how many nights in Edinburgh (November)
Jul 5th, 2006, 04:04 PM
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how many nights in Edinburgh (November)
We'll be in the UK for 10 nights in early November.
We're planning on spending a couple of nights in London on both ends of the trip (we fly in and out of London), which leaves 5 or 6 nights.
We plan to spend at least 3 nights in Edinburgh, which is the one other place we know we want to go.
We don't want to be run ragged, and prefer absorbing a city's local charms over constant sightseeing.
So, as to our quandry: would it be better to stay in Edinburgh for 5 nights and take a day trip (or two), or would it be better to spend 3 nights in Edinburgh and 2 or 3 nights somewhere else?
We're assuming that a November trip isn't the time to do a lot of Scottish/English countryside exploration (which is what appeals to us about the day trip idea; if the weather is pleasent venture out, if not stick to indoor activities), but perhaps we assume wrong?
Thanks.
Jim
We're planning on spending a couple of nights in London on both ends of the trip (we fly in and out of London), which leaves 5 or 6 nights.
We plan to spend at least 3 nights in Edinburgh, which is the one other place we know we want to go.
We don't want to be run ragged, and prefer absorbing a city's local charms over constant sightseeing.
So, as to our quandry: would it be better to stay in Edinburgh for 5 nights and take a day trip (or two), or would it be better to spend 3 nights in Edinburgh and 2 or 3 nights somewhere else?
We're assuming that a November trip isn't the time to do a lot of Scottish/English countryside exploration (which is what appeals to us about the day trip idea; if the weather is pleasent venture out, if not stick to indoor activities), but perhaps we assume wrong?
Thanks.
Jim
Jul 5th, 2006, 04:09 PM
#2
Well a couple of days isn't long enough - especially in Nov - to do much exploring around Scotland.
What I would do is 3 nights in Edinburgh and 2 nights in York. London/York/Edinburgh would be a great trip.
What I would do is 3 nights in Edinburgh and 2 nights in York. London/York/Edinburgh would be a great trip.
Jul 5th, 2006, 07:21 PM
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I think three nights is plenty of time. I got to Edinburgh late on a Friday, and left at about 6 on a Sunday (in November, I think) and had a good amount of time there. I could have used maybe another 1/2 day or so to explore a couple museums I missed, but Edinburgh is quite compact and the sites are easy to see and get to (just walk from one end of the Mile to the other).
Jul 5th, 2006, 07:22 PM
#6
Edinburgh is a terrific city - but it is also compact - you can really see a LOT of it in 3 days w/o rushing about.
But York is even smaller and the "touristy bit" is even more compact.
So if you felt 3 days in Edinburgh isn't enough you could do 4 days there and 1.5 days/1 night in York.
I'd probably opt for 3 edinburgh/2 york because I personally try to avoid one night stays. Too much packing/checking in/checking out and it really eats into your time.
But York is even smaller and the "touristy bit" is even more compact.
So if you felt 3 days in Edinburgh isn't enough you could do 4 days there and 1.5 days/1 night in York.
I'd probably opt for 3 edinburgh/2 york because I personally try to avoid one night stays. Too much packing/checking in/checking out and it really eats into your time.
Jul 6th, 2006, 04:15 AM
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We recently had 5 nights in Edinburgh and could have stayed longer but I say that about everywhere we go! I agree that you can see a lot in a few days in Edinburgh and would encourage you to say somewhere very central to be able to walk everywhere. We did have the advantage of the very long days of course which you will not in Nov. I would break it up 3/2 with York if it were me - if you are set on going north that is.
Jul 6th, 2006, 08:12 AM
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Thanks for the responses everyone.
We may opt for 4 nights in Edinburgh and 2 in York (w/2 nights in London on each end of the trip). That would allow for a day trip to Glasgow, or perhaps a smaller town if the weather cooperates.
We're aware of the limited daylight (we'll be in Edinburgh around 11/6-11/10), so more time in the pubs, restaurants, theaters, etc.
Jim
We may opt for 4 nights in Edinburgh and 2 in York (w/2 nights in London on each end of the trip). That would allow for a day trip to Glasgow, or perhaps a smaller town if the weather cooperates.
We're aware of the limited daylight (we'll be in Edinburgh around 11/6-11/10), so more time in the pubs, restaurants, theaters, etc.
Jim
Jul 7th, 2006, 03:26 PM
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What do you folks think about 3 nights in Edinburgh and 2 nights in Glasgow (instead of York)? As i said, we're more interested in getting a sense of place (and culture) than in sightseeing per se.
York sounds nice, but I'm thinking maybe we should save it for another trip (nicer time of year) so we can explore the countryside around there.
York sounds nice, but I'm thinking maybe we should save it for another trip (nicer time of year) so we can explore the countryside around there.
