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Old Feb 7th, 2005, 06:17 AM
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Ireland: Seeking Recommendations


Author: Itallian_Chauffer
Date: 02/07/2005, 07:52 am
Message: Returning to Ireland this June for my seventh trip in six years. Have booked a self catering house in Killorglin for one week and will have three more nights beyond that. Flying in and out of Shannon on the new American Airlines route. Will spend our customary few days in Watergrasshill and one day in the mountains above Drimoleague, visiting with family. Bringing alone my wife's brother and his wife, for their first visit, and my wife's cousin who is returning for the first time in 30 years to show it all to his 18 year old son.

Looking for ideas, recommendations and little known places. Will spend time in Dingle and Killarney as daytrips. The guys want to golf one day, any opinions on Dooks vs Killorglin vs Killarney vs ??? golf courses?


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Old Feb 7th, 2005, 08:35 AM
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I'm thinking you probably know the SW as well as anyone and everything I suggest may be old hat, but consider these options.

A trip out to Clear Island, Sherkin Island, the Skelligs, Bear Island or the Blaskets (there are more options, those are off the top of my head)

Hike to the tip of Sheeps Head Penninsula, usually a bit muddy, but not a difficult walk.

Take the cable car to Dursey Island off of the Beara Penninsula

Have dinner at the Crookhaven Inn (Mizen Penninsula) follwed by drinks at O'Sullivan's. See if Billy O'Sullivan is around.

Consider golfing at one of the Kenmare Courses.

Lunch at Mary Ann's in Castletownsend.

Walk the beach in Brandon Bay (Dingle), one of the longest (maybe the longest) in Ireland.

Drive the inner road through the RoK instead of the coast.

Follow the route of Pete McCarty in McCarthy's Bar.

Sounds like a fun trip. Let us know all about it.

Bill
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Old Feb 7th, 2005, 09:42 AM
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Thanks, Bill, coming from you that is high praise indeed. Actually, I'm a bit fuzzy on much of the Iveragh, having only driven the ROK once, back in '99. We did it clockwise, in April and only encountered two buses the entire trip. Was driving a VW Carravelle (9 passenger) at the time so it was a bit unnerving - I just drove up into the rocks as far as I dared and made the bus go by first. Dunno if he was too happy about it, but two of the women in my van screamed (and one was my wife- not condusive to familial harmony!) as he slid past.
Never did the interior road - any particular not-to-miss items?
Also, as a perrenial vistor to the Castlegregory side of the Dingle, have you any idea where the Ring Fort is in/around Camp? I spent close to an hour trying to find it one day and finally gave up. Did spend some time on that end of the beach, though. My wife thought it was much more impressive than Inch. Didn't realize it stretched all the way to Castlegregory, though.
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Old Feb 7th, 2005, 10:06 AM
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After playing Ballybunion, our local BnB hostess highly recommended Dooks. It was in the wrong direction for our plans, though. I heard no positive comments regarding the Dingle/Slea Head course except that the views were incredible. Our foursome fell in love with Connemara Championship Course outside of Clifden, although that is no where near your location. Perhaps the eighth trip?
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Old Feb 7th, 2005, 04:00 PM
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Hi Itallian:

I've only done bits and pieces of the interior, that's a goal for the next SW trip. There is a road that cuts through the middle and then gives you an option of heading towards Glenbeigh or Killorglin. Either (or both) of those roads would be a good choice.

I've never actually looked for the Ring Fort near Camp. My best suggestion would be to keep asking locals and see how lost you can get. That's my favorite activity.

Bill
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Old Feb 17th, 2005, 05:20 PM
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UPDATE TO PLANS:

For those of you who read my Trip Report from last June, we have ANOTHER suprise fortieth birthday party - this one for a different cousin, over the Bank Holiday Weekend of the 4th - the 6th of June! Wll probably repeat the infamous drive up into the Coomleigh on the 7th and then hustle back to Killorglin.
Hoping to incorporate Bill's suggestion to tour the Iverragh INTERIOR, and then????
Still looking for suggestions. Will be there until the 15th.

Bob
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Old Feb 17th, 2005, 05:38 PM
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Blasket Island is a fine but somber day-trip if the weather is good. Kinsale is a fun little town.
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Old Feb 19th, 2005, 11:00 PM
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Itallian_Chauffer, If you are doing the ROK again here are some of my recommendations:

1. Rossbeigh Strand (near Glenbeigh): You can only access it at low tide. If you walk far enough on the beach you will come across a neat shipwreck.

2. Caragh Lake: Very scenic and off the beaten path.

3. Skellig Ring: The very tip of the Iveragh Peninsula. No tour buses, beautiful scenery and beaches.

4. Valentia Island

5. The interior route through the Iveragh Peninsula is not quiet as scenic as the coastal route. You will most likely get lost as there are virtually no road signs. A compass might help.


6. Derrynane House & Gardens: Lovely walks and lots of history.

7. Abbey Island: Just off the coast near Derrynane House. You can walk to the island at low tide but be sure to check the tide tables in advance. You wouldn't want to get stuck there all night!

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Old Feb 25th, 2005, 08:39 AM
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This was our trip in June 2004

Bear in mind that we use public transportation exclusively so there may be a slight hike to places but not really more than fifteen minutes from a bus stop or train station.

