beankeen

Hi, My wife and I are taking a belated honeymoon to Ireland in July. Unfortunately, I didn't check out this forum before booking our flight and rental car. We are flying in and out of Dublin (We should have incorporated Shannon into our flight plans). I have been reading the other posts and have found the feedback people get to be very helpful. I was hoping for some on my own!

My wife and I are in our early thirties. We value scenery, pubs and getting out (though in a relaxed, laidback sort of way). We would like to try and avoid the super touristy scene, but at the same time we recognize we might have to deal with this in order to see some of the more special sights. We also don't feel the need to see everything if it means that we have to always be "on the go." I guess what I am trying to say is that we are willing to miss some things (maybe see them on the next trip!) in order to be on a more relaxed pace.

Anyways, my wife says I am over-thinking things so I will shut up now and share our VERY ROUGH itinerary. Let me know what you think. THANKS!

Day 1 - Fly into Dublin
Day 2 - Dublin - Check things out
Day 3 - Pick up rental car in downtown Dublin and drive to Kilkenny for the night.
Day 4 - Kinsale - Stop by Cahir Castle on the way
Day 5 - Kinsale - Maybe day trip it to Baltimore
Day 6 - Kenmare
Day 7 - Kenmare - ROK
Day 8 - Dingle
Day 9 - Dingle - Rent bikes and do the loop. My wife is worried about getting run over by a tour bus.
Day 10 - Doolin or Ennis - Cliffs of Moher
Day 11 - Galway
Day 12 - Galway - Bike the Aran Islands - Inishmore. Maybe stay the night in Inishmore.
Day 13 - Clifden or Roundstone
Day 14 - Clifden or Roundstone - Spend the day in Connemara
Day 15- Drive from to Trim
Day 16 - Fly out from Dublin back to Seattle

Like I said it is very rough and lacking details. Any and all feedback would be great!

Thanks

P.S. - I would also like to see a cool castle or two.

MonicaRichards

I am also going to Ireland this year. Your itinerary is similar to mine but I have three weeks so am spending a week in Kenmare to explore that area (traveling with kids so we need to break up the B & Bs with a rental). Believe it or not, you need to book your places ASAP, about half the places we tried for August were already booked. A great book that is really getting me in the mood for our trip is McCarthy's Bar by Pete McCarthy. It's about a trip to Ireland he takes and he has a really dry sense of humor. It's definitely helping me to decide where I don't want to go!

Jean

I don't think tour buses do the Dingle Loop. As I recall, it's only a single-lane road with generous "aprons."

wojazz3

In regards the the question on your other thread, Baltimore is a nice little fishing village. On a fine day you can take the short 15 minute ride out to Sherkin Island and wander around a bit. You can also catch boats out to Clear Island and I think there is a Fastnet tour from there also.

Towns other than Doolin or Ennis would be Lisdoonvarna, Lehinch, Liscannor. Further north would be Ballyvaughan, Kinvara. Corofin to the east would be another option. Like I said before, Doolin will be very crowded in July. Ennis is a very nice town. People who have just driven through would probably say otherwise because they never have seen the small city center with it's narrow streets, shops and pubs. It's worth a stop.

Monica: I'm a big fan of the McCarthy's Bar book and it has some wonderful information in it but I wouldn't use it as the ultimate trip guide. He has some pretty negative responses to places that some people love. For instance, he hates Cong though some people here love it. I'm sort of in the middle on it. Again, it's a great read. August will be pretty crowded though and some of his observations may be more accurate at that time of year.

Tour buses are not supposed to do the Dingle (Slea Head Drive) loop, but they do.

Bill

MonicaRichards

Oh, I am not using that book as the ultimate guide, but I appreciate his input. Some of the things he likes I know I wouldn't (irish traveler encampment--no thanks!) but he dissed the Kerry Experience (now called Kerry- The Kingdom) so thoroughly that I had to look it up and I will be going (with my kids) so I can go on the train through the recreated village and laugh again at his description!

wendie

We just returned and did the Dingle loop (sooo beautiful!) and although we did not pass many buses the road is narrow and I was always afraid of running over a biker as we had to pass into the opposing traffic lane to pass them and the there will be so much traffic in July you may have a trail of six cars behind you!

wojazz3

I driven by the Kerry the Kindom site and never went in. Perhaps I need to reread that for the laugh. It truly is a funny book and what I love about it is that he can go from hilarity to heartfelt at the drop of a hat. He passed away a year or two ago. He was in his early fifties.

