Please excuse the basic reporting style - I didn't want to be too self indulgent...

Departure / Arrival :
Flew NYC to Frankfurt to Split. Croatia Airlines has a bus (30 kn) that takes you to the town terminal (ferries, buses, taxis all in one place). We were late leaving Frankfurt so the 2 pm fast ferry to Hvar was sold out by the time I got to the Jadrolinja ticket booth. Bought at ticket for the 3:30 slow ferry and checked my luggage (5 kn for 2 hours; near bus terminal, across from where the ferries dock) and explored Diocletian's Palace. Split is dirty, dusty, lots of graffiti, lots of tourist shops, ugly apartment buildings - I would suggest spending just a few hours and then moving on. Ferry tickets can be bought one day in advance - recommended for fast ferries.

Slow ferry took about 2 1/2 hours. Stayed at the Palace Hotel - great location with communist charm and furnishings are very minimal. Clean but very modest.   If you stay here request a double, harbor side, second or third floor, unobstructed view. I would recommend getting half board. Another option: the Hotel Adriatic - a good location but I would be concerned about the bars along the harbor playing music till 4 am. Best bet - rent a soba from a Croatian  - make sure it's within town. All the church bells in town ring at 6am (and one at 7:15 am just to make sure you're awake) - and the ferry signals departure at 8:30 am and 8:45 am before leaving at 9 am - be prepared to start the day early or bring ear plugs. After showering went to the Konoba Luna for dinner, then drinks along the harbor's edge and finally to bed.

Day 1 - After breakfast grabbed my towel, swimming goggles and went for a swim - you can walk along the harbor either way and in time find a place to spread out. There is mostly rock beaches (not smooth pebbled beaches) which makes getting into the water a bit tricky. Aqua shoes are a must - makes for getting in and out safer and protects your feet from sea urchins. Spent the afternoon at the Fortress, which is situated high above Hvar town - the view over the town and the surrounding islands is beautiful - the sunlight dancing off the water, the town's tannish white stone buildings and clay tiled roofs, ferries arriving and leaving, sailboats and yatchs cruising around the islands, people walking along the harbor's edge, church bells ringing. There is a restaurant in the Fortress - I had a couple glasses of house wine sitting along the wall and just taking it all in - letting the "island life" mind-set sink in. As I was walking back down through the town I heard nuns singing afternoon prayers at the convent. Had dinner at The Golden Shell - the owner is a member, as am I, of Slow Foods - very personable man. Afterwards, meandered the narrow stone walkways around town and had a few drinks along the harbor.

Day 2 -
Toured the Arsenal then caught a boat taxi to Palminzana (40 kn), one of the islands of the Otok Pakelini. The pebbled beach is small and has three restaurants fronting it. I walked out along one side of the cove - found a spot and caught some sun. Had lunch a Zori - sitting under pine trees, the gentle swells surging right below me, the hiss of the water on smooth pebbles. Later on a large group of teenage Italian boys and girls took over the beach - laughing, shouting, giggeling - it was beautiful watching them play ( I almost felt a bit lascivious watching). The boys showing off, jumping off each other's shoulders - the girls posing on the small stone docks. A light rain in the afternoon but the taxi arrived 5 minutes early. Had dinner at Menego and once again, just walked around town - up and down stairs, a drink along the harbor. An Irish and Australian couple invited me to join them at their table for drinks - afterwards we went to Carpe Diem. Lots of attractive men and women and a cool vibe - very restrained considering the amount of drinking going on. The owners of the yatchs and sailboats moored along the harbor watched the love parade from the comfort of their boats. Later my new friends and I went for an au natural late night swim under a waxing moon.

