It also withstood several political struggles: the French Revolution and World War II, where half of it was occupied by the Nazi army.
Chenonceau was first owned by French royalty, King Francois I and then King Henry II, and subsequently passed to others. En route to the chateau, we heard so many details of the chain of owners and family entanglements, too numerous to recount. Two royalties of interest to us were Mary, Queen of Scots, and Catherine de Medici.
From the parking lot, we walked past donkeys leisurely feeding in their area, seemingly undeterred by the numbers of people passing by.
After passing through the grounds, and the long path up to the chateau, the guide led the group on a walk around the whole castle.
We then entered the interior of the chateau containing many highlights of interest: impressive tapestries and furnishings, fireplaces, ornamentation, and decorative highlights. Many rooms, such the main “salon”, the royal chambers or bedrooms, the galleries, and the library, all were furnished as they were in centuries gone by.
After visiting the gardens, and the sumptuous interior, it was lunchtime, so we chose their self-serve outdoor restaurant. We each had the soup of the day and split a jambon and potato meal recommended by Mary Lou (30.90€). While Margie socialized with Peter and Gail at our outdoor table, Tom explored the WWI hospital display and Catherine de Medici’s apothecary. During WWI, Chenonceau was used as a hospital to treat wounded soldiers.
This visit to Chenonceau Chateau was impressive, our favorite. It’s understandable that it would be one of the most visited castles in France.
After our initial experience of rain in the Loire Valley, it was a treat to have sun! We were rolling at noon or so back to our Hotel Chateau where we had a half-hour before leaving for another Chateau. This time it was the “Dream Renaissance” or Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau, considered one of the best representations of French architecture. It is two stories high, with turrets and sharply pointed roofs. Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau is surrounded by a wooded park. Part of the Chateau projects into the Indre River, a few miles upstream from its confluence with the Loire River.
Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau is now owned by France, whereas the previous Chateau Chenonceau is privately owned. Both were constructed in the 1500’s with the history above. Originally, this Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau was owned by a banker; later the king had a need for money and bought from the owner.
Compared to Chenonceau, which we had visited this morning, this Chateau is much smaller. The guide gave a good description of the exterior of the Chateau as we circled a path around the Chateau. Then we entered and looked at a few rooms inside. As with the other chateaux, the furnishings are quite opulent.
After a while, we decided to enjoy drinks outdoors at the caf across the lawn and were soon joined by other group members. We were the last to leave the outdoor cafe' and the last to board the bus for the 4 PM departure.
We were back at our Chateau Hotel by 4:30 and were glad to have some time to freshen up for the final group dinner at 7 PM.
Everyone was a bit dressed up for the event. We enjoyed champagne in the lounge to begin the evening. The group then moved to the beautiful restaurant in the next room where we sat with Danielle and Cynthia and Garry and Anne. We wished that Gail and Peter could have been at our table, but it was a table for six only.
In the morning, we would drive to Paris, with a stop in Chartres. In Paris, we would stay at the Marriott Rive Gauche Hotel, where the tour officially ended. We would then have several more days to enjoy our favorite city!
Chateau Chenonceau
Chateau D'Azaz Le-Rideau
Friday, September 27, 2019
Chartres; Return to Paris
Last edited by tomarkot; Jan 28th, 2020 at 06:55 AM. Reason: Delete photo
Jan 28th, 2020 | 07:14 AM
#47
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 0
Tom and Margie, you visited our two favorite chateaus (Azay is mine and Chenonceau is my husband's). We saw both of them again this spring and Chenonceau edged up in my estimation. But it's enormous and overwhelming, and Azay is more intimate.
Your pictures add so much. For people who haven't been where you've gone, it gives them a taste of different parts of France, and for people who have been there, your photos trigger good memories. Your trip report is providing some old and some new for me.
Your pictures add so much. For people who haven't been where you've gone, it gives them a taste of different parts of France, and for people who have been there, your photos trigger good memories. Your trip report is providing some old and some new for me.
Jan 29th, 2020 | 06:45 AM
#49
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Friday, September 27, 2019
Chartres; Return to Paris
Breakfast at 7:30, off by 8:30 AM, heading for Chartres and Paris. We stopped for a restroom and coffee break midway, just off the highway, and arrived in Chartres by 11:45.
The Chartres Cathedral, also called Notre-Dame dChartres, has Gothic architecture, one of the first cathedrals to use flying buttresses extensively. August Rodin, the famous French sculptor, called it the Acropolis of France.
The cathedral is believed to be the fifth on the site. The town of Chartres, only 50 miles south of Paris, was one of the great centers of medieval learning, long before universities were created.
In the 10th century, it became, and still is, an important place of Catholic pilgrimage because of the belief by many that it possesses a biblical relic: a veil said to have been worn by Mary during the birth of Jesus.
The cathedral contains an immense amount of sculptures and stained-glass windows. Extremely impressive! The purpose of these was to instruct, so they mainly depict scenes and figures from the Old and New Testaments.
The oldest parts of the cathedral are its crypt and the west portal, remains of the original Romanesque church that was mostly destroyed by fire in 1194. Amazingly, the present cathedral was constructed on the foundations of the earlier church and consecrated in 1260. Put in perspective, this was more than two hundred years before the land on which we live was known to the then highly developed European nations.
Although the cathedral has many noteworthy aspects, both in its exterior and interior construction, to us the most attractive features are the many and unique designs of its 66 outstanding stained-glass windows, among which are 4 rose windows. We had anticipated having audio sets, but the workers apparently were not present.
The Chartres Cathedral was so impressive that we would have liked more time, but we needed to reserve time to have lunch. After making a brief stop in an Italian restaurant which had a waiting line out the door, we chose another one near the boarding place for the coach. Boeuf Couronne was a lovely little restaurant attached to a hotel. We were the first patrons and received prompt service. The fish and chips we split were excellent, as was the 1666 beer and rose wine (31).
Following this all too short visit to Chartres, we completed the next two 2 hours of our 4-hour trek from Loire Valley. Tom had a great discussion with Brian from New Zealand about Africa and Brians experience moving from South Africa to London to Rhodesia, being drafted into the military there. Finally, he moved back to South Africa and then to New Zealand. We really appreciate interactions with others whose life experiences are so different from ours. We love the learning and the motivation to stretch ourselves.
Upon our arrival in Paris, a group photo was taken with the Eiffel Tower in the background. A guide joined us on the coach as we toured a bit of the city, taking in a few highlights of Paris before arriving at our Paris Marriott Rive Gauche for the end of our tour. That was a Friday night. The following day, traffic would again be impacted by the "yellow jackets" and we doubt that a tour of the central area of Paris would have been attempted by the coach.
We had purchased one extra night at the Marriott Rive Gauche, as Saturday night in Paris is extremely busy and Hotel Le Regent was full. One more drink was offered in the bar, compliments of Insight. But before joining the group to exchange farewells, we made sure that our reservation for the following night was intact.
Our colds were hanging on, both of us coughing a lot. We decided to walk to the corner caf, Au Reveil Samaritain. The onion soup with baguette and a beer were just right for our mood. We enjoyed an extended discussion with our waitress about her life and life, in general, in Paris.