I will admit, I've long considered an "On the trail of Pete McCarthy" tour in Co. Cork.

Have you read "Round Irelnad with a Fridge" yet. Some very funny writing there also.

Bill

chatham

Bill,

I have both those books and they are great fun.

Joan

jackieb

Hi,

I just spent a little more than a week in Ireland with my husband, 2 kids and my in-laws. LOVED every minute!!!

I highly recommend Rick Steve's Ireland book. Great tips for avoiding many of the tourist traps... ie: Ring of Kerry. He spends a bit of time discussing the Ring of Kerry vs. Dingle Peninsula... he recommends touring the Dingle Peninsula instead of ROK. We did the Dingle Peninsula... not ROK. Dingle Pensinula was GREAT. I see that you're planning on doing both... I don't think you need to. Many of the local people we met suggested touring around the peninsula near Bantry instead of ROK.

Rick Steve's book has an excellent "do it yourself" guide to touring the Dingle Peninsula... it was great. I think doing that tour via bike might be tough. We ran into a few people doing it... and it didn't look fun. I'd skip ROK and tour Dingle via car.

We took the boat ride out to the Blasket Island... that also great... we did the longer tour... and saw seals, puffins and more. Loved it.

I can recommend the following places to stay:

Dingle: Heaton's Guesthouse. 2nd floor rooms much better than 1st floor. I'd ask for a 2nd floor room first... if not avail... then if on the 1st floor, ask to face the back...not the front. The rooms on the 1st floor in the front have a boring view of the parking lot... the water is across the street... but gets lost through the parking lot. (Small parking lot... but still a parking lot). The best things about Heaton's are the owners -- Cameron is amazing!!! and the BREAKFAST!!!! Try the Porridge with Drambuie.

Kenmare: The Lodge at Kenmare. Rooms are gorgeous... so is the building... great location, right across the street from the Golf Course... so it is nice and quiet. We LOVED Kenmare... much better than Killarney (too big and commercial).

Waterford (if you sneak it in)... The Waterford Castle is GREAT!!!! Go ahead and splurge... SO WORTH IT. It is on it's own small island...so you take a very quick boat ferry to the island (only about 3 minutes or so)... the castle is so pretty and there are less than 20 rooms, so you get amazing service and warmth from the staff. Dinner was excellent...as was breakfast.

If you're looking for an inexpensive place to stay near Limerick... we spent one quick night at the Quality Inn in Limerick. It is brand new... and for less than 100euros we had a HUGE family room that was very nice and clean. This is a very large new hotel with no "irish heritage" atmosphere at all. It is just a good deal. We arrived after 10pm and were out before 9am...so it was a great place to rest our heads.

Dublin: Do NOT Stay at the Parliament Hotel... TOTAL DUMP.

Good luck,

JB

historytraveler

It'll take about 4/5 hours to drive from Clifden to Trim. We did the same drive in reverse on a Sunday morning and there was no traffic,so we made good time.

If you spend day 14 in Connemara and leave early on the 15th for Trim, you'll still have time to visit the castle. Be sure and take the tour of the Keep as it's excellent.Trying to get from Clifden or Roundstone to Dublin and stopping in Trim along the way may be taking on too much.You'll need a very early departure from Connemara. All will depend on when you need to be in Dublin.

beankeen

Thanks to everyone for all of the great information. It has been extremely helpful!

I just bought the McCarthy book and am looking forward to diving into it.

Jackieb - Thank you for your trip report. You have us rethinking our day in the ROK. Did you find the drive times (page 23) listed in Rick's book to be very accurate?

On a related note. I wanted to get some opinions on spending a third night in Dingle or Galway(more likely) and shaving a night off of somewhere else. Is Kinsale worth a two night visit? What about Kenmare? Or we could skip Ennis and go straight to Galway.

I think that I might be over-thinking all of this!

Historytraveler - In hindsight we should have booked our flight home to Seattle from Shannon. Since we didn't our drive from Clifden/Roundstone to Trim is unavoidable. We thought that it might be nice to see the middle part of the country anyhow. We fly out of Dublin the next day.

Shane

historytraveler

Not really that much scenery between Roundstone/Clifden and Trim after you leave Connemara. However there are two excellent sights enroute. Clonmacnois (just south of Athlone) and Trim Castle.

Go to aaroadwatch.ie to get milage and travel times. Please note that you'll need to add some time to those indicated as they do not allow for road construction, heavy traffic, comfort stops etc.

jackieb

Hi,

We did not drive the ROK... just the Dingle peninsula... and the kilometer by kilometer guide for the Dingle Peninsula in Rick Steves book was VERY accurate and very helpful.

