Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Honoring my Father, Belgium, Amsterdam, London and TWO GTGs

Search

Honoring my Father, Belgium, Amsterdam, London and TWO GTGs

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 5th, 2015, 12:07 AM
  #41  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,816
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
<B>April 28-30: Not one but two GTGs, Sargent, A garden at the top of the world . . .</B>

<B>Tues:</B> My BA flight to LGW is at 11:55 -- and we land at 10:50 - a bit of time travel I had pre-pruchased a GEX ticket to Victoria and then walked the short way to B&B Belgravia in Ebury Street. I've stayed here a couple of times over the years -- last time was in 2012 for the Jubilee. It is a terrific location half way between Victoria and Sloane Sq. My room last time was very modern -- small-ish but very creative use of space so it seemed roomy. This time I am in their Annex about 5 doors down the road where they have studios. Really just bedrooms w/ a microwave and small fridge. In the main bldg they to full cooked breakfasts but in the annex they place continental b'fast things in the fridge/kitchenette - juice, fruit, bread, croissants, cheese, etc. (I'm here 4 nights and then move to the main bldg for my last two nights)

I'm too early to get in the room so I leave my bag and head down Ebury Street to William Curley - my favorite chocolate shop. There may be better -- but I haven't tried them <i>all</i> . . . yet. I picked up truffles for the GTG later this evening. Then back to the B&B and they had taken my bag up to the room and I finished checking in. Unpacked and washed out a few things and on my way out around 5PM.

There is a GTG planned for 6:30 at the Golden Fleece in Queen Street in the St Paul's/Mansion House/Bank area. My Oyster doesn't work at Victoria (not sure what I would have done in most stations where they're closing the ticket windows . . . ) Last week I topped up my Oyster at LHR w/ a little PAYG and a 7 days travelcard to start today. But apparently the 3 trips I took last Monday exceeded the amount of PAYG (I guess I didn't notice the neg balance and it did let me through the gate) So my 7 day travelcard is still loaded but the system's brain won't let me use it til the PAYG is paid. The agent was really nice and straightened everything out in no time. and I'm finally off.

Went to St Paul's and shopped some in One New Change - then walked the few blocks to the Golden Fleece to meet up w/ jamikins, BikerScott, PatrickLondon, WelltraveledBrit, and Mr. WelltraveledBrit. Had a GREAT time. We talked (and talked and TALKED) til about 10:30 -- and probably could have been talking yet Lots of fun and the food and drinks were good too.

<B>Wed.:</B> This morning I have tix to the Sargent Exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery. The Exhibition was really wonderful -- and not crammed beyond reason like the Late Rembrandt. I could actually <i>see</i> most of the works. Predominately portraits of course - There are portraits of Monet and Robert Louis Stevenson and Edwin Booth and Rodin and Henry James and Ellen Tracy as Lady MacBeth and soooooo many others . . . And the wonderful Carnation Lily Lily Rose (I've seen it many times at the Tate but hanging here it seems larger and even more luminous) The man was brilliant.

Northie and Mr. Northie at first thought they might join last night's GTG, but realized they'd be in the throes of serious jet lag about then. So the three of us make plans to meet for lunch at the Portrait Restaurant. We had a lovely time and we celebrated the Northie's anniversary.

After we parted I went to Fortnum & Mason to buy this trip's enamel box but their selection was pretty limited (every visit I buy a Halcyon Days box usually at F&M or Harrods). So I walked over to the Halcyon Days shop in Brook Street and found two which I had shipped.

I walked around for a while through Mayfair and Shepherd's Market and had a drink in the Coburg Bar at the Connaught. I wasn't hungry but knew once I hit my room I'd be in for the night so I stopped at the Cafe Rouge in the little shopping center above Victoria station. Had onion soup and pate which was just right.

