StCirq

You won't necessarily get unearthly quiet in Domme in mid-June. You'll more likely get wall-to-wall tourists climbing up and down the main street and hanging out on the esplanade. It's a very, very heavily touristed town. I'll agree that it's gorgeous and should be visited and that l'Esplanade is a sweet hotel with a very nice restaurant, but there are places in the Dordogne that are almost equally lovely without the hordes.

StuDudley

We stayed in a gite just outside of Domme for 2 weeks this past June. Before about 10:30 am, and after 7PM it was quiet like DerViking described. Between these times, StCirq's description is accurate.

Best meal this past trip was at l'Esplanade.

Stu Dudley

mr_go

Laurie: You have done your homework, and you've received some excellent advice in this thread (and from Stu's excellent file!). I'd say you're pretty much set.

As others have mentioned, I don't think you can go wrong in this region. But don't forget to relax! DerViking may be right that you have a lot on your plate, but somehow I don't think you'll have much trouble deciding what you <i>don't</i> feel like doing on any given day!

Oh, and post a trip report when you get back, please.

Laurie

Thank you to everyone for the lively discussion! I just booked our airfare this past weekend and we are really excited to see all that the Dordogne has to offer.

Thanks again for your critique of my itinerary and for your many suggestions.
Laurie

Encore

My only thought is that your intinerary is very full. Traffic can be a little dodgy in June and you appear to be trying to squeeze a bunch into a short time period. Leave some relaxation time in your schedule. Drink some noce red wine and sit and ponder. It'll cure all ills.
You are staying at a great gite. Paul and Jeri are wonderful hosts.
Enjoy

Jojonana

I did almost the same trip! Although we LOVED the Dordogne, we loved the rugged and tranquil beauty of the Lot and Cele region even more (except for the Disney-like St-cirq-la-Popie). We stayed at an AMAZINE spot just a fre minutes drive from Pech-Merle (a MUST SEE) : http://www.unjardindanslafalaise.com/

Our "coup de coeur" of our 15-day trip!

Carlux

Another suggestions that you not try to do too much and leave yourself open to wandering and exploring. I wouldn't, for example, bother with Gourdon, which is interesting if you have more time, but not worth the drive when there are so many other things to see.

Spend more time on the river, or have a picnic below Beynac, with a great view (turn left after you go under the railway bridge, approaching Beynac from the east, follow the road to the end, past a campsite, and picnic on the banks of the river.)

mr_go

Laurie: I forgot to mention it yesterday, but we wrote a fairly detailed trip report following our visit a few years ago. We were first-timers too, so you might get something out of it...

http://www.onelittleworld.com/france_1.html

Enjoy your trip!

maytraveller

I think the itinerary looks well thought out and researched for a first time visitor. And you are certainly in the right place for some good advice!

I just have one comment re the throngs of people in Domme. We stayed there 4 nights at the end of August/ early September, and after about 6 PM the towm starts to empty out. My suggestion--reserve for dinner one night at l'Esplanade around 8 or 8:30, drive into Domme at 7 PM and have a walk around before dinner.

Here is my recent trip report , we were also first timers to this area,

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...e-dordogne.cfm

maytraveller

Laurie

Thank you very much for the trip reports. They were very interesting and they gave us an idea of what to expect from the weather since we will also visit in early June.

mr Go, too bad about the little car accident! Were you able to resolve the problem with the other person and the rental car company? That is one of my worst fears while traveling, but I know accidents can happen.

I was impressed that you were able to find restaurants that were so good for so little money! 11 Euros for a 3-4 course meal sounds like a great bargain. Were these prices typical for the area?

We are also novices at canoeing. How long did you float down the river?

I also plan to do a little hiking around the area where our Gite is located. I have heard that we may encounter many ruins and beautiful scenery.

Thank you again for your advice and reports!
Laurie

StCirq

Laurie, the Dordogne has all kinds of inexpensive places to eat, as well as some very nice restos. You don't really have to hunt around for a decent, inexpensive meal.

Our favorite canoë place is at St-Vincent de Cosse, but there are plenty to choose from. Just ake sure you canoë on the Dordogne, not the Vézère, as the latter is much dirtier. There are actually beaches on the Dordogne where you can pull up, have a picnic and swim. You can shoose the length of your trip - anywhere from a couple of hours to a week. We usually do the run from Cénac back to St-Vincent, which takes about 3 hours unless the river is running very fast or there's traffic on the river, which there always is on sunny days in July and August.

For hiking,you probably want to pick up the Grande Randonnée map of the area once you get there. You can get it at the maison de la presse in St-Cyprien or any other maison de la presse or bookstore or supermarket. I don't think you'll see any ruins in that immediate area (go to the Château de l'Herme if you want to see a nice big ruin), but there's no shortage of beautiful scenery.

Laurie

Thanks for the tip about the canoe trip, St. Cirq! We will try to find St-Vincent de Cosse and take the trip from Cenac to St-Vincent.

I have a really stupid question about hiking. I HATE Snakes!!!! Are we likely to see any snakes in the woods in this area?

