In Search of Montalbano - the ups and downs of 10 days in Eastern Sicily
Oct 2nd, 2016, 03:32 AM
#45
Day 1 - how luggage is lost and found and an unexpected encounter with chocolate.
I will not bore you with an account of our journey to Bristol the evening before we were due to depart at the unfashionably early hour of 5.50 am; we packed, we bade our [adult] kids and dogs a fond farewell, left them a long list of jobs to do [the kids not the dogs], and drove away. We had booked a room at one of the hotels near the airport that offer to park your car and drive you to the airport for the flight [and pick you up and bring you back again at the end of the trip, of course]. We have previously used a couple of places that cater for the bottom of that market, but found them noisy and a bit tawdry; as this was a birthday trip we went upmarket and booked a night here:
http://www.winfordmanor.co.uk
They have built a new wing with very new rooms catering for the airport market though the lift was very small for people trying to get luggage up to their room, and it was a bit of a trek to get up there. But the room was light and spacious, and the very modern bathroom was excellent. They also have a pretty good restaurant where we had a very nice evening meal, a bar serving lighter meals, and they even serve breakfast [of a sort] from 3.30 am, with proper breakfasts from 6am. It was breakfast which almost caused our undoing; having dragged ourselves out of bed just before 4am, we wanted to grab some toast and fruit juice, and somehow the rucksack carrying all our travel docs [apart from the passports which live in my handbag for the duration of any trip] got left behind, and it wasn’t until we were halfway to the airport in the hotel shuttle bus that DH realised our error. Of course we couldn’t ask them to go back as there were other people on the bus, so once we got to the airport, I had the job of dragging our bags [hurray for wheeled luggage] to the Easyjet bag drop while DH went back to the hotel to retrieve the rucksack. I hung around a bit by the entrance, decided to pack my fleece rather than carry it [a good decision as it turned out] which gave me something to do for a few minutes, and then tried to find out if I could check the bags in without DH being present or indeed the physical presence of our pre-printed boarding passes.
Fortunately I didn’t have to find out as just then the rucksack put in an appearance, accompanied by a panting DH, so we breathed a sigh of relief, checked in the bags and went upstairs to the security area, which was discovered has been greatly improved and expanded so despite the unexpected number of people flying at 6am, it all went very quickly. Once through security, and the seemingly endless labyrinths of duty free in which we have no interest, we emerged into the departure lounge which even at that time of the morning was looking quite busy, if not to say crowded. When could all of these people be going? How inconsiderate of them to be flying at the same time as us! Cleary they need to expand that area like they have security.
However despite it taking over 15 minutes to buy a paper and a bottle of water, we still made it to the departure gate in time [it was Gate 2 which was convenient] and then waited on the bus for what seemed like ages while we waited for other people doing the same thing. But finally we were boarding and making a timely departure and after an uneventful flight [apart from lovely views over the alps and the western coast of Italy] by 10 am we were coming into land at Catania. Arrival was unremarkable too, and by the time we’d made it to baggage reclaim, the bags were beginning to arrive; the pink of that new bag was pretty hard to miss!
Our car hire collection had been worrying me a bit, so before we left I had put the phone no for Firefly into my phone [and tested it!] so immediately we were out of the airport building I gave them a ring to clarify where we were to be picked up to be taken to their depot. “Do you see the Hertz car hire area, Signora? Walk over to it and wait by the bridge, we will be there subito” And they were! [and I did it all in italian but I won’t bore you with that].
There were quite a few other people waiting too, and somehow though we were first there we were last on, but that worked to our advantage as when we got to the depot just a very few minutes later, I was first off and into the office to do the paperwork, while DH sorted out the luggage [and made sure he had the rucksack!] The hire process was completely straightforward, with no hard sell of CWD etc., once we said we weren’t interested [as we’d taken out a separate insurance at home, you definitely don’t want not to have it covered somehow], we were given the keys to our car, which turned out to be a somewhat underpowered Fiat Punto, and we were on our own.
