hopingtotravel

I'm still hoping for a trip to Scotland either late May or early June 2011. We spent 5 days there in 1998, but left a lot unseen.

I'm looking at flying in to Glasgow, driving to Skye, taking the ferry to Harris, driving to Stornoway (seeing the stones of course), then ferry to Ullapool. We would work our way back to the ferry at Lochline to Mull, then to Oban, drive south to (Kinnicraig?) ferry to Islay and back. I would probably need a Rover ticket.

Some questions here and there:

1--Do most b&bs and old stone boutique hotels now come with showers? That was one of the things I most disliked in 1998--the bathtubs with the handheld.

2--When is the late May bank holiday weekend? Or is it different every year?
The reason I'm wondering: I was afraid the rhododendrons in the gardens might be all done by June. Plus it doesn't sound like June last year was appreciably sunnier!

3-- Does the highway only run along one side of Loch Lomond? I did find some pages torn out from our old Ordnance Survey map, but can't seem to tell.

4-- Escaping the 3 hour dinner. I realize in some cases if we're staying at a boutique hotel way out in the country there's nowhere else to eat without driving. However, I just hate it when you waste all the beautiful sunset and scenery in eating PLUS the way it often ends up being as much or more than the price of your room.

Guess when I figure out where we're staying will have to ask that one on an individual basis.

sheila

(Kinnicraig?)= Kennacraig

1.showers? No idea

2. When is the late May bank holiday weekend? There isn't one is Scotland. It's an English thing

3. Does the highway only run along one side of Loch Lomond? Yes. You can walk the other side, tho'

4. the 3 hour dinner. What was the question?

hopingtotravel

Thanks Sheila. So it must have been reading about the West Highland Way that made me think their was a highway both sides.

I guess as I pick my individual hotels and b&bs I'll try to find out if they are located nearby pubs or restaurants. I guess what I'm saying is that I would rather go out, walk around, enjoy the grounds or sunset, than spend 3 hours every night having the fine (and expensive) dining experience. And, yes I know, that's usually only at boutique hotels 20 miles out in the middle of nowhere.

Next question: does 90 minutes sound about right for driving Tarbert on Harris to Stornoway on Lewis? ViaMichelin says 50 minutes and the drawing looks like constant curves. I almost decided to leave the island out after reading Green Dragon's report. However, I think she was taking a side trip around the tip of Harris.

sheila

There are places that you can get to the shore, but you can't go the length of the loch in a car on the north east side.

Yes, we can help on places, once you make up your mind. There are some places where you will be stuck; but most will have a bar menu where you can eat less formally and, indeed, more quickly.

Not been to Lewis and Harris. 90 minutes sounds generous and viamichelin, if you're not stopping.

GeoffHamer

The Spring Bank Holiday is always on the last Monday of May, which may not be the last weekend: in 2009, the Bank Holiday was on 25 May. It is not a Bank Holiday in Scotland, but there are likely to be more English visitors in Scotland at that time. That week is normally a school holiday in England, so many families will be travelling then.

GoAway

Ninety minutes from Tarbert to Stornoway sounds about right. There are a few places that you'll want to stop just to see the scenery. The road isn't too bad to drive.

However, if you can, you really need to spend some time on Harris - it is completely different from Lewis. When we were there last Spring, we took the ferry from Uig, Skye, then drove down to Rodel and back before staying at a B&B on Scalpay. The next day we traveled on to Lewis. Unlike Green Dragon, though, we didn't take the Golden Road the whole way back. We did drive a little bit of it - it was beautiful, but I felt like my driver DH was getting a little bit tired, and it is a challenging drive.

We did something similar to your trip: Glasgow to Oban (day trip to Mull and Iona) to Skye via Mallaig to Harris via Uig to Lewis (We stayed at Galson Farms - I know what you mean about the 3 hour dinner by the time you find somewhere to dine) - then to Ullapool and back to Glasgow.

In all of the B&Bs we stayed in on that trip we never had a handheld shower in a tub.

hopingtotravel

Thanks all. Some good info here. DH loves beaches so depending on ferry schedules and times, we may make some detour forages on Harris. The pictures I've seen are beautiful.

