How much time in Dingle/Kenmare?
Mar 30th, 2009, 08:20 PM
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How much time in Dingle/Kenmare?
Hello everyone! I'm getting very excited for my trip to Ireland at the end of May with my husband. I''m an advance planner type person, so I figured out a route and booked B and Bs, but after reading more I'm thinking maybe of shifting some nights around. Over a total of 11 nights we will be staying in Galway (2), Doolin (2), Dingle (2), Kenmare (3), Kinsale (1), Ennis (1-just bc of flying out the next morning) - we are flying in and out of Shannon.
Any comments are welcome but I'm wondering whether to do 3 nights in Dingle and 2 in Kenmare instead.
Dingle sounds lovely, but I figured in two days we could cover the drive around the peninsula (sleigh head), explore the town, and see Fungie the dolphin....In Kenmare it seemed like there was more to do - Ring of Kerry (maybe can actually skip that?? so much disagreement on that point), Gap of Dunloe, Muckross House and ross Castle, National Park, etc. Also, one thing to keep in mind is I've promised my husband we'll play golf somewhere along the way, so I need time for that too aaah!
Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Any comments are welcome but I'm wondering whether to do 3 nights in Dingle and 2 in Kenmare instead.
Dingle sounds lovely, but I figured in two days we could cover the drive around the peninsula (sleigh head), explore the town, and see Fungie the dolphin....In Kenmare it seemed like there was more to do - Ring of Kerry (maybe can actually skip that?? so much disagreement on that point), Gap of Dunloe, Muckross House and ross Castle, National Park, etc. Also, one thing to keep in mind is I've promised my husband we'll play golf somewhere along the way, so I need time for that too aaah!
Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Mar 31st, 2009, 08:46 AM
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sharbear:
A kindred spirit: another advance planner!
It might depend on how long you anticipate the trip from Galway to Dingle will take -- are you planning to get up early and drive straight there, which means that you'll have plenty of time to explore the town that day and do the Slea Head Drive the next day?
Or do you plan a slower paced drive through Co. Clare, going through the Burrens, gazing at the Cliffs of Moher, and taking the Tarbert ferry? If so, you won't have much time in Dingle that day. In that case you might want a third night in Dingle, so that you have two full days there. Then you would set out first thing the following morning towards Kenmare and could stop at some of the Killarney sights (Muckross, Ross Castle) en route.
OR you could leave the reservations "as is" but figure you'll spend part of the third day in Dingle, driving to Kenmare in the afternoon. That, in fact, may give you more flexibility to decide (on the spot) when you're ready to move on to Kenmare?
A kindred spirit: another advance planner!
It might depend on how long you anticipate the trip from Galway to Dingle will take -- are you planning to get up early and drive straight there, which means that you'll have plenty of time to explore the town that day and do the Slea Head Drive the next day?
Or do you plan a slower paced drive through Co. Clare, going through the Burrens, gazing at the Cliffs of Moher, and taking the Tarbert ferry? If so, you won't have much time in Dingle that day. In that case you might want a third night in Dingle, so that you have two full days there. Then you would set out first thing the following morning towards Kenmare and could stop at some of the Killarney sights (Muckross, Ross Castle) en route.
OR you could leave the reservations "as is" but figure you'll spend part of the third day in Dingle, driving to Kenmare in the afternoon. That, in fact, may give you more flexibility to decide (on the spot) when you're ready to move on to Kenmare?
Mar 31st, 2009, 08:55 AM
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Planners of the world unite!
Is there something in particular you want to see in Kinsale? I ask because it looks like it's pretty out of the way from the rest of the places you plan to visit, especially if you're only doing one night there. I've never visited Kinsale, but personally, with your itinerary I might take that night and add it to Dingle, and then you'd be even (and have much less driving).
Is there something in particular you want to see in Kinsale? I ask because it looks like it's pretty out of the way from the rest of the places you plan to visit, especially if you're only doing one night there. I've never visited Kinsale, but personally, with your itinerary I might take that night and add it to Dingle, and then you'd be even (and have much less driving).
Mar 31st, 2009, 09:03 AM
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We were in Ireland this past September for 16 days - still reminiscing with happy sighs! so - your dilemma is a happy one!
not quite your question, but: We went to Kinsale for one night, so the two husbands could play Old Head. Frankly, given the rep I'd heard for gourmet cuisine and of course the golf course, I was surpised and disappointed in the town (ah, sheesh, people will get mad at me for that!) but: we'd been so many lovely spots - the town was a bit more run down than I'd expected, and it's certainly out of the way (looks like it will be a deliberate zig zag for your trip also) that unless that's the golf you're promising your husband, you might consider IMHO dropping that day to pick up another elsewhere. (they did LOVE playing that course - but if you're heading for that, do book tee time ahead, for sure).