Thanks again for your help.
Laurie

Michael

I have never seen any snakes in the Dordogne, even though a friend of ours says that there is at least one resident snake around the foundation of our house. Your likelihood of seeing a snake is extremely small.

StCirq

Yes, there are snakes. We have big couleuvres around our house in the summer all the time. We have adders, too. The couleuvres are nonpoisonous, but large (our main resident is about 4.5 feet long). The adders are tiny - a foot long or so - but can be deadly. We find them in our pool from time to time.

There are probably other snakes as well. It's the countryside. We have all kinds of wildlife.

flowerpower

Laurie, you are putting me to shame. We are going to Dordogne for a week after a week in Paris and all I've done is train (THANK you forum for putting me onto SNFC and saving me $100's of dollars over US site)
and I've booked lodging - Sarlat and Ch.de Treyne (so MayTraveler if you have any comments on Treyne, I'd love to hear them)

I've received Stu's itinerary and St. Cirq's rec's (afterall she has lived there!) but am a bit overwhelmed by so much...
I may just follow Laurie's..but likely not; I take things a bit slower - love to just inhale the fragrance.

My question - and maybe Laurie knows this - what type car is good for the area - is it hilly and require more engine power than an economy...would the VW work okay- I am looking at Kemwell as they are quoting the best prices so far, and use the same form as AutoEurope - so are they a part of them - does anyone know.
Renting cars is so foreign to me in a foreign country - obviously! so any thoughts on what to get would be helpful.

One other question - is it packed with tourists in May (12-19) as I have no idea what or where I'd want to dine in May (in February!) Can I wait or is it essential to make reservations?

Again, sorry Laurie for the hijack, but I thought a new posting would be - well too new.
Its all along the same lines; you are just a huge leap in front of me! LOL

Thanks again,
FP

StCirq

A VW is fine. It's hilly, not mountainous. I've been all over it in a Twingo, which is basically a scooter with doors.

Kemwel and AutoEurope are sister companies, the same company really. Pit them against each other to get the best price. Better yet, try going to the AutoEurope and Kemwel sites in the UK or some European country - you can often beat the U.S. prices, and they don't seem to have a problem with Americans renting from those sites.

It will definitely not be terribly crowded in May. And no, reservations aren't required for most places, and probably not anywhere in May.

StuDudley

Kemwel & AutoEurope are not sisters - they are the same person. Last year when I made my car reservations for the Dordogne, I called AutoEurope (always call - don't reserve on-line) and asked for their best rate. Then I asked for the AAA discount & received an additional 8% reduction. Then I asked for the Kemwel rate, and got the even lower Kemwel price - from the same person. I took it, and he immediatly e-mailed me the voucher with Kemwel's name on it. Same format as the 30 or so AutoEurope vouchers I've received in past years.

I recently received an e-mail from Kemwel about leasing. Their address is in Portland Maine - same address as AutoEurope.

You won't have trouble with restaurant reservations in May - I didn't in June. It could be a little more difficult on Mondays, when many restaurants close. If you arrive at a restaurant just before 8, you should be able to walk in to most. Plume d'Oie formerly did not accept walk-ins most of the time - but that may have changed. Le Grand Bleu in Sarlat was the hardest to get into - reserve the day before.

Don't get overly concerned about seeing everything - since you can't possible do that unless you stay for about 2-3 months. Just be aware of opening/closing days & times. Getting an early start in the day helps too.

Stu Dudley

flowerpower

Thanks St. and Stu,
I will definitely work on the calls to AutoEurope, etc.

And it's good to know I can get a meal without planning it in February!

I really want to see the area, enjoy the travel, see some history and maybe plan a longer trip after dusting the surface.

Thanks again all,
FP

maytraveller

(so MayTraveler if you have any comments on Treyne, I'd love to hear them)


We stayed at Ch. de la Treyne for 2 nights early last September, and enjoyed them immensely. The setting and grounds are fantastic, and dinner in the Chateau's elegant dining room was a real treat, if expensive. Breakfast was way overpriced. I see several reviews on tripadvisor complaining of indifferent or poor service, that was not our experience.

Happy planning,

maytraveller

mr_go

Laurie:
<i>mr Go, too bad about the little car accident! Were you able to resolve the problem with the other person and the rental car company?</i>

It's funny... I've logged hundreds of thousands of miles behind the wheel through the years, and that little fender-bender was my only accident since I was a pimply-faced teenager. It ended up costing us several hundred bucks when we turned the car back in.

We made a decision many years ago to decline the insurance whenever we rent a car (well, usually). Over the fullness of time, I'd say we are still way ahead of the game. YMMV.

<i>I was impressed that you were able to find restaurants that were so good for so little money!</i>

Prices run the gamut, but the food is generally terrific in the region. You'll love it.

<i>We are also novices at canoeing. How long did you float down the river?</i>

St. Cirq has it about right. One thing I'd stress is to let the stronger rower sit in the back of the canoe. Believe it or not, that makes a big difference!