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Old Feb 23rd, 2008, 12:27 AM
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Help Croatia Itinerary Experts Needed!

Hello!
My boyfriend and I are planning a trip to Croatia in May -probably the middle. We've tried to do this a couple of times and it hasn't work out ... I think this year will be the year..but we're swamped with stuff right now and won't have a lot of time to plan...so what I need help with is advice on whether or not we've made the best use of our two weeks...and what is the best way to travel..I don't want to waste 8 hours on a bus...

Landing in Zagrab (2 nights)
fly to (we've heard Istra is beautiful..but that you can only fly into Pula...so)
Pula and then take a bus to Rovinj (2)
bus back to Pula
Fly to Split (3)
- day trips to Trogir and Brac
-How far away is Mostar? by bus?
Ferry to Hvar or Korcula which would be better for some beach time (3)
Ferry to Dubrovnik (4)
-day trips to Montenegro
-anywhere else?

I guess we really need to make efficient use of our time...does anybody know of a good bus website? that's in english that we can easily find how long it takes to get between destinations? so if it's too long maybe we'll fly instead? I hear Croatian Air has some good deals...and you save a ton of travel time.

Thanks!



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Old Feb 23rd, 2008, 07:19 AM
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First you should check the Croatian Airlines prices to see if that option is available to you.
I have not been to Istria, but it certainly gets raves here. That sid, I think it would be a shame to not visit Plitvice Lakes national park, which is in between Zagreb and Split, right on the bus line, and deserves at least one overnight (and preferably two imho).
Here is the bus station site for Zagreb: http://www.akz.hr/EN/voznired.aspx

From Rovinj, you could also bus to Rijeka and overnight ferry to Split.
Check ferry scheds at jadrolinija website.
The only caveat about flying is having a locked-down schedule so you have less flexibility.

Brac is doable as a long day trip: If the catamaran to Bol is not running that day (which I presume is where you want to go), take a ferry to Supetar and bus to Bol and vice versa. Or, I advise renting a scooter for a wild ride around Brac. I have heard great things about Milna on Brac but missed it when I was there.

I am not sure if you could get to Mostar and back in a day from Split--I think more people go from Dbv, but again I do not think you can return on a the bus the same day.
Split bus station:
http://www.ak-split.hr/EN/index.html

Dbv bus station:
http://www.libertasdubrovnik.com/voznired.swf

Note for Kotor you also cannot go and return in one day via bus. You can rent a car or pay for a driver.
There are day trips to small islands from Dubrovnik's old harbor.

I have traveled in Dalmatia with public transportation 3 times, so feel free to ask more.

Korcula vs. Hvar: it's a toss-up, both are fantastic. You want to to break up the ferry ride as much as possible (It's gorgeous but loong).
I can tell you more about beaches if you want later but I've written a book so will stop now.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2008, 12:21 PM
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Thanks for the book Yorkshire..and keep it coming!
I'll be a little slow on responding ...as we're also in the throws of moving and renovating right now...but I'll look over the websites you sent over the next couple of days and see what I can figure out - then post more questions. The bus and train websites that I had been looking at weren't in English so determining how long trips took or picking the right departure & destination proved difficult. I just want to make the most out of our time...and getting from Zagreb to Istra looks like a long haul without a flight and from there to Split also looks like a long haul and maybe a flight is needed - but after that bus/train would probably be fine. I'll work on it and get back to you! Thanks so much and if you have any other tips please feel free to post.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2008, 01:00 PM
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Croatia is my favourite country (well, tied with Scotland) on the planet.

While Zagreb is nice there are much prettier places to see so I personally would only spend one night there. I just think that night could be better spent elsewhere (i.e. Istria). Of course that is just my opinion!

We always fly to Zagreb, rent a car and drive to Istria - Istria's my favourite region. Croatia is so easy to drive in and navigate and a car would be necessary to see some of the best scenery and villages. The drive from Zagreb affords lovely scenery and is a glorious drive - easily do-able in under one day. Rovinj is lovely but the hilltowns in the interior are fabulous and not commercial or touristy. I highly, highly recommend Istria. I've mentioned it a thousand times so it may sound trite but we love it so much we are looking at properties.

Perhaps you could grab a car in Zagreb, do Istria, drive to Pula (worth about half a day to see the amphitheatre), Plitvice Lakes NP (just stunning), Zadar, Trogir (a much prettier place to base than Split - many people find a few hours or a day enough in Split) and Dubrovnik. However, Split does have ferry access.

It is easily do-able in two weeks. Of course there are several lovely islands (my favourites are Mljet, Cres and Rab). Hvar and Korcula are wonderful as well.

We drop the car off in Dubrovnik (no need for one there - it would be a major headache) and fly from Dubrovnik to Zagreb (really cheap - about 50 euros or less per person).

It all depends on your interests - we go for culture, history, scenery, food, architecture, sea and tranquility. And white truffles!
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Old Feb 23rd, 2008, 02:40 PM
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I'll just comment on the beaches and then wait till you post again.
Mid-May might be cold for swimming. It just depends on your tolerance--the temp can be quite hot and the sea quite cold. I have always visited in mid-late May and have swam each time though. My favorite thing is to hike around and find a secluded spot and just chill--regardless of whether I get in the water or not. (The first 2 May trips we had absolutely perfect weather, last May it stormed a lot)
It will be warmer the farther south you go.
From Hvar, the Pakleni islands (just offshore) are easily reached on daily boats. Then you just walk till you get your own cove. More adventurous folks can rent a small boat. If you walk along the shore east from Hvar, you pass a couple of nice (though nudist) beaches. Hvar is just pleasantly lively in May--none of that jet set stuff you hear bandied about.
From Korcula, it is best to take a bus to get to beaches (there are offshore islands there too, but I have never been to them). {Or, rent a car or scooter (kinds scary).} Here is a good site about Korcula (one of my favorite places):
www.korculainfo.com/beaches_korcula.htm
I liked Pupnatska Luka a lot. Lumbarda's beach isn't really all that, but the vineyards/churches are pretty.
Also check out www.croatia-beaches.com. (include the hyphen)

Of course I've written another book--I love Croatia too obviously, but hopefully the resources will help you put together the perfect first Croatia trip (because you'll be back)!

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Old Feb 23rd, 2008, 03:52 PM
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ohhh quick question on the beach issue...since we want to have a few days just to do nothing but relax eat, drink and sit...does Hvar have "walk out your front door" nice sandy beaches? Rather than Korcula's take a bus to the nice sandy beach? Don't get me wrong we'll still go visit Korcula...but since that will be our relax time we want the nice beach close by to really become sloth-like for a day or two!!
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Old Feb 23rd, 2008, 04:36 PM
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Sandy beaches are very rare.
The best are those with small smooth white pebbles. So-called "shingle" beaches are hard rock, often with ladders built in for sea access.
The rocks are what make the sea so clear though.
I think for convenience to beaches, Hvar would be better than Korcula, mostly because of Pekleni islands, but for those in vicinity too.
There may be some beaches close to Hvar town that I didn't pay much attention to, because I don't like to swim near where many boats are (ferries especially--what they dump into water is unspeakable) and am go-go-go--always looking for seclusion. There is a hotel with a small beach in front of it in Hvar I believe. If just looking to sit, would be okay. Many young people just sit on the concrete piers along Hvar bay--near some ancient salt pans. If you don't mind going nude, the beaches west of Hvar were gorgeous and not a long walk--can even bicycle part of the way. (Is not considered polite to not be nude at nude beach).

The mainland has very nice stretches of beach, especially south of Split. (On islands is more indented coast)
Study the Croatia-beaches website and you will get a good idea.
Everywhere is great for just relaxing. Dubrovnik is good for those kind of beaches too.
Oh, also, across short stretch from Korcula (via frequent ferries) is Orebic--nice long beach there, but again move as far from ferry port as possible.
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Old Feb 28th, 2008, 09:53 AM
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Okay...so with the very limited time I've had to do some more research (renos are so crazy! - I hate not have a lot of time to plan a trip!!)
I've got a question or two...I've been checking out Croatia Air...the flights are fairly reasonable...so what I’m thinking is maybe arriving in

Zagreb and flying right away to Pula ...And then taking a bus right away to Rovinj for 2 nights...to travel around Istra exploring that area.

Question: are there buses that leave from the airport in Pula to Rovinj? And how long is the bus ride?
Is all of that on our first travel day too much to expect...should we just spend one night in Zagreb ?

When done in Istra - bus back to Pula - Fly to Zadar (35 minute flight) (2 nights)
Anyone know how long the bus would be - should we consider that as an option? Or is it too long and flying is better. We're good with 3/4 hours on a bus - not 8.

Fly/bus to Split (2 nights) -
-- exploring Trojir -- maybe take a land tour to Mostar - anyone know of a good one?

Ferry from Split - Hvar (2 nights)
-- little island relaxation and exploring surrounding island.

Ferry from Hvar - Mljet (1) (I think I've heard this place is nice...feedback??? Better here or a night or two on Korcula?)

Ferry from Mljet to Dubrovnik (4)
-- How close is Cavtat? Worth seeing?
-- Bay of Kotar in Montenegro ? How far away? Take a bus on own as a day trip? Or land tour better?

Fly home from Dubrovink.....

Thoughts, suggestions!
Thanks
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Old Feb 28th, 2008, 10:24 AM
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On leaving Zagreb immediately: you have to decide that. Are you the types to get cranky after travel, etc.? Don't let all the disses of Zagreb get to you either--it is a fun city with a few nice sights so not terrible for one night.

Upon flying to Pula you will have to bus (or taxi) to the bus station and bus to Rovinj from there. It's not long. You might want to store your luggage at the bus station and go see the Coliseum before leaving Pula.
Just plan on relaxing those two days--Rovinj is a wonderful town from what I hear (haven't been to Istria). Here is a Rovinj website for bus schdules:
www.tzgrovinj.hr/eng/info/
autobusi.asp

I would skip Zadar, adding one more night in Istria and then flying to Split, adding a night there too (or Trogir). Believe me, it is better to have 3 nights in one place, especially with the travel you're doing. Doing a tour of Mostar (just shop around for the tourist office offering one) will eat an entire day, so you'll need the extra day there. (More people visit Mostar from Dbv.)

There is no ferry from Hvar to Mljet. You can possibly do a day trip to Mljet from Dubrovnik, but the ferry schedules in May are more conducive to overnight. I would stay longer in Hvar instead or overnight in Korcula, breaking up that ferry ride.

Again, Note for Kotor (3 hours away) you cannot go and return in one day via bus. You can rent a car or pay for a tour/driver.

I feel like your travel agent, haha, so I hope you get more input. Public transportation in Croatia is good, but you have to know the limitations in May. Good luck with all you have going on--Croatia will be a nice reward.

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Old Feb 28th, 2008, 10:28 AM
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Re Mostar, I loved it and would recommend a visit. Here's my report...

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35086450
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Old Feb 28th, 2008, 10:33 AM
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Thanks both for the info...I'll go through it again over the next few days...

If you've got the info Yorkshire... I love hearing it! There's nothing like sharing travel experiences that you've loved - helping other people plan trips of a life time....I know I've doled out a lot of info on Italy in the past! This is such an awesome place/website to do it.
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Old Feb 28th, 2008, 10:41 AM
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P.S. and yes I'm thinking you're right after a long day of travel (from Vancouver, Canada to Zagreb)I think maybe one night there is a good idea...then fly to Pula check the luggage..poke around..then bus/taxi to Rovinj 3 nights to explore Istra..then off to Split...maybe doing Zadar is just asking too much at this point..

Also not sure how advisable it is to be going to Montengro right now given the whole Serbia Kosovo issue right now... but we'll figure that out in the days to come...I'm sure it's fine.
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Old Feb 28th, 2008, 11:02 AM
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I wouldn't worry about that, 8. The Montenegrin people are just happy to be getting their slice of the tourism pie now, and those troubles are far away.
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Old Mar 18th, 2008, 10:58 AM
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Okay so it's been awhile since I've written. Much has happened..we're in reno hell...and due to job/time conflicts I think we're going to postpone the trip until Sept.

Soooooo......
We're going to be going the first two weeks. Is that still a nice time?
Are things more expensive? Is it still high season? Too crowded?
Should we book our places to stay in advance? Or is it slowing down enough in September to only say book Dubrov. and then play the rest by ear.

After this I will repost in a month or so when life settles down ...and I have some serious time to plan.



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Old Mar 19th, 2008, 06:47 AM
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Early September is an excellent time--the sea will be warm!
I think it should be similar to the May shoulder season in terms of prices, crowds. High season may spill over a little, but I wouldn't worry too much about it.
If you want to play it by ear, I think that would be safe, just book your first place.
good luck
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