In cleaning my file boxes I'm finding Scotland brochures, and driving tour books dating back ten years. I must have been unconsciously planning this trip for a long time.

hopingtotravel

GoAway, did you feel Ullapool warrants an overnight? Could one walk around awhile after taking the ferry from Stornaway, then go on to the garden at Inverewe?

Since it's tiring to drive a trip composed of one night stays, I'm trying to interject some 2-nights, while keeping the length down a bit.

I'm considering a 2-night in Tobermary on Mull. Bad idea; good idea? The pictures look intriguing.

sheila

Ullapool is pleasant enough, and should not be avoided for an overnight stay, but you can easily walk round it in 20 minutes.

2 nights in Tobermory is a good idea.

GoAway

We stayed at a very charming B&B http://www.braemoresquare.com/index.htm just outside of Ullapool - we took the afternoon ferry from Stornoway and our intention was to visit Inverewe Gardens the following day. It was unfortunately the wettest day we had in the entire two-week trip, and we decided that getting soaked wouldn't have been pleasant, so we ate lunch at the gift shop and turned back. The drive from the B&B to the gardens was beautiful even in the drizzle - don't miss Corrieshalloch Gorge.

I also have to say that the worst meal of the trip was at Ullapool - we should have listened to our hosts' recommendations rather than simply picking the place that looked like it had a nice view.

hopingtotravel

If you crossed the Gorge, I assume that means you took the highway through Strathpeffer (sp) toward Inverness. ??

I've been looking at the map and wondering about the road through Torridon which seems to wind along the inlets and leads back to Kyle of Lochlash.

Still haven't received my brochure/schedule from CalMac. The 'afternoon' ferry from Stornoway is the earliest of the day though, right? So one shouldn't plan to take the ferry, see Ullapool, then go to the gardens all in one day--too much I guess. I'm looking up the b&b now. Thank you.

tod

Hopingtotravel, when I saw you had the Isle of Mull on your list I thought you may like to browse through the SCOTLAND part of my trip report. We loved MULL and you will se why from the photos!
http://tinyurl.com/cwarzw

GreenDragon

Yes, the Golden Road was south of the ferry location, and isn't needed to get to Stornoway It is a beautiful drive, but not for the faint of heart!

90 minutes is about right. You would be fine with that estimate.

hopingtotravel

Thanks Tod; loved the photos. I think I recall your trip report at the time. I've been reading here for years!

GoAway

Corrieshalloch Gorge was very close to the B&B - a few miles (at most) heading towards Inverness on the A835, then a hard right turn onto the A832, which takes you to Inverewe Gardens.

As for the ferry, I think we had our choice of a very early ~ 6 am, or afternoon sailing. Since we were staying quite a ways from Stornoway, the morning sailing wasn't considered an option.... ViaMichelin gives a time of 1:18 from Ullapool to Poolewe - so you might have time to do spend an afternoon there if you took the early ferry, and didn't spend much time in Ullapool.

hopingtotravel

Hmmmmm, have been considering a b&b not far from the Stones on Lewis, so can't picture DH catching a 6 a.m. ferry.

After you left Inverewe Gardens did you continue on towards Torridon, or go back and head toward Inverness?

Am just trying to get an idea what the road is like. Apparently the road near Torridon is very high. Some sources don't mention it all, but a couple of books actually list tours that go through there. Something I read said 1 hr 39 minutes from Ullapool to Torridon (plus of course, time spent touring the garden).

GreenDragon

It's a drive we wanted to try, but it just didn't work logistically for us. I think it's supposed to be the highest road in Britain, or something like that.

hopingtotravel

I'm hoping someone on here has been over the road. If it's all winding singletrack along cliffs, I may have to go back to the drawing board.

sheila

I've done that road a number of times. It's lovely. You wouldn't want to do it if your were in a hurry

GoAway

After we left Inverewe Garden, we backtracked to the B&B over the same route. The A832 wasn't a difficult drive and had some beautiful views over Little Loch Broom and Gruinard Bay.