For all practical purposes, this was the last day of our tour. However, breakfast was included in the morning. Many of our cohorts would be transported to CDG for flights home. Our weeklong travel with the group was enjoyable and educational, but we were happy that we have a few more days to enjoy Paris. We hoped that a good nights rest would help relieve our colds and allow us to wake up refreshed for the following day.
Chartres; Return to Paris
Breakfast at 7:30, off by 8:30 AM, heading for Chartres and Paris. We stopped for a restroom and coffee break midway, just off the highway, and arrived in Chartres by 11:45.
The Chartres Cathedral, also called Notre-Dame dChartres, has Gothic architecture, one of the first cathedrals to use flying buttresses extensively. August Rodin, the famous French sculptor, called it the Acropolis of France.
The cathedral is believed to be the fifth on the site. The town of Chartres, only 50 miles south of Paris, was one of the great centers of medieval learning, long before universities were created.
In the 10th century, it became, and still is, an important place of Catholic pilgrimage because of the belief by many that it possesses a biblical relic: a veil said to have been worn by Mary during the birth of Jesus.
The cathedral contains an immense amount of sculptures and stained-glass windows. Extremely impressive! The purpose of these was to instruct, so they mainly depict scenes and figures from the Old and New Testaments.
The oldest parts of the cathedral are its crypt and the west portal, remains of the original Romanesque church that was mostly destroyed by fire in 1194. Amazingly, the present cathedral was constructed on the foundations of the earlier church and consecrated in 1260. Put in perspective, this was more than two hundred years before the land on which we live was known to the then highly developed European nations.
Although the cathedral has many noteworthy aspects, both in its exterior and interior construction, to us the most attractive features are the many and unique designs of its 66 outstanding stained-glass windows, among which are 4 rose windows. We had anticipated having audio sets, but the workers apparently were not present.
The Chartres Cathedral was so impressive that we would have liked more time, but we needed to reserve time to have lunch. After making a brief stop in an Italian restaurant which had a waiting line out the door, we chose another one near the boarding place for the coach. Boeuf Couronne was a lovely little restaurant attached to a hotel. We were the first patrons and received prompt service. The fish and chips we split were excellent, as was the 1666 beer and rose wine (31).
Following this all too short visit to Chartres, we completed the next two 2 hours of our 4-hour trek from Loire Valley. Tom had a great discussion with Brian from New Zealand about Africa and Brians experience moving from South Africa to London to Rhodesia, being drafted into the military there. Finally, he moved back to South Africa and then to New Zealand. We really appreciate interactions with others whose life experiences are so different from ours. We love the learning and the motivation to stretch ourselves.
Upon our arrival in Paris, a group photo was taken with the Eiffel Tower in the background. A guide joined us on the coach as we toured a bit of the city, taking in a few highlights of Paris before arriving at our Paris Marriott Rive Gauche for the end of our tour. That was a Friday night. The following day, traffic would again be impacted by the "yellow jackets" and we doubt that a tour of the central area of Paris would have been attempted by the coach.
We had purchased one extra night at the Marriott Rive Gauche, as Saturday night in Paris is extremely busy and Hotel Le Regent was full. One more drink was offered in the bar, compliments of Insight. But before joining the group to exchange farewells, we made sure that our reservation for the following night was intact.
Our colds were hanging on, both of us coughing a lot. We decided to walk to the corner caf, Au Reveil Samaritain. The onion soup with baguette and a beer were just right for our mood. We enjoyed an extended discussion with our waitress about her life and life, in general, in Paris.
For all practical purposes, this was the last day of our tour. However, breakfast was included in the morning. Many of our cohorts would be transported to CDG for flights home. Our weeklong travel with the group was enjoyable and educational, but we were happy that we have a few more days to enjoy Paris. We hoped that a good nights rest would help relieve our colds and allow us to wake up refreshed for the following day.
Jan 29th, 2020 | 11:28 AM
#54
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Saturday, September 28, 2019
Four Days in Paris
Montmartre Day
Nine hours of sleep helped us awaken more refreshed and ready for the day! Our DayQuil supply, as well as our vitamin C pills, were just about depleted. The buffet breakfast won our award for the best crisp bacon on this trip.
We were happy to have a few days to set our own pace and go with the flow. Our goal for the day was a visit to Montmartre, a part of Paris which sits on a 427 ft. bluff overlooking the city. Some describe Montmartre as one of the most charming, colorful, and unique districts of Paris. Our visit in 2007 was dramatically ended with a sudden rainstorm which sent us running down the steps to catch the metro. On subsequent trips to Paris Montmartre was, for some reason, not on our agenda.
This being a Saturday, we were prepared for the traffic issues caused by the yellow jackets. We decided to rely on taxis which were convenient and easily available at the front door of our Marriott Rive Gauche. By 10:30, we were off for the day.
En route to Montmartre we enjoyed a tour through different sections of Paris. One thing we enjoyed about taxis was the advantage of seeing all the sights and talking with the drivers. We had a colorful taxi driver who would talk to the pedestrians in a lighthearted manner as if they could hear him. OK girls, move over! Hed laugh, and it was obvious that he enjoyed his job.
We arrived in the Place du Tertre, the large public plaza at the heart of Montmartre. At 11 AM, it was already packed with people! Our driver skillfully inched his way up the crowded cobblestoned street.
Since Montmartre has an array of steep hills, walking them to view all the sights would be exhausting. We had read about Le Petit Train de Montmartre the small tour train which traverses many of the main streets, so we opted to take advantage of it.
Montmartre was an independent commune located just outside Paris until 1860 when it became part of the city. At the end of the 19th century, the neighborhood was avoided by many Parisians due to the cabarets and brothels that had opened in the area. However, many famous artists decided to make their homes there during this period, transforming it into the unique and surprising district it is today.
Montmartre can be divided into two completely different areas. The first near Place Pigalle is defined by its numerous neon lights and cabarets, including the renowned Moulin Rouge. The second is the more bohemian part with the Place du Tertre as its hub. At the top of Montmartre, a maze of narrow and steep streets and alleys leads to the Basilica of the Sacre-Coeur. This area can be reached either by climbing a few hundred steps, taking the funicular, whose lined stretched quite a way this day, catching a bus, or, in our case, arriving by taxi.
From the tourist train, one can get a good view from the bottom of the Sacre-Coeur hill. The ever-white, gleaming basilica results from the use of a travertine stone. When it rains, the stone reacts to the water and secretes calcite which acts like a bleaching agent.
Although the train ride Is less than an hour, the stop at the Pigalle section allowed others to board. On the return ride up to Place du Tertre, we sat with a couple of Canadians and enjoyed some good laughs with them.
Montmartre has a rich and complex history, and for the relatively small size of this area, has many things of interest to explore. By the end of the 19th century, the district became the principal artistic center of Paris. There is so much history of the time to imbibe. We would like to have walked in the cemetery where many famous people have lived, visited the homes and studios of artists, as well as the museums, and seen the vineyards. These and other interests would require a return visit.
After the train ride, we walked a bit, checking out many of the cafes on top of the bluff which is rather flat for several blocks. We chose Caf Le Ceni for lunch. Each of us had a famous French pot meal, bourguignon, which we judged just average, especially when compared with the super tender and delicious beef we had experienced at dinner about a week ago. Of course, beer and rose with the meal, capped off with cappuccinos (67).
