tangwah

My husband and I are planning to leave for Lisbon next Thurday for seven days! Just decided today. Never been there, any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. We are independent travellers who love to wine and dine, hate touristy overcrowded places, budget for lodgings $100-150 a night, willing to rent a car if it's a good idea.

111op

I just spent two days there last week. Seven days seem a bit much for Lisbon, I think -- but I'm a hurried traveler.

You should have time for day trips (Sintra?), which I didn't have the time for.

I stayed in the VIP Eden on Restauradauros, which I enjoyed. I've also seen nice reviews for Borges -- a little more central.

There's a very interesting photo exhibiton called "Earth from Above" from Praca Comercio, one of the tourist attractions (a main square smack in downtown/historic Lisbon). Be sure to check it out.

I went for fado and dinner at Senhor Vinho, which was ok.

111op

Another warning -- whatever you do, do not buy port at the airport. Unless I misread the prices, the bottle of port I bought downtown is about 3x more expensive at the airport (granted, not a duty-free one).

tangwah

Thanks for the prompt replies. I won't spend much time in Lisbon I think, I gather from this forum Sintra is the place to go. I haven't had anytime to read up on Portugal. will do so tonight.

111op

Have a good time!

I didn't see all the standard attractions in Lisbon but saw quite a number. Put the San Jeronimo monastery high on your itinerary. This is a must for any visit. Vasco da Gama is purportedly buried in its chapel.

pg

We were in Lisbon in Nov 2001. We had stayed at Metropole, one of Fodorites' oft recommended hotel, which was nice. However, the instances of renting taxis were less than pleasant. In both the instances, we had our taxis arranged by the hotel. In the first, we rented a Mercedes for a day (then costing equivalent of $100.00 - Euro was still not around) for Lisbon site-seeing. Only after completing the trip (and paying a tip of $20), upon talking with the hotel receptionist did we realize that we were taken. Th driver was also supposed to be a guide (wherein our driver acted only as a driver unless asked some specific questions) - also the driver took us to fewer places than he generally takes the hotel guests to. I think we were generous customers by Portugal standards in our tipping as well as expectations from the driver - in fact he even gave us his personal card so that we can get a cheaper ride the next day than going thru his company. The only positive was that the hotel receptionist seemed genuinely hurt when she realized that we were taken by her countryman.
The other experience with Taxi was when the hotel arranges a regular cab to take us from the hotel to the airport for a 6:30am flight. Upon reaching the airport, the driver demanded more money than what the hotel had asked us to pay. I refused to pay him more and he refused to accept what the hotel had asked us to pay him (he had not turned on the meter). We asked him to get the airport police and if they agree, we will pay whatever he was asking us. (Of course, all of a sudden he lost all his English skills and behaved as if he didn't understand what we were saying). When we started to walk away without paying him, he took the money.
I also vaguely remember that the cab from the airport to hotel charged us more than normal, but that didn't hurt as much because he did provide us with extra service - carried our bags to our room.
Before someone goes on a tirade against me, let me also tell that I am not "American/ European" - and have been lucky vising many countries in Europe and the "third world". When one is travelling in Europe, one has different set of expectations than when one is travelling in Asia or Latin America (where bargaining/ re-checking things/ haggling is more common).
I would hate to generalize my experience with what is likely to happen, but I would advise you to be careful on the cab-front. There seems to be quite a bit in Lisbon of interest - especially Portugal's strong maritime history.

111op

I read pg's posting, and I wanted to say that I was very lucky in that all the cab drivers I ran into seemed honest.

From the airport to Lisbon proper, you can purchase a voucher from the tourist information desk, which is pre-paid. A worker from the desk walks you to a cab, and this avoids the possibility of a dishonest cab driver. I used it and it worked just fine. The cab ride to the hotel was a little over 14 Euros, I think.

On our return, we took a cab by hailing one off the street. It was cheaper. (The tourist information fully discloses the fact that the voucher can be more expensive -- you're really buying some sort of insurance.)

We also took the cab at least four cabs, and each cab ride was about five Euros (Estrela church to Museu de Arte Antiga, Praca Comercio to Azulejo museum, hotel to and from Senhor Vinho, in Lapa).

Perhaps there's been a crackdown. I was quite concerned about taking cabs, but it worked out just fine!

xxxx

If you don't like the idea of staying in the city for an entire week, you could stay in Sintra. The train from Sintra to Lisbon is extremely easy. Cascais is also another option frequently suggested by other posters. You could use a car to explore other areas of interst.

111op

By the way, you almost need to take cabs in Lisbon, as the Metro is not a very comprehensive system, and there could be long waits for buses and trams. One of the days we were there was also a National holiday, so there were no doubt fewer buses and trams. So we were more or less forced to use cabs despite my paranoia about them.

That said, Tram 28 that everyone seems to recommend seems to run very frequently.

epi

We were in Portugal several years ago and enjoyed it very much. Our best memory is of the Gulbenkian museum. For museum lovers, it is not to be missed!

111op

I agree re the Gulbenkian -- a very interesting, private collection. There're really no masterpieces to speak of (I find), but it's more interesting than the national museum (Arte Antiga), which has the Goncalves polyptych and a Bosch triptych.

suzy

We took a shuttle bus from the airport to our hotel in Lisbon. It was inexpensive and easy (go to the information desk at the airport - we got the shuttle right in front).

Be sure to go to Sintra to see Pena Palace. Also, the beautiful village of Obidos.

We had some problems with cabs in Lisbon. One driver acted as if he didn't know where the bus station was (from our hotel) - fortunately, we'd studied a map so told him he was going the wrong way.

tangwah

Wow, very grateful for all the helpful responses. Will report on my trip when I return.

Carolred

We rented a car at the Lisbon airport ($40cdn a day for a SEAT wagon in '02) and stayed in Cascais, at the Hotel Baia, with an ocean view. The town is quiet, with a 6am daily fish market, excellent restaurants (eat very fresh grilled fish and rotisseried chicken and try the Brasilian place!), and an Irish pub next door for night life.

We took the train to Lisbon one day and to Belem another, for roughly $1.30 CDN one-way, and it took 1/2 hour. Then we walked around the tourist sites. We drove to Sintra for a day. We also took a lovely drive up the Estoril coast to Cabo da Roca.

Note: if you want an espresso, as for "Um bica", and after dinner, order it with a Licor Beirao.

MonicaRichards

I liked Lisbon a lot, especially Sintra. You can read more on our trip report http://www.markandmonica.com/Travel/iberia.htm. Between Lisbon itself (beautiful with those tiled buildings), Sintra and Estoril you should have plenty to keep you busy.

tangwah

So far, I have a 7 day car rental on hold, pick up at Lisbon airport. Thinking of driving direct to Sintra, stay 2 nights at Palacio de Setais, after which I will roughly follow this itinerary: "the Alentejo region, where you'll visit the most interesting cities and villages of this zone: Évora (World Heritage City, classified by UNESCO), Estremoz (a medieval little town with its castle), Portalegre (on the way to Marvão but, deserving a passage to feel this old and genuine town) and finally, the memorable Marvão village. This small village stands at more than 800 meters high and it's surrounded by walls from the 13th to the 17th century. Our opinion is that Marvão is also very beautiful at night (for the tranquillity that it offers) and that's why we chose to overnight thereughly this itinerary. This will be the day dedicated to discover the deep countryside of Portugal. You'll visit the beauty of the ancient portuguese villages like Idanha-a-Velha and Monsanto (known as "the most portuguese village of Portugal&quot. But before entering this other region of Portugal (called "Beira Interior&quot you'll leave Alentejo, visiting "Castelo de Vide", another medieval and beautiful town, also known as the "Sintra" of Alentejo. After Coimbra, we'll go to Fatima, the religious capital of Portugal and then, a visit to Batalha and Alcobaça Monastery, masterpieces of the portuguese architecture (the first one is known as the best example of the "Manuelino" art style - a portuguese style inspired in the late gothic, from the end of the 15th century). Finally, Óbidos, an enchanted little place in Portugal. Another medieval village, but so different from everything you've already visited on this tour".

Any feedback? My husband's not a big city guy, so I will visit Lisbon alone when he leaves at the end of the week. I have 4 more vacation days.

xxxx

You are going to ALL of those towns in the 5 remaining days after Sintra??

tangwah

I am trying to find out more about distances between towns etc. I truly have no clue about Portugal. Don't have a guide book yet. Have decided to fly into Oporto and out of Lisbon, that will save us some driving time I think.

picky

Returned on Tues. 10/12 from week in Lisbon. We too stayed @ VIP Eden probably same time another writer was there. Good place, well situated, rooms nice, roof top breakfast area overlooking much of City very nice in morning.Must go to Sintra, easy train ride but lots of walking there. Also easy train ride to Estoril & Caiscas. Maybe one week too long but 4-5 days to really see it all.

111op

Hey, we probably ran into you in the VIP Eden!