Day 3
Rented and scooter and headed off to Stari Grad. Drove through burned swaths of forest and green swaths of forest. Strange burned landscape with stone piled walls. Stari Grad is very quiet and still I could see living here - Hvar is very lively. There were moments where I would take a breath and I felt my whole being relax - spread out a bit. The town stretches on both sides of a long harbor - one can see the mountains of the coast in the distance. Had lunch a Juro Podrum - ham, spaghetti with lobster, girice and house white wine. The spaghetti had capers, tomatoes, garlic. Small restaurant - 20 people max. The owner: "...may, june, september and october are the best months....july and august are too busy..." Walked along the harbor to the Hotel Levanda and swam - the misty clouds pouring over the green mountains. Slowly made my way back to Hvar - signage is very easy to understand. Had dinner at Macondo - get a table outside - the lamps shades swaying in the breeze, the soft light on the tan white stones, people passing by. Had the chef's recommendations - combo platter of fish pate, octopus salad and anchovies; risotto fruta de mare, 1st class fish fillet with grilled vegetables. Ordered a bottle of white - Bodanjusa. Desert - watermelon and then a couple glasses of Prosec - deep ruby red not the brown oloroso type served at the bars. During dinner I heard thunder in the distance. The midnight blue sky changing to periwinkle then back. Near the end of my meal the heavens opened and released a torrent of rain - couples rain soaked but laughing, instant waterfalls created by the numerous stairs. It hadn't rained for 9 months - they needed it plus it gave me an opportunity to see the town in a different light.

Day 4
Woke to intermittent rain. Walked over to the Franciscan Monastery and got caught there for about 2 hours due to heavy downpour. It was kinda pleasant sitting in the cloistered courtyard listening to the rain splatter on the white marble - the church bells ringing on the hour. The rain finally eased and I went and had lunch at Palaca Paladini - spaghetti frutti de mare, grilled squid and the house white. Afterwards walked around exploring and photographing from various vantage points. Coming back into town along the harbor edge I noticed the clouds were breaking up and the setting sun light was washing over the the town. I stopped at The Two Fisherman - which is located near the Hotel Adriatic on the harbor - grab a table, ordered some house white, local cheese and dalmation ham and watched the sun light shift from golden yellow to pink, a evening settle over the town and harbor. Across the harbor the moon was rising behind the hill of houses, beneath the silhouetted royal palm trees and people walk along the harbor's edge, sailboats mooring lines creak and groan while their masts sway to and fro, wisps of clouds from today's storm obscure the moon. Finally the full moon made her appearance. The city dried from the breezes and the sky cleared. Met Alan from Paris - had drinks along the harbor's edgea and walked around the town soaking in the vibe.

Day 5
Had arrange a boat excursion (150 kn, lunch included) with Atlas Tours to Bol on the island of Brac. Cruise started at 9 am and took about 2 1/2 hours to get there. Lunch was included but I wanted to get off the boat and explore Bol before heading off to the Golden Horn. Bol doesn't have a lot of ambience - the harbor is charming. Had lunch at Gust - excellent. Lobster salad, salted sardines, green spaghetti frutti de mare and the house white. Instead of taking a water taxi from Bol to the Godlen Horn I strongly recommend walking there. The walk goes along the coast under pine trees and take about 25 minutes at a leisurely pace. The Golden Horn is a smooth peeble beach which juts out to point - one one side of the Horn wind surfers, jet skies and boat swarm like humming birds. The setting is sublime - the mountains lord over the Horn, blue clear water on your left and right, the sound of the waves on the pebbles, a gentle breeze. I wish I had a full day here - I would recommend spending 2 nights here - 3 hours was not enough. The boat ride back was a tad long. There is a boat taxi from Bol to Jelsa but not sure of the times. Had a small dinner at Farina - the huge patio is underneath a huge canopy of grape vines with clusters of grapes within arms reach. Restaurant seem to cater more to larger groups and families. Had a hvar plate (ham, pag cheese, sardines and sea food salad) and carpet shells (briny clams) Met Milan, an illustrator I work with, who is now living in Hvar with his wife , Kiko, for drinks. Sitting in the front of the cathedral - kids playing soccer, outdoor cafes buzzing, the piazzata leading my eyes to the boats at the opposite end, the church bells ringing - why can't America have public spaces like this? After drinks went to bed early.

