I’ve been reading the most amazing thread about trip planning in April and have been taking copious notes and plan on taking many of the suggestions for our own trip. But we’ve just run into a bit of a snag as we plan, so I thought I’d ask the expert here for a bit of personalized advice and some opinions. We will be returning to Southern Spain and are going to revisit some old favorite spots, and add on a few new soon to be favorites. Flying in and out of Madrid and traveling around for 2 weeks. We’ll take trains and also have a car for a bit. Our original plan was to head to Seville via train on 5/17 as soon as we arrive. Then on to Cordoba, Ubeda, Valencia, Cuenca, Toledo and back to Madrid. There seems to be something going on in Sevilla 5/17-5/20 as the hotels are quite occupied. There are several conferences and also the Interestelar concert. There are lots of hotels to choose from, so that isn’t the issue. But if the city is going to be so crowded that every place we visit will be packed, we’d rather shuffle that around a bit. We’ve been to Seville and love it and were thinking that wandering it’s lovely streets, enjoying the architecture and popping into bars and tapas bars as the urge strikes us would be the perfect way to get over jet lag and kick off our trip. If everything is jam packed, none of that will be as fun, and perhaps not even possible. Plan B is to start in Toledo and spend a couple of nights wandering, eating (it’s all about food for us) and seeing the sights. Then on to Cordoba and then Sevilla, which seems to be a bit less busy at that point. The only problem with that plan is that the train travel will take a bit longer and we were hoping to pick up the car in Cordoba and head out to Ubeda from there. Sevilla is a bit further away from Ubeda than Cordoba. But those are really nits.

So - my first question is to give me your opinion of my itinerary and tell us if we are right to be concerned with the those crowded dates in Sevilla (does anyone know for sure what is causing the crowds?) or if we should just stick with our first plan. Is the back and forth of the second plan that big of a deal?

When we were last in Sevilla we fell in love with Flamenco. We saw a few shows, but the highlight of the trip was a place a waiter recommended to us. It was a little restaurant down a little alley way which was so packed we couldn’t even get a seat. It looked as if the waitresses and the owner were just breaking into song and dance in between running drinks around to the tables. The music and dancing were fabulous and the atmosphere was magical. We’d really like to experience this again. Sadly, that place is no longer in business. Anyone know of a place like that? Sevilla or elsewhere. We’d travel to do that again.

And lastly, any restaurant recommendations? We love Michelin Stars and dives equally, as long as the food is phenomenal. We will make a reservation, stand in line, fight the crowds and go far afield for the very best food. Whatever is needed. We live to eat. We’ve been talking about Jamon Iberico since our last trip to Spain and I plan to eat my considerable weight in it this trip. . But we also hope to visit some more modern upscale restaurants.

TIA for any and all help and advice.

Some tips for serious foodies in Madrid:

* RavioXO. The Gourmet Experience, a restaurant area within El Corte Inglιs in Castellana is home to the latest culinary project of chef Dabiz Muρoz, named Best Chef in the World 2021, which shines a spotlight on pasta and dumplings in a gastronomic proposal that cuts loose from any cultural constraints. Awarded a Michelin star in the 2023 edition of the distinguished guide. Seating up to 45 people inside and 20 on the terrace, the menu at RavioXO pays tribute to the work Muρoz has been doing to craft exquisite dumplings since he first launched DiverXO. Each piece takes several hours to create, taking into account the different starches and their textures. Each filling is created in accordance with the different types of dough they are working with. Recommended dishes: Wontollini soup, cold pickled ravioli, Chinese arrabiata. Dessert: Runny cake with choco and yolks. https://www.ravioxo.com/en/

* Sacha. Running since the early 1970s, this small bistro is one of the reference restaurants in the city, which has maintained its warm dιcor intact since its opening. The chef offers a menu that includes the salpicσn de bogavante (lobster salad), falsa lasaρa de txangurro (fake spider crab lasagna), tuιtano al horno (roasted bone marrow) and ostra escabechada (pickled oyster). The semi hidden entrance is located in a garden in the middle of a block. Address: Calle Juan Hurtado de Mendoza 11 (the entrance to the garden from Juan Ramσn Jimιnez street). https://www.restaurantesacha.com/