<B>Thurs:</B> Got a late-ish start this morning but eventually got in gear and went to Leadenhall Market for shopping - mostly of the window variety - and a late morning tea/pastry. I have a late lunch booking at the Fenchurch Seafood Bar & Grill - the posh restaurant at the top of the 'Walkie Talkie bldg' above the Sky Garden. It is weird -- the views from the public gallery/garden are terrific -- but the views from the expensive restaurant really aren't. A few tables have views towards the BT Tower and across London but mostly the views are of the of the underside of slopped ceiling of the Garden. The food however was very good. I had caviar to start -- NOT the £65 Beluga And a lamb main. After spending nearly 2 hours over lunch, I wandered around the Sky Garden for a bit. It is a curiosity, and the views are glorious . . . but as gardens go it is pretty meh. And any more there are so many great viewpoints across London maybe not worth the prebooking required to get up to the garden. be a way to

Next it is on to the Barbican where I have tix for the RSC/English Touring Theatre production of Its a Mad World My Masters. This is an absolutely hysterical Jacobean farce by Thomas Middleton which has been set in 1950's Soho. Sounds incompatible -- but it works and then some. I've seldom had so much fun at the theater -- just a brilliant/funny production.

<B>Next: Imperial War Museum, Champagne at the Palace, the stunning McQueen exhibition at the V&A and Hay Fever/Felicity Kendal
janisj is offline  
Old Jun 5th, 2015, 04:16 AM
  #42  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
"My BA flight to LGW is at 11:55 -- and we land at 10:50 - a bit of time travel "

Well that really would be time travel! Think you meant you landed at 11:50 UK time...

Last edited by Moderator1; Jul 15th, 2020 at 05:28 PM. Reason: removed broken html
Gordon_R is offline  
Old Jun 5th, 2015, 09:23 AM
  #43  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,816
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
oops -- yes -- it WAS ver late last night when I posted
janisj is offline  
Old Jun 5th, 2015, 02:40 PM
  #44  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Janisj,
We did indeed talk and talk at the GTG! We also LOVED the fabulous chocolates you brought, thank you.

Incidentally Halcyon Day participated in London Craft Week in May. I didn't know the brand but your report rang a bell. Here was the event they had back in May, I'd looked into it but didn't go. It might be something you'd enjoy on another trip.
http://www.londoncraftweek.com/event....nxkFcEIT.dpbs

We also made it to the RSC production of It's a Mad World My Masters. I called them up to see of they had day tickets and headed down the the Barbican to pick them up when they said they still had some, around lunchtime. The tickets were something like ten quid, which seemed the deal of the century. I agree it was a terrific production, interesting, innovative and well updated. After the Ralph Feinnes production of Man and Superman at the National this was the best theatre we've seen this season.
welltraveledbrit is offline  
Old Jun 5th, 2015, 09:40 PM
  #45  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,816
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
May1-3 Imperial War Museum, Champagne at the Palace, the STUNNING McQueen exhibition at the V&A and Hay Fever/Felicity Kendal. (Fri. was supposed to be my last night in London) Sat. and Sun (bonus days).

I'll backtrack a bit here. I originally planned on flying home on Saturday May 2. That's what I thought I booked. That IS what I booked at the B&B. Then about 6 days before the trip I decided to book SuperShuttle from home to the airport and a limo from the airport/home . . . and pulled out the printouts of my booking on AA to double check the flight times. That is when I saw I had made a mistake and my return flight was on MONDAY (!) How the heck did that happen???? -- I have never ever goofed like that. (I always felt smug about threads titled something like "Wrong Dates on booking - Need help ASAP" Well, never again )

So after panicking a bit I checked the website and the B&B showed no availability I rang them up just to be sure before looking for another hotel for Sat/Sun. They just got a cancellation and hadn't updated the site yet. So yes they could accommodate me -- it meant having to move from the annex to the main bldg Sat morning and paying a higher room rate . . . but beggars can't be choosers. So that is how I ended up w/ two extra days in London.

FridayI have a 5:30 booking for an evening tour of Buckingham Palace. So I decide to go to the Imperial War Museum this morning and do some shopping in the afternoon. I haven't been in the WWI exhibit since it reopened (last Fall I tried but w/ all the WWI commemorations it was PACKED and I could not get a required timed ticket) . I've been to the museum several tikes so was really only going to concentrate on the WWI stuff. An amazing, thought provoking exhibit. Took me the best part of 2 hours just for the WWI halls.