I'd also recommend visiting the Blasket Islands on the Dingle Peninsula... we really enjoyed it.

As for an extra night in Dingle... I'd say... probably not. I think you can do all you need to do with 2 night. But that is just my opinion. The town of Dingle is very small.

An extra night in Kenmare.... also...probably not needed.

Have you considered something in between Dublin and Kenmare??? Like visiting Cashel... or Waterford... Lismore or Cobh or Cork??? Or something in the Shannon area??? Maybe add a night to one of those areas.

Good luck,

JB

chip

I think you have a good balanced itinerary...

If you do want to change...definately do not take time from Kenmare...I would skip extra night in Galway...spend the night on Aran Islands (no big busses to run you over). The only place I regreted only spending one night was in Trim because there are so many interesting sights in the area- we loved Newgrange/Knowth and Hill of Tara. Only got to walk around outside of Trim Castle because we got there too late for last tour, wanted to see Monastaboice, but again, ran out of time.

Taking a day from Galway and spending in Kenmare would also be an option and spend the day exploring the Gap of Dunloe...which would make a good bike/hike (no traffic worries-we hired jaunting cart which still envolved some walking). If you include the boat ride from Lord Brandon's Cottage to Ross Castle, this is a full day.

Having done all 3...Dingle and Beara/Healy Pass were more enjoyable. ROK is pretty, just very long and for the time Dingle/Bear offer more. Going from Kenmare to Dingle you will be driving my favorite part of ROK anyway (past moll's gap, ladies view, thru Killarney National Park-could also tour Ross Castle and/or Muckross House) which is a very scenic drive. Would drive Dingle vs bike just because there is so much to see. We also followed Rick Steves' route which was great. There are plenty of pull outs so you can get out and explore.

We have stayed in both Doolin and Ennis...personally prefer Doolin...get to the pubs early, be sure to scope out where musicians sit and get a table nearby, enjoy some pub grub till music starts.

From Dublin to Kilkenny, Glendalough makes a great stop. We also loved Jerpoint Abbey just outside of Kilkenny.

From Kilkenny to Kinsale may find Rock of Cashel a good stop. In Kinsale Charles Fort was interesting and had great views of the bay.

wojazz3

I'm not such a big fan of the Rick Steve's book. Yes, the RoK is a much longer route than Dingle, but in my opinion, is quite beautiful. For those people who just want to drive it and not get out of the car, Yes, do just the Dingle Peninsula. If you want some truly spectacular scenery, drive through the middle of the peninsula over Ballaghbeama Pass from Molls Gap towards Killorglin. Or how about the Beara Peninsula or Mizen, which Rick leaves out. Last time I saw his book, there was no mention of the NW, as if Donegal doesn't even exist. Maybe his new book has more, the one I had from a few years back was lacking.

The Dingle tour is pretty good though the mileages didn't match my odometer. The beehive huts he suggests are rumored to be fake, built by the local farmers.

Better books would be the DK guide, The Michele Erdvig Guide available on irelandyes.com and the Ireland Guide published by Bord Failte.

Bill

beankeen

I have one more idea/question that I would like to get some opinions on. What if on Day 10 we went straight from Dingle to Galway (cutting out our night in Ennis). We would like to stop along the way and see the Cliffs of Moher, but it is not a priority. I realize that this would be a monster drive, but the upside is that we would have an extra day and night to spend on Inishmore. Then go from Inishmore to Roundstone. I changed the intinerary below to reflect this. Spending a day and night on Inishmore excites us a bit more than Ennis.

Day 6 - Kenmare
Day 7 - Kenmare
Day 8 - Dingle
Day 9 - Dingle - Rent bikes and do the loop. My wife is worried about getting run over by a tour bus.
Day 10 - Galway - Cliffs of Moher
Day 11 - Galway
Day 12 - Inishmore - Take the Rossaveal Ferry, Bike the Island and stay the night.
Day 13 - Roundstone
Day 14 - Roundstone - Spend the day in Connemara
Day 15- Drive from to Trim
Day 16 - Fly out from Dublin back to Seattle


Just an idea we are playing with. Thanks!

wojazz3

That would work fine. Don't make a lot of stops between Roundstone and Trim or you won't make it to the castle before they close. I think that you have a nice itinerary.

Bill

beankeen

I'm back!

Hey I am wondering if Clonakilty might be a better option than Kinsale?