The highlight of the meal was our conversation with two German women seated next to us. One taught English to immigrants in Germany, mainly from Iran, and spoke of the complications involvedcultural and religious. One difficulty was overcoming the predominance of the men over their wives. She said she took control, and told the men, at times, that she was not addressing them, but wanted a response from the women.
Soon after the meal, we roamed a bit more, and decided on dessert at a small crepe/ice cream parlor. We each had a Nutella (chocolate flavor) crepe and used their one room toilette which had a tricky sliding door and a foot petal to turn the water on. We had to wait in line because the facilities were so poor, but, at least, moderately clean. A new experience!
We headed over to Sacre-Coeur, the large unique Romanesque-Byzantine style basilica which is Montmartres most recognizable landmark. Its front steps are an amazing spot from which to admire the city of Paris from a distance. We took many scenic photos and made a visit inside the church.
We were again impressed by the size of the interior, the beauty of the stained-glass windows and the great mosaic covering the apse. This mosaic, which depicts Jesus Christ with outstretched arms, is one of the worlds largest.
Following our visit to Sacre-Coeur, we roamed around Place du Tertre, admiring the work of the artists surrounding the plaza. We spotted an original oil which appealed to us and told the artist that we would have a cup of cappuccino to think about it. He directed us to a small caf, Le Rouge, across from the large outside sitting area. After that break, we immediately walked back and purchased the painting. After the artist wrapped it, he invited us to follow him a short block toward Sacre-Coeur to spot the exact place from which our selection had been painted. He even took a photo of us on our Panasonic Lumix camera.
This square of Place du Tertre was teeming with people, eating in the many outdoor cafes, and viewing the paintings of the many artists who surrounded the perimeter of the square. The artists were reminiscent of those who had formerly made their homes and studios on Montmartre.
When we were ready to leave, we were lucky to find the taxi stand where the cabs intermittently stop. As a cab dropped off some passengers, we showed him the address of our hotel and he nodded for us to get in.
We returned to our hotel about 6:30 for a brief rest in our Room #821, 80 plus steps from elevator, which was noticeable after walking so much during the day. After a little catch-up on notes and readiness for the following day, we decided to again stick close to our hotel for a very casual dinner.
Scene of the oil we purchased
Sacre'-Coeur from Le Petit Train
Fun Lunch on Place du Tertre
Windy! Sacre'-Coeur steps overlooking the city
Stained glass entitled: Ecce Lignum Crucis
We looked forward to another 9-hour sleep before a taxi ride to Saint Sulpice for the 11 AM Mass in the morning. Our plan was to store our luggage at the Marriott Hotel while we were at St. Sulpice. Then we would return to pick it up before our trip to Le Regent Hotel where we would spend our last three nights.
Four Days in Paris
Montmartre Day
Nine hours of sleep helped us awaken more refreshed and ready for the day! Our DayQuil supply, as well as our vitamin C pills, were just about depleted. The buffet breakfast won our award for the best crisp bacon on this trip.
We were happy to have a few days to set our own pace and go with the flow. Our goal for the day was a visit to Montmartre, a part of Paris which sits on a 427 ft. bluff overlooking the city. Some describe Montmartre as one of the most charming, colorful, and unique districts of Paris. Our visit in 2007 was dramatically ended with a sudden rainstorm which sent us running down the steps to catch the metro. On subsequent trips to Paris Montmartre was, for some reason, not on our agenda.
This being a Saturday, we were prepared for the traffic issues caused by the yellow jackets. We decided to rely on taxis which were convenient and easily available at the front door of our Marriott Rive Gauche. By 10:30, we were off for the day.
En route to Montmartre we enjoyed a tour through different sections of Paris. One thing we enjoyed about taxis was the advantage of seeing all the sights and talking with the drivers. We had a colorful taxi driver who would talk to the pedestrians in a lighthearted manner as if they could hear him. OK girls, move over! Hed laugh, and it was obvious that he enjoyed his job.
We arrived in the Place du Tertre, the large public plaza at the heart of Montmartre. At 11 AM, it was already packed with people! Our driver skillfully inched his way up the crowded cobblestoned street.
Since Montmartre has an array of steep hills, walking them to view all the sights would be exhausting. We had read about Le Petit Train de Montmartre the small tour train which traverses many of the main streets, so we opted to take advantage of it.
Montmartre was an independent commune located just outside Paris until 1860 when it became part of the city. At the end of the 19th century, the neighborhood was avoided by many Parisians due to the cabarets and brothels that had opened in the area. However, many famous artists decided to make their homes there during this period, transforming it into the unique and surprising district it is today.
Montmartre can be divided into two completely different areas. The first near Place Pigalle is defined by its numerous neon lights and cabarets, including the renowned Moulin Rouge. The second is the more bohemian part with the Place du Tertre as its hub. At the top of Montmartre, a maze of narrow and steep streets and alleys leads to the Basilica of the Sacre-Coeur. This area can be reached either by climbing a few hundred steps, taking the funicular, whose lined stretched quite a way this day, catching a bus, or, in our case, arriving by taxi.
From the tourist train, one can get a good view from the bottom of the Sacre-Coeur hill. The ever-white, gleaming basilica results from the use of a travertine stone. When it rains, the stone reacts to the water and secretes calcite which acts like a bleaching agent.
Although the train ride Is less than an hour, the stop at the Pigalle section allowed others to board. On the return ride up to Place du Tertre, we sat with a couple of Canadians and enjoyed some good laughs with them.
Montmartre has a rich and complex history, and for the relatively small size of this area, has many things of interest to explore. By the end of the 19th century, the district became the principal artistic center of Paris. There is so much history of the time to imbibe. We would like to have walked in the cemetery where many famous people have lived, visited the homes and studios of artists, as well as the museums, and seen the vineyards. These and other interests would require a return visit.
After the train ride, we walked a bit, checking out many of the cafes on top of the bluff which is rather flat for several blocks. We chose Caf Le Ceni for lunch. Each of us had a famous French pot meal, bourguignon, which we judged just average, especially when compared with the super tender and delicious beef we had experienced at dinner about a week ago. Of course, beer and rose with the meal, capped off with cappuccinos (67).
The highlight of the meal was our conversation with two German women seated next to us. One taught English to immigrants in Germany, mainly from Iran, and spoke of the complications involvedcultural and religious. One difficulty was overcoming the predominance of the men over their wives. She said she took control, and told the men, at times, that she was not addressing them, but wanted a response from the women.
Soon after the meal, we roamed a bit more, and decided on dessert at a small crepe/ice cream parlor. We each had a Nutella (chocolate flavor) crepe and used their one room toilette which had a tricky sliding door and a foot petal to turn the water on. We had to wait in line because the facilities were so poor, but, at least, moderately clean. A new experience!
We headed over to Sacre-Coeur, the large unique Romanesque-Byzantine style basilica which is Montmartres most recognizable landmark. Its front steps are an amazing spot from which to admire the city of Paris from a distance. We took many scenic photos and made a visit inside the church.
