Honoring my Father, Belgium, Amsterdam, London and TWO GTGs
May 28th, 2015, 06:02 AM
#21
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janisj - You are absolutely correct when you say 'the star of Brugges is Brugges itself'. It's one of the most loveliest places I've been!
I was there last September when the fall colours were beginning to show in the foliage. I am wondering what the gardens were like when you were there in April. Any signs of spring?
I was there last September when the fall colours were beginning to show in the foliage. I am wondering what the gardens were like when you were there in April. Any signs of spring?
May 29th, 2015, 02:50 AM
#22
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We went to Brugge after being with you janisj. It was a holiday weekend (see my TR) and so crowded . You are right it is lovely at night and even nicer on a Monday after a long weekend .
We loved the Groeninge museum as its paintings tie in with the story of Brugge.
We loved the Groeninge museum as its paintings tie in with the story of Brugge.
May 29th, 2015, 06:34 PM
#23
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Hi northie. I was headed to the Groeninge when I saw a half empty tour boat about to set off and did that instead -- so didn't make it there.
Hope to get the next installment, maybe 2, up later tonight . . .
Hope to get the next installment, maybe 2, up later tonight . . .
May 30th, 2015, 07:16 PM
#26
Original Poster
<B>April 23/24. Trains to Trois ponts, African Safari bedroom in Stavelot, and my day with Henri Mignon -- a real gem.</B>
Overnight I started to feel ill -- a sinus infection. Nothing that would stop me but enough to feel like crap. Breakfast was lovely -- but I couldn't really taste much w/ all the congestion/sore throat. Luckily I accidentally had some antibiotics w/ me (They were left over from a horrible sinus infection I had in December. The doc switched me over to a stronger antibiotic halfway through the series so I had half bottle left. Tossed it in my carry on by mistake. Thank heavens -- between the antibiotic and some OTC things I picked up in Malmedy I kicked it in about 4 days)
Could have walk to the station in about 10 minutes, but because it was cool and a little drippy (and did I say I felt like crap) I had them call me a cab. I expected a zoo at the station because of yesterday's strike but it was easy as pie. There were posters up and announcement that tickets for yesterday's trains would be good today.
I was traveling from Brugge w/ a change in Liege to Trois Ponts and then a local bus to Stavelot. After Liege the terrain change dramatically and became very pretty -- rivers, hills, rock outcroppings -- very very rural. Apparently the ticket checker didn't get the memo that yesterday's tickets are good today. She got into a heated argument w/ a man who was traveling to (I think) Luxembourg. They argue for about 5 minutes and then she sat down across the aisle from me and made a phone call. At the next small village we stopped -- on come two policemen who proceed to join the ticket checker in arguing w/ the man who kept pleading that "They said my ticket is good today". Next town -- they took him off the train.
Got off at Trois Ponts -- and discover the station was closed several months ago and there is no info/bus schedules posted anywhere. The only other passenger getting off was a young backpacker who spoke almost no English and like me had no idea where/what to do. I walked around the front of the station and there were a couple of small buses -- but no drivers. About 10 minutes later they came appeared from I know not where.
(one thing the bartender at the Grand Californian - the one w/ family near here - told me is that in the far eastern corner of Belgium, English is not nearly as widely spoken as in the rest of the country. And boy, was he right! Hard to quantify but I ran into relatively few people spoke much/any English at all. One gets lazy/used to being able to communicate just about everywhere - but not so easy in rural eastern Belgium.)
The bus driver did speak a little English and he showed me where to get off in Stavelot. It was a very short walk down a steep hill to my hotel for the next <strike>three</strike> two nights Hotel Dufrays -- a really neat old bldg w/ theme rooms. Art Deco, Chinese, etc. . . . and mine -- the African room - Four poster w/ mosquito netting, balcony, campaign chairs, 'jungle foliage', and a massive bathroom. There is a large garden at the back and the hotel is grand -- in a sort of rakish/louche sort of way. 'Shabby Chic' doesn't quite do it justice.
http://www.bbb-dufays.be/home/home.php
I unpacked and sat out in the garden for a while - gorgeous afternoon - and had tea and cookies. Then I walked doooooown to the town center (Stavelot is built on a pretty steep hill) and explored the surprisingly large Abbey museum. Lots of interesting exhibits including a large lower level filled w/ historic race cars/bikes that had raced at Spa, an extensive temporary exhibit re Anne Frank, modern art, and historic displays about the Malmedy/Stavelot area. In the grounds I saw the first few of the MANY memorials I'd see later dedicated to allied soldiers and civilian victims of the Battle of the Ardennes. Had a beer in the museum cafe and walked upppppp hill back to the hotel. I wasn't feeling great but did need to eat . . . so the guys put together a plate of cheeses/fruit/bread and the was my dinner sitting on my balcony.