No timed tix required this time. So at about 11:30 I took a break to get something to eat. Hardly anyone in the cafe - but they didn't have any of the hot lunch dishes out yet -- still basically morning tea/coffee things and some wrapped sandwiches. They suggested I come back in 15 or 20 minutes. Came back at 12:15 . . . and there is now a huge queue for the hot dishes -- like 50+ people standing in line and most of the tables occupied. No lunch at the museum

I finished up exploring the museum and took the tube to Charing Cross and walked up the Strand/Aldwych deciding where to eat. Ended up at the Delaunay where I had a really tasty Hungarian Goulash.

After some shopping (again more looking than buying) I headed to the Palace. The normal public opening is August/September every year when the Queen is typically at Balmoral. But in the last couple of years they have started limited small group tours for a couple of weeks in the Spring. There are two tours @ 5:00 and 5:30 covering the State Rooms including a couple not open in the summer and finishing with a glass of Champagne. My group had 16 people -- don't know what the limit is. Now - it <i>is</i> pretty expensive (I think it was £75 but can't find my invoice to be totally sure). But actually not too bad -- the small group makes the tour very personal and there is plenty of time to ask questions and really explore all the rooms. Plus the Champagne. Plus a glossy guidebook. Plus if you keep your ticket it is good for entry during the summer opening the same year. I will be in London in August . . . so I just might go back -- who knows. The tour took a full 2 hours.

After my big lunch I didn't really need dinner so stopped in Victoria station for a sandwich/chips/wine to take back to my room.

Saturday. Got up early and packed and left my suitcase in my room so the staff could move it to my new room later in the day.

I had tried to pre-book the Alexander McQueen blockbuster but there were no tix available during my whole stay. Then I learned they release 200 tickets each morning. So I took the tube to S. Kens just before the museum opens. Problem is -- when you take the tube/tunnel to the V&A -- there is no exit to the surface until the museum actually opens . . . and by the time you get around to the main entrance those who entered from Cromwell Road have streamed in and there are already 200+ queueing for McQueen tix. What to do? I could leave and try again tomorrow morning but come in the front entrance . . . OR . . . I could join the V&A and just walk into the exhibit (for free) no needing no stinking ticket > I go to London often enough, so why not. I paid my £59, got my temporary membership card, and sashayed straight into the the McQueen.

My goodness, what a STUNNING show!! Just brilliant. And except for a couple of tableau there were essentially no barriers -- you could get w/i inches of most of the garments and really see the construction/fabrics up close. I was there two hours and actually could have spent more time. There were examples from all of his phases from design school through to the 2010 Spring and Fall collections that were presented after his death. One space was just overwhelming -- basically a large cube nearly as tall as it was square with all four walls lined floor to ceiling w/ niches filled w/ gowns, accessories, video screens showing some of the same dresses on the catwalk . . . with benches in the middle of the room so you could sit as long as you wanted and try to absorb it all.

This is one show where you really want a comprehensive catalog. Unfortunately the V&A's version is a huge book covering his entire career - not this show specifically. This is essentially the same show that was presented eat MoMA in NY. And the V&A had the catalog from THAT show. Still a huge/HEAVY/coffee table book - but id is just color plates of the garments/accessories in the show. I got that one but it was so heavy I had them ship it. Then I had a late lunch in the V&A cafe, visited a couple of other galleries then back to the B&B to check into my new room in the other bldg..

Then headed out to Leicester Sq for TKTS - didn't find anything on offer that appealed so I walked a few feet from TKTS to the Scoff & Banter at the Radisson Edwardian. It was a lovely afternoon so I sat outdoors and had a glass of Prosecco while deciding what to do this evening. On spec I walked over to Duke of York's and was able to get a ticket for Hay Fever w/ Felicity Kendal. Got a great seat in the 3rd row almost center stage. Being a single is really useful sometimes.

