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Help with possible Romania trip

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Old Jun 22nd, 2010, 05:53 AM
  #41  
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Clifton, I can't thank you enough for your wealth of information! Between you and tower (Stu has been kind enough to email me with lots of information as well) its been so helpful.

I love the idea of training to Brasov! I never even considered it. I don't really have any interest in Bucharest, but my husband was nervous about driving at night. Since we wouldn't even get in until 4:15 (and that's assuming the flight is on time) by the time we got our luggage and the car...it would just be too late. I would much, much, much rather start in Brasov! I'll have to do more research on the train system in Romania.

Hmmmm...there is so much to see! I'm thinking that we may cut out the Bucovina part of the trip. I would rather have some time to explore and I'm worried that if we do the above itinerary it would leave little time for anything unexpected that may interest us. We like stumbling across interesting villages that may not be in our guidebooks, or stopping to take pictures of scenery or whatever. Medias sounds interesting! I do think the painted monasteries look pretty and interesting, but I think I would rather spend my time in the Maramures area. I'm kind of worried that after I see one or two painted monasteries that I would kind of be over it and want to move on! Sad but true. Sometimes I think I have the attention span of a 2 year old! We enjoy sights, obviously, but usually our best times are just spent walking around and experiencing the overall "feeling" of a city or town or place, if that makes sense. We don't always have to be doing something in particular to have a good time.

Is there much to see in between Sighisoara and Sighet? It looks like that would be a longer drive, so it would be great if we could include a few places to stop to make it more enjoyable. And it sounds like Sighet is a good place to base ourselves...is this correct?

Thank you!!!
Tracy
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Old Jun 22nd, 2010, 08:43 AM
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Ah, Stu's great, isn't he? We share a love of both Romania and Morocco and have chit chatted back and forth about those on email.

Well, I will confess to a gap between Sighisoara and Sighet that I don't know enough about. We'd run out there for day trips and what we saw was farming roads and wineries. They make some really nice dry Reislings in that area. But not a whole lot of things to draw us un, unlike to the east and south of Sighisoara. And on the Maramurs side, just so you know... once you get out of the time-locked Maramures proper, it does get industrial looking. Mostly just south and west of there. For instance, Baia Mare & Satu Mare have a lot of mining activities. I believe Baia Mare actually means "Big Mine".

So with that in mind, Sighet is about your only real option for accommodation around there unless you were doing a home stay. I'm sorry I'm not more help with suggesting stops while getting there. We came around the other way, through Bucovina, then left right out of Maramures and back in to Hungary.

I do get what you're saying about the monasteries and wearing out. Anything can be like that unless you're a real aficionado of something. The monasteries are actually similar in many ways - it's the theme of the painting that's different. So in a lot of ways, your time is spent studying the murals. Well, beyond enjoying the setting in the hills, with the nuns working.

Ok, anyway... in Maramures - you have the villages. Ieud and Poienile Izei stick in my memory most, but take the car and a map just weave around on the back roads back there. Stop when you see a brown wooden chuch steeple. You'll definitely get your "slice of life". In Sapanta, you have the must-see Merry Cemetery. They do charge a small fee there. Worth it, IMO and not built just to collect the fee. It's just a poor area and it's their only claim to fame. In Barsana is a not old but looks old traditional monastery of the Maramures building style. You can go in different buildings and have a look around and the nuns just sort of work around you.

When I started typing, I said it was going to be a fast post because it was after 2am. Now it's realllly after 2am! Take care.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2010, 11:16 AM
  #43  
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Clifton, I hope you are in bed asleep right now! Thank you so much again!

Stu is wonderful. He was kind enough to email me with information on our trip to Turkey last year, and mailed me some wonderful highlighted maps, and we've kept in touch. He stumbled upon this post when I first posted it and has been giving me advice and sending me pictures. Between the two of you who needs a travel agency?!

Is the Maramures area pretty? Well, not counting the mines of course. I do love gorgeous scenery so that would be a bonus, although not a deal breaker. And finally, if we drive up there from Sighisoara will two nights be enough or should we allot for more time? There are several flights each day from Baia Mare to Bucharest, so I'm thinking that maybe we'll take a later evening flight so we would still have the whole day in the area before getting to Bucharest. So if we do two nights, I *think* that should give us at least two full days, plus the driving day from Sighisoara.

We will have an earlier morning flight out of Bucharest so I'm thinking that we may just bypass Bucharest altogether and just stay near the airport for that final night once we fly in. As I said above, I don't really have much interest in Bucharest itself. I've heard some okay things about it, but there is just too much to see in Romania to want to stay in a big communist-era city!
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Old Jun 22nd, 2010, 03:24 PM
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I think Maramures is very pretty. Sort of old fashioned farm pretty. Two days I think is about right. It's interesting, but there really isn't a place to sort of linger over a cup of coffee, etc except back in Sighet. I mean, these really are small villages with no tourist infrastructure. This is my gallery of Romania photos, and the first one is in Maramures and very typical of the area.

http://www.travelisfatal.com/gallery...show&gazgal=12

Sighet is more of a slightly sprawling more modern town, which when there, you'll see why that's a good thing for a casual visitor.

