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Intinerary for Dordogne - Need Your Expertise!!

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Intinerary for Dordogne - Need Your Expertise!!

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Old Nov 24th, 2006, 08:54 PM
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IMHO, Padirac/Rocamodour would consume a full day's trip. After then you can spend the rest of the evening, and dinner, in Sarlat. By then, the market would have folded up.

It's about under 2-hours to drive from Sarlat to Padirac/Rocamodour area. The exceptional Padirac tour, which you'll have to take since you made that long distance drive, is about 1.5 hours and leisurely wandering around the town of Rocamodour and doing the ecclesiastical tour, imho, requires at most half a day.
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Old Nov 24th, 2006, 09:02 PM
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Oh, and btw, Hautefort castle was completely underwhelming, especially considering that it was, iirc, at least a 2.5 hour drive from our base in the Roque Gageac area.
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Old Nov 24th, 2006, 09:43 PM
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Sorry - I don't agree with much of what bill-boy has expressed. We loved Hautfort (rated 2 stars in Michelin) - nice sculptured gardens in addition to the chateau.

Padirac is indeed a 1 1/2 hr visit (1 hr tour + 1/2 hr walking down & up the "hole&quot. But if Padirac/Rocamadour is an entire day's event, then that means Rocamadour is 5-6 hours!!!!???? Unless you're into a big pilgrimage experience and want to kneel at every step going up to the churches, I can't imagine how Rocamadour would hold most visitor's intrest for that long. We've visited both sites twice within the last 9 years. We travel "slow", and last year we completed Rocamadour & Padirac by 1:00.

Also, we must drive faster than bill-boy does - we made it to Rocamadour in a little under 1 hr from our Gite near Domme (15 mins from Sarlat).

Stu Dudley
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Old Nov 24th, 2006, 09:51 PM
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Also, it took us slightly under 1 1/2 hrs to drive from Domme/Roque Gageac to Hautefort.

Stu Dudley
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Old Nov 24th, 2006, 10:07 PM
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Stu definitely must drive a lot faster than me. While I stand corrected that it must take closer to 1.5 hours to drive from Rocamodour to Gageac area, it's hard to imagine that it will take an hour with all the small winding roads that one will have to take and at reasonably faster speed than the limits allow. I can drive crazy if I want to, but I don't - I prefer to that in the local BMW slalom driving tracks.

Hautfort may be 2-star with Michelin, but that is something that I glad I never have to abide by to gain personal enjoyment. It wasn't a complete waste of time, but it wasn't the best of times, either.
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Old Nov 24th, 2006, 11:54 PM
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A few more comments, just to confuse you, from a resident.

Regarding markets - if you are in Sarlat Saturday morning and Wednesday morning, you will be surrounded by markets. I wouldnt bother to go to Le Bugue just for the market, when there are so many other things to see. I do agree that Sarlat itslef is nicer when the market people have gone home and you can really see the lovely buildings.

I wouldnt spend a long time at Rocamadour - the view is the most impressive thing about the whole town. Park at the top, wander down to see the church perhaps, and then back up. But it's really touristy.

We like Hautefort a lot - if you have a clear day when you're there, the view all around is amazing. But here, and in most other chateaux, you should realise that you will have to take a tour, which will probably be in French - they usually have pamphlets in English. So, when you think that you will 'do' a certain site, you have to take into account that you may not be able to do it on your own schedule. You'll have to wait for the tour, and then go through the chateau with the guide.

Having said that we like Figeac, I dont know that it's a good use of limited time to go there on your first visit. I would prefer Carennac - amazing cloisters, lovely village, Autoire, and Loubressac. Dont know that you could make it to Martel.

We like the canoe trip as well. The canoe company will come and pick you up and bring you back to your car.

There are two laundromats in Sarlat, one on Place de la Bouquerie, at the top of rue Fenelon, the other on the road out to the north, on the LEFT,not the right side. Just opposite Bistro de L'Octroi, where you could have a great lunch while awaiting your laundry.

Also, I'm not sure when you will be here. That will also affect timing, as traffic is much heavier in July and August, which makes getting around slower.

Finally, can I just say to you and to others who want to see everything on the first trip - slow down and allow yourself the time to wander a bit. Some of the nicest experiences one often has on a trip are the unexpected ones - you often have more fun getting lost than on your carefully planned excursions. This is an incredibly beautiful area, and you should allow yourself time to just enjoy it.

We've lived here 12 1/2 years - came on holiday and decided we just had to find a way to live here. We did, and have never regretted it for a minute - we drove down to Figeac last week for lunch with the top down on our little MX5 (Mazda) and were still amazed at the beauty of this area. And we still havent seen everything!


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Old Nov 25th, 2006, 02:09 AM
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Just to throw a few more thoughts your way....unlike Stu, I found Font De Gaume incredibly moving. While Lascaux is certainly a great re-creation, the other is the real thing-- and knowing that the paintings I was looking at had been painted some thousands of years ago, moved me in a way that no meticulous reproduction could. Font de Gaume was also a small group tour, and I found it a much more intimate experience.

Of course, I can't compare to all the others since I haven't seen them, but I found Font de Gaume to be one of our highlights.

We were there in July 2004, and I found that we had to slow down and not try to rush from place to place. We spent 4 days there, and I ended up eliminating some of my planned sights. Trips take longer than you expect, given the winding, hilly roads, and the one day that was packed with seeing everything was way too exhausting by the end.
This is just a caution in not trying to see everything all at once.
Paule
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Old Nov 25th, 2006, 04:22 AM
  #28  
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Hi E,

>Can we do Paris in five days?

Of course not, but 5 days is fine for a first visit.

>Would it be better to lose the sixth day in Paris and add it the Dordogne?

I think that I would.

