Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

I left my liver in Lisbon

Search

I left my liver in Lisbon

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 08:29 AM
  #61  
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,635
Likes: 21
Who did you book the tour with? Did you book online in advance? Thanks.
maitaitom is offline  
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 08:34 AM
  #62  
Community Builder
Community Influencer
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 22,121
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Melnq8
In Coimbra did you go to the Joanina Library at the University Square?

Yes, as stated above:

Our entry into the Biblioteca Joanina Baroque Library (the oldest library in Portugal) was timed, with entry 15 minutes after we arrived, and limited to a 15 minute visit. We were ushered along by an employee who made sure we didn’t overstay our welcome.
--------------

Sorry Melnq8, I must have missed that line , too busy looking at all your Coimbra pictures.

Waiting for more pictures !!
Percy is online now  
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 08:42 AM
  #63  
Original Poster
Community Builder
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,148
Likes: 83
Originally Posted by maitaitom
Who did you book the tour with? Did you book online in advance? Thanks.
We didn't book, we just turned up and bought a ticket from the ticket office. No lines, no drama.

Last edited by Melnq8; Jul 5th, 2022 at 08:45 AM.
Melnq8 is offline  
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 08:54 AM
  #64  
 
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Following along, I love your trip reports! My husband's aunt just spent a little over a month traveling in Portugal and I definitely want to go.
Flwrhead is offline  
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 08:57 AM
  #65  
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,635
Likes: 21
"We didn't book, we just turned up and bought a ticket from the ticket office. No lines, no drama."

Thanks. Did you get advance reservations for the Sintra palaces? Your photos are stupendous!
maitaitom is offline  
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 09:18 AM
  #66  
Original Poster
Community Builder
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,148
Likes: 83
No, didn't book in Sintra either. We turned up when the gates opened instead. Details on that coming up.

Only things we booked were tapas in the Douro, dinner in Pinhao, and dinner in Evora. None of which were necessary.

When planning this trip I kept reading about how it was necessary to book this and that. That wasn't our experience at all.
Melnq8 is offline  
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 10:04 AM
  #67  
Community Builder
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 0
Mel, Coimbra media is reporting that someone apparently walked away the Joanina's oldest copy of the 'Lets Go Portugal 1492' guidebook. Couldn't help but notice that the theft coincided with your day of visiting.
Carry on.
I am done. the dead combo
zebec is online now  
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 11:27 AM
  #68  
Original Poster
Community Builder
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,148
Likes: 83
zebec - Ha! That would have been quite a feat.

And thank you flwrhead, Percy and maitaitom (those library photos aren't mine by the way, that's a Percy contribution - photos not allowed).

Last edited by Melnq8; Jul 5th, 2022 at 11:32 AM.
Melnq8 is offline  
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 12:58 PM
  #69  
Community Builder
Community Influencer
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 22,121
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Melnq8
zebec - Ha! That would have been quite a feat.

And thank you flwrhead, Percy and maitaitom (those library photos aren't mine by the way, that's a Percy contribution - photos not allowed).

Percy did not take those pictures.

But the Library is beautiful.!!
Percy is online now  
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 01:32 PM
  #70  
Original Poster
Community Builder
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,148
Likes: 83
Everything and nothing

Down those 65 steps again and across the street for a nice latte, then into a bakery for some chocolate croissants, which were unusual and doughy, but good (3.50).

Then back up those 65 steps to eat and collect Bill.

Coimbra had grown on us. The black caped students, the narrow winding alleyways, the near vertical hills, the tiles, the street art, even the grit.

In an attempt to find the aqueduct and the stairs we’d heard so much about we set out to explore. Our meander took us through a neighborhood of interesting street art and then alongside the river, where we encountered some sort of race; cops were out in force, streets had been blocked off and traffic diverted, necessitating us to turn back and find another route.


Wandering

Wandering

Wandering

Wandering

Street art

Street art

We got sidetracked by Parque Verde on the banks of the River Mondego. High walls blocked off much of the park due to some sort of construction, but we followed some of the runners into the park and stumbled across this huge green bear, and a group of students who asked us to take their photo in front of it.