Arrived Shannon airport on Sunday and caught bus to Limerick. A friend we met at the bus shed told us where to get off and instructed the driver to make sure he stopped there. He did and we walked up the short cul-de-sac to Glen Eagles (not that Glen Eagles, but very nice.) <[email protected]> About 30 Euros pps ensuite. Helen and Patrick Daly

In Dingle on Monday we stayed at Dingle Heights. <www.dingleheights.com, or [email protected]> Ask for a front room overlooking the harbor. Bridie Fitzgerald was our hostess. Very nice view and about 30 Euros pps ensuite. We had our first, of many, bowl, of Irish stew at O'Grady's across from the tourist board along the waterfront. We lucked out and were able to attend a folk concert of harp, guitars, penny whistle at St. James Church. But we heard lots of music around town as we went back to our bnb after the concert. One place is a hardware store by day and a pub by night! We got cheated out of our tour to Slea Head by the well know local tour operator who renigged on our email reservation. So we will have to go back! And use someone else.

Stayed in Killarney at Cloghroe <[email protected]> about 30 Euros pps ensuite, on Tuesday and did the Gap of Dunloe (three lakes by boat and through the Gap by jaunting car (otherwise a 7 mile walk) on Wednesday. Glad we didn't do the Ring of Kerry. Our hostess Margaret arranged the tour for us. Ate at Murphy's, known for it's pub grub.

Had to spend Wednesday night in Tralee since it is a long haul by bus from Killarney to Doolin. Stayed at The Willows, about five minutes from the bus station. <wwwthewillowsbnb.com or [email protected]> About 30 Euros pps ensuite. On Mary's recommendation we went to the Grand Hotel and ate in the pub section. Excellent food. Next day we walked out (rode the bus back) to the Blennerville Windmill before having to catch our bus to Doolin.

On Thursday night in Doolin we stayed at Nellie Dees. <www.nellie-dees.com or [email protected]> The bus driver will drop you at the door if you ask and it is across the road from one of the hostels. Only about five years old, all wood floors, very nice. Jimmy and Loraine Spencer. About 30 Euros pps ensuite. It was a bit of a hike to downtown Doolin but there were two pubs (out of 3) very nearby where we spent the evening eating delicious Irish stew and listening to trad music at McDermott's.

The next morning we hiked into town ("just a wee walk and a right at the bridge&quot. We passed several bnbs on the way that looked nice. We caught the ferry to Inishoor. Had to ride a carrick out to the ferry because the tide was out. That was a neat experience, although my wife was not really keen on it but nobody fell overboard.

Arrived on Inishoor (Inishere) on Friday and headed to our bnb, Tigh Searraigh. About 25 Euros pps ensuite. <[email protected]> Basic but clean and warm. Went for a tour around the island. It is only 2 km 2km so we knew we couldn't get too lost but the stone fences did start looking just like the last one. My wife got her Aran sweater made (supposedly) on the island. We went to pub (Fitzgerald's I think. There are only about 3 places to eat on the island) for supper and music. A bit of wait for the music but the food was great and the strawberry rhubarb pie was so good we ordered a second round. Bailey’s ice cream on it was heavenly. I have never tasted such a delicious ice cream! Called it a night about 10 PM and was up the next day to catch the 9 AM ferry back to Doolin and 12 noon bus to Ennis for our last night before catching our flight out of Shannon.

Saturday night we stayed at Stonehaven in Ennis <www.stonehaven-clare.com or [email protected]> about 15 minute walk from bus station but Marie would have collected us if we had called. Very nice family, especially Joseph the 7 year old. About 30 Euros pps ensuite. Ennis is a market town and we were there Saturday, market day. Neat!

Back to the train/bus station for our bus to Shannon airport and on to Scotland..

You can certainly see more if you rent a car but we didn't want the stress. Also, we noticed that more pubs are catching on to the attraction of pub grub by tourists and are starting to provide table service instead of us ordering at the bar. The price sometimes increases accordingly.

This may be more than you really wanted to know but we had a blast and are talking about doing the same tour again. We did Dublin in 2003 and I probably would not do Dublin again but there is something about the Southwest of Ireland that is magical. I will send you some Irish links if you will send me your email address. We are in Virginia Beach, VA [email protected]
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 06:39 PM
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topping for any further input
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Old May 24th, 2005, 05:25 PM
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Itallian Chauffer,

We just returned from our trip to Ireland.

You recommended the Carriaglea House B and B in Killarney to us a while back. I just wanted to say thanks! We got one of the rooms in the carriage house and really enjoyed it. It was really a nice place. Lots of atmosphere.

Thanks again,
Robbyn
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Old May 24th, 2005, 11:49 PM
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Itallian Chauffer,

Just wanted to wish you the best for another great trip! Am very much looking forward to this trip report and more great pictures!

Sorry I can't help you as you have helped me but at least I get a chance to wish you safe journey and send this TTT as the countdown draws near!
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Old May 25th, 2005, 12:00 AM
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Hey Italian...just thought of something, Have you posted a query on Pat Preston's site? It's www.irelandexpert.com. She seems extremely knowlegeable and the response is within 24hours. Pat has a few others that moniter and join in response too if they can assist.

(now watch, I'm heading that way myself and will probably see your post there already)

Dawn
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