>We are only going to do three days in Loire.<

You could save the Loire for another visit and add the time to the Dordogne and Paris.

May I suggest that you base your plans on the fact that you can't see it all?

Choose the most important items and plan your visit around that.

Have a nice trip.



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Old Nov 25th, 2006, 06:39 AM
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I would not eliminate Font de Gaume. As progol says, it is a very moving experience. The cave is intimate and the groups are small by necessity. The paintings are inches from where you stand.

I planned our whole trip to the Dordogne last year to see Font de Gaume before it becomes closed to the public the way Lascaux was, a step which is apparently contemplated.
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Old Nov 25th, 2006, 08:55 AM
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This is how I would do it

Friday:
If you leave Avignon at 7:30, you should get to Carassonne at 9:45. Take the tour (don't know if you can reserve) & visit till 12 or 12:30. Then head to Peche Merle - you should get there by 3:00 (reserve for the first tour after 3). Then check your watch. It's 1 1/4 hrs to Sarlat, so if you have time to fit in St Cirq Lapopie, then do so.

Sat:
market in Sarlat.

I would not visit Rocamadour or Padirac mid-day on a week-end.....WAY to crowded.
Jardins d'Eyrignac (if you leave Sarlat by 10:30)
Montignac (I think you sill have to go thereto pick up tiks to Lascaux)
Lascaux II
St Amand de Coly


Sunday
Domme (get there early)
Roque Gageac
canoe trip will take more time than the boat trip
Beynac
Castelnaud
Ch Milandes

Monday
I agree with Carlux - perhaps skip the Le Bugue market (visit the one in Perigueux on Wed instead)
Gouffre de Proumeyssac
Drive up the Vezere to:
Roque St Christophe
Grand Roc (If you have time)
Leon
Hautefort

Tues
Rocamadour (early)
Padirac
St Cere
Autoire
Loubressac
Carennac
Martel

Wed
Market in Perigueux & town
Anything you missed on previous days or something from my long list of "others"

Thurs
Collonges la Rouge
Turenne
on to the Loire

Stu Dudley



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Old Nov 25th, 2006, 10:47 AM
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eholden

Regarding St Cirq Lapopie.
I just read your thread on Provence. You'll be seeing many cute perched villages in Provence, so I would suggest that you skip St Cirq. It's not that different or unique from Provence villages. Peche Merle IS unique, so DON"T miss it. If you leave Provence at 7:30, get to Carcassonne at 9:45, leave at 12:30, get to Peche Merle for a 3:30 tour, finish at 4:30 - you'll probably get to Sarlat around 6-6:30 or so - plenty of time to check in, relax, and have dinner in town.

I assume that you have my Dordogne Itinerary.

Stu Dudley
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Old Nov 25th, 2006, 11:19 AM
  #32  
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Stu - you are a gift from God. Yes, that is exactly what we are going to do. That will be the ONLY day of the "Dordogne Leg" that we will stick to a schedule. The rest of the days we will just take it easy, have an itinerary and then do with it what we want on that day. My husband doesn't want to skip the Peche Merle so he completely agrees. And Tuesday was redone perfectly.

Thank you all for your comments. You all have helped so much. The reformatting fits perfectly and we will leave Wednesday afternoon open after Periguex for whatever we feel we might have missed. But I am sure we will be back so we can just use that excuse to take it easy.

Thank you all for taking the time to help us. It was very kind of you. Yes Stu, we have your itinerary. It's worth its weight in gold

Again, thanks for all your time. I hope some day we can repay the favor.

emh
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Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 03:46 PM
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I'm planning a trip to the Dordogne in June '08 (Switzerland, July '07). Thank you all for the meaningful advice, as it will help me, as well! I have saved this entire thread to desktop!

Susan
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Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 03:51 PM
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Great and helpful thread. Thanks! We will be in the Dordogne in July. Don't have time to read the whole thing now, but will get to it in the next day or so.

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Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 11:37 AM
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We are fortunate to have these insights, aren't we!

Our trips are going to be so much more meaningful because of all the help we have received.

Hope you both have a safe and memoriable trip.

emh
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Old Jan 9th, 2007, 05:19 PM
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I have just read over these posts with great interest since my husband and I have planned a visit to the Dordogne region in July of 2007--thanks for all the great suggestions! We plan to fly into Bordeaux and drive to Les Eyzies and spend 3 nights at Hotel Cro-Magnon. I was just about to book the hotel when I realized that the rooms are not air conditioned--is this a problem at that time of the year? We've already booked Fonte de Gaume and Comberelles for one day and hope to do a kyaking trip on another. On our third day we plan to just explore! We are then driving back to Bordeaux to return our car and begin phase 2 of our trip (in Germany)but I'm wondering if there's another major city where we could return the car and catch a train--can you tell that I'm trying to stay in France as long as possible? Thank you in advance for any insight you can give!
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Old Jan 9th, 2007, 05:29 PM
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They had a very hot summer this year in the Dordogne. I think A/C would be fairly important in July.
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Old Jan 10th, 2007, 06:22 AM
  #38  
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Hi e,

>I'm wondering if there's another major city where we could return the car and catch a train..<

Libourne is not a major city, but it is much easier to drop your car there and take the train than it is to go into Bordeaux.

Train schedules should be similar to those from Bordeaux.

See www.voyages-sncf.com

See www.mappy.com for location of Libourne.

Enjoy your visit.

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Old Jan 10th, 2007, 07:31 AM
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How do you book tours in advance? Call? Fax? Would it be bad form to fax a request in English?
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Old Jan 10th, 2007, 02:00 PM
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I am starting to try to book cave reservations, too for summer, 2007- can you share how you did this? I had no response to my fax for Font de Gaume...I at one time looked at Albi or Cahors for returning the rental car. Thank you!
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