Hello Fodorites,

Wanted to drop another hello from the road.

I am in Molyvos for the last night - Sigh! I have loved my stay in Lesvos, just fantastic. Lots to see and do, wonderful secluded beaches to be found - my favorite place in Greece so far. I stayed 5 nights in Molyvos and 2 in Mytiline Town, which was just right. I highly recommend Molyvos as a base - stunning town with lots of resonably priced car, scooter and bicycle rental places. I even managed to rent an automatic car for 35Euros one day! My hotels a little pricey for me (tight budget) but it is right at the waterfront - can't beat the view. Sea Horse Hotel, its off season so I am paying 42Euro/night, if anyone is looking around.

Off to Chios tomorrow! Am really looking forward to this island, though am having trouble securing an automatic car rental. I budgeted for a standard, but just don't want to learn to drive while dealing with crazy narrow streets etc!.

If anyone has any questions - I'll do my best to answer. In Greece, I'll been to the following destinations thus far:

Santorini
Athens
Monemvasia
Gythio
Aeropolis/Dirous Caves
Sparta/Mystras/Langada Pass
Koroni
Pylos/Methoni/Giolova
Nafpaktos
Delphi
and of course, glorious Lesvos!

Hope you are all well!

Cheers,

Murph

OOO, write a report, I have Greece in my future plans! have fun!

Good to hear from you again. I am getting great ideas for my Greece 2007 trip; Lesvos was on an early "list" but we seem to have dropped it. Tell us more!

Enjoy the rest of your trip.

I almost dropped it too annabelle - so happy I didn't. Mytiline is a bustling modern town with an attractive waterfront and lots of amentities - I even saw an English movie and after two months of travel that was a treat! There is a fortress in Mytiline and some very attractive churches. Great shopping in the winding, narrow back streets - the best place for little shops etc I've seen in Greece so far. I am staying at an overpriced, uninspiring hotel called Hotel Lesvion - expensive for Greece in May (42/night) but the location is nice, right on the harbour. I would allow one full day to explore, then would move on.

Molyvos is stunning in my opinion. It is a town that draps down a steep hill crowned with well preserved fortress. Lots of stone houses, red roofs, a great view of the sea, sunsets and quite a nice beach in town. Though my guidebook says its a narrow pebble beach, there is also a nice sand stretch if you follow the coast. Try "Gatos" restaurant on the shopping street about 3 streets inland for a great meal and perfect view at great prices.

What is also nice about Molyvos is that the town of Petra is 6kms south - you could walk, or bike like I did (be prepared for hills). Even better, is that Eftoulu is 5 kms northeast - you can also walk or bike (hills people, hills). There is a wonderful pebble beach there that has many coves etc all along the coast. Parents be forewarned: some nude bathers at far end and the water is deep (which I like for myself). I am still sporting a sunburn from my entire day lazing around on the warm smooth stones - just lovely. From Molyvos you can do boat excursions to nearby towns or even to Turkey. I rented a car one day and toured along the coast to Sigri, the petrified forest and any number of mountain towns - the stretch on the way to Mandamous was especially nice. Also, I wish I'd had time to stop in Vatousa for a better look around - it a town on the Kalloni-Sigri route.

I could easily have stayed another week - I didn't get to the south and I had really wanted to see Agiasos and Polmari, which I've heard are very nice. I just couldn't tear myself away from Molyvos, so next time.

Around Molyvos, Lesvos is quite green. By Sigri the island is quite craggy and offers a more barren terrain.

I didn't find Kalloni particularly interesting, but there is a beach just south that would be good for kids - very shallow. I hate that personally, I like to be able to swim around near shore, but if I were supervising children I would feel differently I am sure.

So much I didn't see, but I have an itinereary to continue on with and I am looking forward to Chios.

Hope that gives you some ideas!

I will post a full trip report, but it is nice to catch me when details are fresh in my memory.

Cheers,

Murphy

Another note: Consider carefully the days and time you choose to spend in large towns - consider if you can do day-trips, go to the beach etc. It is important because everything closes from about 1:00-5:00 (12:00-4:30 some places). For example, today I am in Mytiline Town, I thought I'd have enough to occupy my time, but I am really bored today. No parks, not really a beach town etc - so how does one without wheels occupy their time?
Just a thought - I would stick to the outlying areas as much as possible. I always notice and regret the Greeks extra long siesta when I am in large town and often don't even notice when there are lots of outdoor activities to occupy my time elsewhere. The bus service on Lesvos is awful, especially since it is off season. Makes day-tripping really difficult. So being somewhere close to other towns or having your own wheels is a must.

Just my personal opinion,

Murphy

Thanks for taking so much time to give details. I am going to print out your reports and stick them in my Greek file. Great details and tips (esp. about transportation) about Lesvos, sounds extremely nice and the kind of place I would like. I am imagining those smooth sun-warmed stones right now. Heaven!

Enjoy the rest of your trip.

What about the birds? You're on one of the best flyways in the world at one of the best times???