We were again impressed by the size of the interior, the beauty of the stained-glass windows and the great mosaic covering the apse. This mosaic, which depicts Jesus Christ with outstretched arms, is one of the worlds largest.
Following our visit to Sacre-Coeur, we roamed around Place du Tertre, admiring the work of the artists surrounding the plaza. We spotted an original oil which appealed to us and told the artist that we would have a cup of cappuccino to think about it. He directed us to a small caf, Le Rouge, across from the large outside sitting area. After that break, we immediately walked back and purchased the painting. After the artist wrapped it, he invited us to follow him a short block toward Sacre-Coeur to spot the exact place from which our selection had been painted. He even took a photo of us on our Panasonic Lumix camera.
This square of Place du Tertre was teeming with people, eating in the many outdoor cafes, and viewing the paintings of the many artists who surrounded the perimeter of the square. The artists were reminiscent of those who had formerly made their homes and studios on Montmartre.
When we were ready to leave, we were lucky to find the taxi stand where the cabs intermittently stop. As a cab dropped off some passengers, we showed him the address of our hotel and he nodded for us to get in.
We returned to our hotel about 6:30 for a brief rest in our Room #821, 80 plus steps from elevator, which was noticeable after walking so much during the day. After a little catch-up on notes and readiness for the following day, we decided to again stick close to our hotel for a very casual dinner.
Scene of the oil we purchased
Sacre'-Coeur from Le Petit Train
Fun Lunch on Place du Tertre
Windy! Sacre'-Coeur steps overlooking the city
Stained glass entitled: Ecce Lignum Crucis
We looked forward to another 9-hour sleep before a taxi ride to Saint Sulpice for the 11 AM Mass in the morning. Our plan was to store our luggage at the Marriott Hotel while we were at St. Sulpice. Then we would return to pick it up before our trip to Le Regent Hotel where we would spend our last three nights.
Feb 4th, 2020 | 06:59 AM
#55
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Catching up with the journal of our France trip:
Sunday, September 29, 2019
Mass at Saint Sulpice; Transfer to Hotel Le Regent
Up around 7 and down to breakfast about 8:30. We checked out and brought our luggage to the storage area at Marriott Rive Gauche. It was a rainy morning. We easily caught a taxi from the hotel to Saint-Sulpice, a Baroque church, the second largest church in Paris after Notre Dame. It now serves as the replacement cathedral, following the tragic fire of Notre Dame.
We arrived in plenty of time for the 11 AM Mass at Saint-Sulpice, even after experiencing snags in traffic. There was a marathon blocking several streets surrounding the church. Our driver was persistent and spoke with many who were directing traffic at various corners where there were no runners in sight. He was able to get us to the side entrance of Saint-Sulpiice.
On a former visit, we toured the interior, and concentrated on the art in Saint-Sulpice, the famous Delacroix frescoes in the side Chapel of the Angels and the popular sculpture of the Virgin Mary in a special small chapel. This trip we were interested in attending Mass and hearing the outstanding 6000+ pipe-organ, for which it is widely known. This organ is one of the worlds largest, and we counted ourselves fortunate to hear the titular organist Daniel Roth. He is internationally acclaimed, and presently has an itinerary of concerts scheduled for 2020 in several US cities.
At Saint-Sulpice, bells which ring 15 minutes before Mass alert the attendees to an organ medley. Because of our very early arrival, we were able to walk around the church. We viewed the chapel which contains the frescoes of Delacroix on the ceiling of the Chapel of the Angels and visited the chapel behind the main altar which has the impressive statue of the Virgin Mary at its entrance.
Arriving so early, we obtained good seats. The choir was reasonably good, but the organ with its large pipes was outstanding. We were fortunate that Daniel Roth, the renowned organist, was scheduled for this day. We learned that he travels throughout Europe and the US, so we were happy to be attending when Daniel would be providing the organ music.
The Mass, with ten concelebrants, was in French, with a handout translating the scripture readings into English. We were puzzled by the presence of TV monitors in Saint-Sulpice and only later heard that a former President of France, Jacques Chirac, had passed away and would be buried from Saint Sulpice the following day. During the previous week, we had not heard any news, so were surprised to hear of the death of Jacques Chirac.
Daniel Roth played at the end of mass for hour. It seemed like a 100+ concert! Most of the attendees stayed for the concert and applauded at the end. Daniel did acknowledge the applause.
Upon exiting the church, we were glad that the rain had subsided. The large square, which we had recalled from our former visit, was surrounded with white tents selling a variety of wares. The fountains in the square were, of course, still visible, and we remembered the mismatched towers on the faade, remnants of the destruction in the French Revolution. We crossed the street to enjoy a glass of rose at the Caf de la Matrie, along with many others who seemed to be enjoying a midday break.
The taxi stand was located directly across the street and we were able to catch a ride back to the Marriott Rive Gauche to pick up our luggage. Midday, it seemed that fewer taxis were around, and with luggage retrieved,we were on our way to Hotel Le Regent.
We arrived at our fav Hotel Le Regent about 1:30. Sandrine was on duty and was, as usual, friendly and helpful. Tom took the luggage up to Room #42, thankful for the small elevator, as Margie worked with Sandrine to purchase online tickets for the Van Gogh exhibition at the Atelier des Lumieres (14.50) for noon the following day. This immersion experience, where artists works are projected on the walls, ceilings, and floor accompanied by music provided by 50 speakers, would be a novel experience. Sandrine described the event area and told us to be aware of the noon funeral for Jacques Chirac, a former president, which might bring some closed streets around Saint Sulpice. At this point, we had no idea of what we would encounter in the morning!
Our newly refurbished room was quite pleasant with its yellow/gold motif. We had not eaten lunch as yet and were feeling extremely hungry. Sandrine recommended the Caf de Paris which is directly across from L Atlas, a fav of ours.
We walked the couple short blocks to one of the many surrounding streets lined with cafes and shops. Our waitress at Caf de Paris was a gregarious personality and made the meal fun. Margie had her typical rose and her favorite boeuf bourguignon while Tom enjoyed a 1664 bier and his favorite croque madame. Nice place! But having a meal in the mid-afternoon would likely interfere with dinner.
Following lunch, we strolled the surrounding small streets and alleys, and headed toward the Place Saint-Germain des Pres, a hub of the area. Sandrine had given us two vouchers for complimentary desserts at Les Deux Magots. Who could resist? We found window seats inside along the glass-enclosed terrace and were presented with a large tray of beautiful desserts from which we could choose. With them, we leisurely enjoyed cappuccinos as we people-watched.
We finished about 6:30 and noticed that the door to Saint-Germain Church was open as Mass as an evening Mass was scheduled. Paying a short visit, we noticed the refurbishing which has been completed in the church in the last several years. It was more impressive than when we attended a Vivaldi concert on New Years Eve several years ago.
As we ambled back to Le Regent, both of us were feeling the effects of the colds that were hanging on but agreed we had had a long but satisfying day. Starting out at the Marriott Rive Gauche, attending Mass in Saint-Sulpice, transferring to Hotel Le Regent and getting settled there, enjoying our meal at Caf de Paris and the complimentary dessert at Caf Deux Magots, walking around the lively area of cafes and shops, and, finally, paying a visit to Saint-Germain Church, we made it back to Hotel Le Regent to thank Sandrine who would be leaving her shift. She had been extremely helpful and pleasant. We met her daughter who was practicing English by telling us that she is 11-years old.