We took quite a long time to check the car over to make sure that there were no more than the 2 small scratches mentioned on the paperwork, and then to work out how to get the luggage into the boot, which amazingly could take both cases and more besides, though the parcel shelf didn’t quite lie flat, which might be a clue to someone that there was luggage in it, and finally, with DH at the wheel, maps in hand and satnav turned on, we were off.
The satnav indicated that we should head right out of the depot, and then right again, and right again, which rather than sending us round in a circle led us straight onto the autostrada heading south to Siracusa, our first stop, so the first part of the journey was about as stress free as it could be, just as long as you ignored the other drivers, who clearly all thought that they were driving Ferraris in a grand prix. Still, at least we hadn’t had to negotiate the exit to the airport, which had looked “interesting” to say the least. How glad we were that we hadn’t decided to drive into Catania.
Gradually the traffic eased off a bit, and though the scenery wasn’t spectacular, we weren’t too interested in it anyway as we were too busy making sure that we were going in the right direction. Not that there was anywhere else much to go - the autostrada south of Catania goes through a succession of tunnels so really you just have to keep driving, which we did until we arrived at the outskirts of Siracusa when we came to a full stop. No, not because there was anything wrong with the car, but because there was a traffic jam. A long one. So we had plenty of time to admire the nearby cemetery, watch people buying flowers to put on the graves of their young ones from the flower stalls, and generally take in the scenery.
Finally the traffic started to move again, and we were plunged into the madness that is Friday lunchtime in downtown Siracusa. As my Italian teacher might say “oh, Dio”. Somehow we got through it without incident, though there were some points when it seemed inevitable that either we would hit something or they would hit us, but even when we emerged from all that madness unscathed, the test of driver and satnav wasn’t over as we were plunged into the tiny streets of Ortigia as we tried to find our way to the hotel. DH sounded distinctly sceptical when I said that all he had to do was to follow the signs for the papyrus museum but that turned out to be exactly right, and suddenly, there we were. We had been promised that the hotel would park the car, so I popped into reception to announce or arrival, and as if by magic, a porter [who we learnt was called Paolo] arrived, took our luggage and then our car keys, and while we were checking in, parked it, goodness knows where, but by then we really didn’t care very much.
He then accompanied us up to our room, refused a tip, and there we were. What a lovely room. Though the curtains had been closed to keep out the heat of the sun, we could see that it was large with a wide comfy bed, a wardrobe with a safe, and a reasonably sized bathroom. And when we opened the curtains - a view of the sea and a small balcony. Perfect. We had arrived.
This is where we stayed:
http://www.livingstonhotel.it/en/
Although a little more expensive than where we usually stay [we’re getting soft in our old age wanting lifts and such like] it turned out to be the perfect choice for us. Quiet, comfortable, friendly, clean - all the things you want in a hotel. And no need to worry about the car - we didn’t touch it again until we left, though it did seem mysteriously to move location, which provided us with some amusement in guessing where it might turn up the next! Breakfasts were good, though not the best [the cappuccino that you could order specially was definitely better than the ordinary coffee] but overall the hotel just worked, in the way a hotel should. Top marks and I would very happily stay there again.
After a few minutes freshening up we were anxious to get out to explore, and given we’d started so early in the morning, quite keen to find some lunch as well. After a bit of desultory wandering, we came across this place, in a little square opposite the bathing platform:
http://www.ristoranteilblu.it/#_=_
The menu looked interesting, and even better, there were tables in the shade so we sat down and were immediately approached by the chef/owner who started to explain the menu to us. Of course, having just arrived we weren’t really able to take everything in, so we opted for what we thought were tasty but safe options - tuna for DH and spaghetti with swordfish for me, plus beer, wine and a large bottle of water. Perhaps we should have paid more attention, as DH’s tuna came with a large serving of what was described to us as fichi d’India and turned out to be prickly pear and my spaghetti included not only pieces of swordfish but also large capers, radicchio, and a sprinkling of unsweetened cocoa. Tasty it certainly was, but I wasn’t convinced that it’s a winning combination. Nor did DH take to the prickly pear that much - I tried it and I agreed that it was a nice taste but the large seeds made eating it quite difficult. Still there was a pleasant atmosphere, a nice breeze, and cool drinks. Our first espressos accompanied by digestives on the house finished the meal and after paying the very reasonable bill of €57, we set off to explore the rest of Ortigia.
I must confess that I had been a tad skeptical that Ortigia could be as lovely as we had been told by people here, but we were soon won over. Surrounded on 3 sides by water [4 if you count the harbour] it’s in a lovely position, with sun or shade available at all times of the say, depending on your mood. Tiny streets to explore, beautiful squares to sit in and enjoy watching la passegiata, historical buildings like the Duomo to visit, even a bathing platform if you’re feeling hot [and brave!] - there is little it doesn’t have. We soon found ourselves in the Piazza del Duomo, and after testing our first granita [a very light sorbet, this time in passion fruit flavour] we decided to do our first bit of real sightseeing and explore the Duomo itself. We were a little surprised to find out that you have to pay to go in, but for only €2 each, we were prepared to splash out. As we almost did, as were it not for DH’s eagle eye, which spotted that the girl on the kiosk was only going to give him change for a €10 euro note, rather than the €20 he handed her, it would have been a very expensive visit. As it was, the “old-fashioned look” he gave her produced the correct change, but I wonder how many others had fallen for that old trick. I have to say that that was the only time when anyone ever tried to cheat us, and everywhere else we received only honesty and courtesy, but it certainly put us on our guard for the next few days.
In truth the interior of the Duomo does not match the magnificence of its exterior; though it is undoubtedly ancient in places but seemed to be a mishmash of styles without much atmosphere. So we were very glad that it didn’t cost more than €2 each!
On our wanderings we had come across the Teatro dei Pupi about which we had read, [and indeed were using the map that they helpfully provide on their publicity brochure which we had picked up in our hotel] but it was closed, with no indication of when the ticket office might be open. So when we found the Tourist office we asked when we might be able to buy tickets; the somewhat vague answer that they might open around 5pm didn’t inspire confidence. But Ortigia isn’t that big so on the way back to the hotel we took a detour and fortunately it was open for business. As we were quite tired we weren’t sure that we’d make it through to 9.30 pm for the performance that night so we bought tickets for the next night and paid for them then as apparently that meant that we’d only have to get there 5 minutes in advance. My notes tell me that they were only €8.50 each which turned out to be a real bargain, but more of that later.
By now we were indeed flagging so we dragged ourselves away from all the lovely cafes, bars and interesting shops, [Ortigia is a great place for souvenir shopping!] and went back to the hotel for a nap, and our first use of the shower, which is often an interesting experience. This one was fully equipped with buttons for massage jets etc. but in fact all I wanted was a normal shower at which it was ok, not brilliant. But it was perfectly adequate with lots of hot water whatever time of day you wanted it.
Somewhat to our surprise we didn’t fall asleep so at about 8 pm we got up, dressed and went out to try one of the many restaurants we’d seen on our wanderings; after about half an hour of looking at menus and locations we fixed on this place which fortunately still had a table:
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...se_Sicily.html
The website is unavailable so I’ve linked to the TA review page and everything they say is true! We really did have a fantastic meal and they were turning people away shortly after we arrived. We were sat outside effectively on the road [they have a small area cordoned off by plant pots in typical italian fashion] but that didn’t detract as you felt that you were part of the street scene and there wasn’t too much traffic at that time of night. it was difficult to decide what to eat, but in the end DH had ravioli of porcini and prosciutto, followed by calamari e gamberi [prawns] fritti, and I had carpaccio di buffalo [mozarella] gamberi, e melon with tagliatini con aragosta [lobster] to follow. It was all excellent but probably DH’s ravioli was the best. As usual we drank a litre of sparkling water plus wine recommended by the waiter - in this case a local white [no note of the name unfortunately] which was about €18 for the bottle which of course we finished. We were too full for pud, so we opted for coffee and had 2 espressos each, which they comped us for some reason, so the whole lot came to €75.
And after a very long day, we fell into bed and didn’t wake up until the morning; a perfect first day in Sicily.
I will not bore you with an account of our journey to Bristol the evening before we were due to depart at the unfashionably early hour of 5.50 am; we packed, we bade our [adult] kids and dogs a fond farewell, left them a long list of jobs to do [the kids not the dogs], and drove away. We had booked a room at one of the hotels near the airport that offer to park your car and drive you to the airport for the flight [and pick you up and bring you back again at the end of the trip, of course]. We have previously used a couple of places that cater for the bottom of that market, but found them noisy and a bit tawdry; as this was a birthday trip we went upmarket and booked a night here:
http://www.winfordmanor.co.uk
They have built a new wing with very new rooms catering for the airport market though the lift was very small for people trying to get luggage up to their room, and it was a bit of a trek to get up there. But the room was light and spacious, and the very modern bathroom was excellent. They also have a pretty good restaurant where we had a very nice evening meal, a bar serving lighter meals, and they even serve breakfast [of a sort] from 3.30 am, with proper breakfasts from 6am. It was breakfast which almost caused our undoing; having dragged ourselves out of bed just before 4am, we wanted to grab some toast and fruit juice, and somehow the rucksack carrying all our travel docs [apart from the passports which live in my handbag for the duration of any trip] got left behind, and it wasn’t until we were halfway to the airport in the hotel shuttle bus that DH realised our error. Of course we couldn’t ask them to go back as there were other people on the bus, so once we got to the airport, I had the job of dragging our bags [hurray for wheeled luggage] to the Easyjet bag drop while DH went back to the hotel to retrieve the rucksack. I hung around a bit by the entrance, decided to pack my fleece rather than carry it [a good decision as it turned out] which gave me something to do for a few minutes, and then tried to find out if I could check the bags in without DH being present or indeed the physical presence of our pre-printed boarding passes.
Fortunately I didn’t have to find out as just then the rucksack put in an appearance, accompanied by a panting DH, so we breathed a sigh of relief, checked in the bags and went upstairs to the security area, which was discovered has been greatly improved and expanded so despite the unexpected number of people flying at 6am, it all went very quickly. Once through security, and the seemingly endless labyrinths of duty free in which we have no interest, we emerged into the departure lounge which even at that time of the morning was looking quite busy, if not to say crowded. When could all of these people be going? How inconsiderate of them to be flying at the same time as us! Cleary they need to expand that area like they have security.
However despite it taking over 15 minutes to buy a paper and a bottle of water, we still made it to the departure gate in time [it was Gate 2 which was convenient] and then waited on the bus for what seemed like ages while we waited for other people doing the same thing. But finally we were boarding and making a timely departure and after an uneventful flight [apart from lovely views over the alps and the western coast of Italy] by 10 am we were coming into land at Catania. Arrival was unremarkable too, and by the time we’d made it to baggage reclaim, the bags were beginning to arrive; the pink of that new bag was pretty hard to miss!
Our car hire collection had been worrying me a bit, so before we left I had put the phone no for Firefly into my phone [and tested it!] so immediately we were out of the airport building I gave them a ring to clarify where we were to be picked up to be taken to their depot. “Do you see the Hertz car hire area, Signora? Walk over to it and wait by the bridge, we will be there subito” And they were! [and I did it all in italian but I won’t bore you with that].
There were quite a few other people waiting too, and somehow though we were first there we were last on, but that worked to our advantage as when we got to the depot just a very few minutes later, I was first off and into the office to do the paperwork, while DH sorted out the luggage [and made sure he had the rucksack!] The hire process was completely straightforward, with no hard sell of CWD etc., once we said we weren’t interested [as we’d taken out a separate insurance at home, you definitely don’t want not to have it covered somehow], we were given the keys to our car, which turned out to be a somewhat underpowered Fiat Punto, and we were on our own.
We took quite a long time to check the car over to make sure that there were no more than the 2 small scratches mentioned on the paperwork, and then to work out how to get the luggage into the boot, which amazingly could take both cases and more besides, though the parcel shelf didn’t quite lie flat, which might be a clue to someone that there was luggage in it, and finally, with DH at the wheel, maps in hand and satnav turned on, we were off.
The satnav indicated that we should head right out of the depot, and then right again, and right again, which rather than sending us round in a circle led us straight onto the autostrada heading south to Siracusa, our first stop, so the first part of the journey was about as stress free as it could be, just as long as you ignored the other drivers, who clearly all thought that they were driving Ferraris in a grand prix. Still, at least we hadn’t had to negotiate the exit to the airport, which had looked “interesting” to say the least. How glad we were that we hadn’t decided to drive into Catania.
Gradually the traffic eased off a bit, and though the scenery wasn’t spectacular, we weren’t too interested in it anyway as we were too busy making sure that we were going in the right direction. Not that there was anywhere else much to go - the autostrada south of Catania goes through a succession of tunnels so really you just have to keep driving, which we did until we arrived at the outskirts of Siracusa when we came to a full stop. No, not because there was anything wrong with the car, but because there was a traffic jam. A long one. So we had plenty of time to admire the nearby cemetery, watch people buying flowers to put on the graves of their young ones from the flower stalls, and generally take in the scenery.
Finally the traffic started to move again, and we were plunged into the madness that is Friday lunchtime in downtown Siracusa. As my Italian teacher might say “oh, Dio”. Somehow we got through it without incident, though there were some points when it seemed inevitable that either we would hit something or they would hit us, but even when we emerged from all that madness unscathed, the test of driver and satnav wasn’t over as we were plunged into the tiny streets of Ortigia as we tried to find our way to the hotel. DH sounded distinctly sceptical when I said that all he had to do was to follow the signs for the papyrus museum but that turned out to be exactly right, and suddenly, there we were. We had been promised that the hotel would park the car, so I popped into reception to announce or arrival, and as if by magic, a porter [who we learnt was called Paolo] arrived, took our luggage and then our car keys, and while we were checking in, parked it, goodness knows where, but by then we really didn’t care very much.
He then accompanied us up to our room, refused a tip, and there we were. What a lovely room. Though the curtains had been closed to keep out the heat of the sun, we could see that it was large with a wide comfy bed, a wardrobe with a safe, and a reasonably sized bathroom. And when we opened the curtains - a view of the sea and a small balcony. Perfect. We had arrived.
This is where we stayed:
http://www.livingstonhotel.it/en/
Although a little more expensive than where we usually stay [we’re getting soft in our old age wanting lifts and such like] it turned out to be the perfect choice for us. Quiet, comfortable, friendly, clean - all the things you want in a hotel. And no need to worry about the car - we didn’t touch it again until we left, though it did seem mysteriously to move location, which provided us with some amusement in guessing where it might turn up the next! Breakfasts were good, though not the best [the cappuccino that you could order specially was definitely better than the ordinary coffee] but overall the hotel just worked, in the way a hotel should. Top marks and I would very happily stay there again.
After a few minutes freshening up we were anxious to get out to explore, and given we’d started so early in the morning, quite keen to find some lunch as well. After a bit of desultory wandering, we came across this place, in a little square opposite the bathing platform:
http://www.ristoranteilblu.it/#_=_
The menu looked interesting, and even better, there were tables in the shade so we sat down and were immediately approached by the chef/owner who started to explain the menu to us. Of course, having just arrived we weren’t really able to take everything in, so we opted for what we thought were tasty but safe options - tuna for DH and spaghetti with swordfish for me, plus beer, wine and a large bottle of water. Perhaps we should have paid more attention, as DH’s tuna came with a large serving of what was described to us as fichi d’India and turned out to be prickly pear and my spaghetti included not only pieces of swordfish but also large capers, radicchio, and a sprinkling of unsweetened cocoa. Tasty it certainly was, but I wasn’t convinced that it’s a winning combination. Nor did DH take to the prickly pear that much - I tried it and I agreed that it was a nice taste but the large seeds made eating it quite difficult. Still there was a pleasant atmosphere, a nice breeze, and cool drinks. Our first espressos accompanied by digestives on the house finished the meal and after paying the very reasonable bill of €57, we set off to explore the rest of Ortigia.
