runnerjefff

Never done one of these before, hope it's not too long & boring. Trip was excellent, my writing may be dull. DH & I flew Aer Lingus from Chicago on a Thursday night. Excellent flight, delicious food, good distractions for this nervous flier. Seatback screen had the usual movies/TV but now also has games w/handset. We had aisle seats plus I scored the only empty seat on the plane next to me. Good omen. Arrived in London (through Dublin) around 11am, took the tube to our hotel w/o much problem. Amazing how those Brits can zoom up/down stairs w/strollers or packages in high heels. I really tried not to wear my AMERICAN TOURISTy white tennies unless absolutely necessary. People seemed so helpful: helping tourists lift suitcases and strollers up stairs as needed w/o even waiting for a thank-you. We bought a 7day oyster card. We arrived at the Hilton Hyde Park hotel on Queensway, with 2 tube stations within 2 blocks. Hotel staff was helpful & efficient, and when we mentioned that the room had no view and we'd like a better view on our return, they had moved us up to the top floor, overlooking Hyde Park. We had a delicious inexpensive meal at Bella Italia (chain) and then walked to the Royal Albert Hall for Classical Spectacular live, w/the LSOrchestra. AMAZING! We got there early so enjoyed gallery of photos of past performers. Beautiful place inside & out. VERY friendly people on staff & in the audience. We bought programs when we saw they came w/Union Jacks to wave. I thought "Uh oh, this might be cheesy". But it was very energetic & fun. Some of the usual classical pieces, some pieces from operas, but 'Hope & Glory' and 'Rule Britannia' w/flags waving, everyone singing, cannons firing, and balloons falling really was amazing. You really felt one w/these Brits of all ages. Breakfast next morning at Waffle House nearby : delicious, reasonable & free WiFi. Then across the street to Carphone Warehouse on Queensway. Bought a cheap cell phone. Then we took the tube to Victoria Station. (sorry, I'll try to edit) . . .

We took the train to Hastings for DH's Half Marathon. Scenic, pleasant. But traveling w/luggage was made worse when we found the seats we'd reserved were on a coach they decided not to open! So, mad scramble among about 30 of us to find an "open" spot elsewhere on the train & get our luggage there. At Hastings, helpful people directed us to the best bus to take to BW Royal Victoria Hotel. Excellent place! Sea-front room that was really 1 1/2 room, good WiFi, good service, windows that open. Had to have maintenance up to monkey w/the heater & lights since it was very blustery & cold but they came immed. also, no phone in the room, but they come to your door & knock as your wake-up call. we had pre-race pasta dineer down the block at Azur restaurant, excellent. Good marathon, very very very friendly people! We could watch the race stragglers from our room & yell/cheer them on. Did our laundry two blocks away, had delicious food in Old Hastings, easy to get around by bus, and easy to walk since it was so gorgeous. Fish & chips at Lifeboat restaurant on the shore road was DELICIOUS. The two funiculars on the cliffs behind town were closed until the day after we left, sad. Train back to London after two nights; watched for the powerstation smoke stacks from the Pink Floyd Album cover.

