Finally, the boys are off to camp, and I have time to do this. First, thanks to St Cirq and others who helped me with travel planning, especially getting train tickets on-line. Everything went off without any problem.
We left for CDG May 24--Delta business class for me and hubby, coach for the boys. Delta business class is fine--American is probably slightly better overall--but Delta's wine list is better and they have a great business class lounge in Atlanta. We arrived at CDG right on time. It was cold and rainy, and I was worried that our bike trip would be miserable. I shouldn't have wasted the effort. While at the airport, before we could go through customs, we saw the French police arrest a guy (?drug smuggler or terrorist?) from our plane--they handcuffed his legs and hands and carried him out face down after a scuffle. It was pretty intense for a few minutes.
We caught the TGV to Tours at CDG, Had a nice nap on the train. At Tours, we picked up our rental car from Avis (yes, they are open on Sunday) and drove to Azay-le-Rideau. The weather had by now cleared and warmed up. Stayed at Hotel Val de Loire--same rooms as 2 years ago--very nice and helpful management and plentiful buffet breakfast. Visited the chateau and it is beautiful as ever.
The next morning we visited Villandry--just the gardens this time as the chateau is not that great, there are many more interesting. Then we drove to Blois. The chateau there is very interesting as it has many different architectural styles and periods represented.
We stayed at Hotel Anne de Bretagne. It is very near the chateau and the lady who manages it is very helpful. Rooms are tiny but clean and pleasant. We ate dinner at Le Medicis--food was good but attitude of the staff is terrible--it seemed a burden to wait on us. I would not eat there again for that reason.
The next morning, we started our bike tour which we booked through Discover France. I would highly recommend this company--very helpful in every way.

We biked to Chamont-sur-Loire, only to be told that the chateau was closed because of the strike--first we had heard of it, but not the last. That was disappointing, but we biked on to Amboise. The chateau was open, and we visited--I think this chateau is more impressive from the outside actually. This inside is ok, but the outside is WOW!
We spent the night at Le Blason, very basic and small but clean rooms. Unfortunately, the restaurant was closed that night--it's supposed to be very good. We ate elsewhere-unremarkable. The next day, we went to CLos Luce, Di Vinci's home, which was expensive but great, well worth it, then on the Chenonceaux.
Chenonceaux has to be my favorite chateau of them all--it is beautiful both inside and out. If you visit one chateau, this should be it. Plus the history is very romantic. We stayed at Bon Labourer, probably my favorite hotel this trip. The boys had a very cool room, with the bathroom being a turret, and ours was very nice and comfortable as well. They have a nice swimming pool. Restaurant is great, though they did serve this weird foie gras ice cream--I try to think of it as a cultural experience.
The next day we biked back to Blois. Only got lost three times the entire trip--once was our fault for not paying attention to instructions, another was when my husband tried to make a short cut. On the way back to Blois, we ate wonderful pizza for lunch at a campground by a river. You would have to have been there, but it was one of those times that is simply magical. We rode our bikes to the campground. There were 2 guys, who definitely enjoyed their wine, there. They had a little pizza stand--we ordered pizza, and the one who spoke English told us to go about 1/4 mile down the road to a picnic table by the river and he would deliver the pizza. We figured, ok, what do we have to lose? (My husband hadn't paid yet). We rode on and sure enough, there was a old picnic table in a beautiful setting by the river. About 20 minutes later, here comes the guy in an ancient Peugeot, with his dog following, delivering our pizza, which was outstanding (along with a Heineken for my husband and Cokes for the boys and me). He said he hoped that everyone in France was nice to us, because he loved America and Americans--It was just very sweet.

What a great report, Rachel. I will be looking forward to reading more...we will be in the Loire in less than 3 weeks.

We biked on to Blois. What a great day!
That night we ate at L'Orangerie, which was absolutely wonderful, probably our best meal in France this trip. The next morning, we caught the train to Paris.
We checked into Le Meridien Montparnessee which was very nice. Yes, it is a big business hotel. But, they let 4 people, 2 adults and 2 kids, stay in a room. The rooms are big (comparable to a Hyatt or Hilton in the US) and the bathroom is what my husband calls "normal"--good shower, plenty of room, more than 1 person can go in the bathroom at a time. And I got a great rate over the internet. The location is convenient, even though there are plenty of bums and street people around, there is also good shopping and there are plenty of nice restaurants.
It had been warm while bicycling--I have a nice farmer's tan on my arms--but in Paris, I was very hot. Thank heavens, our hotel had good airconditioning.
We visited Marmotten Museum-lots of Renoirs-but no air conditioning--and the Eiffel Tower on the first day. The reason is that these two are not covered on the Museum Pass that you can buy at the metro stations. It is good for a specified number of days (3 in our case) and you want to make the most of it. It is worth buying just to not have to wait in line!! It is not activated till the first time you use it, so you can buy it at any time.
The next day, we went to Musee d'Orsay (no line with the pass). We spent most of the day there and had lunch in the fancy restaurant--actually fairly reasonable considering the location and ambiance. Then we walked to St. Chapelle and Notre Dame. We climbed to the top of Notre Dame--wonderful view, but you need to be in good shape. All was covered by the pass.