Next morning - nice buffet breakfast and at 9:30 Henri arrived to whisk me off on a remarkable day. From 9:30 til nearly 6PM we drove over hill and dale and stopped at many battle locations and memorials. Saw a King Tiger Tank. The really moving memorials to the Malmedy Massacre. Saw the remains of the fox holes where Lyle Bouck and his platoon held off an entire battalion at the very beginning of the German offensive delaying the 6th Panzer army's offensive -- which in the end probably allowed the Allies to prevail. All survivors of the platoon were eventually captured and survived the war in German prisoner camps.
A remarkable thing happened here -- we drove off the road on to a farm track where we could look down on the junction and up to the woods where the platoon had been. There was another car there and a man was taking photos . . . It was a neighbor of the late John Eisenhower. (He died just 18 months ago). Eisenhower wrote The Bitter Woods -- a very good account of the Battle of the Bulge - and this friend/neighbor was following in the footsteps of the stories in the book.
We also went a short distance into Germany and walked among the tank defenses on the Siegfried Line -- those are going to stand as long as Stonehenge!
And finally we drove along the Elsenborn Ridge and into the twin village of R went to the villages of Rocherath-Krinkelt. During the day we'd seen many (MANY) memorials various to Engineers, Infantry, Airborne Divisions/battalions/units and here in Krinkelt was this park w/ a large, beautiful monument to my dad's unit -- the Second Division 38th Field Artillery. And then . . . we drove to the edge of the village and to the ACTUAL FARM where my dad's platoon was for 4 days! It is still a farm though the house and barns/out buildings are new since the original farmhouse was destroyed during the fighting.
All day long Henri had shared both details of various skirmishes/battles and what it was like living in the middle of the hell of war. An amazing day I'll never forget.
<B>next: Amsterdam - Ann Frank, Late Rembtandt, Keukenhof and King's Day</B>
__________________________________________________ __________
Here are the Brugge hotels:
http://www.hotelblabla.com/eng_index.html
http://www.bguest.be/en/home-b-guest...t-brugge-1.htm
(for some reason I'm unable to preview . . . so fingers crossed
Overnight I started to feel ill -- a sinus infection. Nothing that would stop me but enough to feel like crap. Breakfast was lovely -- but I couldn't really taste much w/ all the congestion/sore throat. Luckily I accidentally had some antibiotics w/ me (They were left over from a horrible sinus infection I had in December. The doc switched me over to a stronger antibiotic halfway through the series so I had half bottle left. Tossed it in my carry on by mistake. Thank heavens -- between the antibiotic and some OTC things I picked up in Malmedy I kicked it in about 4 days)
Could have walk to the station in about 10 minutes, but because it was cool and a little drippy (and did I say I felt like crap) I had them call me a cab. I expected a zoo at the station because of yesterday's strike but it was easy as pie. There were posters up and announcement that tickets for yesterday's trains would be good today.
I was traveling from Brugge w/ a change in Liege to Trois Ponts and then a local bus to Stavelot. After Liege the terrain change dramatically and became very pretty -- rivers, hills, rock outcroppings -- very very rural. Apparently the ticket checker didn't get the memo that yesterday's tickets are good today. She got into a heated argument w/ a man who was traveling to (I think) Luxembourg. They argue for about 5 minutes and then she sat down across the aisle from me and made a phone call. At the next small village we stopped -- on come two policemen who proceed to join the ticket checker in arguing w/ the man who kept pleading that "They said my ticket is good today". Next town -- they took him off the train.
Got off at Trois Ponts -- and discover the station was closed several months ago and there is no info/bus schedules posted anywhere. The only other passenger getting off was a young backpacker who spoke almost no English and like me had no idea where/what to do. I walked around the front of the station and there were a couple of small buses -- but no drivers. About 10 minutes later they came appeared from I know not where.
(one thing the bartender at the Grand Californian - the one w/ family near here - told me is that in the far eastern corner of Belgium, English is not nearly as widely spoken as in the rest of the country. And boy, was he right! Hard to quantify but I ran into relatively few people spoke much/any English at all. One gets lazy/used to being able to communicate just about everywhere - but not so easy in rural eastern Belgium.)