I must confess that I had been a tad skeptical that Ortigia could be as lovely as we had been told by people here, but we were soon won over. Surrounded on 3 sides by water [4 if you count the harbour] it’s in a lovely position, with sun or shade available at all times of the say, depending on your mood. Tiny streets to explore, beautiful squares to sit in and enjoy watching la passegiata, historical buildings like the Duomo to visit, even a bathing platform if you’re feeling hot [and brave!] - there is little it doesn’t have. We soon found ourselves in the Piazza del Duomo, and after testing our first granita [a very light sorbet, this time in passion fruit flavour] we decided to do our first bit of real sightseeing and explore the Duomo itself. We were a little surprised to find out that you have to pay to go in, but for only €2 each, we were prepared to splash out. As we almost did, as were it not for DH’s eagle eye, which spotted that the girl on the kiosk was only going to give him change for a €10 euro note, rather than the €20 he handed her, it would have been a very expensive visit. As it was, the “old-fashioned look” he gave her produced the correct change, but I wonder how many others had fallen for that old trick. I have to say that that was the only time when anyone ever tried to cheat us, and everywhere else we received only honesty and courtesy, but it certainly put us on our guard for the next few days.
In truth the interior of the Duomo does not match the magnificence of its exterior; though it is undoubtedly ancient in places but seemed to be a mishmash of styles without much atmosphere. So we were very glad that it didn’t cost more than €2 each!
On our wanderings we had come across the Teatro dei Pupi about which we had read, [and indeed were using the map that they helpfully provide on their publicity brochure which we had picked up in our hotel] but it was closed, with no indication of when the ticket office might be open. So when we found the Tourist office we asked when we might be able to buy tickets; the somewhat vague answer that they might open around 5pm didn’t inspire confidence. But Ortigia isn’t that big so on the way back to the hotel we took a detour and fortunately it was open for business. As we were quite tired we weren’t sure that we’d make it through to 9.30 pm for the performance that night so we bought tickets for the next night and paid for them then as apparently that meant that we’d only have to get there 5 minutes in advance. My notes tell me that they were only €8.50 each which turned out to be a real bargain, but more of that later.
By now we were indeed flagging so we dragged ourselves away from all the lovely cafes, bars and interesting shops, [Ortigia is a great place for souvenir shopping!] and went back to the hotel for a nap, and our first use of the shower, which is often an interesting experience. This one was fully equipped with buttons for massage jets etc. but in fact all I wanted was a normal shower at which it was ok, not brilliant. But it was perfectly adequate with lots of hot water whatever time of day you wanted it.
Somewhat to our surprise we didn’t fall asleep so at about 8 pm we got up, dressed and went out to try one of the many restaurants we’d seen on our wanderings; after about half an hour of looking at menus and locations we fixed on this place which fortunately still had a table:
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...se_Sicily.html
The website is unavailable so I’ve linked to the TA review page and everything they say is true! We really did have a fantastic meal and they were turning people away shortly after we arrived. We were sat outside effectively on the road [they have a small area cordoned off by plant pots in typical italian fashion] but that didn’t detract as you felt that you were part of the street scene and there wasn’t too much traffic at that time of night. it was difficult to decide what to eat, but in the end DH had ravioli of porcini and prosciutto, followed by calamari e gamberi [prawns] fritti, and I had carpaccio di buffalo [mozarella] gamberi, e melon with tagliatini con aragosta [lobster] to follow. It was all excellent but probably DH’s ravioli was the best. As usual we drank a litre of sparkling water plus wine recommended by the waiter - in this case a local white [no note of the name unfortunately] which was about €18 for the bottle which of course we finished. We were too full for pud, so we opted for coffee and had 2 espressos each, which they comped us for some reason, so the whole lot came to €75.