Rachel, probably 15 years ago we stayed at the Anne de Bretagne and really liked it, too. The proximity to the chateau was a plus. I love that chateau and the helix (double helix?) stairway and would like to go again!

Sofitel used to have summer specials and we have stayed there because of the amenities and the fabulous buffet breakfast (included). I believe we paid $109 for the one in Versailles and $125 for Forum left-bank. Probably more now. There's a lot to be said for space and air conditioning. (not to mention wine for breakfast!)

Sunday we went to Versailles--the chateau and grounds take an entire day. The RER takes you there with no trouble at all. Just be ready to walk. It is beautiful, esp. on SUnday when they turn on the fountains. You can almost pretend you are Marie Antoinette (before she got her head chopped off). Saw lots of French people out enjoying the day--hot and sunny. We even saw one guy walking his cat on a leash. My youngest son and I had fun considering what our cat would do on a leash--it wouldn't be walking!
Lunch at La Flotille at Versailles is kind of a tradition for us, and of course, we had to do it again--wonderful.
The next day, we went to the Lourve. We had saved this for the last as it is our favorite. Imagine our distress when we wait in line only to be told the museum is closed because of the strike.
My husband, never one to take things lying down, went up to the front and demanded to speak to someone in charge. A bunch of strikers had gathered and kept saying the museum was closed because of the strike, but my husband kept saying "I want to speak to the manager". All the tourists waiting in line had pretty much left except for about 100 mostly Americans at this point. My husband broke through the picket line and determined that it was just that, a picket line. The Lourve was not actually closed. The entrance was just being blocked. He shouted out to us that this was what was happening, and all the Americans just pushed through, the picket line dissolved, and we were in--first time I have been able to see Winged Victory and the Mona Lisa without 100 other people around me. Later in the day, the museum did get crowded, but for the first hour, it was great.
The next day, we flew home. Went to the airport at 6 am by reserved taxi due to the strike. We found out our plane was cancelled but were able to rebook on another Delta flight without any problem--just had to spend 6 hours at the airport. Overall, a very interesting trip. My youngest son loved the bicycling--though I thought it was a little dangerous at times. And we bought 2 very beautiful paintings which we have had shipped home. Also drank some great wine--Saumer Champagney (sp?)is my new favorte, but unfortunately, it is not readily available in the US.

LVSue, we saw the Sofitel in Versailles as we were walking to the chateau. It looked very nice and the location is great. I would even consider staying here and making day trips into Paris.

Welcome back, Rachel. Nice to hear that your trip went well. I just have one question: was the proprietress of the Anne de Bretagne a rather plump, busy, frowy woman with severely dyed hair and lots of makeup? When we were there about 4 years ago we noticed a remarkable number of different men going in and out of her private quarters at odd times of day and night and wondered if maybe there wasn't a second hospitality business being run out of the hotel. She was very nice to us, and the room was fine, but even the kids thought there was something funny going on in that hotel.

Rachel, thanx for sharing your experiences. Helpful to hear about which chateaux are most worthwhile. How old are your boys?

Oh,dear, St Cirq! No, the manager was a thin 40ish woman, very elegantly dressed, with excellent English.
My boys would have absolutely died laughing at what you decribe.

Elisabet, the boys are 12 and 17. This was their 2nd trip to the Loire Valley. My oldest son and I are the only ones in the family with any knowledge at all of the French language, so it is interesting. When we got lost, we sent my oldest son to seek out directions. We figured that, even if the French women couldn't understand his French, they would be won over by his boyish charm. And it worked!! He even resorted to speaking Spanish to one lady, and she came out of her house to the road to help us figure out the way.

Glad to hear it, Rachel. My kids were definitely amused. By the way, that was meant to read "busty, frowsy," not "busy, frowy."

Great report. Just curious, isn't the double helix stairway the one at Chambord? -- the one where those going up and those going down don't meet? Or did you mean the fancy outside staircase at Blois? LVSue? There's always the chance that I don't know what a double helix is. Which is one of the reasons why travel is so educational (also this forum). Now if I could just remember everything I learn. J.

jmw, you are right, of course. (Pope knew what he was talking about when he said, "A little learning is a dangerous thing.&quot My mind is a hodge-podge of disconnected information! Actually I was thinking of the outside spiral staircase at Blois, though the double helix at Chambord (inside) is a beautiful thing.