As a group, we loved Dingle - had two nights there (so 1/2 day, full day, half day) - didn't do the Fungie trip, but the town is so darn delightful! And - my husband counted the little Dingle golf course as a favorite! (they'd also played Lahinch & he'd played Druid's Glen and up in County Meath over on the east coast) He's a bit of a frugal soul, frankly, so the lower greens fees, the delightful people, a nice course, and the stunning views all made this a casual, fun time for him.
We had two of our best dinners in Dingle also: Chart House -absolutely amazingly good, right on the harbor, beautiful atmosphere; and then Out of the Blue - your basic adorable "hole in the wall", also right on the harbor - written up in the guide book as "if the cook doesn't like the selection of fish that day, they don't open" (like that's gonna happen!)
Out of the 16 days, I can only say: my husband wants to go back to Dingle at some point for a full week - he loved the mood there so much. It was my second trip to Ireland, hitting Dingle both times, and I'd agree also.
Hope that helps!
not quite your question, but: We went to Kinsale for one night, so the two husbands could play Old Head. Frankly, given the rep I'd heard for gourmet cuisine and of course the golf course, I was surpised and disappointed in the town (ah, sheesh, people will get mad at me for that!) but: we'd been so many lovely spots - the town was a bit more run down than I'd expected, and it's certainly out of the way (looks like it will be a deliberate zig zag for your trip also) that unless that's the golf you're promising your husband, you might consider IMHO dropping that day to pick up another elsewhere. (they did LOVE playing that course - but if you're heading for that, do book tee time ahead, for sure).
As a group, we loved Dingle - had two nights there (so 1/2 day, full day, half day) - didn't do the Fungie trip, but the town is so darn delightful! And - my husband counted the little Dingle golf course as a favorite! (they'd also played Lahinch & he'd played Druid's Glen and up in County Meath over on the east coast) He's a bit of a frugal soul, frankly, so the lower greens fees, the delightful people, a nice course, and the stunning views all made this a casual, fun time for him.
We had two of our best dinners in Dingle also: Chart House -absolutely amazingly good, right on the harbor, beautiful atmosphere; and then Out of the Blue - your basic adorable "hole in the wall", also right on the harbor - written up in the guide book as "if the cook doesn't like the selection of fish that day, they don't open" (like that's gonna happen!)
Out of the 16 days, I can only say: my husband wants to go back to Dingle at some point for a full week - he loved the mood there so much. It was my second trip to Ireland, hitting Dingle both times, and I'd agree also.
Hope that helps!
Mar 31st, 2009, 11:41 AM
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Thanks for the great replies!
Skibumette - We'll actually be doing the cliffs of mohr/Burren stuff when we drive from Galway to Doolin (if that makes sense?), and since the main thing we want to do in Doolin is go to the Aran islands (and listen to music in pubs), we should be able to be in Dingle pretty early the day we drive there.
Jent103 - We wanted go to Kinsale because of its gourmet reputation - we are kind of foodies, not in the stuffy sense I hope but just that we love good food, and had heard of great stuff in Kinsale, but I'm thinking that it's not really worth the detour if it's not also a cute town - because those are what we really love (and we'd only have a few meals there anyway..)
Jo_Ann - My husband is also a frugal soul and sounds very much like yours! It seems like there is good golf (or good enough for him at any rate) almost everywhere we're going to be...but I like the idea of not moving around as much so we can squeeze in some golf without giving up sites I want to see (as opposed to spending more time driving). I appreciate very much your insights about Dingle!
I'm still undecided...
Keep 'em coming.....thanks!
Skibumette - We'll actually be doing the cliffs of mohr/Burren stuff when we drive from Galway to Doolin (if that makes sense?), and since the main thing we want to do in Doolin is go to the Aran islands (and listen to music in pubs), we should be able to be in Dingle pretty early the day we drive there.
Jent103 - We wanted go to Kinsale because of its gourmet reputation - we are kind of foodies, not in the stuffy sense I hope but just that we love good food, and had heard of great stuff in Kinsale, but I'm thinking that it's not really worth the detour if it's not also a cute town - because those are what we really love (and we'd only have a few meals there anyway..)