And after a very long day, we fell into bed and didn’t wake up until the morning; a perfect first day in Sicily.
Oct 2nd, 2016, 04:17 AM
#46
Oh, wonderful to read this, annhig! I so love your reports and this is a great beginning!
So glad that you also loved Ortigia! It's hard not to fall in love with such a charming place.
I must admit that DH and I were both really taken by the Duomo, both interior and exterior, but we both love the fact that it's built on an ancient Greek temple with columns clearly incorporated into the walls. You're absolutely right that it's a bit of a mishmash, and doesn't have a stunning interior like others we saw later in the trip, but we both were excited by that mishmash, and loved it precisely because of it! Of course, the Piazza di Duomo is a beautiful one, stunning in the evening when all the buildings are lit up.
So glad that you also loved Ortigia! It's hard not to fall in love with such a charming place.
I must admit that DH and I were both really taken by the Duomo, both interior and exterior, but we both love the fact that it's built on an ancient Greek temple with columns clearly incorporated into the walls. You're absolutely right that it's a bit of a mishmash, and doesn't have a stunning interior like others we saw later in the trip, but we both were excited by that mishmash, and loved it precisely because of it! Of course, the Piazza di Duomo is a beautiful one, stunning in the evening when all the buildings are lit up.
Oct 2nd, 2016, 04:39 AM
#47
Oh good, glad to see you arrive safely!
Totally agree with progol about the Duomo, I thought it had a wonderful feeling of peace from all those centuries of use.
You really keep your passports in your handbag?
Totally agree with progol about the Duomo, I thought it had a wonderful feeling of peace from all those centuries of use.
You really keep your passports in your handbag?
Oct 2nd, 2016, 09:03 AM
#48
Thank you both.
progol - perhaps we were not in the best of moods to enjoy the interior of the Duomo as we were beginning to flag by that point [we'd already been up for about 12 hours] but it didn't speak to us.
thursdaysd - we only keep our passports in my handbag when we are on the move. Otherwise they stay in the room safe or other secure place.
Anyway, I'll try not to have such a long gap before the next instalment.
progol - perhaps we were not in the best of moods to enjoy the interior of the Duomo as we were beginning to flag by that point [we'd already been up for about 12 hours] but it didn't speak to us.
thursdaysd - we only keep our passports in my handbag when we are on the move. Otherwise they stay in the room safe or other secure place.
Anyway, I'll try not to have such a long gap before the next instalment.
Oct 2nd, 2016, 01:34 PM
#49
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have read some of the Montalbano books but we don't have the TV series here yet. I would definitely watch it if I could find it. We went to Sicily this summer to visit my husband's family. It was our 3rd visit and I am sure not our last. Enjoying your report very much.
Oct 2nd, 2016, 01:49 PM
#50
thanks, lrock. Shame that you can't get the Montalbano series, it is really good with a wonderful sense of time and place, very much like the books. Where does your husband's family live?
I should certainly like to go back to Sicily, and soon.
I should certainly like to go back to Sicily, and soon.
Oct 2nd, 2016, 02:07 PM
#51
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Annhig: So glad I' awe found this report. I've been rather absent lately, but i love your reports and have never been to Sicily, I really would love to visit there, and not sure I'll ever make it, but I'll follow you with pleasure.
Oct 2nd, 2016, 02:10 PM
#52
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Salaparuta. It is inland from Paletmo. We flew in to Palermo and stayed in a hotel in the countryside close to Sambuca di Sicilia. We also visited Agrigento, Monreale (wow) and a few other places. Sadly we were only there for 5 days. I feel your pain about the driving. Not sure what the rules are but we loved it and we love Sicily.
Oct 3rd, 2016, 02:43 AM
#55
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 621
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Besides the Montalbano series, Camilleri has written many other books, unfortunately many have not been translated into English. One that did make film status is "The Vanishing of Pato," also available from Amazon. Sicily late 1800's, brightly painted carts, wonderful costumes . . . just fun! Read the reviews and if it appeals . . . .