If you look at this map image, -- http://www.romanianmonasteries.org/r...amures_map.jpg -- your "sweet spot" is north of Desesti (the second "s" should be one with a little tail on it, which sounds like "sh". Medias is like that too, so that it's actually pronounced med-EE-ash).

Then Ieud is your far west (and most authentic feeling) point and Sapanta your far east. There's a few areas around Romania, usually coming into cities, where it almost reminds me of Granite City, IL (bet you have a visual now). But if you're in that box, you won't see much if any of the old communist era grey boxes.

You will see that shades of that grey coming into Brasov and Sighisoara and it CAN feel grim on the way in. Just FYI. Push on to the center and it'll change as you go.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2010, 03:42 PM
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Clifton, I had a pretty good laugh at your Granite City comment! This is bad, but my husband and I often reference Granite City when stumbling across various towns...we call them "Granite-esque"! My parents were born and Raised in Granite City and that smell from the steel factory is forever embedded in my brain.

So, when you say "old fashioned farm pretty" we aren't talking southern Illinois cornfield farm pretty, are we? I'm envisioning the areas I grew up in...Troy, Glen Carbon, Lebanon. They are pretty, especially now that I am in NC and don't see too many farms, but I admit I'm not sure if I'm looking for that on my European vacation!
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Old Jun 22nd, 2010, 03:44 PM
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By the way, I forgot to mention that your pictures are gorgeous! I only wish I could take a decent picture. If I do its usually either by accident or because the scenery is so pretty that it's hard to take a bad picture. I'm envious! And congrats about the Lonely Planet guide!
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Old Jun 22nd, 2010, 05:42 PM
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Thanks on the nice pic comments. I used to be able to work on those a little more, before you know who came along. lol

Granite City is etched in my mind too. lol. I just mention it so that so you know. I think there are some people on the boards I would never, ever recommend Romania to. I think some expect that picture postcard approach to a fairy tale looking village (except you get there and the village is a nearly a themed park of souvenir shops, gourmet food and bottle shops and overly precious cafes and pastisseries and galleries. Beautiful and definitely comfy for the tourists. Some people like that. I can see the beauty, and I don't mind good food and wine, but the presentation sort of makes me feel... hmmm... like a customer, rather than a visitor.

Coming into Brasov, or Medias or Sighisoara won't be like that, and it won't be like that once you're in the old own either. So I thought it might be worth mentioning to whoever else picks up your thread later when doing research. They built a lot of grim grey block buildings in the 50's-80s surrounding the old centers. But even that's a new experience.

Hmmm, in Maramures, well these are villages who definitely make their living off of agriculture. Probably more hilly than metro IL, but it's not dramatic scenery. Romania has some stunning mountain scenery, but it sort of wraps in a hook around the southern boundary of Transylvania and then heads north to separate eastern Transylvania from Bucovina. Maramures is more gentle hills and winding one lane roads. You see people farming, but it's by hand. Horse plows, wooden rakes. So a different. Maybe Glen Carbon of 200 yrs ago (although the look is different). If you see the land behind the couple in that pic, that's what a lot of it looks like.

Now... if you're looking for major league 'wow' scenery in Romania, as in dramatic mountain views, I'd say it's the Trans-fagerean road south from near Sibiu. Lots of winding mountain road there. And the Bicaz Gorge, as I mentioned earlier is on the way from central Transylvania to Bucovina. Even the area you'll pass through from Bucharest to Brasov is over the mountains. Sinaia is a ski area in fact. Bran is very hilly, as is Rasnov, the old hilltop fortress just up the road.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2010, 08:25 PM
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You know... I started looking over old pics. Ones never good enough in my opinion to post, but still worth keeping for memories. And Maramures is a lot more hilly and scenic that I remembered. I think I was comparing it to the very big mountains in the south, but... it's pretty.

Then I got to thinking. Anymore, you can find video of almost anything on Youtube, so I looked. And I found a few videos that shows Maramures "live"... I thought you might like this one though. Quite a few shots of the landscape, churches and costumes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6khGsPlpVs
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Old Jun 23rd, 2010, 04:36 AM
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I really appreciate your honesty! I too prefer more "real" destinations instead of those picture-perfect towns that cater to only tourists. While they are pretty, they aren't very authentic. I think the main reason we want to visit Romania is its authenticity.