In the morning, we were set to travel to another area of Paris to experience the Atelier des Lumineres, focusing on the artist Van Gogh!
Saint Germain des-Pres
6000+ pipe organ in Saint-Sulpice
One of huge murals of Delacroix in Saint-Sulpice
Fountain in Saint-Sulpice Plaze
Facade of Saint-Sulpice
Wonderful lunch at Cafe' de Paris near Hotel
Steeple of Saint-Germain des Pres Eglise
Sunday, September 29, 2019
Mass at Saint Sulpice; Transfer to Hotel Le Regent
Up around 7 and down to breakfast about 8:30. We checked out and brought our luggage to the storage area at Marriott Rive Gauche. It was a rainy morning. We easily caught a taxi from the hotel to Saint-Sulpice, a Baroque church, the second largest church in Paris after Notre Dame. It now serves as the replacement cathedral, following the tragic fire of Notre Dame.
We arrived in plenty of time for the 11 AM Mass at Saint-Sulpice, even after experiencing snags in traffic. There was a marathon blocking several streets surrounding the church. Our driver was persistent and spoke with many who were directing traffic at various corners where there were no runners in sight. He was able to get us to the side entrance of Saint-Sulpiice.
On a former visit, we toured the interior, and concentrated on the art in Saint-Sulpice, the famous Delacroix frescoes in the side Chapel of the Angels and the popular sculpture of the Virgin Mary in a special small chapel. This trip we were interested in attending Mass and hearing the outstanding 6000+ pipe-organ, for which it is widely known. This organ is one of the worlds largest, and we counted ourselves fortunate to hear the titular organist Daniel Roth. He is internationally acclaimed, and presently has an itinerary of concerts scheduled for 2020 in several US cities.
At Saint-Sulpice, bells which ring 15 minutes before Mass alert the attendees to an organ medley. Because of our very early arrival, we were able to walk around the church. We viewed the chapel which contains the frescoes of Delacroix on the ceiling of the Chapel of the Angels and visited the chapel behind the main altar which has the impressive statue of the Virgin Mary at its entrance.
Arriving so early, we obtained good seats. The choir was reasonably good, but the organ with its large pipes was outstanding. We were fortunate that Daniel Roth, the renowned organist, was scheduled for this day. We learned that he travels throughout Europe and the US, so we were happy to be attending when Daniel would be providing the organ music.
The Mass, with ten concelebrants, was in French, with a handout translating the scripture readings into English. We were puzzled by the presence of TV monitors in Saint-Sulpice and only later heard that a former President of France, Jacques Chirac, had passed away and would be buried from Saint Sulpice the following day. During the previous week, we had not heard any news, so were surprised to hear of the death of Jacques Chirac.
Daniel Roth played at the end of mass for hour. It seemed like a 100+ concert! Most of the attendees stayed for the concert and applauded at the end. Daniel did acknowledge the applause.
Upon exiting the church, we were glad that the rain had subsided. The large square, which we had recalled from our former visit, was surrounded with white tents selling a variety of wares. The fountains in the square were, of course, still visible, and we remembered the mismatched towers on the faade, remnants of the destruction in the French Revolution. We crossed the street to enjoy a glass of rose at the Caf de la Matrie, along with many others who seemed to be enjoying a midday break.
The taxi stand was located directly across the street and we were able to catch a ride back to the Marriott Rive Gauche to pick up our luggage. Midday, it seemed that fewer taxis were around, and with luggage retrieved,we were on our way to Hotel Le Regent.
We arrived at our fav Hotel Le Regent about 1:30. Sandrine was on duty and was, as usual, friendly and helpful. Tom took the luggage up to Room #42, thankful for the small elevator, as Margie worked with Sandrine to purchase online tickets for the Van Gogh exhibition at the Atelier des Lumieres (14.50) for noon the following day. This immersion experience, where artists works are projected on the walls, ceilings, and floor accompanied by music provided by 50 speakers, would be a novel experience. Sandrine described the event area and told us to be aware of the noon funeral for Jacques Chirac, a former president, which might bring some closed streets around Saint Sulpice. At this point, we had no idea of what we would encounter in the morning!
Our newly refurbished room was quite pleasant with its yellow/gold motif. We had not eaten lunch as yet and were feeling extremely hungry. Sandrine recommended the Caf de Paris which is directly across from L Atlas, a fav of ours.
We walked the couple short blocks to one of the many surrounding streets lined with cafes and shops. Our waitress at Caf de Paris was a gregarious personality and made the meal fun. Margie had her typical rose and her favorite boeuf bourguignon while Tom enjoyed a 1664 bier and his favorite croque madame. Nice place! But having a meal in the mid-afternoon would likely interfere with dinner.
Following lunch, we strolled the surrounding small streets and alleys, and headed toward the Place Saint-Germain des Pres, a hub of the area. Sandrine had given us two vouchers for complimentary desserts at Les Deux Magots. Who could resist? We found window seats inside along the glass-enclosed terrace and were presented with a large tray of beautiful desserts from which we could choose. With them, we leisurely enjoyed cappuccinos as we people-watched.
We finished about 6:30 and noticed that the door to Saint-Germain Church was open as Mass as an evening Mass was scheduled. Paying a short visit, we noticed the refurbishing which has been completed in the church in the last several years. It was more impressive than when we attended a Vivaldi concert on New Years Eve several years ago.
As we ambled back to Le Regent, both of us were feeling the effects of the colds that were hanging on but agreed we had had a long but satisfying day. Starting out at the Marriott Rive Gauche, attending Mass in Saint-Sulpice, transferring to Hotel Le Regent and getting settled there, enjoying our meal at Caf de Paris and the complimentary dessert at Caf Deux Magots, walking around the lively area of cafes and shops, and, finally, paying a visit to Saint-Germain Church, we made it back to Hotel Le Regent to thank Sandrine who would be leaving her shift. She had been extremely helpful and pleasant. We met her daughter who was practicing English by telling us that she is 11-years old.
In the morning, we were set to travel to another area of Paris to experience the Atelier des Lumineres, focusing on the artist Van Gogh!
Saint Germain des-Pres
6000+ pipe organ in Saint-Sulpice
One of huge murals of Delacroix in Saint-Sulpice
Fountain in Saint-Sulpice Plaze
Facade of Saint-Sulpice
Wonderful lunch at Cafe' de Paris near Hotel
Steeple of Saint-Germain des Pres Eglise
Feb 4th, 2020 | 07:53 AM
#57
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Apologies for errors in above posting. I was not able to Edit.
Monday, September 30, 2019
Atelier Des Lumineres; Saint-Michel Area
We went down to breakfast at 9 AM. The service was very slow, because the only employee was delivering meals to multiple rooms. We left, along with another Canadian couple, to cross the street and have a croissant at Le Buci (17. Also, very slow). Frustration #1.