Jo_Ann - My husband is also a frugal soul and sounds very much like yours! It seems like there is good golf (or good enough for him at any rate) almost everywhere we're going to be...but I like the idea of not moving around as much so we can squeeze in some golf without giving up sites I want to see (as opposed to spending more time driving). I appreciate very much your insights about Dingle!
I'm still undecided...
Keep 'em coming.....thanks!
Mar 31st, 2009, 11:54 AM
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Well, here's my thought on Kinsale. If you left Killarney (or Kenmare) in the morning, you *might* get to Kinsale in time for lunch. You'd have a good dinner, and then breakfast before driving awhile to get to Ennis. (In case this is your first trip, driving in Ireland always takes longer than you'd think.) For me, it would not be worth it to drive that far out of the way basically to eat dinner. There are some restaurants in Dingle that are supposed to be very good, as jo_ann mentioned, and I'm sure there are other good restaurants in the other towns you plan to visit. I actually had very, very good plaice and chips at Cruise's pub in Ennis - maybe not a "foodie meal," but it was dang good!
Anyway, if it were my trip, I'd leave Kinsale for another time and focus on the west.
Anyway, if it were my trip, I'd leave Kinsale for another time and focus on the west.
Mar 31st, 2009, 12:01 PM
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Jent103 - we also love pub food - no snobbiness here just want the food to taste good - we had no recs yet for dinner in Ennis, so we will have to check out Cruise's pub. Especially bc my husband is obsessed with fish n'chips (That's what plaice is right??) I think I'm about convinced to skip Kinsale...and then do 3 days Dingle/3 days Kenmare...
You guys have no idea how helpful you all are!
You guys have no idea how helpful you all are!
Mar 31st, 2009, 12:13 PM
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Haha. Yep, plaice is fish (probably a specific kind)... I just figured if you were semi-foodies you might prefer the slightly fancier name. 
I was there with a friend; we actually ate at Cruise's two nights. (We were at the end of a two-week trip, and honestly, a bit sick of figuring out where to eat all the time!) My friend got the fish and chips both nights. I got the Irish stew the first night, which was also great, but hers looked so good that I got it the second. Cruise's also has music every night, I believe.
We also ate at Jam in Kenmare for lunch one day - great lunch/cafe sort of place. Murphy's pub in Dingle also had a pretty good soup dinner, if I remember correctly. We were on a tight budget, so those are all the meals I can actually recommend - the rest were not memorable at best, due to our limited resources! Although if you haven't booked lodging for Dingle yet, I'd definitely see if Emlagh Lodge is available. Maggie's breakfasts were great, especially the yoghurt. Mmm.
I was there with a friend; we actually ate at Cruise's two nights. (We were at the end of a two-week trip, and honestly, a bit sick of figuring out where to eat all the time!) My friend got the fish and chips both nights. I got the Irish stew the first night, which was also great, but hers looked so good that I got it the second. Cruise's also has music every night, I believe.We also ate at Jam in Kenmare for lunch one day - great lunch/cafe sort of place. Murphy's pub in Dingle also had a pretty good soup dinner, if I remember correctly. We were on a tight budget, so those are all the meals I can actually recommend - the rest were not memorable at best, due to our limited resources! Although if you haven't booked lodging for Dingle yet, I'd definitely see if Emlagh Lodge is available. Maggie's breakfasts were great, especially the yoghurt. Mmm.
Mar 31st, 2009, 12:17 PM
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sharbear - just in case it's helpful, here's a link to my trip report. We went to the UK first, so scroll down to Ireland. We stayed two nights each in Killarney, Dingle and Ennis.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...lus-philly.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...lus-philly.cfm
Mar 31st, 2009, 12:44 PM
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Well... I am in favor of spending more time in fewer places, rather than trying to cover too much in too little time. That being said, Kinsale is our favorite town in Ireland. IMHO it is a charming, historic seaside town with great restaurants. The drive from Kenmare is lovely.
However, though Old Head is one of the most scenic golf courses in Ireland, it is also one of the most expensive. An alternate choice for a well known links course would be Waterville, which is not far from Kenmare.
Whatever your choices, you can't beat the southwest of Irelend -- Enjoy!
However, though Old Head is one of the most scenic golf courses in Ireland, it is also one of the most expensive. An alternate choice for a well known links course would be Waterville, which is not far from Kenmare.
Whatever your choices, you can't beat the southwest of Irelend -- Enjoy!
Mar 31st, 2009, 01:58 PM
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Two thoughts:
You mentioned doing the Aran Islands from Doolin; the ferry trips from there are reportedly more prone to weather cancellations. You might want to do the Aran trip from Rosseveal, just outside of Galway? It's supposed to be less weather-dependent? Would that mean an extra night in Galway? or a late afternoon drive to Doolin??