runnerjefff

(continued)
Back at the Hilton Hyde Park better room, more food at Waffle House (still delicious) and Bella Italia (not as good this time and way smaller proportions so maybe go for lunch instead of dinner). We took tube to The Drury Theater for OLIVER, amazing! Always liked the movie/book/play before, but hearing it w/those accents was a treat. When we picked up our tix at Will Call, we asked if there was candy or food there. They said yes, but also directed us to a delicious local candy store! Never before has a theater person told us to go get food! And we had time to browse at Covent Garden & buy some souvenirs. Need to add, we never felt afraid anywhere on this trip, no matter how late we were out. The next day we took a London walks tour of the British Museum, w/Molly guide. I love those walks! Wish there were giant strollers they could put us in though. We hurried "home" for a nap and then to the theater for 'Chicago'. I have to say, we left at intermission. It was in a theater way too small for this & also the costumes/staging were a bit flat. One ting we've learned by middle age: your time & comfort are worth more than money so if you don't like something, don't stay. It was harder to do when we were younger, as we felt we were really wasting money. Anyway, we're both Benjamin Franklin fans and took a tour of his house. I think it cost about $15, and we were able to make reservations the night before. The tour seemed too short, but very very interesting. My DH had just finished a huge detailed bio on BF, but did not know all these little details about his daily life in London. Next morning, we tubed to Euston Station for a train to Holyhead/ferry to Dublin. I really like this station: spacious, clean, lots of eateries. We had very reasonably priced milk, chips, sandwiches and dessert from M&S there. The train trip was of course scenic, involved one change, and there were so many school kids riding it in Wales. Very friendly; one was so excited to be going to Disney World in Florida in two days, on Easter vacation. She could not believe I had not been there. Arrived at Irish Ferries/Holyhead. Beautiful boat, drizzly cold weather, easy comfortable seating. Only went outside a couple times due to pelting rain, but the view was great. Arrived at Dublin Port, w/free shuttle bus to city center. Luckily, our hotel was right across from the bus station. We stayed at Isaacs Hotel, some staff more helpful than others. Found a great little pub (The Met) along the river, were able to request a song from the singer. Good breakfast in hotel's pretty restaurant. Still not sure why "Full Irish" is so popular. But, service at the restaurant was good. My 21 yr old son arrived the next morning from Dublin airport, after taking the hotel's free shuttle. We rested & started pub crawling (yes, he's so happy to be a new 21). Lots of pubs all over, we hit a few on O'Connell St. Tried Temple Bar, but it was very disappointing. Maybe bc it was Easter Break or ? Just too crowded & touristy for us, so we went back to The Met. Next morning took a train to Belfast. . .

runnerjefff

. . . we had to move around so much bc of a few scheduling conflicts. We walked from the train station a mile to our hotel Holiday Inn Belfast. For maybe the second time in 20 yrs, our hotel would not let us check in early. Maybe bc we needed a 3-person room? But we had a delicious pizza down the block at Pizza Express, then walked to City Hall for our scheduled tour w/Arthur (belfastfreetours.com). Amazing. three hours walking in drizzle & sunshine, learning SO much about 'the troubles' old & new & how things are changing. While we waited to meet Arthur, we waited along w/a few others under an arch at the City Hall. (closed/weekend) The minute the rain stopped, the two armed Guarda made us move away from the building. Odd. Didn't know Belfast had a large 'wheel" like London Eye, though I hear they are dismanteling it soon? Can't say enough about this tour w/Arthur. Near the end, he took us into beautiful Ulster Hall and we watched them set up for a performance while he gave a detailed hx. Arthur mentioned the Crown Pub as having an interesting hx, so we went there for dinner. Beautiful place, excellent & affordable food. Next morning, "Mossy", a tour guide we found at blacktaxidriver.com, picked us up. We've been in touch since the trip ended, and will keep in touch. This man is SO interesting, and flexible! We told him generally what we wanted. He gave us a tour of Belfast, and the coast, and got us to my Grandma's hometown of Hilltown where we met some relatives. We stopped at Tolleymore Forest. Truly, Mossy is amazing! Hmm, this TR is getting too long. Next day we took train back to Dublin for 3 more days, Holiday Inn on Pearse Street. HopOnHopOff Tour, The Met & Arlington & other friendly pubs along the river, Mona Lisa for reasonable & good food (12-7 weekdays: buy one pizza or pasta, get one free), toured Trinity College/Book of Kells, shopped at St. Stephen's Green. Was able to have a Mass said for a dying Irish friend. On the last day, it snowed. But I took a quick train to Malahide to walk along the water & see a castle. Quaint, though the snow turned to rain & it was a loooong walk back form the castle to the train station. So, next day, $25 taxi (another story) to Dublin Airport & home on Aer Lingus. Again, excellent service. But: airport security for people going to the US was so annoying! After 2 regular points of security check, you had to go downstairs, and were herded into lines for men & one for women for more detailed searches. Yikes! But, an amazing trip & we cannot say enough how welcoming the people there were to us. They really were funny & civil, sweet & droll, and at the moment, seem to like Americans again. I can hardly wait to go back there! Thanks for your help in planning this. I had just got over being ill for a month when the trip started, but with so much to see & do, I didn't want to waste a second resting. Cheers!