We then attempted to have Angelique call a taxi. However, she indicated that it was not possible as she had just spent half an hour attempting to do so, with no success. The reason: Jacques Chiracs funeral was cutting off traffic from many streets on this Left Bank of the Seine. All taxis were in service. Former President Chiracs body had been lying in state at the Invalide and was being transferred to Saint Sulpice for the Funeral Mass, and finally would be buried in Pere Lachaise Cimetiere, another location in Montparnasse.
Many Parisians we met expressed a love and respect for Jacques Chirac, and it was evidenced by the overwhelming crowds.
Frustration # 2
Despite our planning, we would be doing a lot of walking before we could catch a cab. We would need to cross the Pont Neuf to the Right Bank; walk along the Seine to Notre Dame Cathedral, where several sidewalks were closed. We were attempting to find Rue Augustine where, supposedly, there was a taxi stand. After what seemed like endless walking, we couldnt find that street! Even though we had pre-paid tickets to Atelier des Lumineres, we talked about foregoing our plans. Just about then, Tom spotted a taxi parked at the end of a street on which we were walking. Great! Our luck was changing!
We passed the Republique area, one which we have never visited. And we saw the entertainment venue, the Bataclan Concert Hall, the scene of the terrorist tragedy of 2015, where scores of people were killed, and hundreds wounded. This attack shook Paris to its core. We were later told that the following day, the city was shut down.
We arrived at the Atelier des Lumieres @ 38 rue Saint Maur, 75011, in the 11th Arrondisement, Paris, a bit early for our entry time. This special museum, created in an old foundry, provides an immersive experience into works of art. Using state-of-the-art visuals and audio, artists works are projected not only on the walls, but on the ceiling and the floor. The images provide a panoramic show throughout the space, to a soundtrack where 50 speakers are programmed to complement the 3D experience.
We chose this venue for the Van Gogh immersion, but found a bonus with another Japanese presentation at 11:30. There was a line for those purchasing tickets at the door, but we had our on-line e-tickets (14.50 euros each) and even though it was only 11:30 and early for our noon entry time, we were permitted inside.
We were in good time to use the facilities and walked in when the Japanese show was about to start. We were able to locate a nice seat for most of the hour and took many photos to remember the unique event. It was especially impressive to feel enveloped by paintings like Van Goghs Starry Night.
Following the experience, we walked through a local park, and up several blocks to the major Plaza Voltaire where we came upon the Au Cadran Voltaire Caf facing the roundabout area. We each had a delicious onion soup and shared an order of linguines togate, in which Margie especially took great delight. Beer and wine to accompany.
Following lunch, we crossed the roundabout where we took the first taxi in line. The driver was familiar with the area near Hotel Le Regent but had forgotten all the one-way avenues. So, we told him to let us out at Place Saint Michel and we would walk from there to Le Regent. This trip back had no interference from closed roads as we had witnessed earlier due to Jacque Chiracs funeral arrangements.
We decided to have cappuccinos at Le Lutece to restore our energy a bit. We walked around the busy area, and finally headed back to our hotel. Along the way, we stopped to purchase a luggage belt and a scarf for Margie. We passed several souvenir shops which had limited choicesall seemed to sell similar overpriced merchandise. We arrived at the Pharmacy next door to our hotel to purchase some cold meds to replenish our exhausted supply.
Pierre, who was attending the front desk, assisted us in purchasing tickets for the Musee' Marmottan, a special experience for our last day! While Margie began getting a few things organized in the room, Tom picked up some great crepes at the stand next door to our hotel. Perfect for a light bite after our filling lunch.
Final visit to Place Saint-Michel
Walk along Seine en route to Atelier Des Lumieres
Inside the digital art museum
Van Gogh's Cafe Terrace, at Place du Forum, Arles
Entrance to Atelier Des Lumieres
Republique Center-lunch
Monday, September 30, 2019
Atelier Des Lumineres; Saint-Michel Area
We went down to breakfast at 9 AM. The service was very slow, because the only employee was delivering meals to multiple rooms. We left, along with another Canadian couple, to cross the street and have a croissant at Le Buci (17. Also, very slow). Frustration #1.
We then attempted to have Angelique call a taxi. However, she indicated that it was not possible as she had just spent half an hour attempting to do so, with no success. The reason: Jacques Chiracs funeral was cutting off traffic from many streets on this Left Bank of the Seine. All taxis were in service. Former President Chiracs body had been lying in state at the Invalide and was being transferred to Saint Sulpice for the Funeral Mass, and finally would be buried in Pere Lachaise Cimetiere, another location in Montparnasse.
Many Parisians we met expressed a love and respect for Jacques Chirac, and it was evidenced by the overwhelming crowds.
Frustration # 2
Despite our planning, we would be doing a lot of walking before we could catch a cab. We would need to cross the Pont Neuf to the Right Bank; walk along the Seine to Notre Dame Cathedral, where several sidewalks were closed. We were attempting to find Rue Augustine where, supposedly, there was a taxi stand. After what seemed like endless walking, we couldnt find that street! Even though we had pre-paid tickets to Atelier des Lumineres, we talked about foregoing our plans. Just about then, Tom spotted a taxi parked at the end of a street on which we were walking. Great! Our luck was changing!
We passed the Republique area, one which we have never visited. And we saw the entertainment venue, the Bataclan Concert Hall, the scene of the terrorist tragedy of 2015, where scores of people were killed, and hundreds wounded. This attack shook Paris to its core. We were later told that the following day, the city was shut down.
We arrived at the Atelier des Lumieres @ 38 rue Saint Maur, 75011, in the 11th Arrondisement, Paris, a bit early for our entry time. This special museum, created in an old foundry, provides an immersive experience into works of art. Using state-of-the-art visuals and audio, artists works are projected not only on the walls, but on the ceiling and the floor. The images provide a panoramic show throughout the space, to a soundtrack where 50 speakers are programmed to complement the 3D experience.
We chose this venue for the Van Gogh immersion, but found a bonus with another Japanese presentation at 11:30. There was a line for those purchasing tickets at the door, but we had our on-line e-tickets (14.50 euros each) and even though it was only 11:30 and early for our noon entry time, we were permitted inside.
We were in good time to use the facilities and walked in when the Japanese show was about to start. We were able to locate a nice seat for most of the hour and took many photos to remember the unique event. It was especially impressive to feel enveloped by paintings like Van Goghs Starry Night.
Following the experience, we walked through a local park, and up several blocks to the major Plaza Voltaire where we came upon the Au Cadran Voltaire Caf facing the roundabout area. We each had a delicious onion soup and shared an order of linguines togate, in which Margie especially took great delight. Beer and wine to accompany.
Following lunch, we crossed the roundabout where we took the first taxi in line. The driver was familiar with the area near Hotel Le Regent but had forgotten all the one-way avenues. So, we told him to let us out at Place Saint Michel and we would walk from there to Le Regent. This trip back had no interference from closed roads as we had witnessed earlier due to Jacque Chiracs funeral arrangements.
We decided to have cappuccinos at Le Lutece to restore our energy a bit. We walked around the busy area, and finally headed back to our hotel. Along the way, we stopped to purchase a luggage belt and a scarf for Margie. We passed several souvenir shops which had limited choicesall seemed to sell similar overpriced merchandise. We arrived at the Pharmacy next door to our hotel to purchase some cold meds to replenish our exhausted supply.
