Highlights from my recent week in Paris
Aug 16th, 2008 | 02:16 PM
#1
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Highlights from my recent week in Paris
Hi all. I have just returned last night from 8 wonderful days in Paris. For those interested, I'd like to share with you some highlights from this trip, my 6th, and 2nd solo time, in the city of light.
"MY" APARTMENT
Loved it, loved it, loved it! I stayed in Les Batignolles at 33, rue Truffaut, in the 17th arr. This is a 2nd (French) floor, 500+ sq. ft. beautifully furnished apartment, with a living room, dining area, work area, balcony, full kitchen, hallway, full bathroom and bedroom. I found it bright, spacious, tasteful and comfortable. It was so well organized, and clean as a whistle.
The attractive, art deco building has an elevator, but I always took the stairs, in an effort to at least try to counteract a few of those delicious Parisian carbs!
The English speaking owners are a pleasure to deal with, and seem to have thought of everything. The apartment was fully equipped with every amenity a traveler could need, from all the basics, to a washing machine, laptop computer, travel umbrellas, even a sewing kit with spare buttons! The English speaking concierge who met me on arrival was also very pleasant. I was able to pay my rental fee in dollars, which was also a big plus.
I can't say enough good things about this apartment. See for yourself at www.RentalApartmentParis.com. It is EXACTLY as represented there!
After my nap, I'll tell you about the neighborhood!
"MY" APARTMENT
Loved it, loved it, loved it! I stayed in Les Batignolles at 33, rue Truffaut, in the 17th arr. This is a 2nd (French) floor, 500+ sq. ft. beautifully furnished apartment, with a living room, dining area, work area, balcony, full kitchen, hallway, full bathroom and bedroom. I found it bright, spacious, tasteful and comfortable. It was so well organized, and clean as a whistle.
The attractive, art deco building has an elevator, but I always took the stairs, in an effort to at least try to counteract a few of those delicious Parisian carbs!
The English speaking owners are a pleasure to deal with, and seem to have thought of everything. The apartment was fully equipped with every amenity a traveler could need, from all the basics, to a washing machine, laptop computer, travel umbrellas, even a sewing kit with spare buttons! The English speaking concierge who met me on arrival was also very pleasant. I was able to pay my rental fee in dollars, which was also a big plus.
I can't say enough good things about this apartment. See for yourself at www.RentalApartmentParis.com. It is EXACTLY as represented there!
After my nap, I'll tell you about the neighborhood!
Aug 16th, 2008 | 05:07 PM
#3
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 353
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Iregeo,
We stayed in this apartment for 2 weeks last winter - it is just as wonderful as you say. Only drawback - it is so great that it is booked long in advance! We couldn't get in when we returned in the spring. Found another apartment on the same street - not the same amenities, but quite pleasant - and we were happy to be in Les Batignolles - now our favorite neighborhood in Paris. We look forward to hearing more about your experiences - after your nap!
We stayed in this apartment for 2 weeks last winter - it is just as wonderful as you say. Only drawback - it is so great that it is booked long in advance! We couldn't get in when we returned in the spring. Found another apartment on the same street - not the same amenities, but quite pleasant - and we were happy to be in Les Batignolles - now our favorite neighborhood in Paris. We look forward to hearing more about your experiences - after your nap!
Aug 17th, 2008 | 11:29 AM
#5
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Before I go on, I should mention that I decided to go on this trip only 10 weeks before I left. Since it was to be my 6th trip, I wanted to "live like a local," staying outside the city center, focusing on things I had not yet seen and areas I had not yet been. I also needed to keep the costs down, and, although that's a relative term, I did so where possible (primarily food.) At that late date, I was able to book a business class ticket with miles, saving a huge chunk of money, and the apartment averaged only $155/nt. Not bad so far! Which leads me to...
MY NEIGHBORHOOD
Loved it as much as my apartment! Exactly what I was looking for.
Les Batignolles appears to be a young, working middle class, family type neighborhood. It is located near the northern edge of the city, just west of Montmartre. My closest metro lines were the 2 and 13, the closest stops being La Forche and Place de Clichy. By metro, I was anywhere in the city I wanted to be in about 15 to 20 minutes. Mostly, though, I walked...and walked...and walked...
