My fiance and I traveled to Ireland for just under a week after securing a fabulous deal on Expedia. We stayed at the Grand Canal Hotel which is in the Ballsbridge section of the city. It is about a 20 minute walk to Trinity College area, and an additional 10 or so minutes to the Temple Bar/Christ Church area. Overall i would recommend it for value and efficiency. Although after a day of touring, the walks would seem endless back to the hotel, but the staff were great and always promptly responded to any concerns/requests we had.

So, onto the report:

Day 1-Arrived at Dublin Inlt. Airport about mid-morning. Bought two tickets on the Aircoach bus (we tooks the Ballsbridge line although they offer 2 other routes too I think). The Ballsbridge line goes right through the city center area. We were able to check in which is always a plus after a trans-Atlantic flight. After we had freshened and rested, we set off for some initial exploring. We popped into the National Gallery of Ireland. Being extremely tired, I'm sure we didn't explore and appreciate it as much as we could have, but it seemed a quite impressive museum with a substantial collection. Afterward we made our way to Trinity College. I don't know how I feel about the Book of Kells. Although it showcases a monumental period in Ireland's ancient history, paying 9 euros to be squashed with tons of crowds, angling to get a snippet of a look at a very tiny sized book, I am very much torn about this. A guidebook had recommended skipping it altogether and after having visited it, I can see why. However, your admission ticket does include access through the library (which being a librarian was fantastic), but it almost seems like one of those things everyone must do on their first trip to Dublin. The grounds of Trinity were lovely though, so much open green and such historical importance. Before heading back to the hotel we stopped at the Dublin Tourism Center which is very thorough and helpful. They are housed in a former church so it's not something you would typically expect to see. On our way back we did stop at the Molly Malone statue which was a really neat photo op.

Day 2-After hardly getting any sleep the night before due to jet-lag, we started off the day with a delicious Irish breakfast (everyone must try at least once), we began our day of touring at the National Museum of Ireland (there are a total of 3 of them, the Archeology and History museum is the one we visited). It was extremely informative and provides you with an insightful understanding of pre-historic Ireland. I should mention that the National Museum of Ireland and the National Gallery are both free to visit. Afterward we walked towards Christ Church and took some outside shots. I was more interested in going inside St. Patrick's Church, further up the road (St. Patrick's is one of the few Protestant churches in Dublin and it was stunning). It is where Jonathon Swift and his wife are buried, and contains numerous memorials to various wars Irishmen have fought in. I really liked it as they contained flags that had actually been in battles at one time. After our visit we walked back down to Dublin Castle and got tickets for a tour. Sometimes I am not the biggest fan of guided tours, but our guide was exceptional and it was truly a site where a guide is needed. Although the history of the castle is quite ancient, due to a fire several centuries ago, only a small part of the original structure remains. Our last activity of the day was what some would say is the pivotal moment of one's trip to Dublin-a visit to the Guinness Storehouse! I am not at all a beer drinker, but I love seeing and learning about the production and craft of art behind the making of the drink. We had bought our tickets online, so not only did we save a bit of money, but we were also able to bypass the long lines. You simply enter your confirmation code into a automated machine and they're printed out then. The tour is not led by a guide, but is a series of interactive displays. The first couple of floors are all about the production, as you head higher, it has more to do with marketing , etc. On the top floor is the Gravity Bar where you redeem your ticket for a free pint (if you're not a drinker or you have children, you can also redeem your ticket for a soft drink). The Gravity Bar is immensely crowded (it offers an unrestricted view of Dublin) but you can always take your drink downstairs to one of their other bars for less crowds. For dinner, we ate at the Brazen Head which is said to be the oldest operating pub in all of Ireland (dates from Viking times). The food was extremely good. Just a note on eating in pubs-most offer full menus although there are no formalities such as being shown to a seat. You simply go in and take a seat whereever, and then someone will bring you a menu.

I still have some more days to write on, but hopefully I've provided a good start and enjoyable read.

Great start, librarychica! Sounds like a very nice trip so far.

It was interesting to me to read about your experience seeing the Book of Kells. The only time I've seen it was on my first trip to Ireland, in 1982. It was late May and my husband and I were the only two people in the library at the time!

Could I ask you a favor? When you come back to continue your report, which I'm looking forward to, could you please break it up in to more paragraphs? It makes reading online much easier. Especially for those of us "beyond a certain age"!

Continuation of the trip report:

Day 3-We woke up and went to the Temple Bar area where we participated on the 1916 Rebellion Walking Tour. It is something I would highly recommend. Although I am interested in history and so knew a bit about the events of the 1916 uprising against England, the amount of information conveyed on the tour will blow you away. Although you do a bit of walking, the tour is led more or less at a leisurely pace. You visit sites on both north and south of the Liffey (the river that divides Dublin). It is 12 euros per person, but I know you can book on Expedia so you would save a bit that way regarding the exchange rate (you just print out the voucher and hand it to the guide). The tour was supposed to last for 2 hours, but it went over, so like I said it's not a rushed or harried experience.

After the tour ended (in the courtyard of Dublin Castle), we got a snack at a charming cafe right across the street from the City Hall-Queen of Tarts-excellent lemon meringue tart. Following that we journeyed back across the river to the North Side where we visited St. Michan's Church. The church itself is rather non-descript, its claim to fame are the crypts beneath the church. Our guide there was fantastic, so energetic and extremely jovial with all the tour patrons. The crypts contain beautifully preserved mummies (the conditions underneath the church have preserved the bodies for centuries). Some hundreds of years ago, workers were moving the coffins and stacked them on top of each other. Some fell and popped open.

