Help narrowing down Andalusia itinerary
Aug 24th, 2023, 07:54 AM
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Help narrowing down Andalusia itinerary
Hello everyone,
First, thank you for your knowledge and time helping fellow travelers- I could not do it without your great input!
We are traveling throughout Andalusia with friends - 2 couples- young seniors
Here is the tentative itinerary- nothing is booked yet:
Madrid- 3 nights, (arrive from Paris)- day trip to Toledo
Train to Cordoba- 2 nights
Train to Granada- 3 nights
Rent car and drive to Ronda - 3 nights (definitely would like to see Setenil de las bodegas, and if time allows either Olvera, Zahara, or Grazalema ) any of these pueblos peak our interest but need your recommendations. Also thinking of stopping somewhere on the way from Granada to Ronda- maybe Nerja?
Drive to Seville and drop car off- 5-7 nights- visit Cadiz on a day trip from Seville
Fly home from Seville
We love history, architecture, museums, beautiful landscape and scenic natural formations such as caves etc, and great Food. Not big drinkers so vineyards and wine tasting is not our thing- maybe Sherry though?
Love the outdoors and a little hiking can be added ( Caminito del Rey ?) or any other suggestions for a fun and different experience.
My husband loves to paint ( scenery is important for photos) and our friends love to cook- I guess we should be in the right place!
We would love your input on the time allotted in each city and which Pueblos Blancos to visit- should I do some on the way from Granada to Ronda, do I break it up and stay in two places ( by taking a day out of Cordoba and adding it to this area instead?) Some of us have been to Madrid, Cordoba and Granada before but others have not, none of us have been to Seville so we are giving this city more time.
Since we have a little more time in Seville, is Cadiz a good option for a day trip or should I do Jerez instead or both? We will not have the car at that time so will need to use trains from Seville to Cadiz for a day trip.
Look forward to your comments....
First, thank you for your knowledge and time helping fellow travelers- I could not do it without your great input!
We are traveling throughout Andalusia with friends - 2 couples- young seniors
Here is the tentative itinerary- nothing is booked yet:
Madrid- 3 nights, (arrive from Paris)- day trip to Toledo
Train to Cordoba- 2 nights
Train to Granada- 3 nights
Rent car and drive to Ronda - 3 nights (definitely would like to see Setenil de las bodegas, and if time allows either Olvera, Zahara, or Grazalema ) any of these pueblos peak our interest but need your recommendations. Also thinking of stopping somewhere on the way from Granada to Ronda- maybe Nerja?
Drive to Seville and drop car off- 5-7 nights- visit Cadiz on a day trip from Seville
Fly home from Seville
We love history, architecture, museums, beautiful landscape and scenic natural formations such as caves etc, and great Food. Not big drinkers so vineyards and wine tasting is not our thing- maybe Sherry though?
Love the outdoors and a little hiking can be added ( Caminito del Rey ?) or any other suggestions for a fun and different experience.
My husband loves to paint ( scenery is important for photos) and our friends love to cook- I guess we should be in the right place!
We would love your input on the time allotted in each city and which Pueblos Blancos to visit- should I do some on the way from Granada to Ronda, do I break it up and stay in two places ( by taking a day out of Cordoba and adding it to this area instead?) Some of us have been to Madrid, Cordoba and Granada before but others have not, none of us have been to Seville so we are giving this city more time.
Since we have a little more time in Seville, is Cadiz a good option for a day trip or should I do Jerez instead or both? We will not have the car at that time so will need to use trains from Seville to Cadiz for a day trip.
Look forward to your comments....
Aug 24th, 2023, 08:49 AM
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It's so hard to tell anyone to take a day away from Cordoba because my memories get in the way--I just had this magical experience there. Plus, two nights is really just one full day. I'd leave it as-is.
Antequera would be my stop en route from Granada to Ronda (Cool rock formations--I missed it on both of my trips and still want to go back), plus it's right on the way.
For your Ronda day trips, I think you could do them all in a loop if you are not stopping to hike. If you wanted to get a hike in, perhaps save the one with the most hiking options (Grazalema?) for the second day. Near Ronda, there are some caves at Montejaque. Gosh when I see so much outdoorsy stuff to do near Ronda, I'd consider adding a day from Sevilla to Ronda, especially if you want to add in Caminito del Rey. Five or six days in Sevilla would be okay. It is Ronda where I long to go back the most and do all of that exploring!
RE the day trip to Cadiz, play it by ear. It's a tad long on the train, but if you are feeling antsy and want to smell the salt air, Cadiz is a nice day out. Jerez is easy but I did not fall in love with it like the other places--unless you decide to do the sherry tasting, which I think would be fun.