Approach to Parque Verde

Parque Verde


We backtracked and popped into the tourist office to enquire about those stairs we kept hearing about and then climbed up the same steep narrow streets from yesterday. We finally found them – Escadas Monumentais, a staircase with 125 steps that connect Praca D. Dinis to the University. We’d also found the aqueduct.

There were a few tour groups up here and try as we might, we couldn’t understand the significance of the stairs. I’ve since scoured the internet and found this:

These stairs are part of an urban intervention carried out during the Estado Novo period. This intervention covered a vast area known as the "Alta Universitária" (University's Uptown). Construction begain in 1942 and was completed 27 years later. It led to the demolition of a large part of the residential and commercial area that previously existed here, as well as the last arch of the aqueduct, for the construction of the new buildings of the faculties of mathematics, letters, medicine, physics, chemistry, the general library and archives of the university.

The demolition of the Uptown was so vast, that from all the historical buildings that previously were found here, only part of the Aqueduct, and the 16th century college Colégio de São Jerónimo, survived.

In the place where the Monumental Stairs were built, there was, until the intervention, a smaller staircase surrounded by trees, known as "Escadas do Liceu". The Monumental Stairs, like almost all buildings surrounding you, are characterized by the grand and austere style of the architecture of "Estado Novo". They were one of the stages in 1969 for large student protests against the repression and police brutality exercised by the dictatorship of the Estado Novo.

Well okay then.

We continued our wander, passing a long queue in front of a shop that specializes in academic attire – a sale perhaps? www.atoga.pt


Sale?

Sale?


We eventually found ourselves at the Mercado again – open this time.

We perused our lunch options, Bill finding his sushi, but having trouble explaining what he wanted. My alarm bells went off when I noticed the cashier ringing up 24 orders. We got it sorted, and he enjoyed it so much that he went back for seconds, 6.50 each. I settled on a doughy calzone (8.50) – all washed down with a lovely pitcher of red berry sangria (14).



Mercado Municipal

Mercado Municipal

Mercado Municipal

Mercado Municipal...Round 2

Then it was back out to explore, heading up the leafy Avenida Sa Da Bandeira where we ran across a spirited religious gathering. Bill’s first thought was that it was a demonstration of some kind based on the police presence, but this was not the first, or last time we’d see such a presence at a seemingly innocuous gathering.


Avenida Sa Da Bandeira

Avenida Sa Da Bandeira

We continued our wander, eventually ending up at Praça da República, then walked through Parque de Santa Cruz, encountering more stairs, another square and a cat colony. The rain was gone now and it was quite warm.


Parque de Santa Cruz

Parque de Santa Cruz

Cat colony

Hot and thirsty, we returned to the Mercado for more sangria, where we shut the place down (3 pm).

We then went in search of the bus station, wanting to know where it was for tomorrow’s departure. It felt like we walked forever, but we finally found it.

Then it was back up those 65 steps to collect our dirty clothes, then back down and to a laundromat to wash and dry, then a student street performance, and one last Indian meal at Gul and Guls, empty at 8 pm, wondering how they stayed in business (23.50). We were amused by the long line of DoorDash and UberEats drivers parked next door at Burger King, all glued to their phones, presumably waiting for orders to come in.


Student street performance

It’d been a day of everything and nothing. We’d logged many miles and had consumed many calories. We felt we’d gotten a pretty good taste of Coimbra.

​​​​​​​To be continued...
Melnq8 is offline  
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 02:06 PM
  #71  
Original Poster
Community Builder
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,148
Likes: 83
A hell of a bridge

We were up and out the door by 7 am - trying - but spectacularly failing - to be quiet as we hefted our luggage down those 65 steps.

We then rumbled over the cobblestones – making yet more noise on this sleepy Sunday morning - towards the bus station, having allowed plenty of time as it was some distance away.

We arrived before the gates to the bus station were open, so we looked for coffee – but found no cafes in the vicinity – not that it mattered as they’d have been closed anyway.

We spotted a McDonalds down the block so headed there - it too was closed, due to open at 8 am. So we sat at one of their picnic tables and waited. My latte, once acquired from the separate kiosk inside the restaurant, was very good (and cheap!). Bill returned to the restaurant to get a sandwich – which took forever – meanwhile I sat outside, entertained by a table of young people who appeared to have been out all night, and were engaged in a very animated conversation. I have no idea what they were saying, but given the intense arguing, and being an American, I couldn’t help but think it was political.