Extremely near to St. Michan's is the Jameson Distillery. Although I think the Guinness experience is better of the two, Jameson was still highly interesting and fun. This one is led by a tour guide who takes you through the Irish whiskey making process. At the end of the tour, you also are able to have a drink-for those who can't drink hard whiskey straight up, you are allowed the option of having it mixed with coke, ginger ale, or cranberry juice. A word of advice, if you pick up a Jameson brochure from the Dublin Tourism Office, you present it when buying your tickets and it can save 10% off the cost of an adult ticket.

We had dinner that night at Botticelli restaurant in the Temple Bar area. If you dine before 7 pm, they have a pre-fix meal which is a good deal (appetizer & entree). A word about Dublin-it truly is a global city and a real melting pot of the 21st century. So of course pubs can be found on every corner, but you'll also fine food options ranging from Phillipino to Pakistani. So while you'll def. want to sample traditional fare such as bangers and mash and Guinness stew, be sure to pay homage by eating at some of the food establishments of Ireland's newest residents.

Day 4-This was our full day trip outside of the city. We went through a tour company called Collins Tours. We booked through the Dublin Tourism Center. They offered four different pick up spots throughout the city, we opted for a location in the Ballsbridge area. I would recommend the company even if it was a bit pricey (once again mainly due to the exchange rate against the dollar). Leaving Dublin and driving through the Irish countryside, the scenery was absolutely beautiful. The first site we visited was Glendalough. It is the site of some of Ireland's most ancient monastic ruins/St. Kevin founded a monastery there in the 5th/6th century? The ruins are near a lake, and it is one of the most serene and peaceful sites I have ever been to. Although this was the only day it rained during our trip, even the rain didn't detract from our experience being there. Following our visit, we got back on the bus and drove through the Wicklow Mountains. The vistas were incredible. The Wicklow Mountains are extremely close to Dublin so be sure to try to get some green countryside viewing time.

We continued to journey south and eventually arrived in the city of Kilkenny which is known for its medieval buildings. My only regret with the tour is that we didn't have more time in Kilkenny. It was large enough to offer appeal in a manner similar to Dublin, yet small enough to have winding streets and narrow alley ways. If you're looking for high quality shopping, I highly recommend visiting the Kilkenny Design Center. It's right by the castle, so not hard to miss. It showcases the work of some of Ireland's most famous artisans.

Day 5-Our last day in Ireland was a bit of a whirlwhind. A couple of my guidebooks had recommended taking the DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) to one of the seaside towns on Dublin Bay. I decided on Killiney, it was about a 30 or so minute ride from the DART station in Ballsbridge. While the views from the top of Killiney Hill Park are stunning and on par with any of those along the French or Italian coastline, Killiney does not have anything to offer for the tourist. I planned on us getting a bite of breakfast once we arrived and hiked to the top of the hill. After talking with a local, we learned that there was only one pub in the village and they didn't serve food until noon. So we were out of luck. But considering how spectacular the views are, it would be a great spot for a picnic, especially on the sand.

After we arrived back in Dublin, we walked to the Customs House area. Although we didn't go inside (it was a Sunday), it is a building not to be missed. From there we got lunch at the Epicurean Food Hall. It offers a wide array of food choices, mainly all international (Turkish, Italian, Greek). It was very good and inexpensive. It's right off of O'Connell Street, near the General Post Office (the site of heavy fighting during the uprising of 1916-you can still view many of the bullet holes in the building). We continued to walk up O'Connell Street and stopped at the Garden of Remembrance. It was dedicated on the 50th anniversary of the uprising. It is quite moving, as the fountain is designed in the form of a cross. Although we didn't go them, the Garden is near the Writer's Museum and the James Joyce Center.

All in all it was a wonderful trip, and I can't wait to go back and see more of this beautiful country. On a closing note, everything you hear about the Irish people is true-they are some of the friendliest and most helpful individuals you will ever meet.

Thanks for this wonderful report, librarychica. And for granting my favor!

I'll definitely keep the walking tour in mind next time I'm in Dublin.

I really enjoyed your report. We spent only two days in Dublin in june during our two week trip, but I really liked the city. I'd definitely go back.

Thank you so much for your trip report! My husband and I will be visiting Ireland for 8 days this fall, we are planning on staying at least 3 nights in Dublin. I will use your tips for sure.

Glad to see your review. Like us you likely did a lot of walking which can be done in Dublin.

Seems you didn't get over to the West Coast but that is another trip. It is a charming part of Ireland. You did take in Dublin which despite some dissenters I think is worthwhile,
especially with that 1916 history tour. You didn't mention Kilmainham Gaol which was surely on your tour! And you didn't mention the lively pub music (I know you must have enjoyed it).

Ah but you did get to Glendalough and were entranced with the serenity as were we. Our Dublin lodging was on O'Connell near that Writer's Museum. And yes, Book of Kells is special even despite the crowds...remember that was your jet lag day! I'd pass the Guinness tour if I was to give advice.

And now I challenge you to read Joyce's "Ulysses" as I did awhile back and thanks to a study guide actually enjoyed it.

Ozarksbill [email protected]

Ozarksbill -- Did you happen to stay at the Maldron Hotel or Jurys Inn, Parnell Square? Did you like it?

No, we were at the Charles Parnell, something like a B&B, which was fine. This is across from The Gate theatre where we did see a play as well as one further south at The Abbey Theatre. After our days in Dublin we went north to stay in a retreat center (Bellinter House near Trim) for an Elderhostel program, then over to Limerick for another week, then extra days in Killarney.

Ozarksbill [email protected]