Provence - finally!!

We had been planning this trip for awhile and got sidetracked. Went to Venice in May instead, but I keep being drawn to seeing this place!

We will have 10 days, 9 nights, coming from the states. I assume we fly into Marseille.

Our thoughts are to spend 2 nights in Aix, then drive to the Luberon and spend 3 nights there, then over to St. Remy for 3 nights, then back to Aix for 1 more night so we are close to the airport.

Does this make sense? We want to see Aix, Lourmarin, Bonnieux, Gordes, Menerbes, St. Remy, Les Baux, Roussillon, and if there is time, I'd love to see L'Isle Sur La Sorgue.

I'd rather rent a house for a week, but we're trying to avoid alot of back and forth driving.

Any hotel recommendations appreciated as well. I have a short list, but would like suggestions. We like to be close to or in town whenever possible. Budget @ $250/night US or less.

Do you know about www.moulindegreoux.com - owned by a poster on this board?

I think your itinerary sounds perfect.

It's a great itinerary. If you like antiques, as I do, don't miss L'isle sur la sorgue on a Sunday. Great little cafes along the canal, and make sure, if you like churches, that you walk the few blocks to a really stunning church. Very ornate and atypical, I thought, of the region.

For a place to stay, I loved the Chateau de Roussan near St. Remy. I know the people who post here and on tripadvisor are divided on the place. Some think it's dirty. I thought it was absolute heaven, with a lovely, romantic garden with statuary and swans in canals that run through the grounds and a house of perfect, raffish provencal authenticity. That was about 2 years ago. Check out their website.

Just a couple of things: St. Remy makes a fine base, but I thought the town itself was comparatively dull and not so attractive. Do make sure that when you're in the area you go to the Monastery outside of town where Van Gogh convalesced for a while. All Van Gogh association's aside, I thought its cloister was absolutely stunning. One of my favorite places ever.

Also, I found the hill towns, while gorgeous, to be very similar. I had them all on my list, to do in a day (which may have been the problem), but found after two (Bonnieux and Menerbes)that I was at my saturation point. Better to choose a couple and spend some time perhaps. Just a thought...

Whatever you decide, you're gonna love it!

Hi Wanderer. St. Cirq is right on the money regarding Moulin de Greoux--we stayed there for 4 nights last September and loved it. It was everything we expected and more. I just finished posting my trip report if you want to read more about it.

For the Luberon, I can recommend Le Clos du Buis in Bonnieux as a great place to stay as well (also mentioned in more detail in my trip report.)

Your itinerary looks great; you'll have a wonderful time.

Thanks for everyone's help.

I neglected to say that we also want to see Avignon, and wanted to know if Arles should be added to our list?

What town would be most central to stay in the Luberon? I kind of have my heart set on Gordes, and looked at Bastide de Gordes. I like that it is right in town.

I've read that the Roussan has gotten run down lately, and I know they have alot of cats, of which my husband is allergic.

Has anyone stayed at Cabre d'Or (?sp).

Driving in Provence is fun, and if you rent a house in a central location, you can easily do day trips to most of the places you'd like to visit. Your rental would probably be for a week, so you could then schedule a few nights in a location that's a bit distant from your home base. You can also soak up the feel of a small town. We loved Venasque, where there is a charming town circle, a few good restaurants, and easy access to Avignon, L'Isle Sur La Sorgue (lovely town; I agree with the poster who advised you to go on Sunday...that's the day of the outdoor market, sort of a general festival), all of the Luberon, etc. Check out rentals in Venasque at www.france.co.nz John Reese's properties are quite nice.

Our favorite place to stay is Les trois Figurers.fr They have a web site with pictures and prices. We stay here every time we go to Provance. It is heaven! Very central for everywhere you want to go also. It is a B&B and they have a family dinner every evening with all who stay here.

You asked about the Luberon, one of my favorite places is in Lourmarin.

http://www.style-luberon.com/heberg_stlouis.htm

We have enjoyed our stays at the Bastide de Capelongue, which is just outside of Bonnieux. Marvelous views of the town and mountains to the west from the dining room, terrace and pool areas. Good meals although the service might seem a little unpolished to those who can tell the difference. Smallish rooms, but ther is one wih handicapped access [Simione] that is very roomy and has a private patio. There are four roads leading out of Bonnieux, so that in making excursions you can loop around without being stuck going back and forth on the main road.

Where are you flying from? That would make a difference. If it's from Paris, for example, you would do better to take the TGV directly to Aix.

Flight is originating from Boston.

I imagine there is a connection in Paris.

Why easier to take train rather than fly to Marseille and drive? Wouldn't that be quicker?

I stayed at the Calendal in Arles and can heartily recommend it--especially for it's lovely garden. The Nord Pinus is a very celebrated hotel in Arles. What I loved about Arles was 1) the Cathedral which is a wonderful Romanesque church, very dark and atmospheric 2)the square in front of the Nord Pinus with the statue of Mistral and lots of good outdoors cafes and 3) the Hotel Calendal which I mentioned above. Other than that, I didn't love Arles as much as Avignon or L'isle sur sorgue or the Luberon or Aix. A bit dull, and not as charming as any of those places.

guy, I'm sorry you didnt like Arles that much. We have stayed at both the Nord Pinus and the Calendal. Julius Caesar founded this town. The Arena is very special 1900 years old and still in use. The Museum Arlaten founded by Mistral shows how the the Arles life-style was over the centuries. There are so many good restos, shops, and, cafes and so near to many other sights and the Camargue and Uzes and the Pond du Gard.

If you're coming directly from the U.S. and can fly into Marseille, that's certainly the best way. I just wasn't clear on your plans.

It's not that I didn't like Arles, Cigal. The things I mentioned about it made my time there more than worthwhile. Just preferred some of those other places...

St. Remy area hotel choices are (not in any particular order):

1) Mas de l'Oulivie
2) Maison Bournissac
3) Riboto-de-Taven

The Mas de l'Oulivie looks a little "motelish" to us, and the cave-like rooms of the Riboto kind of creep me out (I hate caves). Perhaps not all the rooms are like that.

Can anyone comment on these choices? Best one for location, price, ambience?

Re: your question on Gordes. It's not a large town. While staying at Les Romarin (sp) we looked at the Bastide in Gordes. For about a 6 minute walk down the hill you can get a lower price and still a stellar view FWIW.

Check out the Hotel Ville Verte - Gounod in St-Rémy for another lovely choice.

Why relocate so much in Provence?..If you base out of St. Remy you can travel to most desired destinations by car from 1-2 hours. I would also recommend renting a villa/cottage with all the comforts of home for less than 250 US a night. St Remy is an incredible town and the day trips are very convenient from there. Let me know if you want the name of a great villa that is situated less than a 5 minute walk to the Roman ruins in Glanum and a 10 minute walk (3 minute drive) to the center of St Remy.