The bus driver did speak a little English and he showed me where to get off in Stavelot. It was a very short walk down a steep hill to my hotel for the next <strike>three</strike> two nights Hotel Dufrays -- a really neat old bldg w/ theme rooms. Art Deco, Chinese, etc. . . . and mine -- the African room - Four poster w/ mosquito netting, balcony, campaign chairs, 'jungle foliage', and a massive bathroom. There is a large garden at the back and the hotel is grand -- in a sort of rakish/louche sort of way. 'Shabby Chic' doesn't quite do it justice.
http://www.bbb-dufays.be/home/home.php
I unpacked and sat out in the garden for a while - gorgeous afternoon - and had tea and cookies. Then I walked doooooown to the town center (Stavelot is built on a pretty steep hill) and explored the surprisingly large Abbey museum. Lots of interesting exhibits including a large lower level filled w/ historic race cars/bikes that had raced at Spa, an extensive temporary exhibit re Anne Frank, modern art, and historic displays about the Malmedy/Stavelot area. In the grounds I saw the first few of the MANY memorials I'd see later dedicated to allied soldiers and civilian victims of the Battle of the Ardennes. Had a beer in the museum cafe and walked upppppp hill back to the hotel. I wasn't feeling great but did need to eat . . . so the guys put together a plate of cheeses/fruit/bread and the was my dinner sitting on my balcony.
Next morning - nice buffet breakfast and at 9:30 Henri arrived to whisk me off on a remarkable day. From 9:30 til nearly 6PM we drove over hill and dale and stopped at many battle locations and memorials. Saw a King Tiger Tank. The really moving memorials to the Malmedy Massacre. Saw the remains of the fox holes where Lyle Bouck and his platoon held off an entire battalion at the very beginning of the German offensive delaying the 6th Panzer army's offensive -- which in the end probably allowed the Allies to prevail. All survivors of the platoon were eventually captured and survived the war in German prisoner camps.
A remarkable thing happened here -- we drove off the road on to a farm track where we could look down on the junction and up to the woods where the platoon had been. There was another car there and a man was taking photos . . . It was a neighbor of the late John Eisenhower. (He died just 18 months ago). Eisenhower wrote The Bitter Woods -- a very good account of the Battle of the Bulge - and this friend/neighbor was following in the footsteps of the stories in the book.
We also went a short distance into Germany and walked among the tank defenses on the Siegfried Line -- those are going to stand as long as Stonehenge!
And finally we drove along the Elsenborn Ridge and into the twin village of R went to the villages of Rocherath-Krinkelt. During the day we'd seen many (MANY) memorials various to Engineers, Infantry, Airborne Divisions/battalions/units and here in Krinkelt was this park w/ a large, beautiful monument to my dad's unit -- the Second Division 38th Field Artillery. And then . . . we drove to the edge of the village and to the ACTUAL FARM where my dad's platoon was for 4 days! It is still a farm though the house and barns/out buildings are new since the original farmhouse was destroyed during the fighting.
All day long Henri had shared both details of various skirmishes/battles and what it was like living in the middle of the hell of war. An amazing day I'll never forget.
<B>next: Amsterdam - Ann Frank, Late Rembtandt, Keukenhof and King's Day</B>
__________________________________________________ __________
Here are the Brugge hotels:
http://www.hotelblabla.com/eng_index.html
http://www.bguest.be/en/home-b-guest...t-brugge-1.htm
(for some reason I'm unable to preview . . . so fingers crossed
May 30th, 2015, 08:43 PM
#27
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The links worked - janisj
The places you stayed in Bruges look great . We were very disappointed in our choice there - Martin's Bruge - very large and impersonal although central - then aren't most things in Bruges
The places you stayed in Bruges look great . We were very disappointed in our choice there - Martin's Bruge - very large and impersonal although central - then aren't most things in Bruges
May 31st, 2015, 01:23 PM
#28
Original Poster
<B>April 25-27. Amsterdam - Ann Frank, Late Rembtandt, Keukenhof and King's Day</B>
<B>Saturday</B>:The night before I tried to book my ticket through to Amsterdam on line but couldn't. Neither Ad (one of the owners) nor I could figure it out, but apparently one can only book to other Belgian stations from Trois Ponts. Because the station is unstaffed and I wasn't sure if the machine would take my US non-chip/PIN cc, Ad offered to drive me over and use his card if necessary. When we got there . . . not to worry -- the fare to Liege was only a little over €2 -- pocket change
So we said out good bye's and I waited for the train in the little shelter next to the tracks. Got to Liege and dashed to the ticket office where there was quite a queue for international destinations. By the time I got to the agent I had 2 minutes to catch a train via Maastricht w/ no changes - or nearly an hour to catch one w/ 2 changes in Leuven and Antwerp. Ran like Hell and made the Maastricht train (traveling light really helps).