Pierre, who was attending the front desk, assisted us in purchasing tickets for the Musee' Marmottan, a special experience for our last day! While Margie began getting a few things organized in the room, Tom picked up some great crepes at the stand next door to our hotel. Perfect for a light bite after our filling lunch.
Final visit to Place Saint-Michel
Walk along Seine en route to Atelier Des Lumieres
Inside the digital art museum
Van Gogh's Cafe Terrace, at Place du Forum, Arles
Entrance to Atelier Des Lumieres
Republique Center-lunch
Feb 4th, 2020 | 09:50 AM
#58
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Tuesday, October 1, 2019
Musee Marmotton Visit
Up at 7. Breakfast went more easily today. Even the Canadian couple who finished just as we entered agreed. Angelique was working at the desk and we explored having a taxi at 10:45 to bring us to the Musee Marmotton, one of the top museums in Paris known for its impressive collection of Claude Monets paintings.
The Marmotton Musee is housed in a lovely mansion on the edge of Bois de Boulogne. Its current fame is the result of an exceptional donation of 1966 by Michel Monet, the second son of Claude. Today, it holds the largest collection in the world of Monet paintings: over three hundred Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings by this master. His 1872 masterpiece, entitled Impression, Soleil Levant or Sunrise, is the painting from which Impressionism took its name.
Were off to Marmotton Musee by 10:45, surprised that there was still heavy traffic. However, we enjoyed seeing the city views. Upon arrival, in light drizzly weather, we saw a long line awaiting entrance and were glad that we had purchased on-line tickets. We were 15 minutes early but could walk around the line and enter the museum. (14 each for a ticket; 3 each for audio phones.)
This Marmottan Musee was the original residence of a wealthy Parisian with the last name of Marmottan; hence the origin of the name. His interest in fine art resulted in a residence that was akin to a museum with its paintings, elegant furnishings, and other objects dart. This tradition was carried on by subsequent owners, with quite a detailed history. Eventually, the opulent residence with its furnishings, paintings, and other works of art was bequeathed to the Academie des Beaux-Arts of Paris.
But for our interest, it was the donation of Michel Monet, Claude Monets only son, of the wealth of works which his father had bequeathed to him.
Initially, we spent some time touring the attractive rooms of the first floor of the home, enjoying both the furnishings, the art displayed on the walls, and the objects on display on the tables.
The Monet gallery was on a lower level which was reached by walking through the bookstore. Stepping into the large, open space with soft white walls, it was super impressive to be greeted by the display of beautiful Monet originals, most quite sizable. Of interest to us was his Impression, Sunrise which inspired us to purchase a print as we exited in reverse fashion of our entrance-through the bookstore.
We had visited this museum on one of our first visits to Paris, having arrived by metro, and didnt recall the space being so large nor the paintings being so perfectly displayed.
Other exhibitions were present, as well as paintings of other famous impressionists like Sisley, Pissarro, and Renoir, but with our self-imposed time limit, we concentrated on Monet. After drinking in the beauty of his paintings, it was time to move onwith good vibes about Musee Marmotton and Monet! A beautiful museum, and what a nice neighborhood surrounding the area!
We were ready for lunch. To reach the area of restaurants, we walked a path through the Bois de Boulogne to a busy street corner where we discovered an attractive restaurant wrapped around the corner, aptly named La Rotonde de la Muette. Margie called it, a classy French restaurant. The interior was beautiful with cherry wood and crystal chandeliers.
It was crowded with businesspeople and other well-dressed patrons. We were seated after a short wait in the attractive bar area. As we were enjoying our delightful lunch, we were eyeing a tempting, though large, dessert being served at a neighboring table. We succumbed, and ordered the same kind of dessert of sorbet, ice cream, berries, and whipped cream to share.
We couldnt help but notice the ambience of the residential neighborhood with its attractive shops, restaurants, and apartments. An ideal, if wealthy, area in which to live.
We easily found the green lighted cabs all in a row at the near-by taxi stand. The return fare was half the price of the morning ride due to the lessened midday traffic. Again, the taxi afforded us the opportunity to see the environment as we traveled the tree-lined street with the many beautiful apartments, which we had missed with our travels on the metro.
Upon our return to Hotel Le Regent, we were easing back to reality, aware of packing for the flight home. Also, getting our boarding passes printed, and scheduling a taxi for the morning trip to the CDG airport around 6 AM. Our flight was out at 10 AM.
Sandrine printed our boarding passes and checked us out. This saved us time for the morning departure to CDG. Considering that Paris is a major city, with 2000+ hotels, many with sky high prices, we think that Le Regent was a good deal for us. We liked the location near the Seine and many restaurants.
Tom did a replay of last night by picking up dinner from the local crepe shop two doors down from Le Regent. Then it was time to get serious about finishing packing. We had mixed feelings: sad that our trip was ending, and that our cousin had just passed away, but a bit relieved and glad we would be in town for his Memorial services.
Packing always involves quite a job: tossing away various brochures, maps, etc. collected during our travels, carefully packing artwork and other purchases, being careful to adhere to the 50-pound limit for luggage. In bed by 9:30! A 4:15 alarm would come early!
Farewell Day! "A bientot, Paris!"
Lovely Monet gallery!
Audio really informative about individual works.
1872 painting: "Impression, Sunrise": the painting from which the Impressionist movement took its name.
Pre-purchased tickets avoided the long line to gain entrance to the museum.
Lovely interior of La Rotonde Restaurant
Tasty meal following by delightful dessert
Great experience for our final lunch in Paris this trip
Musee Marmotton Visit
Up at 7. Breakfast went more easily today. Even the Canadian couple who finished just as we entered agreed. Angelique was working at the desk and we explored having a taxi at 10:45 to bring us to the Musee Marmotton, one of the top museums in Paris known for its impressive collection of Claude Monets paintings.
The Marmotton Musee is housed in a lovely mansion on the edge of Bois de Boulogne. Its current fame is the result of an exceptional donation of 1966 by Michel Monet, the second son of Claude. Today, it holds the largest collection in the world of Monet paintings: over three hundred Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings by this master. His 1872 masterpiece, entitled Impression, Soleil Levant or Sunrise, is the painting from which Impressionism took its name.
Were off to Marmotton Musee by 10:45, surprised that there was still heavy traffic. However, we enjoyed seeing the city views. Upon arrival, in light drizzly weather, we saw a long line awaiting entrance and were glad that we had purchased on-line tickets. We were 15 minutes early but could walk around the line and enter the museum. (14 each for a ticket; 3 each for audio phones.)
This Marmottan Musee was the original residence of a wealthy Parisian with the last name of Marmottan; hence the origin of the name. His interest in fine art resulted in a residence that was akin to a museum with its paintings, elegant furnishings, and other objects dart. This tradition was carried on by subsequent owners, with quite a detailed history. Eventually, the opulent residence with its furnishings, paintings, and other works of art was bequeathed to the Academie des Beaux-Arts of Paris.
But for our interest, it was the donation of Michel Monet, Claude Monets only son, of the wealth of works which his father had bequeathed to him.