Jul 10th, 2006, 03:24 AM
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Hi Jim
RESTAURANTS
Here are some of my favourites places to eat in Edinburgh.
If you want gourmet, there are two restaurants with one Michelin star. Martin Wishart's in Leith is fantastic, especially if you have the six course tasting menu (which will all be cooked by the man himself). It's very high class but friendly and unstuffy. Book 2-3 months in advance for dinner; probably less for lunch but I've not tried.
The other starred restaurant is Number One in the Balmoral : food nothing special IMO, ambience is more formal & traditional.
For Italian, La Partenope on Dalry Road is wonderful. The chef-proprietor & his food are Neapolitan & it's the best Italian food (especially seafood) I've had outside southern Italy. Unusually for an Italian restaurant, in the UK at any rate, even the desserts are home made & very good. They also have a very interesting list of southern Italian wines largely based on little known grape varieties. The ambience is very relaxed.
La Garrigue on Jeffrey Street is a small French restaurant specialising in cooking of the Languedoc where the chef-proprietor is from, as are all the wines. The food & the chef are both lovely and the ambience is correct but relaxed. If you sit near the window there is a view of Calton Hill & its monuments.
Both Black Bo's and David Bann's do very interesting & innovative vegetarian cusine. BB's is very casual, studenty even, & DB's is smart casual & v. modern . Both v. reasonably priced.
Centotre on George Street is a busy, buzzy Italian caffe-bar offering everything from a coffee to the full works. Particularly good pizza & pasta.
If you want 'modern Scottish', Stac Polly on Grindlay Street used to be good, but I recently read a poor review of it by a writer I respect.
When we have vistors we usually take them for Sunday lunch in Leith (the old docks area). There are lots of nice waterfront places, notably the Shore, where you can eat in the restaurant (non-smoking) or in the pub; the Waterfront and Skipper's. All of these are particularly good for fish but do other things too. I used to think Fisher's in Leith was the best for fish but had a very disappointing experience there recently : I haven't tried Fisher's in the City for some time so won't judge it.
I've never had good fish & chips in Edinburgh.
If you want recommendations for any other specific types of cuisine, please ask.
PUBS
There are lots of good pubs ! Do you know yet where you'll be staying ?
THEATRE
For theatre & much more, the best thing is to buy 'The List', the fortnightly listings magazine covering Edinburgh & Glasgow, when you arrive. My favourite theatre is the Traverse which is mainly new writing. mainly Scottish, & also has a good cafe-bar. The autumn programme won't be out until after the festivals, though - watch www.traverse.co.uk. The Lyceum is a bit more trad but always good, & their 2006-7 programme is out now - see www.lyceum.org.uk. 'Mary Stuart' is on until 18th Nov. The Fesival & King's Theaters (www.eft.co.uk) are both receiving houses and have some shows up now but will probably add more later. The Playhouse which doesn't seem to have its own website is also a receiving theatre, mainly of old warhouse blockbuster West End musicals - ditto.
It's also quite feasible to go to Glasgow for the evening which we do quite frequently - the most interesting theateres there IMO are the Citizens, the Arches & the Tron. The Theatre Royal & King's have the usually rather tired old touring big stuff.
Also see Scottish Opera's programme (www.scottishopera.org.uk) for performances in both cities.
RESTAURANTS
Here are some of my favourites places to eat in Edinburgh.
If you want gourmet, there are two restaurants with one Michelin star. Martin Wishart's in Leith is fantastic, especially if you have the six course tasting menu (which will all be cooked by the man himself). It's very high class but friendly and unstuffy. Book 2-3 months in advance for dinner; probably less for lunch but I've not tried.
The other starred restaurant is Number One in the Balmoral : food nothing special IMO, ambience is more formal & traditional.
For Italian, La Partenope on Dalry Road is wonderful. The chef-proprietor & his food are Neapolitan & it's the best Italian food (especially seafood) I've had outside southern Italy. Unusually for an Italian restaurant, in the UK at any rate, even the desserts are home made & very good. They also have a very interesting list of southern Italian wines largely based on little known grape varieties. The ambience is very relaxed.
La Garrigue on Jeffrey Street is a small French restaurant specialising in cooking of the Languedoc where the chef-proprietor is from, as are all the wines. The food & the chef are both lovely and the ambience is correct but relaxed. If you sit near the window there is a view of Calton Hill & its monuments.
Both Black Bo's and David Bann's do very interesting & innovative vegetarian cusine. BB's is very casual, studenty even, & DB's is smart casual & v. modern . Both v. reasonably priced.
Centotre on George Street is a busy, buzzy Italian caffe-bar offering everything from a coffee to the full works. Particularly good pizza & pasta.
If you want 'modern Scottish', Stac Polly on Grindlay Street used to be good, but I recently read a poor review of it by a writer I respect.