Day 6 -
Woke up early to clear blue skies - however due to winds the Blue Grotto tours had been moved to the next day - decided to rent a scooter again and go to Jelsa, Verboska and the south side of the island. Early morning light sparkles off the water - the sweeping views of the surrounding islands was dreamy and made me constantly pull over to take it all in. Headed to Jelsa - another sleepy town which is wonderful to just walk around and get lost in - the gentle breezes rustle the pomegranite trees which hung over the walls. Decided to go to Zatvala - which is on the south side of the island. To get to this town you must drive through a very long, dark one-car width tunnel - and the control light was not working. To say the least it was a bit unnerving and then once out of the tunnel you must do numerous tight switch backs. Going down wasn't so hard but coming back up concerned me. Found a smooth peebled beach - the island Scredo opposite. Laid out and swam for a few hours then had lunch at Skalinada - gnocci with gorgonzola, fresh caught fish fillet with potatos and zuchinni and the house white. I saw the chef buying this huge fish for a family of 6 - he had a few extra fillets left over. It was so fresh and all for 150 kn, tip included. Had promised Milan and Kiko I woud stop by their house in Verbanja - I found the town but not their house. After 45 minutes of driving around - shouting "MILAN! KIKO!" - I took off for Verbroska because I wanted another swim. A small town with bridges spanning a central canal which opens to a harbor. Pulled off numerous times to take a swim - around 5 pm iI realized that sunset from the Fortress should be perfect. I raced back to Hvar - the sun slowly setting behind the mountains and the temperature getting cooler. The belvederes along the way kept making me stop, pull out my camera and my video cam. I dropped the bike off around 6:30 and raced up the mountain to the Fortress to watch sunset. Clouds of purples and oranges, slate blue storm clouds, rain and lightning on the horizon, purple islands - the sunset was framed by two thunderstorms on the horizon with lightening. Had dinner at Memego again - an Italian couple from Venice was sat at the same table. Through broken English and Italian we talked and laughed - they insisted I let them know when I visit Venice so they can show me around. They mentioned that this was the 7th time to Croatia and maybe, just maybe, they liked Sardenia a bit more.

Day 7
Woke early to see if the Blue Grotto was a go - unfortunately partly cloudy skies cancelled the excursion. I was able to appraise what excusrion the taxi boats were offering that day and decide to go to Piscena (50 kn), which I read had interesting caves also. Had espresso at one one of the cafes on the square then went to the farmers market and bought some home-made wine in a plastic bottle and some dried figs. The boat left at 10:30 and took about 30 minutes to get to the caves - Michael dropped anchor and we passengers swam around the caves for about 30 minutes. We then went to Piscena, which is a smooth pebbled cove tucked in between some mountains. Everyone spread out a polite distance from each other. At first the group of British girls kept talking and talking but as the sun got higher in the sky, the clouds disappated and the repetive surge of the sea - the tranquility of the place settled down upon everyone. Michael also has a restaurant at the cove - eating at is optional and additonal money. I walked up to see him stoking the grill with wood - he told me lunch would be ready in a few hours. Around 1 Michael came down to the beach with complimentry glasses of Prosec. We talked about Prosec and I was surprised to learn that there is a wide range of Prosec - even a white one. Between the homade wine and figs, going for swims, napping underneath a warm sun, watching sailboats and yatchs go by, the sound of crickets, the blue green clear cool water - I realized that for the past 6 days I had been runnning around and had not really kicked backed - this was perfect last day (I'll do the Blue Grotto next year). Around 3 I went up for lunch - ham, a whole grilled fish (180 kn) and the house white. Adding tip the total came to 250 kn - a wondeful meal and setting. We left the cove at 5. During the summer there is a music program with students practicing in the gallery in front of the Palace Hotel - tonight they were giving a concert( 30 kn) to benefit the Arsenal. All week as I had been leaving the hotel I would hear flautists practicing - I attended their performance. Afterwards I had another dreamy meal outside Macondo - the lobster spaghetti contained a tail and one claw - the meat was so sweet and tender, 2nd class fish with roasted vegetables, house white and prosec for dessert . (Milan had informed me that in Croatia they have 1st class fish, 2nd class fish and 3rd class fish all priced accordingly, as are scooters) The walkway had emptied out and I was alone - sitting underneath lamps swaying in the breeze, Ella Fitzgerald in the background.