janisj

Loving the report so far! The details are great -- and it definitely isn't too long.

One hint though -- it is a bit difficult to follow w/o paragraphs. Hard to read such long entries (#2 and 3) w/o breaks.

runnerjefff

Thanks janisj for the reminder, sorry!
Just popped in to add: *Don't be afraid to ask questions when you travel. *Don't be afraid to use public transportation. *Be respectful. We never heard anyone really swear until the last night of our trip (despite all those pubs), and she was a friendly tipsy older woman who was not swearing in anger. And maybe one American in Temple Bar.

Bronxbomber

"...We never heard anyone really swear until the last night of our trip (despite all those pubs), and she was a friendly tipsy older woman who was not swearing in anger...."

As everywhere, normally polite people sense whether swearing offends those they are with. For me, it is a creative part of the famous banter, in pubs or anywhere. And as you point out, it is never aggresive, at least in front of tourists. At one Dingle pub (Curtin's Haberdashery), a woman used "fecking" a lot. She told me kids use it, too - like "darn" instead of "damn".

At a Filipino restaurant in Ballsbridge, Dublin, I asked the Irish-Filipino owner, in his traditonal white guyabera shirt, how many Filipinos were there in the city. "Welll, I tink tirty tousand. But really, I have no fuggin' idea."

My favorite quote from last year was at another Dingle pub. Guy walks in, and immediately the patrons are on him, for having bet on a horse that finished last. "If my horse had two arseholes for eyes, I wouldna bet on your boy there." The victim's response was to pause and say to the publican: "PINT!"

runnerjefff

In Belfast, saw a cab with this ad on it: "Drink feckin' responsibly. Then call a feckin' cab."

avalon

Glad for your review of Chicago. I had it on a possible list. We too loved Oliver. Did the audience boo and clap Bill Sikes at curtain call at your performance? He was truly evil and the boos were complimenary

runnerjefff

Yes, Bill Sikes was lovingly booed. His dog was so cute! The adult cast came right out the stage door & signed autographs. I think Oliver's mom hustled him away, but no one got in her way. The stage for that show was so amazing!

Bronxbomber

"....In Belfast, saw a cab with this ad on it: "Drink feckin' responsibly. Then call a feckin' cab."......"

WHAP! Now THAT is feckin' funny!

DrToonz

I too will be traveling from London to Dublin in July. I wonder can you tell me what the trip is like/ How long it took? Did you have advance reservations for train/boat? Thank you!

cyclenana

this is the greatest site. I will be traveling with a tour group and 2 family members to the UK. I am so excited. I feel if we are pleasant and polite others will be too, so I expect friendly people!!! I am devouring all the great ideas. We are on a pretty tight schedule but have free time and I'm taking advantage of it!!! Thanks again. Hope I can come up with a good review when we get back.

runnerjefff

DrToonz: We took the train from London's Euston station, switched trains 2 hrs later, took that train 2 hours to Holyhead. Ferry was a two hr trip, then a FREE shuttle bus took us to the city centre area. Really convenient. We had advance reservations/seats for the trains, but there were snafus w/that. On the second train, people were in our seats and we had to ask them to move, the conductor would not! And again, if you have suitcases, try to sit near read door of a car. We had reservations for the ferry, no seat reservations needed. Don't eat too much before you get on the ferry in case the sea is a bit rough. Really, a pleasant scenic trip. Cheers!