When we have vistors we usually take them for Sunday lunch in Leith (the old docks area). There are lots of nice waterfront places, notably the Shore, where you can eat in the restaurant (non-smoking) or in the pub; the Waterfront and Skipper's. All of these are particularly good for fish but do other things too. I used to think Fisher's in Leith was the best for fish but had a very disappointing experience there recently : I haven't tried Fisher's in the City for some time so won't judge it.
I've never had good fish & chips in Edinburgh.
If you want recommendations for any other specific types of cuisine, please ask.
PUBS
There are lots of good pubs ! Do you know yet where you'll be staying ?
THEATRE
For theatre & much more, the best thing is to buy 'The List', the fortnightly listings magazine covering Edinburgh & Glasgow, when you arrive. My favourite theatre is the Traverse which is mainly new writing. mainly Scottish, & also has a good cafe-bar. The autumn programme won't be out until after the festivals, though - watch www.traverse.co.uk. The Lyceum is a bit more trad but always good, & their 2006-7 programme is out now - see www.lyceum.org.uk. 'Mary Stuart' is on until 18th Nov. The Fesival & King's Theaters (www.eft.co.uk) are both receiving houses and have some shows up now but will probably add more later. The Playhouse which doesn't seem to have its own website is also a receiving theatre, mainly of old warhouse blockbuster West End musicals - ditto.
It's also quite feasible to go to Glasgow for the evening which we do quite frequently - the most interesting theateres there IMO are the Citizens, the Arches & the Tron. The Theatre Royal & King's have the usually rather tired old touring big stuff.
Also see Scottish Opera's programme (www.scottishopera.org.uk) for performances in both cities.
Jul 10th, 2006, 03:46 AM
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Jul 11th, 2006, 09:25 AM
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Wow, thanks for the detailed suggestions. We're not sure where we're staying yet (have to nail down the dates first), but a friend has recommended Parliment House, which is near St. James Centre.
So it sounds like the train to Glasgow is frequent enough (and runs late enough) that we'll probably not split our time between those two cities.
So we're still honing in on a good place to spend our two remaining nights. Possibly York. Possibly Cambridge. Possibly on the road between Edinburgh and London (autumn in the lake country??).
Thanks again.
Jim
So it sounds like the train to Glasgow is frequent enough (and runs late enough) that we'll probably not split our time between those two cities.
So we're still honing in on a good place to spend our two remaining nights. Possibly York. Possibly Cambridge. Possibly on the road between Edinburgh and London (autumn in the lake country??).
Thanks again.
Jim
Jul 22nd, 2006, 03:16 AM
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Whether you move your bags or not, I think the extra two days in Glasgow is a good idea. Scotland is a country with many differnt cultures, and, believe me, Glasgow and Edinburgh are a lot more than 40 miles apart.
I don't "do" fish myslf, but I'm a great fan of the Alba D'Oro chippy in Henderson Row.
As to pubs, in your general vicinity you've got Bennets, the Barony, and the Cafe Royal.
I like Kay's Bar at the other end of the New Town; lots of people go to the Oxford for its Ian Rankin connections, and for sheer atmosphere and authenticity you should visit the Diggers.
Both the Old Chain Pier and teh Starbank in Newhaven are top places too; and the Golden Promise does good beer.
Second the recommendation of The List
I don't "do" fish myslf, but I'm a great fan of the Alba D'Oro chippy in Henderson Row.
As to pubs, in your general vicinity you've got Bennets, the Barony, and the Cafe Royal.
I like Kay's Bar at the other end of the New Town; lots of people go to the Oxford for its Ian Rankin connections, and for sheer atmosphere and authenticity you should visit the Diggers.
Both the Old Chain Pier and teh Starbank in Newhaven are top places too; and the Golden Promise does good beer.
Second the recommendation of The List
Jul 22nd, 2006, 11:12 AM
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Hey Thanks Sheila (and thanks again Caroline).
We're definitely going to have to come back when we have more than 5/6 nights to spend in Scotland to explore the country, but spending some time in both Glasgow and Edinburgh sounds like a good way to dip our toe in the water (especially considering it'll be November).
We may just keep the trip to the big cities this time around. We really want to explore Yorkshire someday, but not in November (and not for just an afternoon). So we'll probably skip York because just being in the town without having time to explore the countryside would be pretty frustrating.
Jim
We're definitely going to have to come back when we have more than 5/6 nights to spend in Scotland to explore the country, but spending some time in both Glasgow and Edinburgh sounds like a good way to dip our toe in the water (especially considering it'll be November).
We may just keep the trip to the big cities this time around. We really want to explore Yorkshire someday, but not in November (and not for just an afternoon). So we'll probably skip York because just being in the town without having time to explore the countryside would be pretty frustrating.
Jim