Initially, we spent some time touring the attractive rooms of the first floor of the home, enjoying both the furnishings, the art displayed on the walls, and the objects on display on the tables.
The Monet gallery was on a lower level which was reached by walking through the bookstore. Stepping into the large, open space with soft white walls, it was super impressive to be greeted by the display of beautiful Monet originals, most quite sizable. Of interest to us was his Impression, Sunrise which inspired us to purchase a print as we exited in reverse fashion of our entrance-through the bookstore.
We had visited this museum on one of our first visits to Paris, having arrived by metro, and didnt recall the space being so large nor the paintings being so perfectly displayed.
Other exhibitions were present, as well as paintings of other famous impressionists like Sisley, Pissarro, and Renoir, but with our self-imposed time limit, we concentrated on Monet. After drinking in the beauty of his paintings, it was time to move onwith good vibes about Musee Marmotton and Monet! A beautiful museum, and what a nice neighborhood surrounding the area!
We were ready for lunch. To reach the area of restaurants, we walked a path through the Bois de Boulogne to a busy street corner where we discovered an attractive restaurant wrapped around the corner, aptly named La Rotonde de la Muette. Margie called it, a classy French restaurant. The interior was beautiful with cherry wood and crystal chandeliers.
It was crowded with businesspeople and other well-dressed patrons. We were seated after a short wait in the attractive bar area. As we were enjoying our delightful lunch, we were eyeing a tempting, though large, dessert being served at a neighboring table. We succumbed, and ordered the same kind of dessert of sorbet, ice cream, berries, and whipped cream to share.
We couldnt help but notice the ambience of the residential neighborhood with its attractive shops, restaurants, and apartments. An ideal, if wealthy, area in which to live.
We easily found the green lighted cabs all in a row at the near-by taxi stand. The return fare was half the price of the morning ride due to the lessened midday traffic. Again, the taxi afforded us the opportunity to see the environment as we traveled the tree-lined street with the many beautiful apartments, which we had missed with our travels on the metro.
Upon our return to Hotel Le Regent, we were easing back to reality, aware of packing for the flight home. Also, getting our boarding passes printed, and scheduling a taxi for the morning trip to the CDG airport around 6 AM. Our flight was out at 10 AM.
Sandrine printed our boarding passes and checked us out. This saved us time for the morning departure to CDG. Considering that Paris is a major city, with 2000+ hotels, many with sky high prices, we think that Le Regent was a good deal for us. We liked the location near the Seine and many restaurants.
Tom did a replay of last night by picking up dinner from the local crepe shop two doors down from Le Regent. Then it was time to get serious about finishing packing. We had mixed feelings: sad that our trip was ending, and that our cousin had just passed away, but a bit relieved and glad we would be in town for his Memorial services.
Packing always involves quite a job: tossing away various brochures, maps, etc. collected during our travels, carefully packing artwork and other purchases, being careful to adhere to the 50-pound limit for luggage. In bed by 9:30! A 4:15 alarm would come early!
Farewell Day! "A bientot, Paris!"
Lovely Monet gallery!
Audio really informative about individual works.
1872 painting: "Impression, Sunrise": the painting from which the Impressionist movement took its name.
Pre-purchased tickets avoided the long line to gain entrance to the museum.
Lovely interior of La Rotonde Restaurant
Tasty meal following by delightful dessert
Great experience for our final lunch in Paris this trip
Feb 4th, 2020 | 10:09 AM
#59
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Wednesday, October 2, 2019
Departure Day
Traveling is the hard part of a trip! Up at 4:15! We packed final items, closed and strapped luggage, and weighed it to adhere to the 50-pound limit. Thankful for elevator to get luggage to the front door! The taxi was waiting and quickly we were on our way. Timing issues are important!
We encountered minimal traffic early in the morning; probably a 45-minute taxi ride. Lots of traffic heading into Paris, but not so much heading out. Charles De Gaulle Airport is huge, so we were happy that the driver got us to Terminal 2 for Delta. Once arriving at the terminal, we had to find the desk to check in and get rid of our luggage. There are several security-related checks along the way: passport and boarding passes, plus questions regarding our destination, who packed our bags, etc. At the Delta desk, the bags were weighed, 50 lbs. per bag, and were given new boarding passes to replace the ones we printed out at the hotel. Then, the fourth step: Border Control i.e. immigration; and the fifth step: the usual security check, empty pockets, remove computer, belt, etc. Finally, were able to go to Gate K51 and while waiting to board at 10 AM, find a croissant and coffee area, to sit and relax and wait. An unusual and nice find was an area of recliners by large windows that face the outdoor airport runways where we could relax while reading the New York Times before making our way to the Main 2 boarding line when pre-boarding is announced 45 minutes or so ahead of takeoff.
The flight home was unremarkable. The movie/music selections were much improved from our Day 1 flight to Paris.
We reminisced about our stimulating experiences in France, from Paris to the Normandy Beaches, to Mont Saint-Michel, and the Loire Valley, with four final days in Paris. Although we had many enjoyable experiences, our travels were impacted by occasional inclement weather, and by the overarching worry and updates about our dying cousin. We made it home one day before his Celebration of Life Memorial.
After having so many wonderful experiences on this trip, we appreciated time to digest the details of our travels. It wouldnt be long before we would begin considering our next European destination!
All checked in. Morning coffee! Wait in comfort!
Departure Day
Traveling is the hard part of a trip! Up at 4:15! We packed final items, closed and strapped luggage, and weighed it to adhere to the 50-pound limit. Thankful for elevator to get luggage to the front door! The taxi was waiting and quickly we were on our way. Timing issues are important!
We encountered minimal traffic early in the morning; probably a 45-minute taxi ride. Lots of traffic heading into Paris, but not so much heading out. Charles De Gaulle Airport is huge, so we were happy that the driver got us to Terminal 2 for Delta. Once arriving at the terminal, we had to find the desk to check in and get rid of our luggage. There are several security-related checks along the way: passport and boarding passes, plus questions regarding our destination, who packed our bags, etc. At the Delta desk, the bags were weighed, 50 lbs. per bag, and were given new boarding passes to replace the ones we printed out at the hotel. Then, the fourth step: Border Control i.e. immigration; and the fifth step: the usual security check, empty pockets, remove computer, belt, etc. Finally, were able to go to Gate K51 and while waiting to board at 10 AM, find a croissant and coffee area, to sit and relax and wait. An unusual and nice find was an area of recliners by large windows that face the outdoor airport runways where we could relax while reading the New York Times before making our way to the Main 2 boarding line when pre-boarding is announced 45 minutes or so ahead of takeoff.
The flight home was unremarkable. The movie/music selections were much improved from our Day 1 flight to Paris.
We reminisced about our stimulating experiences in France, from Paris to the Normandy Beaches, to Mont Saint-Michel, and the Loire Valley, with four final days in Paris. Although we had many enjoyable experiences, our travels were impacted by occasional inclement weather, and by the overarching worry and updates about our dying cousin. We made it home one day before his Celebration of Life Memorial.
After having so many wonderful experiences on this trip, we appreciated time to digest the details of our travels. It wouldnt be long before we would begin considering our next European destination!
All checked in. Morning coffee! Wait in comfort!