I arrive at Amsterdam and I know it is walkable to my hotel -- a long walk but certainly doable. But the station (and the city for that matter) is an absolute ZOO!. This is the Saturday afternoon before the Kings Day holiday Monday and it is unbelievable how crowded things are. So I took a cab - glad I did but the trip was very E ticket/Mr Toad's Wild Ride-ish (Disney reference). Cutting through massive crowds of pedestrians w/ death wishes stepping in front w/o looking, and driving on the tram tracks.
Stayed at Hotel V Nesplein http://hotelvnesplein.nl
Loved this place! Not on a canal but right in the center of things close to Dam Square, close (enough) to the station, walking distance to Anne Frank's house, the Rijksmuseum/Van Gogh and everyplace I went -- in fact I never rode a tram once in 3 days. My room was very large and the lobby restaurant and bar were terrific. Had dinner there Sunday night and ended each evening in the couches/library at the end of the bar. Just a very comfortable place to stay.
After unpacking I went to the front desk and asked about recommendations for dinner (the hotel restaurant was fully booked). They rang up Brasserie Flo and they had one opening If I could be there by 6:15 . . . so that's where I went. Very nice room and really good food. Had an Asparagus soup starter, lamb w/ a turnip/potato mash, and a cheese board for dessert. http://www.floamsterdam.nl/en/
It was a lovely evening and I walked around for a couple of hours includig riding on some of the carnival rides set up in Dam Square. Wandered through the Red Light District and to the station to check on travel to Keukenhof on Monday. (But because of the crazy CRAZY crowds in town - I ended up booking an all day tour that included Haarlem, bulb fields and four hours in the Gardens. Just decided it would be easier.) Back to the hotel and had an Irish Coffee in the lounge. Took a bubble bath in the second longest tube I've ever seen in a hotel room (after the one at the St Pancras). Slept like a baby.
<B>Sunday</B>: Today I have an11AM ticket for Anne Frank's House and a 3PM booking for the Late Rembrandt exhibition at the Rijksmuseum. It is a little drippy but not really raining and warm enough. I walk around for maybe 90 minutes meandering in the general direction of the AF house. Stopped in a small bar/cafe and had OJ and a croissant and then a pot of tea. Had nice conversations w/ the bartender, and w/ a young couple from Brazil sitting at the next table. They left and apparently the bar cat -- an enormous calico w/ the prettiest coat -- had been annoyed that they were sitting at <I>her</i> table. She flounced up on to the bench next to me and proceeded to settle in w/ her head in my lap and purred like an old engine and fell asleep. (Why do they serve hot tea in glasses instead of cups w/ handles? Too HOT to hold)
Note to anyone wanting to visit the Anne Frank House . . . absolutely 100% <B><u>Pre book your tickets on line </B></u>!! I got to the house about 10:45 - you are instructed to go to the side door at the appointed time . . . and while walking around to the entrance passed and ENORMOUS line of those queueing w/o tickets. The line circled the entire block and then some. I rang the bell and asked if I could enter a bit early or should I wait outside - they asked my name and released the door and said I could visit the cafe upstairs or the gift shop and come back to the lobby at 11.
What can I say?? Just very moving. They only allow a few from the general admission queue to enter at a time so once you are inside, the house is never overly crowded. It is amazing the effect the displays and being in the actual rooms has on visitors. Even the few small children were really quiet and respectful. I had first read the Diary as a young girl and it really affected me - but I could never get my mind around the physical lay out or the actual space or how they could stay undiscovered for so long Being there clears everything up and shows it was even more arduous than I imagined while reading the diary. The rooms are empty of furniture -- at Otto Frank's insistence. There are lots of family photos I had not seen before.
After about 90 minutes in the house I walked around, along several canals towards the Rijksmuseum/Museumplein. I wanted to have a light lunch but the museum was absolutely mobbed and the cafe totally booked up. So I ended up at one of the food kiosks in the park and had a really terrific sandwich and coffee.
Wandered around the Rijksmusem for maybe 45 minutes before my ticket time. An absolute mob scene. Once I entered the exhibition it was no better -- just wall to wall people. I <i>think</i> the exhibition was exceptional . . . but couldn't really see that much of it
I worked my way through and as I neared the end saw the the initial rooms were almost empty so I went back around through the first 5 or 6 rooms and ACTUALLY could see most of the displays . . . His late self portraits are amazing -- you sense you are looking at a gentle soul.
After pulling myself away I spent another maybe 45 minutes in the museum. Found the gallery w/ the Night Watch/etc and it was unbelievable. Those of you who've seen the mob scene in front of the Mona Lisa at the Louvre . . . well multiply that by a 100X -- this massive room, lined by these massive paintings . . . and every square inch is filled w/ people -- the vast majority of whom are holding their phone high over their heads just trying to get a mere glimpse of the painting. And those who aren't holding the phones on high . . are carrying their young children (some holding phones) on their shoulders.