Departure
8 am - one last walk along the harbour and an espresso at one of the outdoor cafes. The catamaran ferry left at 9 am and I arrived back in Split in1 hour. The Croatian Airline bus arrives at the terminal 1 1/2 hours before their departing flight to take you to the airport (30 kn). The flight home was uneventful - Lufthansa is a nice airline - Franfurt looks to be a great jump off point. Got home around 9:30 pm but unfortunately the kennel was already closed - coming home to an empty apartment made me a bit meloncholy. Picked up my dog next morning and got back to the work routine. Next destination: Istanbul.

Restaurants:

Luna Konoba
tel 021-741-400; mob 098-748-695
Petra Hektorovica 5
[email protected]
Located directly across from the Golden Shell - the third floor is open to the sky. The food is well prepared - had fish pate with smoked salmon, octopus salad and spaghetti buzara - ordera bottle of white Zlatan Otok. I was a bit jet lagged but thought everything was quite good. Cool hip music played discreetly in the background.

Golden Shell
Petra Hektorovica 8
mob 098-16-88-797
The owner is a member of Slow Food's. Started off with dalamation ham and goat cheese in olive oil, for entree steak stuffed with goat cheese and capers and a side order of swiss chard and potatoes - ordered a bottle of Zlatan Otok red. Everything was well prepared The owner is very personable. I realized half way back across the Atlantic that dumplings on the menu probably meant ravioli (doh!). Would have like to have gotten back here for another meal - next year.

Zori
Palmizana, Pakleni Otoci
tel 385-021-718-231; mob 098-168-3377
[email protected]
Fresh scampi grilled, dalmation ham and a bottle of Luviji (white). Had a couple glass of Prosec for dessert. Food that is somewhat challenging to eat is always an adventure for me - am I suppose to eat this or more importantly, am I NOT suppose to eat that? Also getting the hands messay (ahh the puritan ethic). Everything was satisfying and the setting over looking the cove underneath pine trees is very tranquil.

Restaurants:

Menego
Vl. Dinko Kovacevic
tel. 021-742-036; mob. 091-548-5845
www.menego.hr
[email protected]
This restaurant only serves what I would call starters (almost tapas size portions). The care, attention and pride of their products is obvious - almost everything I had was superb. Marinated anchovies, Pag cheese, octopus salad (with chick peas mixed in adding a nice contrast of textures), dalmation ham (smooth and buttery), dalmation bacon ( a bit thicker and chewier), the house wine, figs stuffed with almonds and soaked in spirits, the orange and walnut liquors - excellent. The only thing that failed to win me over was the stuffed bread (almost like a stuffed foccia). A small cellar restaurant. I met a couple from Venice my second time here.

Jorum Podrum
Duonja kola, Stari Grad, Hvar
tel 021-765-829; mob 091-573-63-76
[email protected]
Recommended in Footprint. Had the house white, some dalamtion ham, spaghetti with lobster ( the tomatoes, capers, garlic, white wine - wonderful) and the plate of fresh fried girice (little fish which could be eaten whole). The owner told me the best months are may, June, September and October - july and august are to busy.

Macondo
Groda bb
tel. 021 -742-850
[email protected]
Situated about a block off the main square and near Hektorovica unfinished house - this is one of the more upscale restaurants. The food quality is excellent. I did the chef's recommendations - hvar sampler plate of fish pate-octopus salad- marinated anchovies, fruta di mare risotto, fish fillet w/roasted vegetables. Ordered a bottle of white - Bodanjusa. For desert - a couple slices of fresh succulent watermelon. Try and get a table outside along the walkway - the lights swaying in the breeze, people passing by - makes for a wonderful setting. Finished with some homemade prosec - which was a deep ruby red. I had my last dinner here - lobster spaghetti (140 kn), other white fish (120 kn), grilled vegetable (25 kn) a 1/2 liter of house white (30 kn) - once again a beautiful peaceful setting - late at night I had the walkway to myself.

Palaca Paladini
Luci Antun Tudor, Hvar
tel 385-021-742-104
email: [email protected]
Located near Golden Shell and Konoba Luna. Had spaghetti fruta de mare, grilled squid and a liter of the house white. The grilled squid were excellent.