We’d purchased our Rede Expressos bus tickets and booked our seats online before leaving the US (19).

Getting on the bus was a bit chaotic, passengers were being directed to both sides to load their luggage, creating a lot of crisscrossing human traffic.

The ride however, was enjoyable and quite peaceful, despite a kid in the back trying to cough up a lung, making us worry about COVID.

The seats were comfortable, and for the first time since we’d arrived in Portugal, we got a good look at the green rolling hills of the countryside. This is what I’d expected the Douro to look like.

We passed several large petrol station/truck stops, me surprised at how busy they were. The wind howled and storm clouds moved in, tossing the bus around a bit, but that endless green…fabulous.

En route we passed the exits for the Conimbriga Roman ruins (which I’d just heard about the day before) and for Tomar. After a short stop in Fatima, the bus continued on to Lisboa Sete Rios, the entire journey taking about 2.5 hours.

Lisboa Sete Rios felt huge and was a sea of humanity, giving us a glimpse of what was to come in the next week, the big smoke of Lisbon. With time to kill before our next bus, we left the chaotic station and walked to a nearby outdoor waiting area with a kiosk selling coffee and snacks. We cooled our heels over a coffee, and then returned to the station and boarded the 12 pm bus to Evora, this bus much busier than the first.

Soon we were crossing the Ponte Vasco da Gama Bridge which spans the Tagus River and at 17 kilometers, is the second longest bridge in Europe. It was something else. Wow.



Ponte Vasco da Gama Bridge

Ponte Vasco da Gama Bridge

We were now surrounded by flat countryside, driving through a swarm of bugs that sounded like rain hitting the windshield. We began to see huge nests on top of the power lines and their long-legged inhabitants – storks – the first time either of us had seen one in the flesh.

The landscape eventually became dry and much less green, abundant telephone SOS boxes lined the highway. Then trees we’d never seen before began to appear – cork? Then vineyards, these in full leaf, unlike the barren vines we’d seen in the Douro. We were now in an agricultural belt, complete with livestock.

We passed an exit towards Spain, which threw me a bit; a few years ago I’d tried to plan a three person, three itinerary trip to Spain and Portugal, but had given up in vain, as the logistics had given me a serious head cramp. It seems I should be been looking into bus routes.

We eventually pulled into Evora where we began the usual faffing about, trying to find our way to our hotel, my phone GPS not cooperating…again. Fortunately, Bill has a good memory, and had looked at a map that morning. We rolled our luggage to our hotel just inside the city’s walls; only a 20 minute walk, but a pain to reach thanks to cobblestones and a busy roundabout.


It was a lot warmer here in the north; we were hot, annoyed and tired by the time we reached our hotel.

I’d booked a superior double room at the Hotel Moov, chosen for its proximity to the bus station, its lenient cancellation policy (free cancel until 4 pm day of arrival) and its good reviews (254 for three nights with breakfast).

After getting settled we went out looking for food; town quite busy on this pretty Sunday. We first checked with EvoraTaste, a restaurant on my must try list, but alas their kitchen had already closed.

We next tried a café across from the church, where we were glanced at, but completely ignored by several wait staff. We finally bailed and walked to the Mercado, finding everything closed but the cheese shop. We then stopped at two other cafes, but it was almost 3 pm, and they had stopped serving food. It seems we’d run into the witching hour, a common occurrence for us in Switzerland; and evidently a thing in Evora as well.

I finally asked a waiter if anyplace in town was still serving food, and he pointed us in the direction of 100 Montaditos, which as it turned out, was a pub-like fast food place, which offered a huge variety of inexpensive small plates. Not only were they open and serving food (until 4 pm), but they were helpful and friendly.

So we had snacks (9.50) and sangria and watched a table of kids – one who looked no older than 14 - get sloshed while watching soccer on the big screen.

Later that evening we returned to Evora Taste, which we’d booked via The Fork on my phone. We were surprised to find the restaurant completely deserted given how busy it had been this afternoon; I got a kick out of this wall hanging which so aptly depicts our time in Portugal.