Worked my way back to the hotel - had an 8PM dinner reservation there -- had sea bass and not sure what else. Tomorrow is Kings Day and when I went up to the room, turn down service had been done and there were two really cute crowns on the pillows - maybe I'll wear one when I go out tomorrow after getting back from the tour.
<B>Next: Monday -- Kings Day in Haarlem, visit to a bulb farm, and Keukenhoff - and <strike>big</strike> huge crowds in Amsterdam.
<B>Saturday</B>:The night before I tried to book my ticket through to Amsterdam on line but couldn't. Neither Ad (one of the owners) nor I could figure it out, but apparently one can only book to other Belgian stations from Trois Ponts. Because the station is unstaffed and I wasn't sure if the machine would take my US non-chip/PIN cc, Ad offered to drive me over and use his card if necessary. When we got there . . . not to worry -- the fare to Liege was only a little over €2 -- pocket change
So we said out good bye's and I waited for the train in the little shelter next to the tracks. Got to Liege and dashed to the ticket office where there was quite a queue for international destinations. By the time I got to the agent I had 2 minutes to catch a train via Maastricht w/ no changes - or nearly an hour to catch one w/ 2 changes in Leuven and Antwerp. Ran like Hell and made the Maastricht train (traveling light really helps).
I arrive at Amsterdam and I know it is walkable to my hotel -- a long walk but certainly doable. But the station (and the city for that matter) is an absolute ZOO!. This is the Saturday afternoon before the Kings Day holiday Monday and it is unbelievable how crowded things are. So I took a cab - glad I did but the trip was very E ticket/Mr Toad's Wild Ride-ish (Disney reference).
Cutting through massive crowds of pedestrians w/ death wishes stepping in front w/o looking, and driving on the tram tracks.Stayed at Hotel V Nesplein http://hotelvnesplein.nl
Loved this place! Not on a canal but right in the center of things close to Dam Square, close (enough) to the station, walking distance to Anne Frank's house, the Rijksmuseum/Van Gogh and everyplace I went -- in fact I never rode a tram once in 3 days. My room was very large and the lobby restaurant and bar were terrific. Had dinner there Sunday night and ended each evening in the couches/library at the end of the bar. Just a very comfortable place to stay.
After unpacking I went to the front desk and asked about recommendations for dinner (the hotel restaurant was fully booked). They rang up Brasserie Flo and they had one opening If I could be there by 6:15 . . . so that's where I went. Very nice room and really good food. Had an Asparagus soup starter, lamb w/ a turnip/potato mash, and a cheese board for dessert. http://www.floamsterdam.nl/en/
It was a lovely evening and I walked around for a couple of hours includig riding on some of the carnival rides set up in Dam Square. Wandered through the Red Light District and to the station to check on travel to Keukenhof on Monday. (But because of the crazy CRAZY crowds in town - I ended up booking an all day tour that included Haarlem, bulb fields and four hours in the Gardens. Just decided it would be easier.) Back to the hotel and had an Irish Coffee in the lounge. Took a bubble bath in the second longest tube I've ever seen in a hotel room (after the one at the St Pancras). Slept like a baby.
<B>Sunday</B>: Today I have an11AM ticket for Anne Frank's House and a 3PM booking for the Late Rembrandt exhibition at the Rijksmuseum. It is a little drippy but not really raining and warm enough. I walk around for maybe 90 minutes meandering in the general direction of the AF house. Stopped in a small bar/cafe and had OJ and a croissant and then a pot of tea. Had nice conversations w/ the bartender, and w/ a young couple from Brazil sitting at the next table. They left and apparently the bar cat -- an enormous calico w/ the prettiest coat -- had been annoyed that they were sitting at <I>her</i> table. She flounced up on to the bench next to me and proceeded to settle in w/ her head in my lap and purred like an old engine and fell asleep.
(Why do they serve hot tea in glasses instead of cups w/ handles? Too HOT to hold)Note to anyone wanting to visit the Anne Frank House . . . absolutely 100% <B><u>Pre book your tickets on line </B></u>!! I got to the house about 10:45 - you are instructed to go to the side door at the appointed time . . . and while walking around to the entrance passed and ENORMOUS line of those queueing w/o tickets. The line circled the entire block and then some. I rang the bell and asked if I could enter a bit early or should I wait outside - they asked my name and released the door and said I could visit the cafe upstairs or the gift shop and come back to the lobby at 11.