Sounds like a fantastic trip!
Antequera would be my stop en route from Granada to Ronda (Cool rock formations--I missed it on both of my trips and still want to go back), plus it's right on the way.
For your Ronda day trips, I think you could do them all in a loop if you are not stopping to hike. If you wanted to get a hike in, perhaps save the one with the most hiking options (Grazalema?) for the second day. Near Ronda, there are some caves at Montejaque. Gosh when I see so much outdoorsy stuff to do near Ronda, I'd consider adding a day from Sevilla to Ronda, especially if you want to add in Caminito del Rey. Five or six days in Sevilla would be okay. It is Ronda where I long to go back the most and do all of that exploring!
RE the day trip to Cadiz, play it by ear. It's a tad long on the train, but if you are feeling antsy and want to smell the salt air, Cadiz is a nice day out. Jerez is easy but I did not fall in love with it like the other places--unless you decide to do the sherry tasting, which I think would be fun.
Sounds like a fantastic trip!
Aug 24th, 2023, 10:46 AM
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I do see that Antequera has some interesting natural formations and Dolmens- will look into that site. I will keep Cordoba as you suggested- it is such a beautiful city.
For variety, I was trying to add something on the Costa del Sol along the way from Granada to Ronda and that is why I was wondering if Nerja is worth a visit- but Antequera does offer natural and man made interest.
Thank you Yorkshire
For variety, I was trying to add something on the Costa del Sol along the way from Granada to Ronda and that is why I was wondering if Nerja is worth a visit- but Antequera does offer natural and man made interest.
Thank you Yorkshire
Aug 24th, 2023, 10:57 AM
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Hopefully someone will chime in on the coastal portion--it would have to be a diamond in the rough because that portion of coast was pretty much obliterated by development--not sure it is worth it when the interior is so pretty.
You won't have the car then, but near Cadiz, the coast south of Vejer de la Frontera has some pretty portions (google Los Caños de Meca). You can take a bus there and back from Cadiz, but that adds on to a very long day trip. See some of Ekscrunchy's posts about this area if you want to do a seafood pilgrimage--you could maybe divert to do a night between Ronda and Sevilla with the car? There is a tuna fishery here and it's a mecca for canned seafood fans. Bolonia looks pretty, but I did not get that far. There are some Roman ruins there also.
You won't have the car then, but near Cadiz, the coast south of Vejer de la Frontera has some pretty portions (google Los Caños de Meca). You can take a bus there and back from Cadiz, but that adds on to a very long day trip. See some of Ekscrunchy's posts about this area if you want to do a seafood pilgrimage--you could maybe divert to do a night between Ronda and Sevilla with the car? There is a tuna fishery here and it's a mecca for canned seafood fans. Bolonia looks pretty, but I did not get that far. There are some Roman ruins there also.
Aug 24th, 2023, 11:19 AM
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Ooh- adding a day to explore that area with the car before heading to Sevilla is a good thought...
Although not the Mediterranean, but still sounds very promising! We actually thought at one point diverting to Gibraltar for a day but after reading various posts we nixed it.
Again, thanks for the input
Although not the Mediterranean, but still sounds very promising! We actually thought at one point diverting to Gibraltar for a day but after reading various posts we nixed it.
Again, thanks for the input
Aug 25th, 2023, 09:06 PM
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We lived in AndalusIa for a year and voted most of the places you are contemplating at one time or another. We posted a few entries on our blog about a few of them, but never got around to most of the places! See https://accidentalnomads.com/category/spain/ there is at least, a post about El Caminiyo del Rey which I would heartily recommend
As you are keen on hiking and scenery I would definitely make time for El Torcal which has some stunning rock formations- see below
It is close to Antequera which is also worth a look as a mid sized non touristy town which is great option if getting around by train as a number of lines seem to converge there. We lived around 15 kms from there and it was really handy for the train to Granada etc.
if you wanted to go to the coast then Malaga could be a good option. Often overlooked but it is a really nice city and terrific for foodies!
As you are keen on hiking and scenery I would definitely make time for El Torcal which has some stunning rock formations- see below
It is close to Antequera which is also worth a look as a mid sized non touristy town which is great option if getting around by train as a number of lines seem to converge there. We lived around 15 kms from there and it was really handy for the train to Granada etc.
if you wanted to go to the coast then Malaga could be a good option. Often overlooked but it is a really nice city and terrific for foodies!
Aug 26th, 2023, 06:27 AM
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Crellston, thank you for your response. The pics are beautiful and very tempting. Is it feasible to visit the city of Antequera and also get a short hike to see these rock formations.
