Aubrey

Does anyone out there have good suggestions for hotels in Florence and any other reccommendation for visiting other towns in Tuscany? We want to stay in the nicest hotels, but we do not care to stay in chain hotels. Any suggestions? Is two nights in Siena too much? Any other towns that we should stay in?

paul

Aubrey. First of all, great choice for a honeymoon. My wife and I honeymooned in Tuscany two years ago. I don't have a specific hotel recommendation in Florence (we stayed in a great B&B about half an hour outside the city). I think two nights in Siena is not too much. And finally, if you want some great thoughts on Tuscany, read Dean's new post "Toscana suggestions." <BR>Have a great time.

Dean

Hi from the above mentioned Dean <BR> <BR>Here are 3 replies on Florence. Buon Viaggio! <BR> <BR>Toscana would definitely be my choice for a honeymoon as it was for my wife and my 10th anniversary in '98. I would choose a winery based apartment somewhere around San Gim or Castellina in Chianti to be centrally located. You would not be more than 90 minutes from most anything you might like to do in the countryside. A few nights in Florence would be great as well. I have only stayed at the Casci is Florence, not romantic but very helpful, inexpensive and well located and quiet. In Florence here are my favorite things to do. Some are offbeat and some are just a few suggestions for the obvious and famous sights: <BR> <BR>Brancacci Chapel for the Masaccio fresco's. go early or just at lunch time as you have to wait to get in, only 20 people or so at a time to preserve the beautifully restored frescos. These fresco's were a major inspiration for Michaelangelo. The rest of Santa maria is an overblown confection of Boroque excess that makes the Fresco's even more striking. Some of the panels were by Lippi (I believe) and anywhere else would be stunning but sadly pale in comparison. Adam and Eve being expelled from the garden is the highlight. <BR> <BR>After the Brancacci, be sure to stop off at Santo Spirito. A real treat, Santo Spirito is an architectural pun. There are so many tricks used in its construction to give it a sense of greater depth and height that a book could be written. After Santo Spirito, walk under the passage way directly to the left of the door (with your back to the door of the church). There is a small Trattoria called Casalinga (which I believe translates to housewife or home cooking). Here you will dine with plumbers, painters and Tuscan royalty. The house wine is dreadful plonk only somewhat related to real wine, but somehow it is the perfect accompaniment to the wonderful boiled tongue or roast chicken. You will leave stuffed and for a stupendously low price. <BR> <BR>Ufizzi (make online reservations to avoid the mindnumbing line). Follow up with a glass of hot chocolate at Rivoire. <BR>

Dean

Santa Croce <BR> <BR>See the tombs and funerary monuments of Gallileo, Michaelangelo and more. Giotto frescoes, incredible marble (the left transept has some famous dead lady's monument and you would swear that the draped cloth over her was real yet it is marble. Be sure to see the museo in the cloisters. <BR> <BR>After Santa Croce, cross the piazza with the church to your rear. On the left side of the Piazza are two streets whose names I forget. The one closer to the middle of the square holds a real treat. Follow it for 2 or so blocks and you will find Capecci. This is a leather shop that is now home to more of my Lire than I care to think about. Capecci is a father daughter team who make the most amazing creations is hand tooled and dyed leather. Photo albums, wall hangings, purses, wallets, pocket books to bookmarks. The style is original and exciting, with a childlike sense of style. <BR> <BR>Dinner at Cibreo Ristorante. The food is spectacular, the wine list even better. This is Tuscan food of old interpreted with the best of today's ingredients. Tuscan food before the introduction of pasta to the region. The Polenta with butter and herbs or the Lamprodetto are stellar (Lampredetto is a type of tripe). I have never been to the restaurant before the roast lamb or the yellow pepper soup sell out! The only danger of going late! Very spacious with gracious silver and glassware and very fine service. Ask the sommelier for a wine recommendation. <BR> <BR>Dine at Trattoria Cibreo <BR> <BR>Same food, less costly, crowded wooden tables. But do dine at the Ristorante for the luxury as well. <BR> <BR> <BR>The Perugino Fresco's at Santa Maria delle Pazzi. <BR> <BR>On a side street in a grim neighborhood of Florence is a real treat. You need to go between 5 and 7pm when the church is open. Off the through right is a little entryway to the cloisters. You pay a few thousand Lire and then follow the signs underneath the church through the crypt to a isolated chapel with a Perugino fresco. This fresco is 600 years old and has never been retouched. Its simplicity, soft coloring and beautiful background are only surpassed by the joy of being able to see it in solitude and silence. We stayed for a half hour looking and photographing (without a flash of course) the fresco and only had fellow visitors for 5 minutes. Benissimo! <BR> <BR>The Academia (with online reservations) <BR> <BR>Yes see the David, its stupendous. But for my money I am much happier communing with the four prisoners, statues originally destined for the tomb of Julius II but never finished and abandoned by Michelangelo. They were left in the outdoors for years and finally found their way here. These are his greatest sculpture imho. <BR>

Dean

The Duomo <BR> <BR>You can climb to the top of the Duomo for breathtaking views of the city. This also give you a chance to see how Brunelleschi designed and built the dome. It's a double layered dome with one layer "hanging" from the other. It is this interconnectedness that makes for the rigidity and strength of the dome. After going up, go down to S. Riparta. When the Duomo was built, the original 4th century church was pulled down to the street level and converted to the foundation of the new church. Lucky for us there is enough of the old church left for us to visit. Also, there are early Christian mosaics and other artifacts. Then there are pre Christian roman artifacts. Layer upon layer, this has been a holy site for thousands of years. A real must see. <BR> <BR>The Museo del Opera del Santa Maria del Fiore <BR> <BR>This is the museum of the Duomo. Amazing artifacts from its construction, but even better, Michaelangelo's other Pieta. This Pieta was to be M.'s funerary monument. It is striking in its despair and sorrow. Nicodemus is thought to be M's image. Unbelievably the statue is the victim of graffiti. The museum is behind the Duomo. <BR> <BR>The Baptistery <BR> <BR>Incredible mosaics on the inside of the dome. <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR>Sitting and watching the world go by <BR> <BR>Please make sure you do this regularly while in Florence. The city has such a buzz and bustle to it that you have to force yourself to sit. Favorite places to sit are Piazzale Michaelangelo, the Loggia del Lanzi, the square outside Santo Spirito, the square in front of San Marco and the square in front of Santa Croce. Eat tripe from a tripe cart. Eat panini from a hole in the wall paninni shop. Eat lots of gelato. Enjoy your special time together! Ciao! <BR>