What can I say?? Just very moving. They only allow a few from the general admission queue to enter at a time so once you are inside, the house is never overly crowded. It is amazing the effect the displays and being in the actual rooms has on visitors. Even the few small children were really quiet and respectful. I had first read the Diary as a young girl and it really affected me - but I could never get my mind around the physical lay out or the actual space or how they could stay undiscovered for so long Being there clears everything up and shows it was even more arduous than I imagined while reading the diary. The rooms are empty of furniture -- at Otto Frank's insistence. There are lots of family photos I had not seen before.
After about 90 minutes in the house I walked around, along several canals towards the Rijksmuseum/Museumplein. I wanted to have a light lunch but the museum was absolutely mobbed and the cafe totally booked up. So I ended up at one of the food kiosks in the park and had a really terrific sandwich and coffee.
Wandered around the Rijksmusem for maybe 45 minutes before my ticket time. An absolute mob scene. Once I entered the exhibition it was no better -- just wall to wall people. I <i>think</i> the exhibition was exceptional . . . but couldn't really see that much of it
I worked my way through and as I neared the end saw the the initial rooms were almost empty so I went back around through the first 5 or 6 rooms and ACTUALLY could see most of the displays . . . His late self portraits are amazing -- you sense you are looking at a gentle soul.After pulling myself away I spent another maybe 45 minutes in the museum. Found the gallery w/ the Night Watch/etc and it was unbelievable. Those of you who've seen the mob scene in front of the Mona Lisa at the Louvre . . . well multiply that by a 100X -- this massive room, lined by these massive paintings . . . and every square inch is filled w/ people -- the vast majority of whom are holding their phone high over their heads just trying to get a mere glimpse of the painting. And those who aren't holding the phones on high . . are carrying their young children (some holding phones) on their shoulders.
Worked my way back to the hotel - had an 8PM dinner reservation there -- had sea bass and not sure what else. Tomorrow is Kings Day and when I went up to the room, turn down service had been done and there were two really cute crowns on the pillows - maybe I'll wear one when I go out tomorrow after getting back from the tour.
<B>Next: Monday -- Kings Day in Haarlem, visit to a bulb farm, and Keukenhoff - and <strike>big</strike> huge crowds in Amsterdam.
May 31st, 2015, 05:20 PM
#29
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Enjoying your report and yes, "Way to go Warriors". I was in Amsterdam at the same time as you - 2 years ago - and could not believe the crowds. Plus both the Degas and Rijks had just reopen the week before - just went with the flow and then on Tuesday, the day to leave, we were a bit taken back seeing just how normal Amsterdam can be. Going again in early November and will pre-book The Anne Frank House.
May 31st, 2015, 11:00 PM
#32
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I always remember The Night watch - thankfully it was before mobile phones had to be used for every occasion . Sometimes I wonder why people go to concerts, galleries and even plays if all they want to do is record /photo everything . What's a brain for?
janisj - just today I saw Anthony Beevors book "Hitlers last stand - the battle of Ardennes - " - not sure if that is where your father was but might be relevant
janisj - just today I saw Anthony Beevors book "Hitlers last stand - the battle of Ardennes - " - not sure if that is where your father was but might be relevant
Jun 1st, 2015, 08:31 AM
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Lovely, janisj. Love your descriptions of the mad crowds in Amsterdam. I can only imagine how it must have felt to be the exact place your father was during the war. Thank you so much for sharing.
Jun 2nd, 2015, 07:02 PM
#34
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<B>April 27: Monday -- Kings Day in Haarlem, visit to a bulb farm, and Keukenhoff - and big huge crowds in Amsterdam.</B>
I had originally planned on missing Kings Day (I thought it was April 30 and by then I'll be in London) but a few weeks before my trip learned I was not only in Amsterdam on Kings Day -- that was the only day I had free for Keukenhof which was one of the main reasons for being there in April.
I was just going to head to the Gardens on my own via tram/train/bus but everyone said the city would be a zoo, that the trams and some trains would not run and I wasn't sure how the holiday would affect crowds at Keukenhof.
So while talking to the hotel desk staff asking about transport options and she suggested I take a tour. I didn't think that was a good idea -- huge coach, a couple of hours in the gardens, and the obligatory visit to a bulb farm. But one looked good (much more expensive @£95 but ticked most of the boxes). A 9-hour tour, small group -15 max (we had 12), pick up point walking distance from the hotel so trams wouldn't be a problem, a visit to Haarlem, the bulb farm, and 4 full hours in the Gardens. So I booked it.
Had a great day - and the gorgeous weather didn't hurt. But got off to a rocky start. The <i>normal</i> pick up point is walking distance from the hotel on Damrak. But big problem -- the whole city center was shut down and coaches could not get there. So after we met up at the ticket office our guide says we have to walk a short way to get beyond the closed area . . . and we walked more than a mile out past the cruise terminal.