Oct 3rd, 2016, 03:53 AM
#56
Hi Envierges,
Thanks for mentioning his other works. I have been [trying to] read his short stories about Montalbano in italian and though it can be hard going at times, I enjoy doing it. however I think that I understand than I might otherwise would as i understand the context and know some of the names. With a completely new set of characters, I might be more at sea!
I shall certainly try to find that film - grazie!
Thanks for mentioning his other works. I have been [trying to] read his short stories about Montalbano in italian and though it can be hard going at times, I enjoy doing it. however I think that I understand than I might otherwise would as i understand the context and know some of the names. With a completely new set of characters, I might be more at sea!
I shall certainly try to find that film - grazie!
Oct 3rd, 2016, 05:41 AM
#57
The Montalbano series is shown on cable TV in the US occasionally -- I think we saw some episodes on CUNY-TV, but it's never made it to the public broadcasting networks (for me, PBS) that I'm aware of. It's too bad -- those shows we saw, DH and I also enjoyed thoroughly.
annhig, please, absolutely no criticism meant about the different takes we all have on our trips. That's why the different reports are so valuable to read, because we each have our personal experience of a place that can differ. And trust me, I wish I got to the restaurant you mentioned -- sounds fabulous! Or the puppet show, which we didn't end up seeing, either. So I'm reading and thinking that it might be nice to get back someday! Or at least dream about it.....
annhig, please, absolutely no criticism meant about the different takes we all have on our trips. That's why the different reports are so valuable to read, because we each have our personal experience of a place that can differ. And trust me, I wish I got to the restaurant you mentioned -- sounds fabulous! Or the puppet show, which we didn't end up seeing, either. So I'm reading and thinking that it might be nice to get back someday! Or at least dream about it.....
Oct 3rd, 2016, 07:11 AM
#58
annhig, please, absolutely no criticism meant about the different takes we all have on our trips. That's why the different reports are so valuable to read, because we each have our personal experience of a place that can differ.>>
Progol, I had to go back and reread what you had written to find the criticism! of course all our trips are different and inevitably we will have different reactions to the things that we see and do, but I certainly didn't take offence because you liked the Duomo more than I did [if that's what you were referring to?]
It was pure serendipity that we managed to get tickets for the puppet theatre - I'd almost forgotten about it until we picked up the map in the hotel [so it was definitely doing its job] and I was fully expecting it would be sold out to groups. I'm sorry you missed it but I'm sure you saw many other wonderful things that we missed, so we will both have to go back!
Progol, I had to go back and reread what you had written to find the criticism! of course all our trips are different and inevitably we will have different reactions to the things that we see and do, but I certainly didn't take offence because you liked the Duomo more than I did [if that's what you were referring to?]
It was pure serendipity that we managed to get tickets for the puppet theatre - I'd almost forgotten about it until we picked up the map in the hotel [so it was definitely doing its job] and I was fully expecting it would be sold out to groups. I'm sorry you missed it but I'm sure you saw many other wonderful things that we missed, so we will both have to go back!
Oct 3rd, 2016, 07:15 AM
#59
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 621
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
annhig
If you're reading Montalbano in Italian . . .it really isn't Italian but Camilleri's version of Sicilian as spoken in his birthplace area of western Sicily, Below is a link to a dictionary published years ago by Il Giornali di Sicilia.
This helped me a lot. I think you'll have fun with it.
http://www.vigata.org/dizionario/cam...inguaggio.html
If you're reading Montalbano in Italian . . .it really isn't Italian but Camilleri's version of Sicilian as spoken in his birthplace area of western Sicily, Below is a link to a dictionary published years ago by Il Giornali di Sicilia.
This helped me a lot. I think you'll have fun with it.
http://www.vigata.org/dizionario/cam...inguaggio.html
Oct 3rd, 2016, 07:15 AM
#60
Absolutely, annhig! Perhaps we will overlap in one of those visits! I'm glad you didn't feel any criticism -- probably my own hyper sensitivity and was, as you know, simply offering a differing take on the duomo.
Now on to the next part of your report!
Now on to the next part of your report!