Two Fisherman (Dua Ribara)
located on Fabrika; between Stelle di mare and Hotel Adriatic; along the harbor's edge
tel 021-741-109
Great view of the town and harbor - try a get a table during sunset. Ordered a plate of dalmation ham, locally made cheese and a liter of house white. Decide to try the lamb which was okay - maybe a little over cooked. But the view is great. The lemon ice cream was a nice a finish.

Gust
Frane Radica 14, Bol, Brac
tel 385-21-635-911; mob 098-423-003
Recommended I Footprint. Had lobster salad and salted sardines (with a slice of onion and some olive oil - delicious) and the green spaghetti fruta de mare (scampi, mussels,, shrimps, clams). If your in Bol this is a good choice.

Faria
Ulica sv. Marka, Hvar
mob 098-361-543
Located to the left of the cathedral. I stumbled upon this place my first jet lagged night in Hvar after having two bottles of wine and had a helluva time finding it again. The huge patio is under a canopy of grape vines with clusters of grapes within arms reach. The restaurant seems to cater more to large groups and families. Tried a hvar plate (sampling of ham, pag cheese, sardine and seafood salad) and carpet shells ( clams - not as plump as mussels but briny and plentiful.

Hotel Skalinada
Zavala, Hvar
tel / fax 385-021-767-019
After driving through a very long dark tunnel and making my way down a steep twisting road I found this restaurant on the south side of the island. A fisherman was delivering a freshly caught fish to the owner/chef. I started with gnochhi with gorgonzola (50 kn) and a fillet from the freshly caught fish with zuchinni + potatoes (70 kn) and a liter of the house white (20 kn). There are also room for rent - if you're looking for a true get away on the island the south side is the place to go.

Piscena
Piscena, Hvar
boat taxi - Mice Domancic
mob ++385-91-1742-936
The Blue Grotto had been canceled so I decided to take a boat taxi (50 kn) to a private cove, which just happened to have a restaurant owned by the boat taxi driver (eating there was optional). While I swam and laid out, MIchael started up a wood fire in the grill. I had ham(20 kn), a whole grilled fish (180 kn) and the house white (10kn) - with tip: 250 kn. The setting - the tranquility - the food - the boat ride - this was a perfect meal

misc price list:

8.50 kn - 1 liter of mineral water
8 kn - 2 scoops of gelatto / ice cream
300 kn - scooter rental for 4 to 12 hrs
6 kn - single espresso
15 kn - 1/2  kilo of dried figs
10 kn - admission to the fortress
55 kn - roll o f 100 ASA slide film (ow!)
40 kn - a bottle of homemade rekija
40 kn - boat taxi to Palminzana
150 kn - boat excursion to Bol, includes lunch
250 kn - boat excursion to the Blue and Green Caves and Vis
2 - 3 kn - postcard
12 kn - glass of Prosec
300 kn - 1st class whole grilled fish  
500 kn - grill 1 kilo lobster
40 kn - 1 liter of house wine
100 - 210 kn - for bottle of wine ordered in restaurant
22 kn - fast catamaran from Hvar to Split (a little over 1 hr)
33 kn - slow ferry from Split to Hvar
30 kn - Croatia Airline bus from Split Airport to Town Terminal
5 kn - to store luggage for 2 hrs while in Split
30 kn - girice ( small fried fish)
50 - 70 kn - Dalmatian ham
60 kn - risotto "frutti de mare"
120 kn - spaghetti with lobster

Mark, As usual a fantastic report! This one is getting printed out for future following to the tee! I hope you'll post your pictures on VT.

Thanks for the great report; I'm printing it out as well.

We are going to Croatia in November and I am so excited! Between you, Grasshopper and Crazymina I know I will have a good plan. We're spending a week in Dubrovnik and it looks like Hvar for the extra days.

Now to put in a request for nice weather....

Mark, I have a question about Prosec. Is it like Italian Prosecco, which I love? Do the different colors change the taste? Is there a certain brand that you like more than others?
Thanks again for the valuable information about Hvar.

Judi - Prosec is more like a sherry than prosecco (which I believe is either a frizzante or spumanti, right? ) I guessing it's a fortified wine of some sort.