* QΪ by chef Mario Sandoval (awarded 2 Michelin stars for his restaurant Coque). QΪ will offer Mario Sandoval’s emblematic suckling pig, which will be one of the star dishes of this new restaurant. The 'cochinillo', or suckling pig, is a piglet that is slaughtered before it's four weeks old. https://restaurantequ.com/en/

* Juliαn de Tolosa is a Basque steakhouse. The menu is short because people go there to eat old cow Tx Steak with roasted piquillo peppers. https://cavabaja.juliandetolosa.com/en/

* El Seρor Martνn specializes in grilled fish. An opportunity to taste lesser known fish such as the 'borriquete' (rubberlip grunt). https://srmartin.es/en/home/

* El Pescador. This seafood restaurant was created in 1975 to offer: oysters, clams, small crabs, goose barnacles, shrimp, prawns, mussels and the best fish. Here they have been offering, for years, the best and freshest products of the Galician coast that reach the table without masking the original flavor. This establishment carried out a full refurbishment in 2010 that has given greater importance to the central bar, conserving the essence and emphasis on the product. Recommended dishes: txangurro gratinado (gratin spidercrab meat in a sea urchin shell), almejas gordas de carril a la sartιn (big grooved carpet-shell clam fried), gamba blanca de Huelva (white prawns from Huelva), cigalitas de Isla Cristina (sautιed Isla Cristina sea crabs). http://www.marisqueriaelpescador.net/?lang=en

* Nuevo Horno de Santa Teresa specializes in the traditional 'cocido madrileρo' (Madrid-style chickpea stew). They are only open for lunch from Monday to Saturday, from 1:30 pm. to 4:30 pm. Address: Calle Santa Teresa 8, Metro Alonso Martinez. https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100063577150677

* Mudrα. They offer 100% plant-based cuisine: vegetables, fruits, nuts, cereals, legumes, mushrooms and roots. All this gives rise to an innovative proposal that processes food minimally to maintain its freshness and all its nutrients. Creativity and innovation are their strong points. Its recipes, as well as being prepared with renewed techniques, have an exquisite aesthetic, just like the whole establishment located at Calle Recoletos, 13. Its menu is a veritable explosion of flavour and colour. The cocktail bar is also well worth a visit. https://mudramadrid.com/home_new_en/

* La Tasquerνa by chef Javi Estevez (awarded 1 Michelin star). Offal haute cuisine. Do you dare to try it? Recommended dishes: taco cheek & red prawn, 'callos' (veal tripe, leg and snout stew) https://latasqueria.com/en/la-tasque...-javi-estevez/

* Classic tapas nearby Mercado San Miguel https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...eaeiliY6Y5Vrog

* Sip a Dry Martini at Cock (short for cocktail). Inaugurated in 1921, inspired by English pubs (part of its decoration was acquired in London), Bar Cock is a renowned venue for cocktails, offering both old favourites and the latest creations. Based at the back of the famous Bar Museo Chicote, it was once a private room for the most select customers, and some people even say the two establishments are connected by a fireplace. Forget the legends, though. Hollywood actors, artists of all kinds, politicians, celebrities and royals have passed through it. Open every day from 7 pm to 3 am at Calle de la Reina 16, Metro Gran Via. https://cargocollective.com/barcock/HISTORIA-1

A few years ago we flew into Madrid, took the train to Cordoba for a couple of nights, then train/bus (train construction issues at that time) to Granada, then rented a car and drove to Valencia, stopping along the way. It was a beautiful road trip.
We did not go to Sevilla on that trip but my point is that flying into Madrid and immediately taking train to Cordoba worked well for us. I have posted my trip report here a couple of times, but here it is again

Spain Trip Report

I would also add that we were just in Sevilla in the week between Christmas and New Years and it was crowded but that added to the vibrancy. The issue may be how much hotels will cost given the demand.

If you live to eat, then I recommend that you get a horchata from a heladeria. I can't give you a specific rec in Madrid, but it's an amazing food item. Where I live, I only have easy access to the powdered version which does not come out as creamy and is too sweet. My all-time favorite was an almond horchata in Cordoba.

I had a great meal at La Barraca, a rice specialty restaurant. The paella was divine, but the best dish we had was the habitas salteadas con jamon y cebolla. Another great dish was the scrambled eggs with cod, asparagus, and croutons, though it might not always be available. I went recently to a paella tasting at which a guest chef from Spain prepared 6 different paellas, and it was a major disappointment compared to La Barraca. That's the problem, isn't it? You can get spoiled.