The production got sort of so so reviews in the London press (Felicity K was praised but the theme of most of the reviews I saw was that the rest of the cast let her down). Perhaps they had improved a bit since the press preview but I thought it was very good -- Felicity K. is an old pro and can really chew the scenery (in a good way) She was very very good in the role. Hard to believe she is nearly 70 yo. The set was also a star of the show.

Had an Irish coffee in Covent Garden and then headed back to Ebury Street.

Next: Sunday - my last day in London

Last edited by Moderator1; Jul 15th, 2020 at 05:31 PM. Reason: removed broken html
janisj is offline  
Old Jun 5th, 2015, 09:42 PM
  #46  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,816
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
welltraveledbrit: Oh, that would have been terrific. I've not been in London during Craft Week -- I'll have to check for next year.
janisj is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 03:09 AM
  #47  
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes it was a lovely lunch with you janisj. We visited the Imperial War Museum on the bank holiday and spent at least 2 hours in the WW1 exhibition - very well done and easy to move around .
Sorry I missed the McQueen exhibition - maybe it might come to Oz - we do get a lot of V&A exhibitions here.
northie is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 05:27 AM
  #48  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
just found this jj - bmk to read later.
annhig is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 08:08 AM
  #49  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,816
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
Skimming back through I can't believe the number of typos -- but most are understandable -- or at least not TOO confusing

One that jumped out though was the price of the day tour to Keukenhof... I posted it was £95, I meant €95, - and both are wrong. it was €90

<B>Sunday May 3 - my last day in London</B>

Today was really lovely -- sunny w/ a light breeze. I didn't have any real plans since I wasn't actually supposed to be in London today . . .

Had a light breakfast some fruit, a poached egg, tea and juice and set out. I walked through Pimlico (my favorite neighborhood to rent flats but I haven't stayed there in about 4 or 5 years) to Tate Britain (been many times, most recently last Fall) - went in for just a few minutes to just visit some of my favorite Turners, then up Millbank and towards Westminster Abbey. Considered attending a service but it was so nice out I decided to stay outdoors and walk. Made my way back to the B&B and changed shoes and put on a lighter sweater and headed back out towards Sloane Square. Every time I'm in the store think that if I lived in London I'd spend a FORTUNE in Peter Jones. It is my favorite department store after maybe Liberty. But Liberty is more a special treat while Peter Jones is just about the perfect department store. High end lines, 'normal' stuff, helpful staff, nice cafe, decent prices -- love it. Almost bought a new spinner carry on to replace my current one - a brand I hadn't heard of before. Antler.

There was some of the neatest patio/terrace furniture - just loved it . . . But if I lived in London I doubt I could afford a place w/ a terrace or patio

Was going to eat lunch there but the salmon was out and it would be a 20+ minute wait so just had a glass of wine and explored the store some more. Did some shopping and window shopping around Sloane Square then ate at Cote. Cote is a pretty reliable chain and being in Sloane Square just feels more 'posh/upscale/non-chain-y'. Had a champagne cocktail, mixed olives to start and an asparagus/pea risotto. Then did some more shopping and headed back to the B&B as the stores were closing.

Decided to stay in this evening and pack, watch telly, relax. My flight isn't until noon tomorrow so I don't have to get up at the crack of dawn.

<B>Monday May 4:</B> The day before I was going to book justairports (I'd normally take the tube but being the Bank holiday I figured the traffic would be light and a car would be quicker) but the manager said they have a car service/driver they recommend -- and the price was about the same as justairports @ £30. JA would probably have been a couple of £ less but I went w/ their driver (note: <i>most</i> hotel-arranged transfers are much more expensive).

Even though I'm flying coach, AA had given me a day pass for the Admirals Club so I wanted to get to LHR a little earlier than normal to take advantage. And yes, there was very little traffic. No queue for check in and very short queue for security so I ended up w/ about 2 hours in the Lounge before they posted our gate. Did a little shopping - some small souvenirs for my pet sitter and a couple of friends and a travel wallet at Radley but mostly used the wifi and enjoyed the lounge.