Is this something you need to hike into or is there a scenic road from which to view this landscape.
Thanks
Is this something you need to hike into or is there a scenic road from which to view this landscape.
Thanks
Aug 26th, 2023, 11:00 AM
#8
You really intend to drag your husband away from painting these?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albolafia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albolafia
Aug 26th, 2023, 05:33 PM
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I would go the "high road" from Granda to Ronda through Antequera. Beautiful photos from crellston and I agree with Yorkshire about El Torcal with a car.
I would to this rather than down to the coast, a longer trip, with stop at Nerja, but I admit I'm not a Nerja fan, which seems to me very much like a Northern European expat town, although it has an undeniably beautiful setting on the Med.
A Cádiz day trip via Alvia train can be done from Seville, but it makes for a long day and gives a bit of short shrift to this very evocative and ancient city. Jerez on the MD train makes for a better day trip, quicker and less to take in.
And from Cádiz a bus to Caños de Meca, Barbate (the canning capital) or Vejer makes for an even longer if not impossible day, not feasible in a day trip.
We use Ronda as our "mountain" base for 3-4 nights to explore Grazalema, Setenil de las Bodegas, Zahara de la Sierra, the Roman ruins of Acinipo, and la Pileta prehistoric caves, which we have found fascinating. If you love caves, don't miss it!
We do Ronda-area wine touring but if you're not wine lovers, that´s totally skippable.
The scenery of the loop drive, Ronda to Grazalema to Zahara de la Sierra through the Puerto de las Palomas mountain pass then back to Ronda, with a detour northeast to Setenil, is gorgeous...slow going from Ronda to Grazalema, as you´ll need to stop for sheep, but beautiful. A painter's dream. I would keep Ronda as your base and not try to add a second base. Ronda has many more lodging and dining options, both restaurants and tapas bars and place for churros (Cafetería Churrería Alba), museum options (the excellent Unicaja Joaquín Peinado art museum--love it) and even some entertainment at night (flamenco guitar).
Be aware that the Caminito del Rey sits a full hour or more northeast of Ronda.
If you want a sherry experience, Jerez is your place, and the best sherry house for a total beginner, I feel, is the Bodegas Tío Pepe. The tour is entertaining, and they offer a number of food pairings, which are absolutely necessary when sipping sherry!. It´s the iconic sherry house.
Just some thoughts.
I would to this rather than down to the coast, a longer trip, with stop at Nerja, but I admit I'm not a Nerja fan, which seems to me very much like a Northern European expat town, although it has an undeniably beautiful setting on the Med.
A Cádiz day trip via Alvia train can be done from Seville, but it makes for a long day and gives a bit of short shrift to this very evocative and ancient city. Jerez on the MD train makes for a better day trip, quicker and less to take in.
And from Cádiz a bus to Caños de Meca, Barbate (the canning capital) or Vejer makes for an even longer if not impossible day, not feasible in a day trip.
We use Ronda as our "mountain" base for 3-4 nights to explore Grazalema, Setenil de las Bodegas, Zahara de la Sierra, the Roman ruins of Acinipo, and la Pileta prehistoric caves, which we have found fascinating. If you love caves, don't miss it!
We do Ronda-area wine touring but if you're not wine lovers, that´s totally skippable.
The scenery of the loop drive, Ronda to Grazalema to Zahara de la Sierra through the Puerto de las Palomas mountain pass then back to Ronda, with a detour northeast to Setenil, is gorgeous...slow going from Ronda to Grazalema, as you´ll need to stop for sheep, but beautiful. A painter's dream. I would keep Ronda as your base and not try to add a second base. Ronda has many more lodging and dining options, both restaurants and tapas bars and place for churros (Cafetería Churrería Alba), museum options (the excellent Unicaja Joaquín Peinado art museum--love it) and even some entertainment at night (flamenco guitar).
Be aware that the Caminito del Rey sits a full hour or more northeast of Ronda.
If you want a sherry experience, Jerez is your place, and the best sherry house for a total beginner, I feel, is the Bodegas Tío Pepe. The tour is entertaining, and they offer a number of food pairings, which are absolutely necessary when sipping sherry!. It´s the iconic sherry house.
Just some thoughts.
Aug 27th, 2023, 02:33 AM
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Crellston, thank you for your response. The pics are beautiful and very tempting. Is it feasible to visit the city of Antequera and also get a short hike to see these rock formations.
Is this something you need to hike into or is there a scenic road from which to view this landscape.
Thanks
Is this something you need to hike into or is there a scenic road from which to view this landscape.
Thanks
Aug 28th, 2023, 04:20 PM
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I'm sorry I have not answered sooner- work and life gets in the way of fun !
I appreciate all your comments and we are now definitely going to get a very early start from Granada and head to Antequera and hike a bit around El Torcal- beautiful and stunning landscape! Also Mirabel, we are taking the route suggested for Pueblos Blancos from Ronda-we are there 3 nights so should have plenty of time. I have now made reservation at Parador de Ronda and looks like this area will be a highlight of our trip.
We are considering adding a few days so we can extend 2 nights in Cadiz. The description of this city and the seafood sounds lovely- and somehow being so far down in Spain intrigues me I would be able to stop in Jerez, sherry tasting and then on to overnight in Cadiz.
I am now in the Places to stay stage- but maybe I need another thread for this?
I need accommodations in the following cities : either 2 hotel rooms in the $200.00-$250.00 each range, or in some cities a 2 bdrm/2bath apartment in the $400-$500 price range ( apartments with kitchenette- I have celiac so being able to cook some meals helps me):
Madrid
Granada
Cordoba
Sevilla
Cadiz (maybe?)
If this is not the place to ask please let me know
Truly appreciate all of your suggestions and we are so excited - Muchas Gracias !
I appreciate all your comments and we are now definitely going to get a very early start from Granada and head to Antequera and hike a bit around El Torcal- beautiful and stunning landscape! Also Mirabel, we are taking the route suggested for Pueblos Blancos from Ronda-we are there 3 nights so should have plenty of time. I have now made reservation at Parador de Ronda and looks like this area will be a highlight of our trip.
We are considering adding a few days so we can extend 2 nights in Cadiz. The description of this city and the seafood sounds lovely- and somehow being so far down in Spain intrigues me
I would be able to stop in Jerez, sherry tasting and then on to overnight in Cadiz. I am now in the Places to stay stage- but maybe I need another thread for this?
I need accommodations in the following cities : either 2 hotel rooms in the $200.00-$250.00 each range, or in some cities a 2 bdrm/2bath apartment in the $400-$500 price range ( apartments with kitchenette- I have celiac so being able to cook some meals helps me):
Madrid
Granada
Cordoba
Sevilla
Cadiz (maybe?)
If this is not the place to ask please let me know
Truly appreciate all of your suggestions and we are so excited - Muchas Gracias !
Aug 28th, 2023, 04:36 PM
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for hotels only
Madrid (hotel rates have skyrocketed this year) but try the following in the Barrio de las Letras quarter, all handy to the Art Triangle:
Catalonia las Cortes
Roommate Alba
NH Collection Paseo del Prado
Radisson Red
Atocha Hotel Madrid Tapestry Collection by Hilton
Mercure Madrid Centro
For apartments in Madrid: Genteel Homes
Granada: Try these 4 stars
Roommate Leo, Gar-Anat, Casa Capitel Nazarí, Casa Morisca, Casa 1800
Córdoba: Casas de la Judería
for apartments, Ermita Suites or La Posada de Sojo
Seville: for apartments, Genteel Homes with lots of options or Suites Murillo
for hotels: Legado Alcázar with a nice, quiet, tucked away location adjacent to the Alcázar gardens or everyone´s favorite, Amadeus and its annex, La Música. Or Las Casas de El Arenal (same ownership as Casas de la Judería in Sevilla and Córdoba)
Madrid (hotel rates have skyrocketed this year) but try the following in the Barrio de las Letras quarter, all handy to the Art Triangle:
Catalonia las Cortes
Roommate Alba
NH Collection Paseo del Prado
Radisson Red
Atocha Hotel Madrid Tapestry Collection by Hilton
Mercure Madrid Centro
For apartments in Madrid: Genteel Homes
Granada: Try these 4 stars
Roommate Leo, Gar-Anat, Casa Capitel Nazarí, Casa Morisca, Casa 1800
Córdoba: Casas de la Judería
for apartments, Ermita Suites or La Posada de Sojo
Seville: for apartments, Genteel Homes with lots of options or Suites Murillo
for hotels: Legado Alcázar with a nice, quiet, tucked away location adjacent to the Alcázar gardens or everyone´s favorite, Amadeus and its annex, La Música. Or Las Casas de El Arenal (same ownership as Casas de la Judería in Sevilla and Córdoba)
Aug 31st, 2023, 05:14 AM
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Thank you Maribel for your hotel suggestions.
One last question, we realize with our present itinerary we have not included any beach towns on the famous costa del sol. One of our traveling companions would love to see and experience the Mediterranean. The options we are considering are to either add a night in Granada ( by taking it away from Ronda- presently have 3 nts. scheduled there) to allow time to day trip to Nerja, or add a night to Ronda ( by subtracting from Granada) and visit a coastal town from Ronda. Or would it be better to just shorten one night in any one of these two cities ( Ronda or Granada) and stopover in a coastal town that is on the way ?
Thoughts...
One last question, we realize with our present itinerary we have not included any beach towns on the famous costa del sol. One of our traveling companions would love to see and experience the Mediterranean. The options we are considering are to either add a night in Granada ( by taking it away from Ronda- presently have 3 nts. scheduled there) to allow time to day trip to Nerja, or add a night to Ronda ( by subtracting from Granada) and visit a coastal town from Ronda. Or would it be better to just shorten one night in any one of these two cities ( Ronda or Granada) and stopover in a coastal town that is on the way ?
Thoughts...
Aug 31st, 2023, 06:16 AM
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Hi Jenny 755,
Many parts of the Costa del Sol, unfortunately, these days are highly overbuilt and over touristed in parts, so I would avoid entirely the Torremolinos-Benalmádena-Fuengirola axis, which I think you aren't considering anyway (just my thought for others who might be reading this thread).
Yes, you could add a night to Granada and day trip to Nerja. Just be aware that Nerja has become, overtime, very much a large Northern European expat colony, and very developed around its edges, although I'll be the first to admit that its Balcón de Europa does have an undeniably pretty setting, thus its popularity with expats.
And Nerja also has the cave, the Cueva de Nerja, which you may want to visit. You can purchase tickets here.
Alternatively...My preference probably would be to stop in San Pedro de Alcántara on the way from Granada to Ronda (for which you'll need to take the "low road" along the coast). From San Pedro de Alcántara up to Ronda is a beautiful, really stunning drive, although non stop curves. This particular area of the Med, west of Málaga between San Pedro and Estepona is also popular with expats but retains, for me at least, more of its Spanish charm (but that's just a very personal feeling)
Many parts of the Costa del Sol, unfortunately, these days are highly overbuilt and over touristed in parts, so I would avoid entirely the Torremolinos-Benalmádena-Fuengirola axis, which I think you aren't considering anyway (just my thought for others who might be reading this thread).
Yes, you could add a night to Granada and day trip to Nerja. Just be aware that Nerja has become, overtime, very much a large Northern European expat colony, and very developed around its edges, although I'll be the first to admit that its Balcón de Europa does have an undeniably pretty setting, thus its popularity with expats.
And Nerja also has the cave, the Cueva de Nerja, which you may want to visit. You can purchase tickets here.
Alternatively...My preference probably would be to stop in San Pedro de Alcántara on the way from Granada to Ronda (for which you'll need to take the "low road" along the coast). From San Pedro de Alcántara up to Ronda is a beautiful, really stunning drive, although non stop curves. This particular area of the Med, west of Málaga between San Pedro and Estepona is also popular with expats but retains, for me at least, more of its Spanish charm (but that's just a very personal feeling)
Aug 31st, 2023, 09:55 AM
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Crellston, thank you for your response. The pics are beautiful and very tempting. Is it feasible to visit the city of Antequera and also get a short hike to see these rock formations.
Is this something you need to hike into or is there a scenic road from which to view this landscape.
Thanks
Is this something you need to hike into or is there a scenic road from which to view this landscape.
Thanks
Than you crellston for the great photos!
Aug 31st, 2023, 12:01 PM
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If you have the time, Malaga is a wonderful small city to visit that will give you some coastal ambience. The city center is pedestrianized with lovely architecture, shops, restaurants, etc. There is the Malaga Cathedral, Alcazaba, Castillo, Atarazanas Market, and lots of small art museums. There is a seaside promenade along the port where you can have drinks and watch the sunset. I think it's an under-rated city. We loved our stay here. BTW, when is your trip?
Sep 1st, 2023, 01:29 PM
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Jenny,
I agree with KarenWoo. Rather than go to Nerja for a glimpse of a Med coast town, just drive to the vibrant city of Malaga for that coastal view. Although it´s not a small pueblo blanco on the Med, it has soooooo much more to offer. However....., the trouble with stopping in Málaga is that you´ll want to savor this city with more time rather than see it on a short stop on the drive from Granada to Ronda. But it has a lovely palm tree lined promenade to walk along the harbor and even walk to the beach.
I agree with KarenWoo. Rather than go to Nerja for a glimpse of a Med coast town, just drive to the vibrant city of Malaga for that coastal view. Although it´s not a small pueblo blanco on the Med, it has soooooo much more to offer. However....., the trouble with stopping in Málaga is that you´ll want to savor this city with more time rather than see it on a short stop on the drive from Granada to Ronda. But it has a lovely palm tree lined promenade to walk along the harbor and even walk to the beach.