It was a full size coach so we had lots of room to spread out and both the guide and driver were super. First stop was Haarlem where we took a walking tour. I loved it -- they were celebrating how I'd guess Queens/Kings days were celebrated years ago. Very family-friendly w/ children setting up sort of mini car boot sales and selling drinks, busking, a marching band, a sing along in the cathedral. One little girl maybe 8 yo was playing her violin and her little sister (like 4yo) was passing the hat. Another little boy was doing a Michael Jackson impersonation dancing to a boom box of the Thriller album When I go back to the NL sometime I think I may stay a couple of days in Haarlem.
From there we headed across mile and miles of flower fields -- almost electric colors. We stopped at a farm and I assumed there would be a hard sell. But it was great. We could walk through the fields and there was a film in the barn/visitors center/cafe about flower production. Then the owner gave us a talk about hybridizing/etc. he explained that this year was pretty unusual and we are lucky tot be visiting now. Normally the spring bulbs are sequential - the early bulbs/crocus/anemone/hyacinths, then the daffodils, and finally tulips/allium/etc. But this year early spring was very cold so most bulbs were pushed back and right now ALL are blooming at once. It was beautiful w/ the grape hyacinth and daffy's and tulips blooming together. They didn't try to sell us anything - just gave us brochures to take home. A very pleasant stop.
Then on to Keukenhof. The tour description said a picnic lunch was included but before we left the coach they gave us each €15 vouchers to use in any restaurant in the gardens which was great. We started out on what the guide said would be a short/get acquainted with the gardens walking tour . . . but after about 15 minutes I just wanted to get off and explore on my own. So I left the group and spent the next 3.5 hours in an absolute fairy land. As the bulb farmer had said EVERYTHING was in bloom together. It was really floral overload. The most beautiful planting combos and color combinations.
And the glass houses were sort of Chelsea-esque without the MASSIVE crowds. Yes, there were a lot of people in the Gardens -- but not too many/too crowded - maybe most everyone was getting smashed in Amsterdam One display in a glasshouse was small hydrangeas one plant per pot/one bloom per plant . . . the <i>plants</i> were small but the individual blooms were ENORMOUS -- like larger than basketballs.
The flower beds had every color combination imaginable and I had never before seen some of the tulip forms. One could (literally) take 1000 photos -- but I didn't -- only about 150.
Had a fish dish and glass of wine and shared a table w/ a really interesting couple from Brussels and we talked for maybe 45 minutes. Then back out into the gardens for another 90 minutes before heading back to the coach. We were not rushed at all and it was a decent amount of time - a full day would have been good but 4+ hours was fine.
And when we boarded the bus -- they brought out cheeses/crackers/cans of Heineken Fun drive back to A'dam . . . Party bus 
We had to park in the same area so another long walk back to the city center. This time though there were big crowds everywhere. Stalls selling all sorts of funny hats and t-shirts, food and drinks, music . . . but even though it was only a little after 6 PM some stalls were already closing down and people were streaming towards the station. The city was still crowded but you could tell things were slowing down. I had a sort of sausage roll and fries and a beer and made then went back to Dam Square to ride the Ferris wheel again then my way back to the hotel about 7:30. Partially packed and then went down to the lobby bar for a nightcap. It is supposed to be rainy tomorrow - and heck - I have some € left so I decided tomorrow morning I'll take a taxi to the airport for my flight to Gatwick and the London part of my adventure.
<B>Next: Not one but <u>two</u> GTGs, Sargent, McQueen, and Champagne at the Palace . . .
I had originally planned on missing Kings Day (I thought it was April 30 and by then I'll be in London) but a few weeks before my trip learned I was not only in Amsterdam on Kings Day -- that was the only day I had free for Keukenhof which was one of the main reasons for being there in April.
I was just going to head to the Gardens on my own via tram/train/bus but everyone said the city would be a zoo, that the trams and some trains would not run and I wasn't sure how the holiday would affect crowds at Keukenhof.
So while talking to the hotel desk staff asking about transport options and she suggested I take a tour. I didn't think that was a good idea -- huge coach, a couple of hours in the gardens, and the obligatory visit to a bulb farm. But one looked good (much more expensive @£95 but ticked most of the boxes). A 9-hour tour, small group -15 max (we had 12), pick up point walking distance from the hotel so trams wouldn't be a problem, a visit to Haarlem, the bulb farm, and 4 full hours in the Gardens. So I booked it.