I loved that video! And the music was absolutely gorgeous! I have my girls in the room with me and they stopped what they were doing to listen to it at first. I do think the region is very pretty with its rolling green hills. I like the feel of the area, from what I saw and read. And interesting...I never even thought to check out youtube for vacation information!
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Old Jun 26th, 2010, 12:37 PM
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Dear Tracy,
I have read your long posts and change my mind few times

I work as a tour guide in Romania, so I hope you don't mind advices.
First of all 7 days seems short for all the regions you wish to see. I will normally say the North (with Maramures & Bucovina) or the south-east Transylvania.
Adding flights will help you a lot.
If you are not too tired you can fly the same evening to Baia Mare (one flight only, in the evening 20:55, not flying Fri, Sat) and stay in Baia Mare overnight.
1st night Baia Mare
2nd night Sighet
3rd night Sighet
4th night Gura Humorului
5th night Gura Humorului
6th night Sighisoara
7th nigth Brasov
You should really add a day or two at least!
From Maramures to Bucovina you drive about 5 hours over the pass, from Bucovina to Sighisoara you do about 7 hours over Bicaz Gorge (a road very well described by Clifton and definitly you should take it instead of boring Sighisoara - Sighet!). You can stay in Brasov your last night, if you have a late flight. The drive from Brasov to OTP takes 3 hours (but count more in case of road work, accident, etc)

Clifton, I love your webiste "Travel is fatal" and I envy you for the pictures. I am a keen photographer myself: have a look to my pictures: http://www.myromania.com.ro/index.php/photos.html
But, its only from Romania and I did no work on them.
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Old Jun 26th, 2010, 12:49 PM
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one nice hotel to stay at is
panzio lobogo in homorodfurdo
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Old Jun 26th, 2010, 12:50 PM
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http://www.lobogo.ro/
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Old Jun 26th, 2010, 10:31 PM
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Tracy, I don't know why, but one day on YouTube I typed "driving in XXX" to see what road conditions looked like around there. Since then, it's rare the place that someone hasn't video'd and uploaded.

Ramona - you sure do have a way with photos, especially of people. Your candid shots are wonderful. Thanks for sharing them. You're very lucky to live so near such beautiful scenery and interesting people.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2010, 02:56 AM
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Hi Fodorites!
I've been reading reviews and forum discussions here for quite a while now and throughout time I found many of your advice very useful during my trips.

This is the first time I am actually asking for advice. I have arrived in Romania last week already and, given that I’ll stay here until November, I would really like to take advantage and visit the Maramures and Bucovine regions. I have to say, Clifton really convinced me this is the right choice for me. Unfortunately, as I came here for business, I don’t have time to organize the tour all by myself. In addition to that, I have already asked for some offers to several travel agencies.
The first who answered is a travel agency located in Cluj-Napoca, called Pan Travel. And here is my question: has any of you heard about them? Searching on the Internet I found out they have really good references in other travel guides such as Lonely Planet or Rough Guide. Moreover, they also seem to have quite a good feedback on their website as well (not to mention their tour guide who really sounds like a very knowledgeable guy).

If you recommend them too, next week I’ll accept their offer and sign with them. I wouldn’t wanna miss the autumn leaves

Waiting for your expert advice! Thanks!
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Old Sep 22nd, 2010, 04:55 AM
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Sorry, I don't know about this agency. I write you because you like autumn leaves. Where you stay in Romania? If you are in Bucharest or not far from there, you can have a day trip to Cheia. There is nearby a small mountain, called Muntele Rosu, meaning "Red Mountain", because the color of the trees there in the autumn.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2010, 04:01 PM
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Sorry, I haven't heard of them either RyeCatcher. We were on our own with a rental car, so I don't have any background there with agencies.

If you like the price and what the guy has to say (and you're SURE this is the guy who'll be taking you around), at least it *sounds* like you're on the right track. I guess from other trips in other places, all I could suggest is that you're all very clear about the plans and how you feel about being taken for "shopping", etc. The commission thing, which I haven't heard is a big problem in Romania but it sure is a pain in the butt in Asia sometimes and has soured a couple of what would have otherwise been nice guide experiences.

Hope you're having fun.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2010, 04:54 PM
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I don't know them either. I had a very bad experience with my guide in that part of Romania, so I would suggest very limited money up front, and a back-up plan if they don't work out.
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Old Sep 23rd, 2010, 05:07 AM
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Thanks for the tip Valtor. I’m actually staying in Bucharest and now I’m really considering going to see the Red Moutain. Thanks again!
Clifton, I know what you mean with the shopping commission. It happened to me in Tunisia and Egypt. Hopefully, Romania will prove to be a brave exception
Thursdaysd, I’ve read about your experience with the guide from hell. That’s exactly the reasons why I asked about this particular travel agency, to make sure. I’ll try to keep my back covered. Thanks for your advice!
I am a bit disappointed you have heard about this travel agency. I still haven’t got an answer from any other travel agency and I’m seriously thinking of signing with them. I’ll get back to you with the impressions. Thanks again everyone!
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Old Sep 25th, 2010, 02:57 AM
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Rye, I remembered something that can help: I know a very good and serious driver, who takes many times tourists in tours in Romania. He knows also good places to sleep and to eat. He was our driver in 2000 and we loved him, recommended them to friends who also said then that he was very good. His name is Viorel Iabcu, he lived in Ploiesti (60 Km from Bucharest). His email is [email protected]
You can say him that you have his address from Liliana Victor.
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Old Sep 27th, 2010, 05:22 AM
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Fortunately, Romania has very genuine tourism potential, but unfortunately no one deals build on it so happens in <a href="http://www.inchirierimasini.info/satumare"> Satu Mare </a>, in which there are many tourist attractions as the Synagogue, Fire Tower, the Reformed Church, but nobody starduie to make known a great number of tourists.
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