If you've already done the Aran Islands, it would free up some Doolin time for golf? Lahinch Old Course is pricey, Doonbeg even worse -- but the Lahinch Castle course is more reasonable and NEDSIRELAND has recommended the 9-hole course at Spanish Point on several threads. (My DH and SIL want to play while we're in this area, and one of these two courses may be more in keeping with their handicaps?)
You mentioned doing the Aran Islands from Doolin; the ferry trips from there are reportedly more prone to weather cancellations. You might want to do the Aran trip from Rosseveal, just outside of Galway? It's supposed to be less weather-dependent? Would that mean an extra night in Galway? or a late afternoon drive to Doolin??
If you've already done the Aran Islands, it would free up some Doolin time for golf? Lahinch Old Course is pricey, Doonbeg even worse -- but the Lahinch Castle course is more reasonable and NEDSIRELAND has recommended the 9-hole course at Spanish Point on several threads. (My DH and SIL want to play while we're in this area, and one of these two courses may be more in keeping with their handicaps?)
Mar 31st, 2009, 04:30 PM
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Our overall favorite town in Ireland was Kenmare hands down. Only stayed there one night, and would have rather stayed one in Kinsale and 2 in Kenmare. Dingle was second. But then, we didn't golf, and that may influence your decision!
Apr 1st, 2009, 08:54 AM
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Thanks for your thoughts everyone! I was able to change our B and B reservations, and have decided to cut out Kinsale and do 3 nights Dingle/3 nights Kenmare (Colbeck - we'll have to get to Kinsale another time!)
Skibumette - That's very interesting about the Aran islands ferry, I did not know that. I don't really want to spend more nights in Galway, but I thought we'd spend our first day when we're jet lagged just exploring the town, and the second day really wanted to take a day trip to Conemmara and see the area of "Quiet Man"....I guess we could do the Aran Islands trip the next day and like you said do the drive to Doolin late in the day - how long does the trip to the Aran islands take overall? That would mean not doing the cliffs of mohr/burren on the drive probably, but we could do that the next day then I suppose! Thanks so much for the golf suggestions too - I like to play, but can only handle 9 holes usually so that would be perfect.
Jent103 - I loved your trip report! Thanks so much for the link. I think I'll be making my husband do most of the driving - but kudos to you for handling it very well.
Skibumette - That's very interesting about the Aran islands ferry, I did not know that. I don't really want to spend more nights in Galway, but I thought we'd spend our first day when we're jet lagged just exploring the town, and the second day really wanted to take a day trip to Conemmara and see the area of "Quiet Man"....I guess we could do the Aran Islands trip the next day and like you said do the drive to Doolin late in the day - how long does the trip to the Aran islands take overall? That would mean not doing the cliffs of mohr/burren on the drive probably, but we could do that the next day then I suppose! Thanks so much for the golf suggestions too - I like to play, but can only handle 9 holes usually so that would be perfect.
Jent103 - I loved your trip report! Thanks so much for the link. I think I'll be making my husband do most of the driving - but kudos to you for handling it very well.
Apr 1st, 2009, 08:25 PM
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In May it looks like there are ferries to Innismore departing at 10:30 AM and 1:00 PM -- return ferries at 12:00 and 5:00 PM. Trip takes about 40 minutes each way. Presumably you'd go over at 10:30 and return at 5:00? You can check it out at www.aranislandferries.com. It's also possible to fly over (10 minutes) either one way or both: www.aerarannislands.ie
Apr 2nd, 2009, 06:53 AM
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Now you've got me wondering if I should swing through part of Connemara on my way from Sligo to Ballyvaughan, instead of "zipping" down the N17. Given that I've only got 2-1/2 days (3 nights) in Ballyvaughan and that includes Burren hike, golf for the guys, Cliffs of Moher + possible boat cruise under the Cliffs? -- that might mean skipping Aran Islands? It might be one of those decisions that depends on the weather (even if it is July)?
Apr 2nd, 2009, 10:31 AM
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Yes I suppose with all my planning, weather is a huge factor...especially with something like the Aran islands, but even with everything really! I guess I"ll have to be flexible - not one of my best traits...
Apr 2nd, 2009, 02:40 PM
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It is much more comfortable to have the schedule all figured out -- even if you don't stick to it! <grin> Well, I always believe that you should leave at least one thing undone or one place unvisited every place you go, so that you have a reason to return!
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