EvoraTaste


I went for the fried cheese with homemade jam and fried green beans; Bill tried - and thoroughly enjoyed - the porco preto - black pork burger with bacon, fried egg and fries (good food, good value, friendly service – 27.65 with two glasses of wine and sparkling water).

And what pray tell is black pork?

Evidently, black pork comes from native Iberian pigs that thrive in the Alentejo countryside, where they feed on acorns from cork and holm trees. The name comes from the grey to black hue of the pig’s skin.


Fried cheese with homemade jam

Fried green beans

Porco Preto - black pork burger with bacon, fried egg and fries

Then we waddled back to the hotel to digest.

To be continued...

Last edited by Melnq8; Jul 5th, 2022 at 02:13 PM.
Melnq8 is offline  
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 03:42 PM
  #72  
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,709
Likes: 1
Sooner you than me with all those stairs! I used the elevator the last time I was in Coimbra. BTW, that looks like sashimi. not sushi.
thursdaysd is offline  
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 04:22 PM
  #73  
Original Poster
Community Builder
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,148
Likes: 83
Originally Posted by thursdaysd
Sooner you than me with all those stairs! I used the elevator the last time I was in Coimbra. BTW, that looks like sashimi. not sushi.
You're right about the sashimi. My bad.

And one would need to have an elevator to use it
Melnq8 is offline  
Old Jul 5th, 2022 | 07:07 PM
  #75  
Community Builder
Community Influencer
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 22,121
Likes: 0
I am just loving following you around. Hope I haven't kicked your heels yet. !

Love all your pictures.

You certainly were not starving, seeing those food pictures.'

The Porco Preto looks delicious, maybe a little hard on the arteries.
Percy is online now  
Old Jul 6th, 2022 | 03:30 AM
  #76  
Ian
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,283
Likes: 9
Getting lost – but not lost - along the Douro . . . a GPS that has decided it needs its own holiday . . . absolutely everything is up or down . . .very friendly and helpful locals . . . yeah, it sounds like Portugal.

Great report Melnq8.
Ian is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2022 | 04:44 AM
  #77  
Community Builder
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,205
Likes: 0
I enjoyed your description of your bus ride and the scenery along the way. Love the food photos! Fried cheese with jam and fried green beans sound and look delicious! When we were in Portugal, we only visited Lisbon and Sintra, and I don't remember seeing fried green beans on the menu.
KarenWoo is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2022 | 04:51 AM
  #78  
Original Poster
Community Builder
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,148
Likes: 83
thursdaysd - I thought you were referring to an elevator in the apartment.

Yes, we saw the elevator near the Mercado and asked the guy operating it about tickets, but he told us he couldn't sell us one and it wasn't clear where to get one so we hoofed it instead.

I didn't find the hills near the University all that bad, but the one that led us down to the river and back up was a doozy.

Thank you Percy, Ian and Karen!

About that food - most petiscos we found on menus were fried - I'm not big on fried, but had to give some a go. The green beans were okay, but not something I'd want on a regular basis.

And yeah, we definitely didn't go hungry!

Last edited by Melnq8; Jul 6th, 2022 at 04:56 AM.
Melnq8 is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2022 | 12:37 PM
  #79  
5 Anniversary
 
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
Fried green beans ("Peixinhos da Horta") are one of the most popular and typical dishes in Portugal, from North to South. They are usually a main dish, eated with tomato rice. The name means "fish from the backyard". They are made the same way as fish is made (fried in tempura), and it was a cleaver way of making of that you were eating protein, when one has no money for meat, fish, eggs, etc. The Japanese were so found about this dish, when the portuguese arrived there in the 16th century, that they made it, and still make, with many other vegetables and other things.

https://guide.michelin.com/hk/en/art...res/tempura_en

Melqn, concerning the storks, well, they are a sign for babies, in portuguese culture, they bring babies. I know you got tested for Covid, but others tests exist... (and don't argue, because you were in Portugal, country of many miracles.). Just saying...
HelenaFatima is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2022 | 12:40 PM
  #80  
Original Poster
Community Builder
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,148
Likes: 83
Helena - interesting about the green beans. Storks bring babies in American culture too. Not to me, thankfully
Melnq8 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement -