Help with possible Romania trip
 

We are considering a trip to Romania for next May and I'm so confused. I've been wanting to go to Romania for quite awhile but I've never really researched and now that I have I'm looking for some advice. We will only have a week, and will be flying FF miles, hopefully into Bucharest unless someone tells me there are better options. Anyways, here goes:

1) We are interested in the areas of Transylvania (castles, Sibiu, Sighisoara, etc.), Maramures and Bucovina. I would love to see the painted monestaries. I know we cannot visit each of these areas in a single trip. Would someone that's been to each area tell me which they would prefer, and why?

2) If we did want to do Bucovina or Maramures, how would we get there? Drive times seem long (using viamichelin.com). Are there smaller airports we could fly into from Bucharest? Trains? Would Budapest be closer?

3) How is Romania in May? I don't mind a bit of rain and chilly weather, but I don't want it to be pouring down rain the entire time we are there. I know it's impossible to predict the weather, but I'm hoping someone who has been in May can chime in.

Thank you!
Tracy

1) Considering your two options I'd say visit Maramures and Bucovina (you can do them both in a week), these regions are 'more' unique than southern Transylvania (that's the part with old cities, castles etc.).

2) There are airports in Baia Mare (Maramures) and Suceava (Bucovina). Baia Mare has flights from Bucharest, while Suceava has flights from Bucharest, Timisoara (a large city in western Romania), Rome and Venice.

There are trains to these regions from various parts of Romania (from Bucharest there are 3-4 trains daily to Maramures and 7-8 trains to Bucovina); travel times are relatively long.

Budapest is slightly closer to Maramures than Bucharest, but further away to Bucovina.

You could also fly into Cluj Napoca (largest city in Transylvania), it gets flights from several European cities and it's close to Maramures.

3) The weather in May is usually reasonably warm (above 20°C/70°F), but it can get rainy for short periods of time. Anyway, it's unlikely it will rain the whole time you're there.

Thank you for your help! I think I am leaning towards Maramures/Bucovina and combining the two. Transylvania too looks wonderful, but I'm looking for a more unique/less tourisy experience. I appreciate your help with the smaller airports. I'm going to do some research to see which cities fly into those airports, as this will allow more flexibility should awards flights to Bucharest be unavailable when we book.

Tracy

You can certainly do Bucovina and Mamamures in a week (great choice). However, public transport in those areas isn't great - you need a car, or a car and driver. I certainly can't recommend the guide I used, but I'm sure there are others that are better.

Thank you thursdaysd! We were planning our driving ourselves. Hopefully this is an okay idea! We like to have the flexibility. I read on Clifton's report about the tretcherous roads, so we'll have to be prepared! But do you think a private guide is the way to go? If so, I would prefer one for just certain tours or days.

Tracy

I'm not the best person to ask about guides as I had a bad experience! If you're driving yourself and have a good guidebook or two, I think you'll be fine on your own. I loved Romania despite the guide, so I'm sure you'll have a good trip, but do be careful with the driving.

For my TR see http://wilhelmswords.com/eur2006/index.html - Roaming Romania. You might find this useful about driving: http://tinyurl.com/328jcvt

thursdaysd, I read your report yesterday. I found the link on another Romania post you had replied to. Very helpful! I am so sorry about the guide from hell! But I'm glad to know that it didn't ruin your experience.

Tracy

Glad it was helpful! You're not going 'til next year? Plenty of time for anticipation, lol, and the roads may have improved some more by then.

Pathetic, I know! I am going through travel withdrawals (I have 6 month old twin daughters) and haven't been on vacation since our trip to Turkey last February. I am a perpetual planner, and it gives me something to do when the girls are sleeping!

You've been to some amazing places, btw. I loved looking at all of your pictures! I am so envious. I love how you travel off the beaten path.

Wow - congratulations on the twins! Are you taking them to Romania? Or leaving them with doting grandparents? Glad you liked the pix - I still have lots I haven't processed yet...

Thank you! We are leaving them at home with grandparents. We don't live as close to my parents as I would like, and they are looking forward to having the girls to themselves for a week!

Tracy, for what it's worth, I honestly don't think Transylvania is as touristy as one might think. Well, Bran Castle and Rasnov are, but I was surprised that Sighisoara in October really wasn't nearly as touristy as say, your average Andalusia white town. And this was on Halloween (unintentional on our part but very quiet that night anyway)

Anyway, I think the Marmures and Bucovina plan is a good one and the idea of flying into Cluj is pretty brilliant (which is why I mention Sighisoara, since it's pretty close and IMO, kinda cool). But more so, most of Transylvania is chock a block with walled churches and small villages that probably never see a tourist. Judging by the astounded looks we'd get from the grannies anyway. But not sure about car rentals around Cluj and I know everyone says that public transport around there isn't great at getting you into the far corners of RO.

PS - 6 months??? Already?? Wow. Just wow.

Clifton,

Thank you! I'm so glad you found my post and responded. I've been diligently reading my Romania travel guide and doing research. My concern is that, given our lack of time in Romania and the transportation options, it may make more sense to just stay in Transylvania. I really want to at least see the painted monasteries, but distances seem to be far between and trains not so great. We definitely want to see at least some of Transylvania, but driving between Transylvania and Suceava would be a long drive. I am considering maybe seeing Sighisoara and Sibiu, and then driving to Suceava to see the painted monastaries for a few days and then flying back to Bucharest before flying home. However, that seems kind of hectic for a shorter trip. In your opinion do you think we could have a good time if we only get a chance to see Transylvania?

Actually they will be 7 months on Monday! I can't believe it either. It makes me a little sad and sappy, as they are growing up so fast, but they are getting more fun each day. I hope your daughter is doing well and that your family is enjoying Australia!

Tracy

We found it cheaper to go from Budapest. You might want to take a look at my trip report.

Michael, I read your trip report when you first posted it but I'll look for it again. I could use all the help I can get!

In the meantime, did you drive from Budapest to Romania? I am considering Budapest but it still seems a long way from Maramures and Bucavino and flights back to Budapest are surprisingly expensive and seem to require a layover in Bucharest which is annoying because it should be a short flight. I'm just torn on the logistics of all of this, which is why I guess I am considering just a simple Transylvania trip...it seems so much easier!

Tracy

I think either trip would be good, but you're right. For such a short trip, it probably would be a long day spent just getting from the central part of Transylvania to Bucovina. Well, not probably - it was for us. We started in Sighisoara early one day, went through the very Hungarian towns just east of there, up along Lake Bicaz and the Gorge (beautiful scenery) then rolled into Guru Humorlei (sp? from memory) a little after dark. A long day and driving later than is a good idea on those roads. People seemed to think you'd see them coming in from work... or that it was their roads after all... but they're all dressed in black! Plus the livestock and such just makes it a bad idea to still be on the road after dark. Of course, it's probably light a bit later in May than it was in October but the drive really is tiring, all that dodging stuff on the road.

Anyway, once in Bucovina, we saw the monasteries in what was really no more than a day. I could see spending longer, but they're similar in a lot of ways as far as construction and it's the paintings you're really checking out. And once I saw Suceavita, that was my fav and I was sort of mentally coasting after that, to be honest. Enjoying, but I saw the best one already, so not driven to keep staring at murals, as shallow as that sounds. After that, it was more about the peace and quiet and the nuns gardening and that sort of thing for me.

In Transylvania, yes, it's different, but not so different. It's still Romanian. Still horses and carts and cabbage with sour cream and Reislings and life is pretty much the same. But instead of remote monasteries, it's walled churches and goth towers in towns. I loved Transylvania, for getting lost on back roads between Sighisoara and Sibiu (around Agnita) if nothign else. Slice of life stuff. Personally, I wasn't wowed by Bran. Rasnov I understand has gone the same themepark route. Sinaia isn't in Transylvania. Pretty mountain town, nice monastery and 1800's manor house, but not worth going so far south on your tight schedule.

But I can honestly say that I found Sibiu a very beautiful and interesting city who understands a little about tourism but isn't wrapped up in it. Sighsoara by now may be a bit more touristy, but it really is a little marvel of gothic architecture and it sure ain't no Bruges or Rothenburg in terms of hordes and t-shirt shops. In the citadel, most houses are still lived in and the churches still in use. Then you have all these towns with the Saxon churches - like Beirtan and Harmann and more that don't even register on maps and in books.