Had a great day - and the gorgeous weather didn't hurt. But got off to a rocky start. The <i>normal</i> pick up point is walking distance from the hotel on Damrak. But big problem -- the whole city center was shut down and coaches could not get there. So after we met up at the ticket office our guide says we have to walk a short way to get beyond the closed area . . . and we walked more than a mile out past the cruise terminal.
It was a full size coach so we had lots of room to spread out and both the guide and driver were super. First stop was Haarlem where we took a walking tour. I loved it -- they were celebrating how I'd guess Queens/Kings days were celebrated years ago. Very family-friendly w/ children setting up sort of mini car boot sales and selling drinks, busking, a marching band, a sing along in the cathedral. One little girl maybe 8 yo was playing her violin and her little sister (like 4yo) was passing the hat. Another little boy was doing a Michael Jackson impersonation dancing to a boom box of the Thriller album
When I go back to the NL sometime I think I may stay a couple of days in Haarlem.From there we headed across mile and miles of flower fields -- almost electric colors. We stopped at a farm and I assumed there would be a hard sell. But it was great. We could walk through the fields and there was a film in the barn/visitors center/cafe about flower production. Then the owner gave us a talk about hybridizing/etc. he explained that this year was pretty unusual and we are lucky tot be visiting now. Normally the spring bulbs are sequential - the early bulbs/crocus/anemone/hyacinths, then the daffodils, and finally tulips/allium/etc. But this year early spring was very cold so most bulbs were pushed back and right now ALL are blooming at once. It was beautiful w/ the grape hyacinth and daffy's and tulips blooming together. They didn't try to sell us anything - just gave us brochures to take home. A very pleasant stop.
Then on to Keukenhof. The tour description said a picnic lunch was included but before we left the coach they gave us each €15 vouchers to use in any restaurant in the gardens which was great. We started out on what the guide said would be a short/get acquainted with the gardens walking tour . . . but after about 15 minutes I just wanted to get off and explore on my own. So I left the group and spent the next 3.5 hours in an absolute fairy land. As the bulb farmer had said EVERYTHING was in bloom together. It was really floral overload. The most beautiful planting combos and color combinations.
And the glass houses were sort of Chelsea-esque without the MASSIVE crowds. Yes, there were a lot of people in the Gardens -- but not too many/too crowded - maybe most everyone was getting smashed in Amsterdam
One display in a glasshouse was small hydrangeas one plant per pot/one bloom per plant . . . the <i>plants</i> were small but the individual blooms were ENORMOUS -- like larger than basketballs.The flower beds had every color combination imaginable and I had never before seen some of the tulip forms. One could (literally) take 1000 photos -- but I didn't -- only about 150.
Had a fish dish and glass of wine and shared a table w/ a really interesting couple from Brussels and we talked for maybe 45 minutes. Then back out into the gardens for another 90 minutes before heading back to the coach. We were not rushed at all and it was a decent amount of time - a full day would have been good but 4+ hours was fine.
And when we boarded the bus -- they brought out cheeses/crackers/cans of Heineken
Fun drive back to A'dam . . . Party bus We had to park in the same area so another long walk back to the city center. This time though there were big crowds everywhere. Stalls selling all sorts of funny hats and t-shirts, food and drinks, music . . . but even though it was only a little after 6 PM some stalls were already closing down and people were streaming towards the station. The city was still crowded but you could tell things were slowing down. I had a sort of sausage roll and fries and a beer and made then went back to Dam Square to ride the Ferris wheel again then my way back to the hotel about 7:30. Partially packed and then went down to the lobby bar for a nightcap. It is supposed to be rainy tomorrow - and heck - I have some € left so I decided tomorrow morning I'll take a taxi to the airport for my flight to Gatwick and the London part of my adventure.
<B>Next: Not one but <u>two</u> GTGs, Sargent, McQueen, and Champagne at the Palace . . .
Jun 3rd, 2015, 06:59 PM
#38
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Fantastic report Janisj. Following along with interest. Looking forward to the next installments.
We loved the Renaissance Hotel at Chancery Court a few years back and were very happy to stay on points. Renaissance since sold Chancery Court to concentrate on their new acquisition by Kings Cross. You were very lucky to get upgraded as you were! Wonder what the nightly rate is for that kind of room?
We loved the Renaissance Hotel at Chancery Court a few years back and were very happy to stay on points. Renaissance since sold Chancery Court to concentrate on their new acquisition by Kings Cross. You were very lucky to get upgraded as you were! Wonder what the nightly rate is for that kind of room?
Jun 4th, 2015, 04:14 PM
#40
Original Poster
Thanks everyone. Haven't given up on the TR . . . sat down to finish it last night and lost internet connection for nearly 3 hours 
Will try to finish it after the NBA game tonight.
Will try to finish it after the NBA game tonight.