Lots of young people coming and going; lots of young mothers pushing strollers and walking dogs, but also, a good number of elderly folks strolling around as well. One day, early on in my stay, an elderly woman walking toward me was rather intensely staring at my face. At first, I though she was angry, and might hit me! She stopped, rattling off something in French that I did not understand. What I did understand was her body language, which clearly said "I think I know you...you look just like someone I know!" In my broken French and universal body language, I assured her that we did not know each other. We shared a laugh, she kissed me...we shook hands and went on our way! From that moment on, I felt a part of the neighborhood!
It's that kind of place, with almost a village like feel. Tons of tiny shops, restaurants, bars, cafes, award winning boulangeries and patisseries, charcuteries, cavistes...you get the picture. Even in August, it was filled with life.
I'm a Paris parks person. Love 'em! I've been to many of them...Luxembourg, Champ de Mars, Tuileries, Place des Vosges, Monceau, Butte Chaumont, maybe a few others. Perhaps my favorite part of my neighborhood was their park, called Square des Batignolles. It's a small, romantic, dreamy little place, with lots of green sloping grass, whispy trees, colorful flowers and a lovely flowing stream with fish, ducks and swan (or geese...I can't tell the difference!) The park seems well used, by people reading, lovers kissing, children playing, grandparents watching...just beautiful.
On my first day, after a good stroll in "my" park, I went shopping for my staples. While there are plenty of individual shops and Franprix and convenience type stores, there are also two primary market streets, rue de Levis and rue Lemercier, as well as a large indoor marketplace. I chose rue de Levis.
First, a visit to the fromagerie. Next, a nice slice of foie from the charcuterie. Then, at the boulangerie, when I was handed a still hot baguette, I nearly cried! I felt sooooo Parisian! Walking home, with provisions in hand, I stopped at Nicholas for a red bordeaux and a white sancerre and was set for a few days!
Next, new friends, new discoveries, and DOGS!
MY NEIGHBORHOOD
Loved it as much as my apartment! Exactly what I was looking for.
Les Batignolles appears to be a young, working middle class, family type neighborhood. It is located near the northern edge of the city, just west of Montmartre. My closest metro lines were the 2 and 13, the closest stops being La Forche and Place de Clichy. By metro, I was anywhere in the city I wanted to be in about 15 to 20 minutes. Mostly, though, I walked...and walked...and walked...
Lots of young people coming and going; lots of young mothers pushing strollers and walking dogs, but also, a good number of elderly folks strolling around as well. One day, early on in my stay, an elderly woman walking toward me was rather intensely staring at my face. At first, I though she was angry, and might hit me! She stopped, rattling off something in French that I did not understand. What I did understand was her body language, which clearly said "I think I know you...you look just like someone I know!" In my broken French and universal body language, I assured her that we did not know each other. We shared a laugh, she kissed me...we shook hands and went on our way! From that moment on, I felt a part of the neighborhood!
It's that kind of place, with almost a village like feel. Tons of tiny shops, restaurants, bars, cafes, award winning boulangeries and patisseries, charcuteries, cavistes...you get the picture. Even in August, it was filled with life.
I'm a Paris parks person. Love 'em! I've been to many of them...Luxembourg, Champ de Mars, Tuileries, Place des Vosges, Monceau, Butte Chaumont, maybe a few others. Perhaps my favorite part of my neighborhood was their park, called Square des Batignolles. It's a small, romantic, dreamy little place, with lots of green sloping grass, whispy trees, colorful flowers and a lovely flowing stream with fish, ducks and swan (or geese...I can't tell the difference!) The park seems well used, by people reading, lovers kissing, children playing, grandparents watching...just beautiful.
On my first day, after a good stroll in "my" park, I went shopping for my staples. While there are plenty of individual shops and Franprix and convenience type stores, there are also two primary market streets, rue de Levis and rue Lemercier, as well as a large indoor marketplace. I chose rue de Levis.
First, a visit to the fromagerie. Next, a nice slice of foie from the charcuterie. Then, at the boulangerie, when I was handed a still hot baguette, I nearly cried! I felt sooooo Parisian! Walking home, with provisions in hand, I stopped at Nicholas for a red bordeaux and a white sancerre and was set for a few days!
Next, new friends, new discoveries, and DOGS!
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Aug 19th, 2008 | 01:34 AM
#14
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,885
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"Then, at the boulangerie, when I was handed a still hot baguette, I nearly cried! I felt sooooo Parisian!"
I love it! I am loving your trip report so far. Your enthusiasm is wonderful. I really appreciate your detail descriptions of the apartment and neighborhood. I am looking forward to reading the rest of your trip report. Thanks
I love it! I am loving your trip report so far. Your enthusiasm is wonderful. I really appreciate your detail descriptions of the apartment and neighborhood. I am looking forward to reading the rest of your trip report. Thanks
Aug 19th, 2008 | 04:28 AM
#16
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,074
Likes: 0
HI IREGEO I loved your report , I think you were so clever to go out of the places everybody goes. Great choice, your story is like our visits to Paris time ago.
I am sure I am not the only one thinking of staying in Batignolles next time in Paris. A little out of the tourist influx I hope...
I am sure I am not the only one thinking of staying in Batignolles next time in Paris. A little out of the tourist influx I hope...
Aug 20th, 2008 | 02:11 PM
#18
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,994
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Thank you for your kind words and encouragement.
Travelling alone is not for everyone. I hate to admit how much I adore it. It allows me a rare kind of indulgent freedom that I find precious. I do what I want, go where I want, explore as long as I want, walk as far as I want, and only when I want! Just can't be, nor would I want to be, that indulgent in every day life. But I find it exhilerating and enlightening. I return so refreshed and serene. I also enjoy my alone time, and, silly as it sounds, I get to know myself better!
In addition to a 100 page information guide put together by the apartment owners, another benefit of my apartment was the wide collection of Paris guide books available for my use. There were probably over 20, which covered various aspects of Paris travel...Rick Steves, Frommers, Pudlo's, side trip suggestions, walking guides, shopping guides, museums guides, etc. So, I picked up one or two, and off I went, to explore...
NEW NEIGHBORHOODS
ST. DENIS
Just north of the city, outside the peripherique, is the suburb of St. Denis. It is accessible by a short metro ride on the 13 line.
As a tourist, I believe the main attraction of this town is the beautiful, centuries old basilica (5th century, I believe), where every king since Charlemagne is buried. Amazing stained glass, amazing organ, and interesting museum and crypt. No doubt, it was wonderful to explore, and the hotel de ville in the same square is also a beautiful building. But, there is so much more to this place!
St. Denis is a culturally rich Arabic community, filled with so much color, electricity and life, I swear it was palpable!
As you exit the metro, a short walk through a covered passageway leads you to a huge covered marketplace. Think La Boqueria in Barcelona. There, you can find EVERYTHING from whole pigs, to lambs' heads, to fine cheese, to colorful spices...you get the picture. Although I was there just to poke around, it sure was bustling with everyday life.
An even bigger treat was that I was there on a Friday, which is also outdoor street market day. Hundreds and hundreds of merchants and shoppers gather in the town square, also right outside the metro station, to buy and sell their wares. Household goods, rug merchants, modern clothing, traditional colorful garb...you name it, they had it. It really was something to experience, and one I won't soon forget.
MENILIMONT AND BELLEVILLE
First thing I need to tell you is that I was born without an internal compass and I have NO sense of direction. I visited these two neighboring areas in the 20th arr. together, guidebook firmly in hand, but I was never entirely sure when I entered one area and passed through the other! They are in the very northeast part of the city, are very hilly and have high elevation, making for some beautiful vistas of the entire city below, and the Eiffel Tower, clear across the city.
Anyway, these are culturally diverse, highly residential neighborhoods, of varying architectural styles. There are rather regular looking apartment buildings surrounding beautiful parks, and more attractive apartment buildings down treelined passages,also lined with beautiful old streetlamps. There are also some of the narrowist alleyways in all of Paris, which are apparently old viaducts which used to carry water in another time when I think the area was rich farmland. They were interesting to see. What struck me the most were these few alleyways, or passages, of tiny, almost cottage-like homes, with ivy and floral vines winding up the exterior walls. I was amazed that a car could fit down the street, but it did!
The commercial areas are filled with ethnic restaurants and shops of all kinds. I had a particularly pleasant lunch at a TINY restaurant called La Petit Cave. Only about 6 tables, filled with friendly locals. I had a really tasty and aromatic tagine of chicken with potatoes, tomatoes and other vegetables, with all the warm bread I could eat to sop up the wonerful gravy, and a small carafe of tasty red wine, for 17.50 euros. The waiter was kind and helpful, and invited me back for lunch the next day!
Must get ready to leave now. More neighborhoods in my next installment.
Travelling alone is not for everyone. I hate to admit how much I adore it. It allows me a rare kind of indulgent freedom that I find precious. I do what I want, go where I want, explore as long as I want, walk as far as I want, and only when I want! Just can't be, nor would I want to be, that indulgent in every day life. But I find it exhilerating and enlightening. I return so refreshed and serene. I also enjoy my alone time, and, silly as it sounds, I get to know myself better!
In addition to a 100 page information guide put together by the apartment owners, another benefit of my apartment was the wide collection of Paris guide books available for my use. There were probably over 20, which covered various aspects of Paris travel...Rick Steves, Frommers, Pudlo's, side trip suggestions, walking guides, shopping guides, museums guides, etc. So, I picked up one or two, and off I went, to explore...
NEW NEIGHBORHOODS
ST. DENIS
Just north of the city, outside the peripherique, is the suburb of St. Denis. It is accessible by a short metro ride on the 13 line.
As a tourist, I believe the main attraction of this town is the beautiful, centuries old basilica (5th century, I believe), where every king since Charlemagne is buried. Amazing stained glass, amazing organ, and interesting museum and crypt. No doubt, it was wonderful to explore, and the hotel de ville in the same square is also a beautiful building. But, there is so much more to this place!
St. Denis is a culturally rich Arabic community, filled with so much color, electricity and life, I swear it was palpable!
As you exit the metro, a short walk through a covered passageway leads you to a huge covered marketplace. Think La Boqueria in Barcelona. There, you can find EVERYTHING from whole pigs, to lambs' heads, to fine cheese, to colorful spices...you get the picture. Although I was there just to poke around, it sure was bustling with everyday life.
An even bigger treat was that I was there on a Friday, which is also outdoor street market day. Hundreds and hundreds of merchants and shoppers gather in the town square, also right outside the metro station, to buy and sell their wares. Household goods, rug merchants, modern clothing, traditional colorful garb...you name it, they had it. It really was something to experience, and one I won't soon forget.
MENILIMONT AND BELLEVILLE
First thing I need to tell you is that I was born without an internal compass and I have NO sense of direction. I visited these two neighboring areas in the 20th arr. together, guidebook firmly in hand, but I was never entirely sure when I entered one area and passed through the other! They are in the very northeast part of the city, are very hilly and have high elevation, making for some beautiful vistas of the entire city below, and the Eiffel Tower, clear across the city.
Anyway, these are culturally diverse, highly residential neighborhoods, of varying architectural styles. There are rather regular looking apartment buildings surrounding beautiful parks, and more attractive apartment buildings down treelined passages,also lined with beautiful old streetlamps. There are also some of the narrowist alleyways in all of Paris, which are apparently old viaducts which used to carry water in another time when I think the area was rich farmland. They were interesting to see. What struck me the most were these few alleyways, or passages, of tiny, almost cottage-like homes, with ivy and floral vines winding up the exterior walls. I was amazed that a car could fit down the street, but it did!
The commercial areas are filled with ethnic restaurants and shops of all kinds. I had a particularly pleasant lunch at a TINY restaurant called La Petit Cave. Only about 6 tables, filled with friendly locals. I had a really tasty and aromatic tagine of chicken with potatoes, tomatoes and other vegetables, with all the warm bread I could eat to sop up the wonerful gravy, and a small carafe of tasty red wine, for 17.50 euros. The waiter was kind and helpful, and invited me back for lunch the next day!
Must get ready to leave now. More neighborhoods in my next installment.