Beirtan for instance... Unesco Heritage site. Big walled church on the hill (referred to as a peasant fortress) in the center of town. Immaculately kept. And how touristy is it? A student was sitting on the grass reading a book until we got there, and she quietly came in with us to show us the town vault and the other features of the church. Not another person there. The hand crocheted seat pads meant to hold a spot in the pews were all around the church staking out various grandma's spots for next Sunday's services. At the bottom of the hill had been a little cafe and that was it. At the best known of the walled churches in Transylvania.

So yeah, while I think the buildings in Bucovina are the most unique in the country... I think you'll see *the real Romania* no matter where you go.

I'd say the absolutely more unaffected place in RO is Maramures which I found fascinating. Honestly, I think my wife found it a bit off-putting. Not all of Maramures, and it's hard to explain but imagine being a stranger walking around a tiny village in the Ozarks - circa 1890. A village where everyone knows everyone else. And there you are, dressed so totally different. And you don't speak English. And everyone comes to a dead stop and watches even when you *drive* by. But tons of unique culture going on up there... but not a place you blow through and see the big sites. Because the big site is usually the town church and you got to start by miming to passersby that you'd like to find whoever it is that has the key. LOL. It's an adventure in Maramures.

On the family front, I totally get that sad and sappy thing... ours is almost 32 months now. It goes by so quickly. She's tagged along to Peru and Bali though in the last year... she's a good little traveler. Yeah, as they get older, they'll develop personalities and you'll wonder were it all came from. Enjoy it, it's a blast.

Thanks Clifton! Your report was a treasure to read and I really appreciate your imput.

I really want to go to Maramures, even more so now that you described it! We've been around a lot of Western and Central Europe and we are looking for something different, perhaps a little more exotic. Our FF miles won't get us further than Europe so Romania seemed like a good choice. I'm just struggling with how to get to Maramures in the least amount of time as possible and still have a relaxing trip and be able to enjoy ourselves without rushing. That seems to be my biggest struggle with planning this trip...I just can't wrap my mind around the logistics. And perhaps I'm suffering from wanting to see it all and knowing that, especially given the road conditions, we have to limit ourselves.

I really want to see Transylvania. It sounds like it have so much of what we enjoy about traveling. Midevil towns, walled towns, beautiful scenery, castles. I figure if we can limit ourselves to just Transylvania, and perhaps some of the towns around it, we could enjoy ourselves at a more leisurely pace. Visit some wineries, smaller towns, and basically just take our time. But that doesn't keep me from wanting to visit Maramures and Bucovina! I think I could visit Maramures and/or Bucovina but I would have to give up Transylvania but I'm not sure if my husband would like that idea as he really wants to see some of the sites in Transylvania.

Luckily we still have quite a bit of time to research and plan....although too much time may not be a good thing because I'll just keep adding to my list of things I want to see!

Wow...she is already 32 months? Time really does fly! I think it's wonderful that you are traveling with her, and I'm envious. If we had just one baby I think I would seriously consider taking her. But with two I just can't right now. Way too much stuff that is needed...everyone behind us in the security line, and on the plane, would hate us! But we are traveling with them to the beach this summer when they learn how to sit up, and we plan on renting a cabin in the northern Georgia mountains this fall. We won't be able to do much hiking with them, but it will be nice to just get away.

Thanks again!
Tracy

We have friends who went to Romania on a guided tour with www.originalworld.com. They raved about their guide and driver and said he can be contacted directly for his services. His name is Cristian Reisen and his email is [email protected]. Hope this helps.

Hi tcreath - minor heads-up, when we were getting ready for our trip to Budapest earlier this year, I called our bank to make sure they knew and wouldn't flag our ATM/Debit cards. She asked if we were headed to nearby Romania, as apparently our cards would not work there - the country was blacklisted, I guess, by my bank... might be worth some due diligence in advance. Have a great trip!

AHaugeto, thank you for the heads up! Yikes...we would be in a pretty tough bind if that is the case. We'll definitely have to call our bank beforehand.

jrjcollins, thank you for the information. We will probably go ahead and do it ourselves though. We prefer to go at our own pace and, well, we are too cheap for that! :)