AA moved me to premium economy (I only paid for coach so my second upgrade of the trip -- must be doing something right )

Totally uneventful flight except for a little turbulence over the upper midwest. Had 4.5 hours on the ground at LAX (Used my Global Entry for the first time and breezed through in minutes) and again used the Admirals Club - then on to SMF and in my front door just after 9PM . . .

And now I'm in to planning my trip in August to Edinburgh for the Tattoo, Glasgow for the museums, York - for York, and London -- well I DO need to use my V&A membership and free entry to the Palace after all
janisj is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 08:31 AM
  #50  
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the great trip report, Janis. When will you be in Scotland? Do you have time for a GTG?
jane1144 is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 08:37 AM
  #51  
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 626
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for posting this Janis! I always enjoy your TRs. I thought I was the only one who had made very sure about the dates of flights, and then discover that I had miraculously managed to have it slightly wrong. My mistake however, only gave me one extra day in London!
kovsie is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 09:18 AM
  #52  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,614
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Thanks for another great TR. Sounds like you have a good trip planned.

When will you be in London? I'll be there Aug 30 through Sep 7 and would love to meet you if the dates work.
thursdaysd is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 11:49 AM
  #53  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
great report jj. I really enjoyed reading about your exploration of the battle fields and Bruges - and Keukenhof of course. The last time we were there the show in the glass-houses was orchids; i fell in love with them and now have about half a dozen in my kitchen.

Shame I couldn't make it to the GTG - hopefully next time.

or you could come to Cornwall of course!
annhig is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 12:23 PM
  #54  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,816
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
<B>annhig: </B> Not to worry, Devon/Dorset/Cornwall are in my sights for maybe next Spring. I'd like to visit London during the craft week demos/open houses which is in May I think. And maybe I can tack on a week or 10 days in the SW. That plan is still pretty <i>squishy</i> and I won't know til maybe Oct/Nov.

<B>jane1144:</B> I'll be in Edinburgh Aug 25-26 and Glasgow Aug 27-28 (no time in the countryside -- a lightening, car-less trip mainly for a special package at the Tattoo). Nothing those 4 days is in stone except the evening of the 26th for the Tattoo/dinner in the castle.

<B>thursdaysd:</B> I'm staying in London from the late afternoon of Aug 30 through the evening Sept 2

Open to any and all GTG's

<B>kovsie:</B> I REALLY don't know how I did that -- I'm just glad it gave me extra days and not fewer

<B>northie:</B> Loved lunch - the food was good and the company better . . .

<B>ssander:</B> I had not been to Keukenhof before and it was like a kaleidoscope of flowers. Just amazing. You should try to get there -- but it is such a short season. That huge park but only open for a few weeks . . .

<B>europeannovice:</B> I <i>think</i> the rack rate for my suite is in the £700+ range (but who's counting ). There are Junior suites for about £450 but my room was larger.
janisj is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 01:05 PM
  #55  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
That huge park but only open for a few weeks . . >>

AND they dig up every bulb and start fresh for the new season.
annhig is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 01:35 PM
  #56  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,614
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Not sure what time I'll get in on the 30th. How about the 31st? Monday should be fairly quiet.
thursdaysd is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 02:32 PM
  #57  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'll be arriving in London on Aug. 31 for a week's stay, and would love to join a GTG.
elberko is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 03:10 PM
  #58  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,816
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
OOH -- a GTG in the making. I'll know more in a few weeks

The 31st is the Bank Holiday so that might affect some things/options . . .
janisj is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 03:17 PM
  #59  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I should add that I'll be arriving after an overnight flight from the US, so not the best day for me.
elberko is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2015, 05:11 PM
  #60  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'll be coming from SFO on August 30th - 6th. I wanna join too!
Janis, you've inspired me to write & post my recent trip report on my 2 week trip in May to Scotland. Just have to finish up some volunteer work first.
gailscout is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -