We just decided to add a week to our already planned Italy vacation next September and see some of Greece. It will be for the last week of August. We have never been to Greece; for this trip we want to focus on the islands. So, I would love some input from all you Greek experts on which islands you would recommend. I realize 1 week isn't much time; possibly only enough for 2 islands. For this trip, we are most interested in relaxing beaches and local color, with a little sight-seeing thrown in. Touring antiquities is not the focus this time. I am a foodie, so cuisine is a big way I enjoy and learn about the local culture. At the end of the trip we will be flying to Rome, if that makes a difference with the location selection. Thank you!

How far south will you be going in Italy? You could take the overnight ferry from Bari to Korfu, and after stay there continue on another overnight ferry to Patras. Thesde are big, cofortable boats, with cabins (or ailiner seats) and decent restaurants, etc. From Patras fly or go by bus to Athens and from Athens fly to Mykonos. Unfortunately, to fly from one island to another usually requires going through Athens.

Or fly from Italy to Athens, and fly to Mykonos and perhaps either to Crete or Santorini.

There is also a nice day trip from Pireus (Athens) by boat or hydrofoil to the island of Aigina.

Except for the overnight ferry, going to the other islands bo boat or ferry take probably more time on the water than younwant to spend.

Are your flights all booked, or canm you change them to an open jaw, with return home from Athens?

You need to tell us how you will be arriving in Greece, as well as departing. If you arrive by plane, your best bet is not to leave the airport, but to fly OUT immediately to the island of choice. Therefore, it is important not only to know the DATE you hope to arrive, but the TIME of day. That's because some of the choicer islands will have only one flight per day (due to short runways, small planes, limited revenue potential). Let's look at your 3 expressed priorities: relaxing beaches, local color, good cuisine.

BEACHES -- You do realize, we hope, that August is HIGH Season. In the last week of August, while the Greek families with schoolchildren will be departing, all the popular islands will still be HEAVING, as the Brits say, with throngs of Europeans who all take their month's vacation at the same time, leap into AirBus charter flights and dump 500 people per plane on islands. So.... "Relaxing beaches"... that's a challenge, if by that, you mean less populated ones.

CUISINE -- as a "foodie," you want to be within easy (walking?) distance of a selection of authentic good tavernas (that's what the Greeks call their informal restaurants). The beaches that would be least populated would tend to have few eating spots. This means you may need to consider car rental... to get your desired "relaxing" experience on a less- frequented beach, then go to a busier area for your dining.

LOCAL COLOR -- Greeks are Greeks, so you'll find some colorful ones no matter where... in the heart of Athens even. But in the most-promoted places (Mykonos, Santorini, and "resorts" in places like Corfu, North beaches of Crete, certain areas of Rhodes), the tourist influx really overwhelms everything in High Season... in some places, lots of the help in hotels & resturants prove to be Balkan. You'll be better off going to NON-resort islands, or less-frequented areas in other islands... IF they have the beaches you want.

SUGGESTIONS -- Islands with flights, which also have good walking opportunities, not overwhelmed with tourism, have small villages to explore, and interesting cuisine.

NAXOS -- Medusa REsort -- http://www.medusaresort.gr/ it's pricey but lovely, and on one of the best beaches, about a half-mile beyond the last bus stop... so beach likely not crowded. You will rent a car to enjoy the many restaurants in Naxos Town, about a 20-minute drive. You could also drive to the bus stop &leave your car; the busses run until midnight (that's in case you have a glass of wine or 4!). ONE fllight per day to Naxos. Naxos is a Cycladic island with those "calendar foto" white houses w. blue shutters. It's also got some of the best walking trails in the Cycladic isles.

SAMOS -- Studios JOanna http://www.studiosioanna.com/ -- This is simple accommodation overlooking a beach in a small quiet village of Limnionas, in the southwest corner of Samos. There are 3-4 major "resort" areas packed with Europeans in August, but not near here. 2-3 fiights per day. Western Samos has wonderful walking opportunities thru tiny village. With a week, you could perhaps do a 2-day trip to Unique CHIOS, nearby but with eccentric ferry connections.

MILOS -- http://www.milos-island.gr/rooms-apa.../pollonia.html -- Milos never gets overwhelmed because its accommodations are finite: when its hotels & apts are full, then people can't come (no beach-sleeping allowed). So it means you need to book ahead... It has dozens of lovely beaches... Pollonia is one that has many studio units on or very near the sands; mainly self-catering, but there are tavernas and cafes, so you can eat all meals out. 2 -3 flights per day. If you went to Milos, you could spend 4 days there, then go to one of the next islands in that chain, Sifnos or Serifos (1 hr/2 hrs away). But you would then have to take a fast-ferry back to Piraeus, the athens port, because those 2 isles have no airport.

Here's a good visual overview of Greek islands, by a GREEK: http://www.greek-islands.us/

Travelerjan - thank you so much for this wealth of information! The Greek islands site will keep me busy for days! As far as our timing, we are flexible because flights have not yet been made. The only dates that can't change are Sept. 3-10, as we are renting a Tuscan villa with friends. We could go on to Greece on the 10th, I was just concerned about things closing down and transportation schedules being cut back in September. It looks like the weather would still be desirable at that time.
I can open-jaw my flights, flying into Rome and home from Athens.

gabrielle4cb, travelerjan has given you some great info. She's right about August. If you can go to Greece in September, that would be perfect. In my opinion, May/first half of June and September are the ideal times to go to the islands. I would avoid August.

High season on the Greek Islands really ends around the 20th of August, although it is still busy until the beginning of September. The last week of August is great! By the 10th of September it will be getting quiet, but most hotels and restaurants are still open. Weather will be more dependable in August, but September is still very nice.

So it all depends on your point of view -- do you prefer vibrant or quiet? I speak as someone who has been on the Greek Islands every month from May to September. I live in a quiet English village, and prefer the Greek Islands when there is still a bit of life in them. My favorite times are late June and late August.

Travelerjan and wug, how many times have you been to the Greek Islands in August?

Glad to hear you could make it early September ... and yes, most transport will still be good. If you come back to Fodor's with more questions, it would be helpful if you are more specific about the ambience you hope for and what the luxury level is ... and please don't say "really nice" or "comfortable" or even how many stars. In Greece, not useful. Give a ballpark estimate in EUROs of what you want to pay per night ... and whether a pool is required as well as being next to/near a beach. Also, in Greece it's helpful to know if you're good with a double bed or twin side-by-sides... to get Queen beds in Greece means a luxe hotel... which often means u must go to a largish international-styel hotel, which I'm guessing is not your wish.

As for villas, not so many villas on beaches so don't ask... they tend to be more recent in vintage and thus inland. Greece did not have wealthy landowners like TUscany, so most island dwelling in the past were modest. So luxe is recent -- and not usually right on the sand, because the sand was occupied by small family-run hotels, not resorts.

Heimdall, I have not been in August, but have been on the very first week in Sept, and it was still crowded in several places including Santorini. I have advised many people who have been required to go in late july and August because of family schedules (teachers, and also kids whose schools start Sept 1 or so). They've given direct feedback to me, about places that I enjoyed in May & June being very crowded when they went to the same places. Heimdall, maybe late August IS better, I defer to your greater experience ... however I do remember that when you are there in Late august you may be staying on Antiparos, which is very low-key, and does not attract the package-tour crowds.

And of course, as you say it all depends on whether the inquirer wants Humming, or Quiet. If she is from New York City or DC or Boston, in a high-power high-stress job, perhaps she does not want vibrancy ... there again we are playing a guessing game because she does not share where she lives. I quote myself: the better the info, the better the advice!

Thank you for admitting your information on August is second-hand. Antiparos is heaving during the first three weeks of August -- people sleep on the beach because all accommodation is full -- Antiparos doesn't need package tours. But the last week of the month is magical! Other larger islands have more hotels, restaurants, etc., so the pressure is less intense. Not everyone who goes to the Greek Islands in August has children in school -- some people actually prefer it.

Thanks travelerjan and Heimdall for the different perspectives.
My preferences? I would choose vibrant over quiet, I suppose. I live near Santa Cruz, California, and frequent San Francisco often, both of which are tourist destinations, so I am not uncomfortable with crowds. I don't mind some tourists; after all, I am one, but I would prefer the Greeks out-number the tourists. (And I do get very irritated with tourists who expect for things to be just like they are back home!)
Accommodations -- I would like to be within walking distance to the beach, then wouldn't need a pool. Twin beds side-by-side are fine if it gets me closer to the beach for a better price. I'm hoping for something around 150 Euros a night, if that's doable.

Hi Gabrielle,

I prefer not to play the 'which island' game, and seldom recommend my favorite island, Antiparos -- hey, why spoil a good thing? Travelerjan made the classic mistake of thinking that small islands are "very low-key" during August, when in fact the opposite is true. Try, for example, showing up on Folegandros or Koufonissi in August without a room reservation and you will probably be taking the next boat out. Larger islands have more accommodation, and are a safer bet during high season unless you have your hotel bookings locked in well in advance. After the 20th of August Athenians begin to return home, and the islands change from manic to just busy -- that's why I like the last week of August so much. ;-)

Now, as I understand it, you will be holidaying in Italy, and want to return to Rome after a week in the Greek Islands. To make the most of your available time, it would be best to fly straight to Athens and take a connecting flight to an island. Mykonos, Santorini, Crete, Rhodes, and several other islands have several flights each day with Olympic Air and Aegean Airlines. Naxos has one flight per day, leaving in the morning, and Paros has three flights per day (these latter two are served by Dash 8-100s, which can take only about 30 passengers).

My recommendation would be to choose Paros or Naxos for the first island, then Santorini for the second. It would be convenient to fly from Santorini to Athens for a connecting flight to Rome.

Back to Antiparos for a moment: the majority of visitors during August are Greek, and there are three or four beaches within 15 minutes walk of Antiparos Town. Stay at the other end of the island in San Giorgio, and it is less developed, but has the best beaches: http://www.dolphinantiparos.gr/. This is the area where Tom Hanks and other celebs have their villas.

NAXOS I suggest you take a look at this TA thread -- http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic..._Cyclades.html it also contains praise for a place on Prokopios Beach, which I've bookmarked, LIana Studios. I really like the beach at Prokopios but my beef n the past is that so many nice accomms are way back from the water, you have to walk down a road... but this apparently has property fronting right on the water even has a pool ... rates seem quite reasonable for high season.

if you want NAXOS' Plaka beach, look at Aronis ... very basic, clean as whistle, at end of bus line, right on beach... and runs a fab taverna with all organic produce & meat from the family's farm .. http://aronisnaxos.com/index%20en.html VERY naxian.

About "greeks outnumber the tourists" , not gonna happen in August... but at least in Naxos and Paros, the wait-staff in the tavernas, and the help in the family hotels will be Uncle Kostas, or those little nieces Eleni and Kiki, not someone from the Balkans or more obscure ex-USSR states.

Great references! So many choices! But planning travel is part of the fun! I think I've narrowed down my choices to Milos, Naxos, Paros/Antiparos, and Santorini. I suppose staying on 3 islands in one week is trying to do too much; do you agree? I can add an extra day for arrival in Athens. Is it feasible to stay on Naxos or Paros and visit the other for the day?

If you really do want beaches then Santorini can work as long as you don't mind driving. Santorini seems to have an unofficial demarcation line through it. Americans and Australians mostly stay on the calderra side of the island where there are fabulous views but no beaches. A 20 minute drive to the other side will reveal beaches and accommodation that seems to be mostly booked by Brits and Germans.

The calderra side of Santorini is packed on a daily basis with the seething masses from the cruise ships that anchor in the harbour below. They all disappear at about 5pm.

It is possible to stay on three islands in a week, but you will lose the better part of a day on travel each time you transfer from one to another. If you limit yourself to Santorini and one other island you will actually see more, as you won't be using as much time checking in and out of hotels, waiting for ferries, etc.

You can do a day trip from either Paros or Naxos to see the other, as there are several daily ferries between the two islands, and the trip takes only an hour each way. It is also possible to take day trips from either Paros or Naxos to Delos/Mykonos (a popular excursion), and to Iraklia/Koufonissi (two small islands in the Little Cyclades). My recommendation would be to choose either Paros or Naxos and take the day trip to Delos/Mykonos.

Here is my tentative itinerary:

~Arrive Athens, overnight there or catch afternoon
flight or ferry to Paros
~4 nights Paros or Antiparos with day trips to other islands
~Ferry to Santorini, 3 nights there
~Fly to Athens

It looks like I can't make island flights this early, so I have time for tweaking this itinerary.
Now, on to finding lodging. Heimdall, the Hotel Dolphin looks good; thank you for the website. Travelerjan, I will definitely go to the Aronis Taverna when I am in Naxos; that's just the kind of suggestions I'm looking for ~ thanks!

Hi Gabrielle,

That looks like a good itinerary to me. A few suggestions:

If you intend flying to Paros, keep an eye on the Olympic Air website and book your flights as soon as they appear. Olympic flies three flights per day in summer, but due to runway length the Dash 8-100 aircraft can take only about 30 pax on the flights to Paros (fewer on the way back to Athens). Seats are snapped up quickly for August flights.

Likewise, if you take the ferry it would be a good idea to book seats in advance, but you have more time to do it. Ferries leaving Piraeus in the last week of August almost always have some empty seats, but why take a chance? The trick is: wait until all the ferry schedules are published before making your booking - jump too soon and you won't see all the departures. Blue Star Ferries publish it's summer timetables well in advance, but Hellenic Seaways usually waits until May to publish it's summer highspeed timetables. Were I to take an afternoon ferry, my preference would be the highspeed.

Whether to stay on Paros or Antiparos is a matter of taste. Paros has more to see and do, while Antiparos is a place to relax and enjoy. From either Paros or Antiparos it is easy to reach the other. I enjoy staying on Antiparos and going to Paros when the urge strikes me, but most people do it the other way round.

Dolphin Hotel is at the southern end of Antiparos, where most development is expensive villas, with only a few hotels and restaurants. That end of the island has the best beaches, which are sheltered from Meltemi winds. In August buses run every couple of hours from morning to evening, but if you want to get freely about you will need to rent a car (the driver will need an IDP). Antiparos is only about 12 km from end-to-end, and the road is well paved. If you prefer to stay where there are more shops and restaurants then it would be better to choose Antiparos Town.

For the end of your trip you will have to decide whether to stop overnight in Athens for some sightseeing or fly by connecting flights directly from Santorini to Rome. Book your connecting flights together and the airline will be obligated to get you on the next available flight if there is a delay leaving Santorini. My choice, though, would be to go straight to the islands at the beginning of the trip, and save at least one night for Athens at the end.

Enjoy planning your trip, and if I can be of any further help, fire away!

Heimdall has taken you by the hand, and given you step-by-step advice you lucky person. '

I'm glad u like the sound of Aronis Taverna, but according to your schedule you now will not be staying in Naxos. Well,... maybe next time. If you do a day trip to Naxos, you'll have your hands full just exploring Naxos Town! if you wanted to see the countryside on a day trip ... you would need to get to the Island early (not easy on regular ferry) and rent a car. Be realistic, and you'll be more relaxed, and enjoy the serendipities as they come, not feverish checking off a to-do list. Enjoy your dream trip!

Thank you, travelerjan; I know I will enjoy my trip! I do know what you mean about enjoying the serendipities that make travel magical, but thanks for the reminder. In the planning phase, it's easy to get carried away and want to do it all as you are researching all that there is to do. I can tell from your posts here and elsewhere, you have a love for Greece and are a great resource. I'm sure as the year progresses, I will post more questions and would love your input.

Heimdall, thank you for the advice regarding the flights and ferries. It's a bit like a puzzle trying to fit it all together in order to maximize every precious minute! I will be diligently watching for schedules! And yes, I would love your further assistance as the trip planning continues. You, also, have an appreciation and wealth of detailed knowledge of Greece that is fabulous!

Aren't Fodor's forums great! Being able to share travel experiences with other travelers throughout the world has enriched my travels immensely. I think back to my first trip to Europe 25 years ago ~ I went to the travel agent and she planned the trip! This personal approach yields the best rewards!